Archives for March 2023

What Is the Highest Mountain in Scotland? What About the Top 12? The Top 100?

March 18, 2023 by Andreea Iavorenciuc

Scotland is a gorgeous country with stunning landscapes. Thankfully, there are many options to choose from if you are looking to explore its amazing nature and climb some breathtaking mountains. However, you might be wondering “What is the highest mountain in Scotland?”

The Munros are Scotland’s mountains that have over 3,000 feet (914 meters) in elevation. There are 282 Munros, so you have plenty of peaks to choose from. You can even make it your personal goal to climb all of them. Thus, whether you pick one of the top 12 highest mountains in Scotland or go through all of the Munros, you’ll have the adventure of a lifetime.

Ben Nevis

At 4,411 feet (1,345 meters), Ben Nevis is the highest mountain located in Scotland. It can be found in the Grampian Mountains, and it is a formerly active volcano. Basically, the volcano’s roof collapsed into its magma chamber, creating Ben Nevis.

There are different routes you can take to reach this peak for a climbing adventure. For example, some hikers prefer The Mountain Track, while others go for the Carn Mor Dearg Arête route. The latter is a bit more challenging and requires practice and experience as a hiker.

Every year, thousands of people climb the mountain from the base. On average, it takes between 7 and 9 hours to reach the top.

Ben Macdui

Ben Macdui is the 2^nd highest mountain in Scotland. It peaks at 4,295 feet (1,309 meters). While it’s lower than Ben Nevis, this mountain is a bit more difficult to climb. For this reason, you should have the proper equipment and skill. Furthermore, the best route to take – and the easiest – is through the Cairn Gorm plateau. The climb will take an average of 6 to 8 hours.

Braeriach

Found in Scotland’s Cairngorms National Park, Beaeriach is the 3^rd highest mountain in the region. Sitting at 4,252 feet (1,296 meters) the mountain represents a challenge to many climbers, mainly due to its weather conditions. The peak is known to experience heavy snowfall and strong winds quite often. So, this makes it more suitable for experienced climbers.

The best route to take is through the Chalamain Gap that starts at the Sugar Bowl car park. Regardless or the route, if you want to enjoy the great wilderness in the area, then Beaeriach is certainly a choice to consider.

Cairn Toul

The next peak on the list is Cairn Toul, a mountain with stunning views that will make any hiker’s experience unforgettable. The mountain has 4,236 feet (1,291 meters) and it has well-defined ridges. Also, it’s part of the Cairngorms mountains and it’s pretty close to the Braeriach. So, if you visit the Braeriach, you may want to explore its neighbor as well.

For a smoother experience, you can start hiking in Glen Feshie, Lairig Ghru, or the Linn of Dee.

Sgòr an Lochain Uaine

If you go to Glenmore Forest Park, you have the opportunity to see the Sgòr an Lochain Uaine. This mountain measures 4,127 feet (1,258 meters). It is close to Lochan Uaine lake, from where it also got its name. You can enter the Sgòr an Lochain Uaine area through the Auchlean in Glen Feshie. You can then go up over the Càrn Bàn Mò.

Cairn Gorm

The sixth tallest mountain in Scotland is none other than Cairn Gorm. Its name translates to “green cairn” or “blue cairn”. This peak is known for its ski resort and its weather station and it has 4,084 feet (1,244.8 meters).

To reach Cairn Gorm, you can get Windy Ridge or the Fiacaill a’ Choire Chais path. For an excellent scramble, you can also settle for the Fiacaill Coire an t-Sneachda ridge.

Aonach Beag and Aonach Mòr

Next on the list, we have Aonach Beag and Aonach Mor. The former is 4,049 feet (1,234 meters) high, whereas the latter is 4,004 feet (1,220.4 meters) high. Basically, the two make the Aonachs, which is a ridge of mountains shaped like a horseshoe.

A popular route to these mountains begins at the Nevis Range center, from where you can start walking on a track into the wilderness.

Càrn Mòr Dearg

Càrn Mòr Dearg peaks at 4,012 feet (1,223 meters), and it is a common climbing mountain for experienced hikers. It’s to the east of Ben Nevis, and while it’s challenging as a route, it has some stunning views.

People usually climb from the CIC hut to the summit ridge. Still, it’s extremely important to be careful, as it’s quite a broken and loose surface.

Ben Lawers

Ben Lawers has 3,983 feet (1,210 meters) and it is located close to Loch Tay, which is the sixth largest lake in Scotland. While it is certainly not the highest mountain in the world, Ben Lawers is the highest one in the Central Highlands. So, it can take up to six hours to complete the route.

In order to reach the mountain, most individuals take the high-level car park and go through Beinn Ghlas.

Beinn a’Bhùird

At 3,923 feet (1,196 meters), this mountain can be accessed from the Glen Quoich ancient pinewoods, although some people also take the Gleann an t-Slugain moors. If this mountain is on your list, get ready because it can take between 7 and 9 hours to reach the top. Despite this, the views are definitely rewarding.

Càrn Eige

Càrn Eige has 3,881 feet (1,183 meters) and is the highest mountain in the northern area of Scotland. Due to its unusual shape, which resembles a horseshoe, it can give walkers quite a long journey, requiring between 10 to 13 hours to get to the top.

In case you want to take this route, you can begin your journey at the Chisholm Bridge car park.

Beinn Mheadhoin

On the twelfth spot, we have Beinn Mheadhoin, which is 3,878 feet (1,182 meters) high. Although it resembles a hill more than a mountain, it’s not hard to notice various granite rock formations at the summit plateau. On average, people take 8 to 9 hours to climb the mountain, after which they are able to see a stunning view.

In case you want to get to the northeast shoulder, you can take the route from below Loch Avon. Meanwhile, from down to Loch Etchachan, you can reach the southwest shoulder.

The Top 100 Munros

The name “Munros” refers to a classification system named after Sir H.T. Munro. Basically, it represents the highest mountains in Scotland. Sir H.T. Munro was the first one to make a compilation of all the peaks exceeding 3,000 feet (or 914 meters) in Scotland, which is why the system was named after him.

