Archives for August 2022

Manaslu – Ski Descent of an 8000m Peak

August 30, 2022 by Anthony Marra

Manaslu – ski descent: A story of a ski descent at 8,000m, without oxygen nor sherpa support

Manaslu Ski Descent – The Journey

After a few months of procrastinating and getting my life back together, I’ve finally come around to writing a brief trip report of my climb and ski descent of Manaslu, an 8200m peak in the Himalayas. I completed this journey without a sherpa, sans oxygen and alone (sort of?). The approach was from Uzbekistan to Pakistan, carrying all my equipment on my bicycle. That story is for another time 🙂 however, this was my bicycle setup through the Karakoram and the gear I ultimately used on Manaslu.

The bike felt heavy, but I was as MINIMAL as possible. For example, I decided I would have to get by with only a +20F bag on an 8000m peak if I wanted to pull this off. This meant a tricky strategy and a push from Camp 2 at 6400m to the summit at nearly 8200m. On top of that, I was carrying the bare necessities. After several months of bicycle speed, testing my setup on 7000m+ peaks, various hardships & mishaps (there was some joy!) I gave up the bicycle near Gilgit, Pakistan and booked a flight to Nepal from Islamabad with my limited gear, forcing me to climb in a very minimalist fashion. Before this climb, I found little information online, so I hope this trip report can be beneficial for others, whether you are climbing with or without support.

What you need to do to climb Manaslu

I started in Kathmandu, contracting with a company named ‘Satori’. This is a basecamp+ service company, assisting climbers with logistics and any other support they need. Unfortunately, the Nepalese government will generally not allow you to climb completely independent for an entire climb, forcing climbers to hire ‘base camp services’. While I’m sure it benefits the local economy, these services are quite cushy and overpriced. They include an army of porters to basecamp, basecamp cooks, basecamp tents, teahouses on the trek in, fixed lines (critical service imo) etc. Ideally, I would’ve liked to climb Manaslu completely unsupported, but found it was damn near impossible. Plus, being solo, I really wanted to use fixed lines across the crevasses. In the end, I was happy with what I got… an incredible experience with some safety.

The cost was nearly prohibitive since I funded it all on my own dime… At least it was cheaper than Cho Oyu eye roll. Cho Oyu is technically easier and maybe safer, but closer to $15,000USD in a very minimal package. I paid roughly $7500USD for the package on Manaslu, which included all the normal basecamp services, plus my permit.

With a sherpa and oxygen, you can expect to pay around $12,000USD. With a guide, I don’t care to even think about… Probably around a hefty $20,000USD. Turns out, Nepal also charges a ‘heli ski’ permit for any skier on the mountain. Clearly, they have no understanding of the concept of ski mountaineering, as no helis were used. This was extremely frustrating, as the extra permit was $1500. A bit mind-boggling, as I consider my skis a safety tool to climb at that altitude without oxygen. Should the government also charge for a ‘heli mountaineering boot permit’?! In the end, I managed to find a way to split the ski permit price sharing with the Bulgarian and an unknown/unseen Chinese skier (??), in which the cost was reduced by a third. Yay.

Day 1:

Starting in the classicly dirty and chaotic Kathmandu! There, I met the team and sorted out all the permits. The other climbers were pretty cool, a badass French Woman named Elizabeth Revol, a Canadian named Sebastian, two Italians named Angelo and Davide and a charismatic Bulgarian named Vladimir Pavlov (with a snowboard)! They made great conversation and were themselves pretty inspiring individuals who told great stories. They would become great friends of mine by the end of the journey. All members seemed pretty dialled with their training and fitness, I was impressed. Turns out, not all Himalayan climbers are high paying clients with limited experience… Surprise!

Day 3:

After a few days putzing around Kathmandu, we took a long jeep ride (10+ hours) to the first drop off point, Besishahar. This tiny village was on the start of the popular Manaslu & Annapurna circuit, so it had all the amenities, it was quite comfy. Being previously acclimated from my bicycle journey, the next task was a slow plod to basecamp during the rainy season. To keep me sane and fit, I would go trail running in the evenings. The other climbers were not acclimated to the same standards, so some struggled a bit at Larke La (pass) 5100m.

The trek was mostly uneventful and without views (rainy season approach), answering questions from curious trekkers and bonding with my base camp team. The clientele we met heading for Manaslu was sometimes a bit baffling…. Mostly undertrained and well-off people, with the dream of climbing an 8000m peak. Naturally, everyone claims they will be doing an oxygenless attempt, but in reality, only about 2% make it to the top without oxygen, and most have sherpas carrying their equipment. I tried not to pass judgement, but I felt too many people had unrealistic fantasies (maybe mine were as well?) A few rainy days later, we crossed over Larke Pass and into Samagoan, the city below basecamp. Here, we had our first blue skies and view of the mythical Manaslu!

Day 8?:

Once we arrived at base camp, we were given our base camp tents, excellent meals and introductions to the entire base camp team. Everyone was friendly, but I found the sherpas to be quite apathetic towards the westerners. Don’t get me wrong, they were great people in the end…. But you got the vibe that they really did not care for outsiders. Maybe for a good reason? Maybe not. They were curious about my skis, so at least it kept them entertained. The sherpas found it amusing and terribly dangerous that someone would carry up skis to the summit of an 8000m peak. I tried my best to explain that skis were safe, with no luck. At one point, I built a ski track around basecamp and had some sherpas try to ski for the first time! Hilarity and laughter ensued.

Basecamp was virtually a small city, with hundreds of tents, Wifi(!!!), trekkers, cooks, sherpas, porters, and dogs. Privacy was rare, but the setting was stunning. Most often, it was cloudy above basecamp, although we got the occasional rare glimpse of that beautiful Himalayan range.

The other climbers from Satori arrived by helicopter, a group of 7 Italians, 3 Andorrans and an Australian. From the start, I knew most of them were not going to make it. They seemed competent enough, however, flying into basecamp is a shitty strategy, and it is not recommended it. It’s also a super lame style to climb the mountain, sorry to burst some bubbles.

These climbers were punished for their lack of time commitment, and rightfully so. All except 3 managed to get sick (no summit), and one lived in a refugio in the Dolomites. The other Andorrans were fit & experienced enough to push through… Although one had a serious case of HACE and had to be sent down with oxygen. He actually almost died at Camp 4. I understand that not everyone has the luxury to take a month off to climb an 8000m mountain… If this is the case, just don’t! End rant.

I went up to camp 1 the next sunny day to stash some gear and my tent, it was a chore to carry everything. However, the glacier was well filled in at the time, so I really enjoyed the skiing back down. Usually, I could beat the standard descent times by several hours with the skis, minimizing my time in the hottest part of the day. I really enjoyed taking turns with my new snowboarding buddy, Vlad.

The next step was to wait for our ‘Puja’ ceremony to end, in which the monks come up to basecamp in order to ask the mountain Gods permission to climb. The rule is to stay below camp 1 until the Puja ceremony was over. This probably helped a lot of people with acclimatization, but to those who were acclimated, we had to wait, respect the culture and hold off on moving forward.

Day 13?:

After Puja, we were free to go. The climbers with Sherpas were stuck for a few days, but the independents moved on. I found the higher route on Manaslu to be quite straightforward and minimal in hazard, minus a few sections above Camp 1. The icefall from C1 to C2 is indeed dangerous… Filled with hidden crevasses, hang fire, and slow climbers. At least the ladders were exciting.

I tried my best to gun it through these sections but was often finding myself behind a horde of slow and out of shape clients. It was stressful, as you knew any seracs above were coming down on the route if they decided to blow. The range of fitness and style can be a bit insane at times. For example, the Chinese teams generally lay siege to the mountain, and typically start taking oxygen as low as C2!!! Other clients are basically spoon-fed by their sherpas, while some climbers tend to require minimal assistance. Lots of flavours in the Himalayas.

Once at C2, I set up my final camp and skied back down to basecamp, skiing through most of the icefall and lower slopes. After a few days of stormy weather and rest, I went back up to C2 to sleep for a few days and acclimate. C2 is around 6400m, so I couldn’t tolerate sleeping for long. Often I would spend 2 days max, going up to C3 to ski the mellow powder slopes. C3 is only a few hours from C2 and 400m higher, so I never felt the need to haul my gear up there. The skiing was usually fantastic and the climbing was mellow. Below is a rough route overview, with the most dangerous hazard from C1 to C2.

My plan of attack was to go from C2 to the summit and back down in a single push. Most people told me this was impossible, as it was nearly 1800m (6000′) to the summit, but I felt confident and also that it was my only option to avoid getting too sick, too cold or bogging myself down with weight. I had trained hard and tested my strategy in various ranges around the world. The ability to skip camps is a blessing, not a curse. In my opinion, sleeping high is the real killer. I spent a lot of time between C3 & C2, just walking around and searching for lines. As a bonus, Camp 3 was usually above the cloud deck and afforded beautiful views of Manaslu.

Day 20ish?:

Finally, after a few weeks of acclimatizing and skiing, we started to get our first instincts that a summit window was approaching. Summit window in the post-monsoon Himalayas is tricky. It’s a balancing act between storms, crevasses, snow, winds, temperatures and avalanche stability. If you go to early, you are risking some serious post-holing, cold temps and epic storms. If you go too late, the crevasses are a mess and you risk being up high during a jet stream event… Not quite ideal on the summit of one of the tallest peaks in the world.

There was a larger percentage of sunny days, the winds were dissipating, and the snow was consolidating. Overall, looking good on the mountain. I felt pretty good about my health, so I was ready to go. Unfortunately, I jumped the gun a little too early and went to C2 with 3 days until the ideal summit push. I couldn’t stand sleeping at C2 after day 2 and tucked my tail between my legs and skied back down to basecamp.

Thinking I let my impatience get the best of me, I was bummed. Luckily, there was a 3-day summit window, so my new plan was to rest for a day in basecamp, and go straight to the summit once I reached C2 again. After a full day of rest & recovery, I went from basecamp to C2 and tried to keep myself as healthy as possible before the ascent, with the plan to start moving towards the summit at 10 PM. With little sleep, I packed my gear and started making my way up.

The start from C2 was cold and snowy, I knew the route well to C3, but I was post-holing and breaking trail, which was incredibly frustrating. Once I made it to C3 and could make out the other tents, I started moving up the ridge to C4. At this point, the snow was knee-deep and I was yet again breaking trail. I contemplated turning around, as I knew I couldn’t reach the summit in the current temps and exhausting trail breaking.

However, I had the assumption that things would change once I got to C4, which I was very fortunate that they did. On the way up, I found a headlamp buried in the snow…. To my surprise, it was a lone & obese Japanese climber on the brink of death. He was incoherent, purple and clearly exhausted. There was absolutely nothing I could do, except notify sherpas when I got to C4. Turns out, this guy survived! I suspect he had no business being on the mountain. From C4, shit hit the fan for me. C4 sits at a ridiculous 7400m…The sun was rising, but I was feeling the altitude at this point and seeing the other climbers and sherpas with oxygen didn’t help my cause. Around 7300m, the altitude really starts to kick my ass.

Video of Camp 4, from my friend Sandro, who carried two drones up the mountain! I believe he crashed one… Free drone if you’re willing to explore! 🙂 Camp 4, Manaslu.

The thing about supplemental oxygen is that it puts that mountain on a completely different playing field. An 8000m peak becomes a 7000m peak. While still difficult, the degree of difficulty without oxygen is several magnitudes in difference. Oxygen using climbers could maintain a steady pace, smile, talk, and perform tasks reasonably. They were happy. I felt like I was in a different world. Speaking was difficult, I was terribly cold (even in reasonable temps), and I was not stoked. My pace was roughly 100-200m vertical per hour…. barely snail speed. The words of encouragement from climbers descending only made me more upset, as they didn’t seem to grasp the hell I was experiencing. I knew they meant well, but it’s hard to stay positive being so oxygen-deprived. In the end, I gritted my teeth and kept plodding forward.

As I was climbing and nearing the summit, small storms were rolling in and then fizzling out to beautiful bluebird conditions. It certainly gave me anxiety, but I kept faith that the storms would stay small and dissipate. The last 100m felt nearly impossible, I can recount 1 deep breath for every 10 steps…. Brutal.

Finally, I reached the summit plateau alone & in poor shape… I was exhausted and ready to be off the mountain. Plus, it was cloudy, cold and miserable. After this experience, I had more respect for the “Death Zone”. On top, there was still another 50m exposed traverse to reach the top. Ugh. I sucked it up and put one foot in front of the other, utterly exhausted. I was being extra cautious as to not fall on the exposed traverse into the void. Once I reached the summit, I took a quick break and can recall my mental state… Not good. I was definitely in a place I did not belong. This only meant one thing: Time to ski! 🙂

Being alert & alarmed with my state, I clicked on my skis and started wheezing down the slope in between very noodly S turns. My legs were fried beyond frying. Finally, I felt the oxygen surging back into my bloodstream and my focus came back rapidly. I must’ve been below the death zone once again. I could finally ski the mountain as I wanted, so I started opening things up. Sure enough, about 400m off the top, I hit a buried fixed line… Sending me into a triple summersault in powder. I was livid at the situation. My first thought was ‘Anthony, get your shit together… NOW. Don’t blow it on the descent’. After recollecting myself, I skied smoothly and confidently on the mellow slope until I reached C4, where I felt home free! Lots of cheering from Camp 4 had me stoked.

Vlad on the ski descent from near the summit (not my video): Snowboard Descent from near summit

This wasn’t the end of my adventure, however. The climbing route is NOT a skiing route… littered with buried oxygen bottles, fixed lines, ice bulges, and generally bad snow. I decided to traverse skiers left to the massive 40-45 degree snow slope above C3. While conditions were whiteout, I could make out tracks from my Bulgarian snowboard buddy down the face.

Vladimir had skied off the summit earlier and we had both scoped out the line a few days prior. I followed his tracks until they disappeared. Since I had seen the face before, I had confidence that I could open up the face without any hazards. It was some of the best skiing I had ever done! A massive 2000′ face of knee-deep powder. I couldn’t believe the setting I was in. There was a concern of instability & I had to manage some sluff, but otherwise felt conditions were stable and good. Stoked!

Video of Vlad on the snowboard descent from C4: Snowboard Descent C4-C3 Headwall

Finally, I made it to C3 and opened it up further to C2, whooping and hollering, although the snow had turned into mashed potatoes and gravy. At C2, as I was packing up and eating, I managed to fall asleep in my sleeping bag, mid snickers bar. Looks like I wasn’t making it to basecamp for dinner… Oh well 🙂

I woke up the next morning to bluebird conditions, admiring the mountain and my ski tracks down the face. I was elated and very satisfied. A few hours later I reached basecamp, sunburned, haggard, and exhausted. I was greeted with cheers from my basecamp teammates and the sherpas. Everyone was happy that I skied off the summit safely and we were celebrating successful climbs coming from everyone! Good food and rest couldn’t come soon enough.