In total, there are 282 Munros in Scotland. Only 34 mountains in the rest of the United Kingdom reach more than 3,000 feet. Here are the top 100 Munros:

Munro no	Munro Name	Height in Metres	Height in Feet	Area or Range
1	Ben Nevis	1344.53	4411	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
2	Ben Macdui [Beinn Macduibh]	1309	4295	Cairngorms
3	Braeriach	1296	4252	Cairngorms
4	Cairn Toul	1291	4236	Cairngorms
5	Aonach Beag	1234	4049	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
6	Carn Mor Dearg	1220	4003	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
7	Ben Lawers	1214	3983	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
8	Beinn a’ Bhuird [Beinn a’ Bhuird North Top]	1197	3927	Cairngorms
9	Beinn Mheadhoin	1182.9	3881	Cairngorms
10	Carn Eige [Carn Eighe]	1182.8	3881	Loch Duich to Cannich
11	Stob Choire Claurigh	1177	3862	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
12	Ben More	1174	3852	Loch Lomond to Strathyre
13	Ben Avon – Leabaidh an Daimh Bhuidhe	1171	3842	Cairngorms
14	Stob Binnein	1165	3822	Loch Lomond to Strathyre
15	Beinn Bhrotain	1157	3796	Cairngorms
16	Lochnagar – Cac Carn Beag	1156	3793	Braemar to Montrose
17	Sgurr nan Ceathreamhnan [Sgurr nan Ceathramhnan]	1151	3776	Loch Duich to Cannich
18	Sgurr na Lapaich	1151	3776	Killilan to Inverness
19	Bidean nam Bian	1149.4	3771	Loch Linnhe to Loch Etive
20	Ben Alder	1148	3766	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
21	Geal-charn	1132	3714	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
22	Ben Lui [Beinn Laoigh]	1130	3707	Inveraray to Crianlarich
23	Binnein Mor	1130	3707	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
24	An Riabhachan	1129	3704	Killilan to Inverness
25	Creag Meagaidh	1128	3701	Loch Lochy to Loch Laggan
26	Ben Cruachan	1127	3698	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
27	Meall Garbh	1123.1	3685	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
28	Beinn a’ Ghlo – Carn nan Gabhar	1121.9	3681	Pitlochry to Braemar & Blairgowrie
29	A’ Chraileag [A’ Chralaig]	1120	3675	Glen Affric to Glen Moriston
30	Beinn Tulaichean	945.8	3103	Loch Lomond to Strathyre
31	Sgor Gaoith	1118	3668	Cairngorms
32	Stob Coire Easain	1115	3658	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
33	Sgurr nan Conbhairean	1109	3638	Glen Affric to Glen Moriston
34	Sgurr Mor	1108	3635	The Fannaichs
35	Meall a’ Bhuiridh	1107.9	3635	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
36	Mullach Fraoch-choire	1102	3615	Glen Affric to Glen Moriston
37	Creise	1099.8	3608	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
38	Sgurr a’ Mhaim	1099	3606	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
39	Sgurr Choinnich Mor	1094	3589	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
40	Sgurr nan Clach Geala	1093	3586	The Fannaichs
41	Stob Ghabhar	1090	3576	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
42	Bynack More	1090	3576	Cairngorms
43	Beinn a’ Chlachair	1087	3566	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
44	Beinn Dearg	1084	3556	Loch Broom to Strath Oykel
45	Schiehallion	1083	3553	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
46	Beinn a’ Chaorainn	1083	3553	Cairngorms
47	Sgurr a’ Choire Ghlais	1083	3553	Kyle of Lochalsh to Garve
48	Beinn a’ Chreachain	1080.6	3545	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
49	Ben Starav	1078	3537	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
50	Beinn Sheasgarnaich [Beinn Heasgarnich]	1077.4	3535	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
51	Beinn Dorain	1076	3530	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
52	Beinn a’ Ghlo – Braigh Coire Chruinn-bhalgain	1070	3510	Pitlochry to Braemar & Blairgowrie
53	Meall Corranaich	1069	3507	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
54	An Socach	1069	3507	Killilan to Inverness
55	Sgurr Fhuaran	1068.7	3506	Loch Duich to Cannich
56	Glas Maol	1068	3504	Braemar to Montrose
57	An Teallach – Bidein a’ Ghlas Thuill	1062.5	3486	Loch Maree to Loch Broom
58	Liathach – Spidean a’ Choire Leith	1055	3461	Loch Torridon to Loch Maree
59	Toll Creagach	1054	3458	Loch Duich to Cannich
60	Sgurr a’ Chaorachain	1053	3455	Kyle of Lochalsh to Garve
61	Beinn a’ Chleibh	916.3	3006	Inveraray to Crianlarich
62	Beinn a’ Chaorainn	1052	3451	Loch Lochy to Loch Laggan
63	Glas Tulaichean	1051	3448	Pitlochry to Braemar & Blairgowrie
64	Geal Charn	1049	3442	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
65	Creag Mhor	1047	3435	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
66	Chno Dearg	1046	3432	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
67	Ben Wyvis – Glas Leathad Mor	1046	3432	Loch Vaich to Moray Firth
68	Cruach Ardrain	1045.9	3431	Loch Lomond to Strathyre
69	Beinn Iutharn Mhor	1045	3428	Pitlochry to Braemar & Blairgowrie
70	Stob Coir’ an Albannaich	1044	3425	Glen Etive to Glen Lochy
71	Meall nan Tarmachan	1043.5	3424	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
72	Carn Mairg	1042	3419	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
73	Sgurr na Ciche	1040	3412	Knoydart to Glen Kingie
74	Meall Ghaordaidh	1039.8	3411	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
75	Beinn Achaladair	1038.5	3407	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
76	Carn a’ Mhaim	1037	3402	Cairngorms
77	Sgurr a’ Bhealaich Dheirg	1036	3399	Loch Duich to Cannich
78	Gleouraich	1035	3396	Glen Shiel to Loch Hourn and Loch Quoich
79	Carn Dearg	1034	3392	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
80	Beinn Fhada	1032	3386	Loch Duich to Cannich
81	Am Bodach	1031.8	3385	Fort William to Loch Treig & Loch Leven
82	Ben Oss	1029	3376	Inveraray to Crianlarich
83	Carn Gorm	1029	3376	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
84	Carn an Righ	1029	3376	Pitlochry to Braemar & Blairgowrie
85	Sgurr a’ Mhaoraich	1027	3369	Glen Shiel to Loch Hourn and Loch Quoich
86	Sgurr na Ciste Duibhe	1027	3369	Loch Duich to Cannich
87	Ben Challum [Beinn Challuim]	1025	3363	Glen Lyon to Glen Dochart & Loch Tay
88	Beinn a’ Bheithir – Sgorr Dhearg	1024	3360	Loch Linnhe to Loch Etive
89	Liathach – Mullach an Rathain	1023	3356	Loch Torridon to Loch Maree
90	Buachaille Etive Mor – Stob Dearg	1021.4	3351	Loch Linnhe to Loch Etive
91	Ladhar Bheinn	1020	3346	Knoydart to Glen Kingie
92	Meall na Aighean	981	3219	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
93	Meall Garbh	968	3176	Loch Rannoch to Glen Lyon
94	Aonach air Chrith	1019.5	3345	Glen Shiel to Loch Hourn and Loch Quoich
95	Beinn Bheoil	1019	3343	Loch Treig to Loch Ericht
96	Mullach Coire Mhic Fhearchair	1015.2	3331	Loch Maree to Loch Broom
97	Garbh Chioch Mhor	1013	3323	Knoydart to Glen Kingie
98	The Saddle	1011.4	3318	Glen Shiel to Loch Hourn and Loch Quoich
99	Beinn Ime	1011	3317	Inveraray to Crianlarich
100	Beinn Udlamain	1010.2	3314	Loch Ericht to Glen Tromie & Glen Garry

Conclusion

As you can see, Ben Nevis is the tallest among the Munros, and can provide you with breathtaking views. However, Scotland has numerous other tall mountains, such as Ben Macdui, Braeriach, Cairn Gorm, and many others that can offer you unforgettable adventures.

Skilled Volunteering – Protect what you love

March 16, 2023 by Leo Kleine

The trigger

My humble observations

Protect what you love! As I write this, I am sitting in front of my screen, it’s 11 pm, and I just finished organizing a bunch of files. What an unlikely start for a story on this website. But this one is not (only) about mountain adventures. This one is about why exactly you should and how you can join the fight for a healthy planet.

As mountain sports enthusiasts, we have seen the effects of climate change a bit more dramatically than most others. Last year, we first witnessed a very warm winter with few good skiing conditions. Friends who had set their eyes on some north faces had trouble finding good conditions and had to adapt to absurd timing. The plans of many climbers and mountaineers were crushed by falling rocks during the exceptionally dry and hot summer.

Of course, we have to admit that those problems are not very severe compared to people facing the floods in Pakistan, the melting permafrost in rural areas of Alaska or the global south battling heat waves and rising sea levels threatening the survival of millions of people.

Protect what you love

But nonetheless, the mountains are where we live out our passions and where we spend our best days. Science tells us that humans need an emotional connection to care about something. Knowing about a distant disaster is not enough for most of us to really take action. But we climbers, skiers, hikers, paragliders, and alpinists have this strong connection to the mountains, their rock, wildlife and glaciers. We should protect what we love!

In 2007 the pro-snowboarder Jeremy Jones founded Protect Our Winters (POW) with the goal of harnessing the power of the outdoor community to fight climate change. Recently POW Athlete Tommy Caldwell was featured in a New York Times article displaying POW as one of the most effective groups advocating for climate policies. I guess we’re gonna take that as proof of concept for now.

To find and support your local POW Chapter: protectourwinters.org

Skilled volunteering

A different idea of volunteering

In 2017 the Swiss chapter of POW was founded, and ever since, I have volunteered for POW Switzerland. Opposed to the first image that comes to mind when you hear about “volunteering”, I never ever handed out flyers at the shopping mall. Instead, I got to use and develop my professional skills.

I hold a master’s degree in architecture and worked in some bigger Swiss offices as a competition architect for some years. Besides developing concepts and ideas, we needed to explain those graphically. Project management, pressure resistance and an eye for good design are absolutely necessary.

Carrying a sustainable meal up to a Swiss mountain hut – © Remo Thommen / Patagonia

Putting my skills into action

Those skills came in very handy for a small but fast-growing NGO. And so, in the past years, I worked on all types of graphic designs, from flyers to be distributed at ski resorts to posters and slide decks for presentations or our annual report. I held presentations at mountain huts and got called on stage in front of 300 people to speak about POW and climate change, ski toured with a pack full of vegetables and learned more about event management than I ever wanted. It is fantastic to use my skills to protect what I love.

Of course, not all of this was right in the middle of my comfort zone, but that is also a good thing: I was able to discover new talents in me that I was not aware of and learn tons of new tricks as a graphic designer and in communications. Beyond this, I learned about climate change and how to slow it down from professors and scientists. Most importantly, I made a lot of new friends with whom I ski and climb a lot.

Find your opportunity

As you can see from my story, skilled volunteering can be great for both sides: the NGO in need of specific help and the volunteer alike. This is why outdoor company Patagonia made skilled volunteering a fundamental pillar of their platform Patagonia Action Works.

Patagonia Action Works is a website intending to share the reach of Patagonia in the outdoor world with the Non-Profits they support. NGOs can share petitions and events but also look for the help of volunteers with specific tasks or projects. Beyond working with POW, I also had plenty of good experiences with connections via Patagonia Action Works: with the great people of Mountain Wilderness France, the Cascades Wolverine Project and the Soil Heroes Foundation.

Your turn to take action!

Go to eu.patagonia.com/actionworks. Log in to your location and the causes you care most about.
You will now notice the section for skilled volunteering by the yellow bars and the volunteering icon.
Scroll through all the important projects in need of help and find one that suits you. No luck this time? Make sure to check back later!
Click on a ticket that interests you to get more information and apply.

A well-deserved turn – © Remo Thommen / Patagonia

FWT23 Fieberbrunn – Massive moves and stunning stunts

March 16, 2023 by endorfeen

Key highlights of the FWT23 Fieberbrunn

A compact group of competitors pursue FWT glory after the cut
Pristine snow and clear skies provide some of the season’s finest conditions for athletes
Katie Anderson becomes the first Canadian snowboarder to clinch the world title in the women’s category. The other three categories remain fiercely contested

After an initial delay earlier this week, the FWT Finals commenced with a bang today in the Austrian Tyrol region. Competitors gave their all in the second-to-last event of the season. They battled it out on the iconic Wildseeloder mountain – known as one of the most demanding and complex locations on the tour – as the race for ranking points intensifies.