After a day or two of rest, my time on Manaslu came to an end. Nearly everyone except the sherpas and porters takes a heli back to Kathmandu. Since I had no time obligations, it was time to enjoy my newfound superpowers as Red Blood Cell Man! I decided I would run the Manaslu circuit, Annapurna Circuit, Annapurna Sanctuary, and Everest 3 Pass Trek + Basecamp. It was the best few weeks I had of running and celebrating. Since the monsoon was gone, I enjoyed shorts & t-shirts and running through some of the most epic scenery imaginable. A few shots from trail running the classic circuits:

Overall, my time spent in Nepal was amazing. I enjoyed nearly every minute and tried to get the most out of my time there. I met some incredibly inspiring people, pushed myself in ways I never thought were possible and learned a lot about myself. Obviously, there is a lot more I could write about this, and so many more stories. One day I hope to document more, but this is as far as I get for now! I hope you’ve found this trip report informative, inspirational or mildly entertaining. If you have any questions, feel free to reach out. Thanks for reading!

Gear List for a ski descent at 8,000m, on Manaslu

Boots – Fischer Travers Carbon (Not oversized)
Overboots – 40 Below
Skis – Salomon MTN Explorers 88 – 170 length
Bindings – Plum 150 AT Binding
Poles – Whippet & BD Alpine Cork
Sleeping Bag – Western Mountaineering, Alpinlite (+20F Rating)
Booties – Western Mtneering
Crocs (The most essential piece of gear on the planet)
Tent – Rab, Latok 2
Shell – Rab Windshell
Hydration – Platypus, Softshell Flask, 1L
Shovel – Climbing Technologies Axe/Shovel Combo
Hydration – Ultralite Nalgene, 1L
Baselayer Top – Rab 150 Merino Half Zip
Baselayer Bottom – Smartwool Midweight
Hat – Arcteryx Cap
Midlayer – Patagonia R1
Puffy – Arcteryx Cerium LT
Midlayer – Rab
Softshell – Ortovox
Stove – MSR Reactor with 1L Pot
Pack – Hyperlite Mountain Gear 45L, Porter with Modified Ski Strap
Garmin InReach Mini
Gloves – OR Alti Mitts & OR Alti Gloves
Socks – Midweight Smartwool
Goggles – Julbo Aerospace
Sunglasses – Julbo MonteBianco w/ Sideshields
Harness – BD Couloir
1 Prusik
1 Alpine Sling
3 Locking Caribines
Ascender – Petzl Micro Traxion
PAS for Ascender Extension
Crampons – Singing Rock, Strap version
1 Petzl Lazer Speed Icescrew
2 Buffs

Patrick Meier: Specialised In Mountain Photography

August 25, 2022 by Patrick Meier

Patrick Meier is a photographer based in Switzerland. He has specialised in mountain photography for some years. Patrick Meier has always been immersed in the mountain and mountaineering environment. Discovering photography a long time ago, Patrick Meier has then worked on projects with various firms and brands as well as being a Getty Images photographer. Through the interview, you will get to know more about Patrick Meier, a skilled mountain photographer in love with nature.

Patrick Meier, where do you come from?

My beginnings are humble. I was lucky enough to have grown up amidst the Swiss Alps, next to a beautiful lake.

The mountains and all of nature’s beauty were quite literally at my doorstep. As a young boy, I spent most of my days in nearby mountains and forests. The mountains will always be one of my first loves. However, it has taken the hustle and bustle of the concrete jungle in London for me to rediscover this love. I would often travel back to Switzerland from London and go on multi-day hikes and return to the UK with beautiful pictures and a clearer mind. Finally, having made a permanent move back to Switzerland, I found my happy place – mountain photography.

What do you do today?

Nowadays, I mainly focus on mountain photography. It’s not just taking pictures of stunning landscapes and wildlife but also being out there in the solitude of the wilderness.

The silence only breaks for the wind in the grass, an eagle’s whistle, the clanging of cowbells in a distant valley and the odd rock or ice falling in the distance. Nature, in its purest form, its elements and its unpredictability. The pictures are a bonus. I listen to nature and take my instructions as it orders.

How did you discover photography?

“Once you get into photography, you will never see anything in the same way again.” these were the words of my dad’s best friend, who ignited the photography spark in me a long time ago.

At the time, I had no idea how true these words were. He had an unbelievable collection of analogue film cameras and vast knowledge of light behaviour and composition. He was doing my head in all the time but, at the same time, had triggered something in me. In the late 2000s, I bought my first DSLR camera. What had started as an inquisitive hobby soon turned out to be a rewarding passion in my life. Today, I often catch myself thinking in f-numbers while composing images in my head when I see picturesque scenery.

Where does your passion for the mountains come from?

I’m pretty sure that a picture of my granddad pops up when searching for ”mountain goat”. He was a long-standing member of the Swiss Alpine Club (SAC) and would take me on adventurous hikes, spend nights in mountain cabins and teach me how to survive in the alpine territory. Furthermore, luckily (in hindsight), my dad’s dislike of planes meant we spent most of our holidays in the Swiss Alps – exploring and discovering.

What is your best moment/ memory related to being in the mountains?

I was seven years old when my dad took me on a strenuous but incredibly rewarding glacier crossing, equipped with my first proper ice pick, a rope and very stylish (or not!) 80s clothing!

There was a lot of snow on the glacier, and the crossing was strenuous and time-consuming as I kept sinking into the snow all the way up to my waist with every step. Finally, having completed the crossing, we came across a large herd of ibexes blocking the trail. Eventually, we ended up scrambling around these majestic creatures very carefully. After nearly eight hours, we finally made it back to the village, exhausted but happy. To this day, the memory of this achievement fills me with pride!

What is your environment/ world? Can you describe what inspires you?

I am lucky enough to be able to live in a beautiful part of the world still, surrounded by the alps, lakes and mountains.

I am reminded of the majesty of mountains with each waking hour and every time I look out of my window. This is my inspiration.

What is the best photography project you worked on? Why?

IIt’smore of an ongoing evolution as a photographer rather than a project as such. Mountain photography as a passion has had a major impact on my life. IIt’sthe perfect combination of being active and creative. All the planning and preparation that goes into my pictures is yet another element that excites me – especially when you know at the end of it all, the possibilities are endless.

There is nothing that relaxes my mind and recharges my batteries more than exploring remote places, spending nights in my bivouac bag under a blanket of stars and getting away from all the madness in our daily lives. Returning back home with striking images and seeing the emotions in the faces of my audience when showcasing my pictures is the icing on top.

What does a typical week look like for you?

When people see my pictures, they don’t often realise the effort that goes into my photography. I plan pictures well in advance and try to leave as little as possible to luck.

It can take years for the conditions to be right to get my desired shot, and it takes hours and hours of planning and preparation. I constantly make notes of potential places and locations; I scan Google Earth; use hiking and weather forecast apps; programs that show me where the sun, moon and milky way will be at certain times on certain days and how the light will hit the landscape around me.