FWT23 Fieberbrunn – Snowboard Men

Jonathan Penfield (USA) maintained his steady season performance by executing a smooth line to secure the win. He launched into the approach of the Häusl cliff and followed with a high-speed cross-court transfer. Penfield then filled the lower section with flawless jumps and rode his way to triumph. Ludovic Guillot-Diat (FRA) preserved his gold bib with a uniquely imaginative line that earned him second place. In addition, Liam Rivera (MEX) completed the podium line-up.

“It was hard coming here in low snow, but we waited for the conditions to improve, which they did. The run was super fun. I was a little hesitant picking my line, but this morning it looked good to go, and I did all the drops I wanted to. I did plan to do more freestyle tricks, but the take-offs were not always there, so I was stoked to put down a good freeride line today.”
Jonathan Penfield

Snowboard Women

Katie Anderson (CAN) connected flawless powder turns into a close-out cliff. Finally, she concluded with a spotless lower section featuring several jumps, earning her the top position. This marks her third victory this season. It places her beyond the reach of other competitors and secures her first FWT world title. Local favourite Manuela Mandl (AUT) claimed second place but unfortunately announced her retirement from the FWT. Anna Orlova finished in third place.

“The snow was great, and this face is super cool, so it was great to have a good run. I ended up changing my line, and found myself in the white room a lot, so I couldn’t see all the take-offs, which was a little scary at times! It doesn’t feel real [to be world champion], but I am very excited – I could only dream of this.”
Katie Anderson

Fieberbrunn – Ski Women

Arianna Tricomi (ITA) reclaimed her familiar position, capturing first place in an FWT event. She showcased her remarkable freeride abilities at the top, confidently entering an exceptionally technical area with speed and assurance, and followed up with her signature 360 in the lower section. Justine Dufour-Lapointe (CAN) secured the overall rankings lead with a strong run, finishing in second place, while Megane Betend (FRA) claimed third place.

“I had a lot of fun with my run. In some parts, the snow was a bit crusty, and other sections were good, so I came out with a lot of speed at times. My goal was to do a 360, which I did, so I really enjoyed it. Being back on tour is magical for sure!”
Arianna Tricomi

Fieberbrunn – Ski Men

Andrew Pollard (USA) executed a seamless run from start to finish, initiating with a swift cross-court 360 above the Häusl cliff and following with a significant jump off the nose. He combined this with multiple features, including another 360 and several impressive jumps, to secure first place. Maxime Chabloz (SUI) performed a thrilling run filled with high-velocity stunts on the edge, earning him second place, while Oscar Mandin (FRA) finished in third place.

“It was a long week waiting for the conditions to be right, but we proved that the weather window works and that sometimes delaying the start is the best thing to do. I was happy to put down my run, which is always harder on a long venue like this. I didn’t think I could win anymore with all the young kids on tour, so I am just grateful to be here in Austria and stoked to win.”
Andrew Pollard

The inaugural event of the FWT Finals certainly lived up to expectations, as athletes selected bold lines and inventive features to captivate judges and audiences alike. Revisit today’s thrilling action at www.freerideworldtour.com.

The Yeti Xtreme Verbier is scheduled for March 25 to April 2, providing competitors with a final opportunity to accumulate points and vie for the world title.

The Marmolada broken by climate change

March 14, 2023 by endorfeen

The Marmolada, the highest mountain of the Dolomites

The Marmolada is the highest and most renowned of the Dolomites mountain range. It is located in the north of the Veneto region. It can be easily accessed from Val di Fassa, Canazei or the Cordevole valley. The Marmolada is an immense ascending slope that rises gently from Lake Fedaia.

The Marmolada, which houses the Punta Penia peak at 3,342 meters, is the highest summit of the Dolomites. These unique mountains in the world are located between the Veneto region and Trentino-Alto Adige. They were inscribed in the UNESCO Natural Heritage in 2009.

The Marmolada was marked by war between 1915 and 1917. Today, it houses the highest museum in Europe in memory of the many missing on its rocks.

Originally covered in forests, the mid-height vegetation has gradually decreased to make way for more sparse vegetation around 2000 meters altitude. At the top, there is a glacier, offering the possibility of skiing in summer, accessible by cable car.

At the foot of the massif lies Malga Ciapèla, a small basin surrounded by mountains. It is located at the top of Val Pettorina in the municipality of Rocca Pietore at an altitude of 1,450 meters. From Malga Ciapèla, it is possible to take the cable car that will take you to the top of the Marmolada, the Queen of the Dolomites.

The cable car

The cable car located on the Marmolada comprises three cable car lines.

Antermoia Bank, the first station, is located at an altitude of 2,350 meters; the second, named Serauta, is located at 2,950 meters; and the third, named Punta Rocca, is located at 3,265 meters of altitude. Punta Penia, culminating at 3,343 meters, is the highest peak of the Dolomites. The cable car covers a vertical drop of 1,815 meters.

These installations, erected in 1965, underwent a complete renovation in 2004.

The melting of the ice, a drama at Marmolata

On July 3, 2022, it was 10°C, tons of ice and rock detached from the summit of Marmolada, located at an altitude of more than 3,000 meters.

The mountain, nicknamed the “Queen of the Dolomites” and appreciated by hikers traversing the Italian Alps for ages, has finally succumbed to abnormally high temperatures for the season and recurrent episodes of drought.

The event caused the death of 11 people and many others were injured. Although this episode may seem exceptionally violent, it is nevertheless part of the continuity of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC)‘s forecasts, which published a study in winter 2021 on the observed and expected impacts of climate change in mountain regions.

It is a sad illustration of the disruptions currently underway and to come if humanity does not take radical measures quickly to change course.

The images are striking and the noise accompanying them is deafening: the partial break of the Marmolada glacier, which occurred this Sunday, July 3, was quickly relayed on social networks and in Italian media. We can see tons of ice and rock rushing down the valley at a speed of more than 300 km/h, carrying everything in their path, including hikers who had come to explore the Italian peaks.

The warning signs

The gaping hole left by the collapse is located at one of the peaks of the massif, called Punta Rocca, at an altitude of 3,309 meters, which is the highest point of a route frequently used by hikers. Temperatures on the north face, where the glacier is located, were around 10 degrees Celsius a few hours before the tragedy.

Yet, other people had already noticed certain signs of what was to come. This is particularly the case of the alpinist Reinhold Messner, born a few kilometers from the Marmolada and famous worldwide for being the first person to climb the fourteen peaks of more than 8,000 meters of the planet.

During an interview on an Italian national television channel, he commented on the event saying: “With climate change, and particularly the high temperatures of recent weeks, the ice is becoming very thin in some places, it is no longer the glacier of fifty years ago”.

A direct consequence of climate change

This exceptional climate has clearly accelerated the melting of the snow already observed for several years. “This glacier has lost 30% of its ice volume in ten years. If nothing changes, we think it will have completely disappeared by 2042,” said Jacopo Gabrieli, glaciologist at the Venice Institute of Polar Sciences.

The glacier, as we see it today, is the same size as in September after a dry summer. With these temperatures, a pocket of water formed under the glacier and when the serac detached, it found no support and slid at great speed.

“We can clearly observe the effects of the excessive temperatures that have persisted for several months!”, explained Jacopo Gabrieli, glaciologist at the Venice Institute of Polar Sciences.

The report of the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) published on March 1st highlights the melting of ice and snow as one of the 10 major threats caused by climate change, disrupting ecosystems and endangering certain infrastructures. The IPCC specifies that glaciers in Scandinavia, Central Europe and the Caucasus could lose between 60 and 80% of their mass by the end of the century.

A bit of History

The significant events of the 19th century

In 1802, don Giuseppe Terza, chaplain of Pieve di Livinallongo, made the first attempt to climb the Marmolada, but unfortunately, he disappeared into a crevasse on August 2nd.

1856, Pellegrino Pellegrini, considered to be the first guide of the Dolomites, led Gian Antonio de Manzoni, Antonio Marmolada, Pietro Mugna and don Lorenzo Nicolai to the summit of Pizzo Serauta on August 26th.

In 1860, John Ball, John Birkbeck Senior and Victor Tairraz conquered Punta Rocca.

1861, the Punta Rocca was climbed for the second time by Pellegrino Pellegrini and Anthon von Ruthner.

In 1862, the Punta Rocca was climbed for the third time by Pellegrino Pellegrini, a porter, and Paul Grohmann. They found the thermometer left at the summit by Ball and Birkbeck at the end of July.

On September 28th 1864, Paul Grohmann, Pellegrino Pellegrini, Angelo Dimai and Fulgenzio Dimai made the first ascent of Punta Penia by the North face, thus marking an important step in the history of climbing Marmolada.

On June 2, 1865, François Devouassoud, G. H. Fox, Douglas William Freshfield, Peter Michel and Francis Fox Tuckett made the second ascent of Punta Penia, thus confirming the feasibility of the ascent and contributing to the development of mountaineering in the Dolomites.

On June 17th 1872, Christian Lauener, Santo Siorpaes and F.F. Tuckett traversed the West ridge of the Marmolada, thus marking a new important step in the history of climbing this iconic mountain of the Dolomites.

On July 31, 1878, Clemente Callegari, Alberto de Falkner, Giovanni Battista Della Santa and Cesare Tomè climbed the West face of the Marmolada, thus opening a new route of ascent to this mythical mountain of the Dolomites.

On August 5th, 1882, Emil Zsigmondy, Otto Zsigmondy and Ludwig Purtscheller accomplished the first traverse of the Marmolada, from Punta Rocca to Punta Penia, without taking the ridge. This feat of mountaineering was an important step in the exploration of the Marmolada and contributed to the rise of mountaineering in the Dolomites.

The Marmolada in the 20th century

In 1901, Michele Bettaga and Bortolo Zagonel climbed the South face of the Marmolada, thus opening a new route of ascent of this emblematic mountain of the Dolomites. This achievement was hailed as a technical feat and contributed to reinforcing the reputation of the Marmolada as a major summit of alpinism.

In 1929, Demeter Christomannos, Luigi Micheluzzi and Roberto Peratoner climbed the South Pillar of the Punta Penia of the Marmolada, thus marking a new step in the history of climbing this iconic mountain of the Dolomites. This achievement was considered a remarkable technical feat and contributed to reinforcing the reputation of the Marmolada as a major summit of alpinism.

From August 29th to 31st, 1936, Gino Soldà and Umberto Conforto achieved the ascent of the South-East face of Punta Penia of the Marmolada. They managed to climb this impressive wall in thirty-six hours of climbing, thus marking a new step in the history of the Marmolada’s climbing. This accomplishment was hailed as a remarkable technical feat and contributed to reinforcing the reputation of the Marmolada as a major summit of alpinism.

In 1936, Giovanni Battista Vinatzer and Ettore Castiglioni climbed the South face of the Punta Rocca of the Marmolada, thus marking a new step in the history of climbing this iconic mountain of the Dolomites. This achievement was hailed as a remarkable technical feat and contributed to reinforcing the reputation of the Marmolada as a major summit of alpinism.

In 1964, Armando Aste and Franco Solina opened the way of the Ideal at the Punta Ombretta of the Marmolada, thus marking a new step in the history of the climbing of this emblematic mountain of the Dolomites. They managed to climb this route in fifty-four hours and with five bivouacs, which was hailed as a remarkable technical and enduring feat. This achievement helped to reinforce the reputation of the Marmolada as a major summit of alpinism.

In 1969, Reinhold Messner achieved a variant of the Vinatzer route by directly and solo climbing the South face of the Punta Rocca of the Marmolada. This ascent was hailed as an exceptional feat of technical and endurance skill, contributing to reinforcing Messner’s reputation as a renowned alpinist and the Marmolada’s reputation as a major summit of alpinism.

Pierra Menta 2023 D4 – Last Day

March 12, 2023 by endorfeen

Pierra Menta 2023 D4 – The 37th edition of the Pierra Menta ended successfully despite a stage cancelled the day before due to unpredictable weather conditions.