Often, I also call local authorities and guides to make sure the current conditions are safe enough. And then, when the window of opportunity presents itself, I grab my gear and head out there! All this is then manifested into the final picture you see, which makes the hassle of carrying all my outdoor and photography equipment up to high altitudes and finding a suitable spot to crash for the night well worth it.

Do you have any mentor(s)? Who? Why?

I have acquaintances/partners in crime that encourage me to go on expeditions and adventures. Other mountain goats, fellow photographers, who I also teach, mountain guides and the likes.

There are a lot of incredible photographers that I look up to. I particularly like the landscape photographer Nigel DDanson’sor Chris BBurkard’sstyle and persona – truly amazing, even though they are not in the same field as me. I also get inspiration from websites and Instagram pages like endorfeen.

Great talents who motivate me to get out there!

If you have worked with brands, which ones?

I have the chance to partner with different brands and platforms such as Getty Images, American Express, UBS, Bullfrog…

Anything else you want o share?

A special moment? Person? A turning point in your life? Next project? All of this is possible thanks to my beautiful, supporting and encouraging wife.

It is her that reminds me to get out there on an adventure again and again. And it is also her, as well as the kids, that I very much look forward to returning home to. Without her as an anchor, I would be lost out there.

Alison Hargreaves, Britain’s top female climber

August 23, 2022 by Chrissie Stephen

As a young girl, Alison Hargreaves would sit at her school desk in the village of Belper in the English Peak District and gaze longingly at the beautiful mountain peaks that seemed to beckon her. She was fascinated by mountains, and furthermore, the Derbyshire school encouraged its students to enjoy outdoor activities, and she began rock climbing when she was just 13.

Her parents often organised family holidays in the country too. Alison Hargreaves was destined to become Britain’s top female climber.

“It is better to live one day as a tiger than a thousand days as a sheep”
Old Tibetan saying

The early days

Alison left school. Shortly afterwards, she met Jim Ballard, who was also an enthusiastic climber and skier. They opened a climbing equipment shop together and would later marry and have a son and a daughter – Tom and Kate.

In the years that followed, Alison began climbing mountains in the UK, the Alps and Nepal. By the mid-1980s, she was already recognised as one of Britain’s top female climbers with an undeniable skill and confidence in the mountains.

Yet, interestingly (and probably because she was a woman), Hargreaves always remained an outsider in British climbing circles.

As Britain’s top female climber with two small children, Hargreaves had to limit the number of expeditions she joined.

American climber Jeff Lowe asked her to join an expedition to the Himalayas. In 1986, They ascended Kantega Peak in Nepal via a completely new route. During this expedition, Hargreaves saw Mount Everest for the first time and vowed she would conquer it. In July 1988, she certainly caused a stir when she climbed the north face of the Eiger while six months pregnant with her son, Tom.

With two young children, Alison could not tackle any of the big mountains. So her climbing was confined to the Derbyshire Peaks and the Alps. However, her sights remained fixed on being Britain’s top female climber and returning to climbing.

The first ascent of Mt Everest

In October 1994, Alison Hargreaves made her first attempt to climb Mt Everest in the Himalayas. At 8,849 metres, Everest is the world’s tallest mountain on the planet. Hargreaves was tackling the mountain totally on her own. She had no support. Unfortunately, she was forced to turn back – as there was a significant risk of frostbite.

Ben Nevis beckons

Things were not running smoothly for the family as there were financial problems. Hargreaves had recently become a professional mountaineer and the main breadwinner. She and Jim had had to close the climbing shop they ran in Derbyshire, which had helped to fund Alison’s expedition to continue as Britain’s top female climber.

In addition, the couple had faltered on their mortgage repayments. Their mortgage lender repossessed their home In early 1995, and the family moved to Spean Bridge in the Scottish Highlands near Fort William. This meant Alison would be closer to Ben Nevis, where she could train in Alpine conditions for Everest.

The children followed in their parents’ footsteps. They were soon competent skiers and climbers. Tom would later leave Fort Williams to pursue his climbing career.

The world’s three highest peaks – a challenge for Britain’s top female climber

In 1995, Hargreaves began her quest to climb the three most prominent mountains in the world – Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga – within a single year, unaided.

This would be a fantastic achievement- never done before. Her first challenge was to climb Everest solo, which she did in May 1995. She climbed the north side up to the North Ridge and had Sherpa’s support until she reached Advanced Base Camp (ABC). From there on, she carried all her equipment, pitched her camps and used no supplementary oxygen supplies. Hargreaves wanted to climb ‘solo’. She even refused the offer of cups of tea from other climbers! On 13 May 1995, she made it to the summit of Everest – the first woman ever to do so

Within just a few weeks, Hargreaves was already in Pakistan, preparing to tackle her second mountain – determined to reach the summit of K2. Known as a challenging mountain, K2 stands in the Karakoram Range on the Pakistan/ Chinese border.

She joined up with a team of ten other climbers. Apart from this, she climbed solo without supplementary oxygen from Base Camp to the summit. K2 was always treacherous, and the weather was not good.

The climbers left for the summit on 9 August. When they reached Camp 3, it had vanished, buried in snow. There had been an avalanche just days before. This is a frequent event on K2. The climbers searched for their tents before subsequently pressing on to Camp 4- Camp 4 was luckily still intact. On 12 August the weather was good for climbing. Alas, the climbers felt too exhausted to make the ascent, so they rested at Camp 4 instead.

Alison Hargreaves — Alamy. As Britain’s top female climber, Alison showed tremendous tenacity.

The ascent of K2

The first climbers left for the summit of K2 at 02.00 on 13 August. The bad weather conditions made five of them decide to turn back before reaching the infamous Bottleneck Couloir. This group of climbers included Peter Hillary, son of Sir Edmund Hillary. Alison Hargreaves stayed in the group of six, heading for the top. She reached the summit at 18.17 that evening. As the climbers started their descent, they soon became caught up in a tremendous storm. The weather tossed five of them from the mountain. They fell down its South Face. The sixth climber got back down to Camp 3, where he died from exhaustion.

A climbing boot was spotted on the mountainside (14 August). It was one of Alison Hargreaves’ boots. The boot was thousands of metres below the summit. Climbers also spotted the body of Britain’s top female climber lying in thick snow. Despite several attempts, they were unable to reach it.

Alison Hargreaves had lost her life to the mountains at just 33 years old.

The media lashes out at Britain’s top female climber

When the news broke that Alison and five other climbers had lost their lives on K2, the world’s media focused more on Alison’s private life than her many climbing achievements. Furthermore, there was much criticism that she had pursued her mountain climbing when she had a young family. Alison had a six-year-old son and a four-year-old daughter. Many journalists branded her as uncaring and self-centred. It should be noted that male climbers with families do not face the same criticisms!

Alison Hargreaves came under attack from the media when she left for K2. Journalists asked whether it was right to tackle these potentially dangerous mountain peaks as a mother with young children at home. In an interview, she explained that no climber sets out on a climb if they think it will cost them their life. Furthermore, She explained how she felt as she embarked on a climb–

“There is a lot of effort from other people who are supporting you. It’s a fear of failure.”

Her passion for mountain climbing caused a furore! The book Regions of the Heart by David Rose and Ed Douglas makes an interesting read as it reveals public opinion at the time.

Fate deals the family a second blow

Following the tragic death of Alison Hargreaves, her husband, Jim Ballard, said that undoubtedly, he and their children would continue to climb, walk and ski. But, importantly, the children would make their own decisions when they were older.