The ski mountaineering race went as planned on the fourth day, but with an adapted event to adapt to the ever-changing weather conditions. Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Émily Harrop won the victory without surprise, while Boscacci and Magnini once again won the victory ahead of the Arêchois and the pair Équy and Jacquemoud.

Despite the reduced ranking and modified format, the Pierra Menta has managed to preserve its original spirit, which is essential for this great ski mountaineering race.

Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Émily Harrop dominated the competition among women by winning all the stages and finishing in 21st place in the overall ranking. Sisters Léna and Candice Bonnel finished in second place, followed by the Italians Martina Valmassoi and Elena Nicolini. No chance was left to their competitors by these two talented skiers.

Weather problems forcing some adjustments

Following the cancellation of the third stage due to difficult weather conditions, it was unclear what to expect for the last stage of the Pierra Menta. Unstable weather conditions and avalanche risks forced the organization to propose a different challenge for this stage.

Thus, a team time trial sprint over a 600 m elevation on the ski resort was organized.

The format of the last stage of the Pierra Menta was different from previous editions, with a shorter distance of 2,500 meters of positive elevation than usual. However, this format had already been used several times, including in previous prologues.

At the evening briefing before the race, the iconic Italian speaker Silvano Gadin wanted to salute the courage of the volunteers and staff in the face of difficult weather conditions, evoking his memories of a past edition of the Mezzalama. He also dedicated this Saturday’s race “to the youth”, which was originally scheduled to start on Friday. This last stage hoped to soothe the spirits, delight the young and test the legs of the runners one last time.

Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Emily Harrop dominated the Pierra Menta and became the queens of the competition

Despite the cancellation of the third stage scheduled for Friday, the fourth and final stage of the Pierra Menta took place on Saturday on a considerably reduced course, and the leaders of the provisional ranking were crowned.

Among women, French skiers Emily Harrop and Axelle Gachet-Mollaret dominated the competition without leaving any chance to their competitors.

Due to the absence of their main competitors in the World Cup, particularly the Italian teams, the female competition was not held.

Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Emily Harrop, recent world champions as a team, dominated the race from the first round, taking an 11 minute lead over their closest pursuers.

Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Emily Harrop continued their domination throughout the competition, winning each stage by a large margin, including today’s stage with a lead of more than four minutes over their pursuers, despite the reduced course of only 600 m of elevation.

Upon arrival, they won gold with an impressive lead of 31 minutes over another French duo, Léna and Candice Bonnel, and an Italian team (+ 51 minutes) composed of Martina Valmassoi and Elena Nicolini.

Xavier Gachet and William Bon Mardion did not manage to climb high enough in the general ranking

The Italians Michele Boscacci and Davide Magnini won the men’s competition at the 37th edition of the Pierra Menta, despite the hopes placed in the local skiers Xavier Gachet and William Bon Mardion, who finished in fifth place in the first stage before winning two victories over the following two days.

However, Gachet and Bon Mardion have won their fifth silver medal together. Samuel Équy and Mathéo Jacquemoud finished third consistently throughout the competition.

Once again, locals William Bon Mardion (already winners in 2013) and Xavier Gachet narrowly missed their chance to win their first Pierra Menta together.

Material problems during the first stage relegated them to five minutes behind the first team, although they were in the lead at the halfway point.

The cancellation of the third stage and the reduction of the last stage did not allow them to catch up with the very regular Italian team composed of Michele Boscacci and Davide Magnini, who respectively won their fourth and second victories during this competition.

The two skiers from L’Arêche once again took second place in this edition, just like in 2022, despite two stage wins, including the very short and stressful last event.

Another French team, ranked third overall, did not have the opportunity to fully express themselves during this 37th special edition of the Pierra Menta: Mathéo Jacquemoud (already winner of the event in 2013 and 2016) and Samuel Equy did not manage to do better than the previous year.

Results Pierra Menta 2023 D4 – Men

IT MICHELE BOSCACCI + IT DAVIDE MAGNINI – 05:40:32.0
FR XAVIER GACHET + FR WILLIAM BON MARDION – +00:02:23.0
FR SAMUEL EQUY + FR MATHÉO JACQUEMOUD – +00:02:31.0
IT NADIR MAGUET + IT MATTEO EYDALLIN – +00:04:18.0
AT JAKOB HERRMANN + CH MARTIN ANTHAMATTEN – +00:05:34.0
IT WILLIAM BOFFELLI + IT ALEX OBERBACHER – +00:18:30.0
FR ALEXIS SÉVENNEC + FR ANSELME DAMEVIN – +00:19:48.0
FR AURÉLIEN DUNAND-PALLAZ + FR JULIEN MICHELON – +00:24:50.0
FR GERMAIN GRANGIER + FR VALENTIN CLARYS – +00:30:21.0
FR SIMON BELLABOUVIER + FR NOÉ ROGIER – +00:36:31.0

Results Pierra Menta 2023 D4 – Women

FR AXELLE GACHET-MOLLARET + FR EMILY HARROP – 06:38:49.0
FR CANDICE BONNEL + FR LÉNA BONNEL – +00:31:14.0
IT MARTINA VALMASSOI + IT ELENA NICOLINI – +00:51:56.0
CA KYLEE OHLER + US REA KOLBL – +01:14:03.0
PL ANNA TYBOR + FR ELISE PONCET – +01:27:38.0
FR LAURIE RENOTON + FR PERRINE GINDRE – +01:42:32.0
FR ROMANE LAFARGE + FR SOPHIE MOLLARD – +01:51:44.0
FR MARIE CHARLOTTE IRATZOQUY + US GRACE STABERG – +02:07:19.0
DE JACQUELINE BRANDL + AT BIANCA SOMAVILLA – +02:21:00.0
IT KATRIN BIELER + FR MÉLANIE ROUSSET – +02:21:30.0

Frozen Graves: The Bodies on Mount Everest

March 11, 2023 by Phylicia Peterson

Mount Everest climbs to a staggering 29,032′ tall. It is the world’s tallest mountain…and highest graveyard. The intrepid climbers who take on Everest’s challenge do so knowing that the icy crags of the mountain may become their final resting place. It’s believed that hundreds of bodies have found their last resting place on the merciless crags and slopes of the mountain.

Why Do People Continue Climbing Everest? How Many Bodies Remain on Everest?