Tom Ballard definitely shared his parents’ passion for climbing. After finishing school, Tom Ballard tackled some of the world’s most challenging peaks.

Notably, these included Pizzo Badile, the Matterhorn, Petit Dru and the Eiger. He became a record-breaking climber and earnt the nickname ‘King of the Alps’! Tom Ballard (30) and the Italian climber, Daniele Nardi, decided to tackle Nanga Parbat (Diamer) in Pakistan without a doubt. At 8,126 metres, it is the world’s 9th highest mountain. Unfortunately, they never returned from the expedition. Jim and Kate Ballard had lost two family members to the mountains… not only Alison but also Tom. Moreover, they had died just 100 miles and 24 years apart.

Alison Hargreaves’ the climbing pioneer

Alison Hargreaves was an innovative mountain climber and author. She loved the mountains and had great confidence climbing the world’s greatest ones.

Her highest accolade is that she completed a solo ascent of Mt Everest without the support of Sherpas. This meant she carried her equipment and supplies of bottled oxygen. She was the first woman and only the second mountain climber to achieve this. Subsequently, Alison Hargreaves was the first female climber to solo climb the six north faces of the Alps in one season. This was in the summer of 1993. Live her story! Through the pages of A Hard Day’s Summer – published in 1994.

The legacy that Alison Hargreaves has left to the climbing community is her inspiration and incredible love for the mountains…

Guide: What is Viscose Fabric?

August 18, 2022 by endorfeen

Viscose, also known as Artificial Silk or Art Silk, is the most frequent form of rayon. Its production involves various chemicals, many of which are hazardous to the environment when discharged into waterways.

Rayon is a manufactured fibre that consists of regenerated cellulose derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or bamboo. Rayon is soft, smooth, and cool to the touch. It is a relatively low-cost fabric that may be used to make a wide range of apparel items. Those items include blouses, dresses, jackets, carpets, and furniture.

While it originates from natural materials (wood), is it sustainable? What is it exactly, and what is its environmental impact?

What you will find here:

A bit of history
What is viscose?
Viscose’s production process, how is it Made?
Key characteristics, pros and cons
Environmental impact. Is it sustainable?
Difference between viscose and modal
Difference between viscose and polyester
How to care for viscose
Some interesting reads on the topic

A bit of history

Viscose has been in use since the late 1800s. It has a fascinating history. Hilaire de Chardonnet, a French scientist and industrialist (1839-1924), is credited with inventing the first commercial viscose fibre as a less expensive alternative to silk.

However, the cloth was so combustible that it was quickly removed from circulation until the German Bemberg Company developed an improved process.

British scientists Charles Frederick Cross, Edward John Bevan, and Clayton Beadle invented the viscose rayon manufacturing process in 1892. Then in 1905, after their development, the first commercial viscose rayon went on sale.

What is viscose?

Viscose is a kind of rayon fabric that is produced from wood pulp. It’s often promoted as a more environmentally friendly option than cotton or polyester. That fabric is also popular in the fashion sector as a cost-effective and more durable substitute for silk, having the same drape and smooth feel as the luxury material.

Viscose is often used to make drapey summer dresses, skirts, soft vests, and synthetic velvet. But it’s not just in our clothes that it’s utilized; it’s also used in making upholstery, bedding, or carpets…

The term “viscose” refers to the solution of wood pulp that is processed into fabric.

Viscose’s production process, how is it Made?

Viscose’s versatility lies in the fact that it can be blended with different fabrics such as cotton and polyester to boost their benefits. As mentioned, it comes from wood cellulose that goes through several steps leading to the final product, viscose fabric.

Viscose rayon is derived from some of those trees and plants:

Bamboo
Beech
Pine
Hemlock
Sugarcane
Spruce
Eucalyptus
Soy

Five key steps of the viscose production process:

The tree is transformed into a wood pulp, which is then dissolved using chemicals such as sodium hydroxide. It then forms a brown wood pulp solution.
The pulp solution goes through a washing, cleaning and bleaching process.
To produce the fibres, the material is treated with carbon disulfide and then dissolved in sodium hydroxide to form the “viscose” solution.
The solution is pushed through a spinneret, a machine that makes cellulose strings known as regenerated cellulose.
This regenerated cellulose is spun into yarn, which can then be woven or knit into viscose rayon fabric.
The final fabric is obtained after the regenerated cellulose is spun into yarn that can then be woven or knit.

Key characteristics, pros and cons

Viscose is an excellent option if you’re looking for a lightweight material with a nice drape, a lustrous finish, and a soft feel. In addition, it is relatively inexpensive and can convey luxury for a much lower price point. It also blends well with other fibres like cotton, polyester, and spandex.

Pros

Breathable. It’s a featherweight fabric that won’t cling to the body, making it perfect for summer wear.
Lightweight. Viscose rayon is derived from natural resources and is extremely light and airy.
Absorbent. Viscose fabric is an excellent choice for activewear since it is highly absorbent. It doesn’t retain heat, and it wicks away sweat effectively.
Free-flowing. Because of its silky, flowing feel, it drapes nicely.
Keeps Shape. Combined with spandex, it becomes a little more stretchy.
Easy to dye. Viscose fabric has long-lasting colour. Despite many items of washing, it maintains its colour well.
Hypoallergenic. It’s hypoallergenic since it has a low permeability.
Soft. While the material looks like silk, it feels similar to cotton. It’s a more affordable option than silk.

Cons

Fragile. They may break apart if you wash the delicate viscose rayon fibres in a washing machine.
Easy to mark. Stains and marks are difficult to remove from this fabric.
Shrinkable. Viscose fabric may shrink after each washing.
Bad durability. Fabric quality degrades with exposure to direct sunlight.
Age badly. Viscose fabric somewhat encourages the development of mildew.

Environmental impact. Is it sustainable?

As we mentioned, production generally begins with wood pulp. Unfortunately, this type of rayon is not inherently hazardous or polluting, even as a plant-based fibre.

For example, because of the fast fashion business’s reliance on synthetic fibres, a large percentage of today’s viscose is produced cheaply, using damaging processes for workers, local communities and the environment. Those processes rely on using lots of energy, large volumes of water and chemically intensive processes. Manufacturing that rayon ends up polluting and releasing many toxic chemicals into the air and waterways surrounding production plants.

Furthermore, because of its production process, viscose encourages the rapid depletion of the world’s forests, which are being cut down to make way for pulpwood plantations. Around 30% of rayon used in fashion is made from pulp sourced from ancient and endangered forests. This leads to habitat destruction, posing a significant risk to threatened species; it also frequently entails human rights infringements and land grabbing from indigenous communities.

Taking its sources from cellulose, viscose is considered a more environmentally-friendly fibre than other polyester alternatives, according to some. It is now being made using the Lyocell process, which involves utilizing N-Methlymorpholine N-oxide as the solvent. This technique generates minimal waste, making it much more eco-friendly than previous processes.

Modal is mainly made from the beech tree, and though the production process is very similar to the one of viscose, it generates a fibre with slightly different properties.

Some key differences:

Production. Modal is produced in the same manner as viscose, but the fibres are subjected to more significant treatment, resulting in a more robust, lighter, and more breathable end product.
Durability. Modal is more durable and flexible.
Strength. Modal is a “high wet modulus rayon,” which means it’s a kind of rayon that’s more robust when wet and doesn’t lose its form. When wet, modal has a greater fibre strength, making it simpler to wash and retain its shape.
Sustainability. Because lower amounts of sodium hydroxide are employed to create modal, it is more environmentally friendly.

Difference between viscose and polyester

Viscose and polyester have a lot of similarities. But, at the same time, these materials have many differences.

They are both breathable, moisture-wicking, and non-stretchy fabrics. However, the most significant distinction between polyester and viscose is that polyester is a 100% synthetic fabric, whereas viscose is a semi-synthetic fabric, like cupro. Polyester is more versatile, whereas viscose is often used as a silk substitute.

Some key differences:

Origins. Polyester is a synthetic fibre made from oil, while the other is semi-synthetic, made from plants but using chemicals.
Breathability. Viscose’s plant-based fibres allow for more breathability than polyester, which is manufactured from synthetic chemical polymers. However, polyester can be treated to become more breathable.
Durability. Viscose is not as long-lasting as polyester. Because plant fibres are used to make it, it can considerably shrink when washed and dried. Unfortunately, it wrinkles quickly as well. Polyester is the way to go if you want something that will last.
Texture. Viscose is a smooth and soft fabric and usually has the consistency of silk. On the other hand, polyester can render many more different kinds of textures.
Warmth. Polyester is a little warmer because it can be produced in various textures. Fleece, for example, is a warm polyester fabric, but not all types of polyester are necessarily warm.
Moisture-Wicking. Polyester is the superior option if you’re looking to choose between polyester and viscose based on moisture-wicking capability. The plant-based material does absorb water more. Therefore, it may take longer to dry than polyester.
Ease of Care. Because viscose shrinks more than polyester, it needs a little more attention. Polyester dries faster and does not wrinkle as much.

How to care for viscose

It is recommended to dry clean it. Sometimes spot treatments can lead to permanent stains. In addition, it can stretch and becomes much weaker when wet.

It is a delicate, absorbent textile that is relatively inelastic and highly susceptible to damage when wet. Carefully hand-wash the fabric in cold water to minimize dye bleeds if you must wash it. Then, use a mild detergent and massage it into the cloth. If stains have developed on viscose, use a mild detergent to gently massage the afflicted region for several minutes to avoid damaging the material.

Some interesting reads on the topic

Expedition in Alaska – Denali and Surroundings

August 16, 2022 by Guillaume Pierrel

About Denali, Alaska

Denali, called Mount McKinley from 1896 to 2015, is a mountain rising 6,190 meters above sea level in the Alaska Range. Denali is the highest point in North America and is, therefore, one of the Seven Summits. It is covered with glaciers.

Its remarkable height, extreme climate, and arctic location make it one of the most challenging peaks to reach in the world. As such, Denali remained unclimbed until 1913.

Since 1917, the mountain has been part of the protected area of Denali National Park. The normal route through the western foothills was opened in 1953. From 1975 to 2015, it was the subject of a dispute over its renaming before regaining its native name.

Expedition goal

The three weeks project is to explore Denali’s south face. The goal is to open a new route next to the Cassin ridge. Then, we can attempt a Day Ascent of the Mountain. This would require more rest before and after—climbing and skiing around Base Camp. (Annes Ridge Couloir Skiing, Mt Francis SW Ridge, Mini Mont Flower, Romen Couloir on Mt Hunter):

PLAN A Climb Cassin Ridge – One of the Most Iconic Climbs on the Mountain. It would require a minimum of 4 Days from Base Camp.
PLAN B Ski South Face of Denali – Ascend and Descend Via the same Itinerary
PLAN C West Rib – Ski Descent SW Wickwire

The team for our expedition in Alaska, Denali

Gaspard Ravanel

Gaspard is a young and talented snowboarder living in Chamonix.

He is a ski instructor but also loves paragliding and mountain biking, and he is now eager to discover new mountains!

Sponsored by TNF, Jones Snowboards, Smith Optic and Plum bindings.

He will be at the head of « la nuit de la glisse » in fall 2022 and a documentary on a Peruvian trip from 2021, released this fall on Netflix. He also plans to pass his guide diploma high mountain next year.

Guillaume Pierrel (myself)

Ski instructor for 15 years, currently aspiring Mountain Guide UIAGM and ANENA trainer (Snow and Avalanche specialist)

For a few years now, he has been setting up expeditions abroad, first 6000m+ one push in Bolivia solo and on skis in Peru (first ski descent W face at Tocllaraju 6080m). In August 2019, he ran the Sky Running on Lenin Peak, the world’s highest race culminating at 7134m.

At the initiative of spring 2020, the first repeat of the N Face of la Blanche de Peuterey without abseil (with Vivian Bruchez, Tom Lafaille, Boris Langenstein & Tiphaine Duperrier)

Summer of 2021, his expedition achieved a worldwide premiere on skis of the south spur at Gasherbrum II (8035m); he directed the film « ô’parizad », currently in cinemas and international festivals.

Inside our expedition Alaskan expedition to Denali

Step 1 Waiting for a good weather window

Before leaving, we met Mike Porter, that finally bet the record on Slovak ridge: 17hours.

Then met Fay Manners with her friend Michelle coming back from Cassin ridge in 3 days. Inspiring girls on their best days. I finally met Nims Dai (himself), that was here for four days doing the summit push with his Qatari client.

Step 3 Reaching goal – West Rib Ski descent

Due to very dry and icy conditions on the Denali this year, we declined to reach the Cassin ridge by the Seattle ramp because we were very conscious that the blue ice was giving us no return and a high-risk non-return option since we engage in the face.

The aim was to glide, not to abseil down.

Based on this observation, we decided to reach the summit by one push on the West Rib; without acclimatization nor tent, we went by fair means in alpine style on this mixed snow and rocks ridge. Beautiful view over the Camp 4/ 14OOOft; after a cold night (-30°celcius + strong winds), we finally reached the top of North America 6190m (20’320 ft).

Alone on top, after some pictures and reflection on the south face (big initial plan), we descended the west rib by the orient express couloir.

We met at the C4, a crew of famous alpinists/ Snowboarders from the USA, doing a charity to help raise awareness for mental health. Most of them are in the snowboard and outdoor industry:

Zak Miller, pro rider member of the « Zabardast » expedition and movie in Pakistan back in 2018

Amanda Leigh Hankinson: Pro athlete TNF – in charge of this event (charity S.T.A.Y.)

Emilé Zynobia: Operation coordinator for “Natural selection” in Jackson Hole.

We rode some lines around this area, such as « gully rescue couloir » from 5600m. And had a chess party and drank coffee in a warm crew atmosphere.

Conclusion of our expedition to Denali, Alaska

Looking back at this expedition, we have no regrets about not doing the big line we were looking for. No filming projects were established without any pressure on our shoulders; this experience was good to reinforce our team and find a shared passion for such projects. The first experience with the pulkas, good logistics and strategy will remain a cheerful souvenir and kick-off for our following projects.

And we reached the summit and came back safe and in shape; what else?

Guide: Cupro, what you need to know about that fabric

August 11, 2022 by endorfeen

Cupro is a semi-synthetic fibre made from the cotton plant. Its luxurious feel makes it a perfect choice for summer clothing items such as skirts, dresses and blouses.

Cupro is a synthetic cellulose fibre derived from Linter Cotton (or Cotton waste) that has been treated with cuprammonium. The cellulose is soaked in a chemical solution called “cuprammonium” to produce the yarn (hence the name).