A man stands at Moutn Everest Basecamp. — Photo by Pulkit Pithva on Unsplash

The climbing world knows well the dangers of Mount Everest. The mountain has a zone literally known as “The Zone of Death”, and its victims have regained international renown, identified under sobriquets like Sleeping Beauty and Green Boots. But the adversities of Everest don’t deter everyone. Tourism and mass group expeditions up the mountain are only growing in popularity.

The Himalayan Database records all known expeditions to the mountain and reports that over 10,800 have occurred since 2020. The mountain is, for many, the ultimate test of mettle and skill for climbers. For others, it is the goal or dream of a lifetime. So, people keep climbing Everest, and Everest keeps collecting bodies.

The mountain has claimed over 300 climbers in recent history, and about two-thirds of that number remain on the mountain. The current estimate of remains left behind on Everest total around 200.

Why Are Dead Bodies Left on Everest?

Mount Everest Base Camp,Tibet,China. — Photo by Luo Lei on Unsplash

It’s startling for many individuals unfamiliar with Mount Everest’s death toll to discover that most dead bodies on Everest will remain forever. However, the reasons for leaving the bodies behind are purely logical.

The dangers of Everest make retrieving a body extremely difficult – sometimes impossible – and expensive. Bodies resting above Camp 2 21,000ft cannot be retrieved by helicopter. Instead, the bodies need to be carried down the mountain for retrieval. To retrieve a body takes a team of rescuers or Sherpa capable of digging out frozen bodies and bearing the extra weight of a frozen corpse down the mountain. The cost of such an expedition can climb above $70,000.

Because of the cost and extreme risk to the retrieval team, few bodies ever leave Everest. And many mountaineers prefer their bodies stay on the mountain if they pass there in the tradition taken from sailors lost at sea.

The Bodies Of Dead Climbers On Mount Everest Serve As Guideposts

Base Camp marker with Tibetan Prayer Flags.

In a tradition as macabre as it is practical, the bodies of dead mountain climbers on Mount Everest have evolved into guideposts on the trail to the summit. The corpses mark the end of a journey for mountaineers of the past but provide a consistent marker for today’s climbers as they pursue the elusive summit. Many of the bodies remain unidentified, but some of Everest’s victims, like Green Boots and Sleeping Beauty, are well-known and have grown to become the mountain’s most famous permanent residents.

Famous Bodies On Mount Everest

Tibetan Flags with Mount Everest in the background — Photo by Kalle Kortelainen on Unsplash

Green Boots – Tsewang Paljor

In 1996, Indian climber Tsewang Paljor began his ascent of Everest. He would never return from the expedition. For some time, Paljor’s body lay in a cave on the route to the summit. His corpse was recognizable because of the green boots he wore during the expedition.

In 2014, the Chinese government removed Tsewang Paljor’s body from the main trail and buried it beneath snow and rock at his family’s request.

Sleeping Beauty – Francys Arsentiev

In 1988, the couple Francys and Sergei Arsentiev ascended Everest. Francys was the first American woman to attempt the climb without oxygen. She and her husband reached the summit but never completed the return trip.

sleeping beauty mount everest dead bodies

Francys became separated from her spouse on the descent to Camp 6. Sergei returned to look for her and received news from an Uzbek group of climbers that they had found Francys and tried to help, but she could not travel.

Sergei and Francys both lost their lives on the mountain. Francys’ body became a marker known as “Sleeping Beauty.” She rests covered in an American flag with a teddy bear tucked under her arm from fellow explorer Ian Woodall. Her husband’s body went undiscovered until a year after her passing. Sergei had fallen down the mountain. Discover more of Francys’ story by clicking here.

Rob Hall – 1996 Everest Disaster

The 2015 release of the film “Everest” depicts the story and demise of mountaineer Rob Hall. He was one of the world’s most famous climbing athletes. He, alongside his close friend Gary Ball, completed the Seven Summits Challenge by climbing the world’s seven tallest mountains.

Rob Hall. Photo: Colin Monteath - mount everest bodies — Rob Hall. Photo: Colin Monteath

Hall’s adventuring came to an end with the 1996 Everest Disaster. Hall led an expedition up the mountain in early May. A series of unfortunate events led to the expedition becoming trapped during one of Everest’s violent snow storms. Rob and one of his expedition members, Doug Hansen, died during the storm. Several other climbers on separate expeditions passed in the same storm. Read more about Rob Hall’s life here.

Scott Fischer – 1996 Everest Disaster

The storm of 1996 also took the life of seasoned mountaineer Scott Fischer. During the ascent with his Mountain Madness group, Fischer successfully reached the summit. However, he began to suffer from exhaustion. Fischer sent his expedition team on ahead when the storm struck, knowing he would slow them down. Unfortunately, he lost his life during the storm.

George Mallory

George Mallory’s name is synonymous with Mount Everest. General consensus names him the first man to explore Everest. Mallory successfully climbed the mountain twice, in 1921 and again in 1921. Numerous maps and trails emerged from the expeditions, but Mallory did not reach the summit.

However, he returned in 1924, intent on summiting the mountain. He was last seen alive, leaving Camp IV on June 8. Mallory’s body went undiscovered until an expedition located it in 1999. It is unknown if he ever reached the summit. Mallory led a life of mountaineering and exploration before his demise – read more about his life here.

David Sharp

In 2006, David Sharp attempted to climb the mountain. It is thought he had successfully summited on his solo attempt. However, the matter remains unsolved. Sharp would never return to tell his story.

His body was found beside “Green Boots” in a small cave, presumably where Sharp had stopped to rest or take shelter. He died frozen in place.

Hannelore Schmatz

Exhaustion on Everest led to Hannelore Schmatz‘s death. She ascended with her husband, Gerhard, but the two split into separate groups to complete the journey. Her group successfully reached the summit, turning back after an arduous journey through harsh weather conditions.

mount everest bodies — Credit: Gerhard Schmatz

Hannelore stopped to take shelter and rest with another climber, Ray Genet. Genet did not make it through the night. Hannelore continued the descent before succumbing to exhaustion. She died only 328 ft. from Camp IV. A 1984 attempt to retrieve her body was unsuccessful; Schmatz’s remains are now lost to snow and time on the mountain.