The fabric is biodegradable, making it a viable, more eco-friendly option than viscose.

What is cupro, and where does it come from

Cupro is a fibre that was created in the 1900s in Germany and is also known as “Bemberg” (from J.P. Bemberg, who improved the initial formula developed by Swiss chemist Matthias Eduard Schweizer in 1890), “ammonia silk,” or “cuprammonium rayon”.

Cupro is a plant-based material chemically treated to create the resulting fabric, much like Tencel and Modal.

Cupro is considered to have all the benefits of silk: it’s silky-smooth and drapes like natural silk. As a result, it is a popular choice for clothing items.

It is a cotton “regenerated cellulose” fabric, essentially made of cotton waste (pre-consumer cotton). It’s composed of tiny silky cotton fibres, known as linter. Linter protrudes from the cottonseed and is too small to be spun. Then, the linter is put into a cuprammonium solution, containing copper and ammonium. It’s then spun into fibres when dropped into caustic soda:

Exposing: cuprammonium rayon is made by exposing the cellulose of a plant product (linter in our case) to a mixture of ammonium and copper
Combining: these two elements combine with the cellulose to make a new substance
Dropping: the mixture is dropped into caustic soda and extruded through a spinneret
Reconstructing: the extruded strings are immersed into a series of hardening baths that reconstruct the cellulose and remove the ammonia, copper and caustic sauda

Is cupro sustainable?

The answer to this question is a little more complicated than a simple yes or no. Cupro is made from the cotton plant, which is a natural fibre. It is also biodegradable, making it a good choice for those who care about the planet. However, it is not as sustainable as some other fabrics, such as Tencel and Modal, which are made from sustainably sourced materials. Cupro is also not as durable as some other fabrics, so it may not be the best choice for items that must be washed frequently.

In some ways, yes…

Cupro is a recycled textile since it results from the cotton processing process. We all know that cotton production is a very wasteful and energy-intensive procedure (hence the importance of the use of recycled cotton). It requires a large amount of water and pesticides when not organic. So using every last bit of the cotton plant helps to minimize waste.

Cupro is vegan and cruelty-free, unlike silk, which comes from insect cocoons. It’s also machine washable, which is more eco-friendly than dry cleaning delicate silk items.

…but not really

Although cuprammonium rayon has several advantages, there’s no denying that it is created with toxic chemicals that can harm people and the environment unless properly disposed of. Although the chemical baths are used multiple times, they must ultimately be eliminated somewhere.

Like all other synthetic textiles, China is the world’s major producer of cuprammonium rayon. Despite environmental concerns linked with cuprammonium rayon manufacturing, China delivers tons of “cupro” to Western nations every year.

As Sewport (sourcing expert) mentioned, “China’s synthetic textile factories are reviled around the world as havens for modern-day slave labour.” Despite the environmental and human concerns associated with cupro production, “China continues to export tons of cupro to Western nations every year.”

Cupro fabric does not have any certifications, and its production has even been forbidden in the United States “due to the inability of producers to comply with fundamental air and water protection standards.”

Conclusion

So while cupro is technically a recycled and cruelty-free alternative to silk, it’s not strictly ethical and sustainable.

Despite being recycled, cuprammonium rayon significantly negatively impacts the environment. Unfortunately, manufacturers of cupro and similar textiles are simply attempting to figure out how to make money with waste materials rather than searching for ways to solve environmental problems.

Over time, China has accumulated the world’s waste at a meagre cost, and Beijing lab scientists have worked tirelessly to find new applications for this trash. Copper, ammonia, and caustic soda are all inexpensive, and the cupro process itself is simple to execute.

Vågakallen Misgivings

August 9, 2022 by Darin Chadwick

Notes from a climb of the North Ridge of Vågakallen, Lofoten, Norway.

Vågakallen – starting the climb

I begin to ease out onto the little grass hummocks that magically stick to the slabs. Bits of dirt and moss rasp underfoot. Nothing is solid. I climb upward, glad that I won’t have to reverse these grass-clump climbing moves. The crack I was using for my fingers ends, so I palm on gritty slopers and follow the shrinking clumps that shift under my feet as I step on them. Finally, turn the corner, and see that it all ends. The wall steepens and blanks out of all protection possibilities other than bolts (no kit, of course). Further on the ridge are steep 10-15-meter-high headwalls, ringed with more clumps of grass that dangle over the abyss. I am off route. Reversing my moves, I begin the semi-controlled process of further loosening clumps of dirt and grass and stepping on sandy holds.

It was strange how normal all this seemed. The exposure of the ridge crest, the suspect, holds the grainy fragmented rock. Footholds were dependent on a few grassroots clutching rock. Of course, it was all part of alpine scrambling, but when I saw how off route I was and stopped to actually think about what I was climbing on… Well, suddenly, sport climbing on clean solid rock sounded like so much more fun, or maybe even a round of golf.

Vågakallen – my kind of climb

For me, technical rock ridge climbs on high alpine peaks are the ultimate in climbing expression. The walls are too obtuse and too difficult for my lazy abilities. Cragging and sport climbing have their allure, a great move here, a perfect hand crack there. But the alpine ridges give it all. Rock climbing, exposure, a summit, great views that just get better, and a clear line to follow. But sometimes, the line isn’t so clear. Here is where route finding comes into play, a significant part of ridge climbing. Left, right, or straight over? The game never ends, no one ever seems to climb the route the same way, and the guidebook authors either haven’t climbed it or have a faulty memory.

An hour later, I’m back on route, flying along, passing features mentioned in the guidebook, climbing the prominent chimney, traversing on prominent ledges, finding the prominent slab with the prominent handcrack etc.

Six hours later, I’m much closer to the summit. Sticky rubber approach shoes have helped tremendously, and simul-climbing has saved a ton of time on the easier ground. I’ve always felt on route, usually seeing the decoys before being lured too close. A couple of short turnarounds and downclimbs, no problems.

But now, I’m teetering out over the drop again. Nice ledges brought me here, and just four traversing moves away or so is an easy 4th class chimney with only a bit of grass in it for texture. But those four moves look ridiculous for a mid-fifth class climb, and the rock quality is especially bad. A couple of halfhearted gear placements only break off chunks of grainy rock, and everything is flaring anyway.

Is this the right way? How did I get off route again? If this doesn’t go, what alternatives do I have? I shift my feet on the one good foothold and have a look around. A wide crack is stuffed with grass; a grainy sloper is all I have for my feet to begin my lurch to safety. At my face is a hairline crack with water seeping down it. The rust-coloured crack is……….it is rust! Above my head is an ancient piton half eaten away by rust. I’m still on route.

Beyond my reach?

The summit of Vågakallen is just beyond my reach. Between me and there is a deep chasm. A rift in the rock that feels more like a crevasse on a glacier than a gap in a ridge. The bottom is filled with filthy snow and piles of choss that have collapsed in. The guidebook says to jump over this 15-meter deep gap. The jump is over two meters. I just can’t do it. My empty dehydrated stomach flops at the thought of the results of failure. Gingerly I rappel off the overhang into the hole. A survey of the opposite wall from above showed a couple of possibilities for climbing out. Now, as I creep over the snow and choss, I find that it’s quite easy and simple to climb out. Relief floods over me. All problems have met a solution.

The summit at last, despite all the mistakes and misgivings. So now, let’s have a look at the guidebook one more time and stare a little longer down at the descent route before we begin…

Guide: Recycled cotton

August 4, 2022 by endorfeen

Recycled cotton may be an excellent solution to avoid water scarcity problems. It’s even more environmentally friendly than organic cotton. Sustainable apparel manufacturing benefits from its use in several ways.

Recycled cotton is a more environmentally friendly option than conventional cotton and even organic cotton. This material is made up of cellulose used in the production of clothing, shoes, and accessories worldwide.

Recycled cotton is a form of natural fibre with similar characteristics to standard cotton. This cloth is light, breathable, and quick-drying.

What is recycled cotton?

Recycled cotton is made from old or damaged cotton fabric that would otherwise be thrown away. The fabric is sorted and cleaned and then shredded into small pieces. These pieces are then spun into new yarn, which creates new fabric.

The majority of reused cotton is gathered through mechanical recycling. Fabrics and materials are first divided by colour before being sorted. After sorting, the fabrics are fed through a machine that creates yarn and raw fibre.

This process is highly abrasive, putting a lot of strain on the fibre. During shredding, it’s not unusual for fibres to break and get tangled. After the fibrous material has been collected and washed, it is spun back into yarns for future products. Recycled fibre will never have the same quality as the original fibre, which limits the number of available applications.

We may recycle cotton from old clothing or textile remnants. The quality of recycled cotton might not be as high as that of new cotton. It is sometimes combined with new cotton to improve its quality.

Recycled cotton is a more sustainable option than traditional cotton, as it requires less water and energy to produce. As a result, it saves resources and eliminates further textile waste, unlike organic or conventional cotton. This makes it an excellent environmentally friendly option, but its production is still limited.

Recycled cotton into perspective, some key facts

The production of cotton represents c.2.6% of the global water use
Using 1000 kg of recycled cotton instead of organic cotton can save 0.5 ha of agricultural land, prevent 6600 kg CO2 eq of emissions from entering the atmosphere, and conserve 2783 m3 of irrigation water, research shows
Recycled cotton is mostly made out of pre-consumer cotton
The mix of materials in textiles makes separating cotton difficult, which is a barrier to recycling
It takes about 10,000 to 20,000 litres of water to produce one kilogram of cotton, the same as one T-shirt or a pair of jeans, according to the World Wildlife Fund (WWF)

Two sources for recycled cotton

Pre-consumer cotton

Pre-consumer cotton comprises the residue of cotton fabric scraped away during textile production. It is the most recycled form of cotton because it is much easier to recycle.

The fibre content of fabric scraps can be pre-sorted based on the cloth’s look and texture so that recycling plants don’t have to handle it as much.

Pre-consumer cotton is also more abundant and creates more volume of recyclable materials.

Post-consumer cotton

The textiles produced from cotton, including clothes, towels, and other household goods bought by customers, constitute post-consumer cotton.

It’s recyclable, but it isn’t very often because it can’t be recycled through curbside collections, and most municipal facilities lack the capability to do so.

This is because post-consumer textiles come in various colours, sizes, and textures.

It is very complicated and time-consuming to go through and sort all of the various cotton textiles that customers purchase.

Advantages and disadvantages of recycled cotton

There are several advantages to using recycled cotton in apparel manufacturing:

Soft, lightweight, and easy to wash
It is more environmentally friendly than traditional cotton, organic cotton, or synthetic materials.
It requires less water and energy to produce, which saves resources and reduces greenhouse gas emissions.
High absorbency (which makes it ideal for home or industrial cleaning cloths)
It is made from recycled materials, eliminating waste and reducing the need for new raw materials.
Breathable, durable, and quick-drying
Biodegradable and recyclable, which means it has a lower environmental impact than synthetic yarn

Despite these advantages, recycled cotton still has a few disadvantages:

The quality of recycled cotton may not be as high as that of new cotton. It is often combined with new cotton to improve its quality.
Its production is still quite limited, so it can be difficult to find recycled cotton fabrics or products made from recycled cotton.
It may be more expensive than traditional cotton or synthetic materials.

Recycling efforts

Today, many well-known companies have established recycling programs in their shops.

Columbia, The North Face, Patagonia, and numerous other companies encourage clients to recycle used apparel. In addition, those recycling programs often allow consumers to drop clothes from any brand.

Some of these initiatives provide consumers with discounts or points that can be used for future purchases. Patagonia also pays attention to repairing damaged clothing to extend its products’ life.

Cotton Incorporated has launched the Blue Jeans Go GreenTM denim recycling program. The Blue Jeans Go GreenTM initiative processes old jeans and converts them into insulating material. Created in 2006, the program claimed to have recycled over three million pieces of denim and diverted over 1,700 tons of textiles from landfills.

Some recycled cotton certifications

Global Recycled Standard

Control Union Certifications created the Global Recycle Standard (GRS) in 2008, and the Textile Exchange took control on January 1, 2011. The GRS is a global, voluntary, comprehensive product standard that specifies requirements for third-party recycling certification, chain of custody, social and environmental standards and chemical restrictions.

The certification is designed to fulfil the demands of businesses who want to authenticate the recycled content of their products (both completed and intermediate) as well as corporate social, environmental, and chemical policies.

It aims to establish criteria that guarantee correct content claims and acceptable working conditions and minimise harmful environmental and chemical effects. This includes ginning, spinning, weaving, dyeing, printing and stitching companies in more than 50 countries.

Standard 100 by Oeko-Tex

The OEKO-TEX® 100 Standard is a worldwide renowned label for textiles that have been subjected to rigorous testing for hazardous chemicals. It symbolises customer confidence and high product safety.

If a textile item has the STANDARD 100 label, you can be confident that every thread, button, and other accessories have been checked for hazardous substances and that the product is safe for human health.

Their testing partners examine several different compounds, both regulated and non-regulated, that may be hazardous to human health in the test.

Arête du Diable – The Devils Ridge

August 2, 2022 by Ryan Colley

The Arête du Diable is a classic Chamonix traverse. The route goes over the five towers that make up the South-East ridge of Mont Blanc du Tacul.

The approach is from Helbronner. It is about a 3-hour walk from the Midi or 2 hours from Torino. We approached from the Midi the day before and climbed a fantastic granite route on the Chandelle peak.

Then we camped at the top of the glacier. It had the advantage of spending a night alone in one of the wilder corners of Chamonix. However, it meant carrying a heavy pack over the climb.

The descent is down the North face of Tacul, which is the normal route, so it’s often well-tracked. There can be active seracs during summer. It pays to check with the mountain guides’ office if unsure of the conditions.

Overall it went well. I climbed Arête du Diable with Monse, a trusted partner and the first I had in Europe. It was great to catch up after over a year apart.

The route on Arête du Diable was surprisingly busy even though the conditions weren’t very good with a lot of snow. There were about six other parties behind us. As we were in front the whole way, it was a little stressful to have so many people behind.

Unfortunately, on the rappels just before the Isolee, we followed the Rockfax topo instead of taking an obvious ridge in front of us. Because the snow covered the next anchor, Monse had to climb back up a snow gully, and the other teams caught up.

Ropes, people and crampons clambered over us. I was happy when we could get off the belay and onto the ridge that looked like the right way from the start. Two other parties tried to take the gully, and although they eventually made it down, it took them a very long time to get out. We had to skip the famous Isolee pitch as there was so much snow, and it was getting late in the day. I do not think anyone went up this day.

We topped out around 2 pm. Besides a sweaty slog up to the Midi, the descent went well.