Shriya Shah-Klorfine

Shriya Shah-Klorfine was one of the twelve climbers who died in 2012 on Everest. It was one of the mountain’s deadliest years since the 1996 disaster. Shriya successfully summited the mountain but remained too long, using up excess oxygen as she captured the moment on camera.

On the descent down, Shriya suffered from exhaustion. She passed at 26,246 ft. Her body remained on the mountain draped in a Canadian flag for a time. Her body was later retrieved to Base Camp and removed from the mountain.

Marc-Andre Leclerc, a discreet alpinist

March 10, 2023 by endorfeen

Marc-André Leclerc became a well-known personality in the world of climbing with the release of the movie The Alpinist in 2021, but it could have been very different.

Being solitary by nature, uninterested in fame and avoiding cameras, Marc-André preferred to climb from relative obscurity to an incredibly high level. He could have kept going like this.

Even when people started to take notice in 2015, Marc-André dedicated himself to climbing for his passion. Despite his prodigious talent, he was not motivated by wealth, glory, or media coverage. His lasting legacy could have as much to do with his attitude as his accomplishments. The pursuit of adventure was his priority.

Marc-Andre Leclerc – growing up

Made for the great outdoors

Marc-André Leclerc was born on October 10, 1992, in Fraser Valley, Nanaimo, BC, Canada. He is the son of Michelle Kuipers and Serge Leclerc. Diagnosed with ADHD, he had difficulty adjusting to school at the beginning of his schooling. His mother then decided to homeschool him for the majority of his elementary education.

However, these formal lessons often do not last very long as his mother regularly takes him to the mountains or forests to observe rocks and plants. These experiences deeply mark the young boy and inspire him for a long time.

Leclerc was a great reader, and from the age of four, he knew the story of the conquest of Everest by Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. “He has always been fascinated by mountains,” says Michelle Kuipers.

Due to his social difficulties, he was educated at home for part of his youth. Despite this, he was intellectually and physically precocious.

Climbing, a love story

His love story with climbing begins when his grandfather gives him Chris Bonnington’s book, “Quest for Adventure”, which deeply marks him by showing images of tiny individuals scaling imposing snow and ice walls, thus stimulating his imagination.

At the age of nine, he discovered climbing on a wall in a shopping mall. Later that same year, he regularly enrolled at Project Climbing gym in Abbotsford, British Columbia, to climb.

In 2005, Marc-Andre Leclerc’s family moved near the Cascade Mountains to Agassiz. It was there that Marc-André started climbing by biking to the Harrison Bluffs, where he spent the night. He started alone, in running shoes and without formal training. Later, with a friend, he learned to use pitons and rope systems by reading old books.

At the age of 14, he worked in construction with his father to pay for his climbing equipment. One year later, he was setting lifting rings in the beams of his basement bedroom and hanging from them with his ice axes.

At the age of 15, his mother gave him a copy of “Mountaineering: The Freedom of the Hills”, which prompted Marc-André to join the British Columbia Mountaineering Society. Quickly, he began to participate in competitions and dominate in his age category. After finishing high school, he moved to Squamish, British Columbia, considered the Canadian Mecca of climbing.

Meeting Brette Harrington

Once in Squamish, he finds his place within the marginal climbing community. For several years, he leads a dirtbag life, climbing hard routes and partying.

He even lived for a time in a stairwell, which became more welcoming after he met his girlfriend, Brette Harrington, herself an experienced free climber.

His love for his girlfriend is very strong. From the first days of their relationship, Harrington and Leclerc were inseparable. They lived together in a stairwell, in the woods, and climbed relentlessly.

“Marc is interested in intense experiences, living fully,” Harrington states concisely in the film The Alpinist. She admits she was similar and that their mutual need to live on the edge partly explains their deep affection for each other. “We were on the same wavelength in terms of intensity,” she confides.

“The ascents I have made in extreme places in bad weather have been the most meaningful experiences of my life. I love this kind of thing.”
Brette Harrington

The “Marc-Andre Leclerc” style, a very particular style of climbing, is portrayed in the film The Alpinist.

The comparison with Alex Honnold

In the same way as Alex Honnold, Marc-André Leclerc will probably be known (outside of the climbing community) for his free solo climbs and first solo ascents.

Marc-André Leclerc achieved his ascents in full solo view on routes he had never explored before. Alex Honnold, on the other hand, had practised the route he took solo on El Capitan for the movie Free Solo many times, using a rope. Leclerc, on the other hand, would arrive at the bottom of a mountain and set off into the unknown.

Nothing had been rehearsed; nothing had been equipped or prepared in advance. Alpine solo climbing on sight is the pinnacle in the complex world of climbing. There is no margin for error, no safety net – there is only you. It’s like being an archer and having to hit the target with every arrow or be executed. That’s what alpine solo climbing on sight is.

The average spectator might see Leclerc as an adrenaline junkie, a common misconception among non-climbers. In reality, adrenaline is the enemy of good climbing. If you get scared, your “reptilian” amygdala – one of the most primitive parts of your brain – takes control, relegating your cerebral cortex to second place in the decision-making process, which can lead you to do stupid things. A large part of climbing is learning to control your fear.

The best climbers turn off their fear as if they were pressing a switch.

A complete climber

By observing Marc-André climb in all seasons and in terrifying conditions, it is evident that his approach and arsenal of skills are different.

At first, he seems to take pleasure in what he does. He easily transitions from free climbing to using ice axes, even in the most difficult situations. His movements seem effortless and (almost) consequence-free. His climbing is an expression of joy. If climbing is an art, this young man was undoubtedly a great master.

He focuses on the present moment and only thinks about the adventure, which makes him ready and able to move from one environment to another. Whether it be on rock, ice or snow, Leclerc could climb it all in one ascent and in any weather.

His speciality was mountaineering, and all the skills necessary to find a new route in a frightening rock and ice wall made him an almost unequalled mountaineer.

A different perspective

Watching Marc-André climb or listening to him talk about the mountain, one can see his purity and joy shine through. As climbing continues to grow and more and more young people see it as a competitive sport in the gym, Leclerc brings a different perspective.

The Alpinist will leave you breathless with Leclerc’s exploits and daring, but unlike other great adventure films, this is not the heart of the story. It is the portrait of a young man becoming an artist. Leclerc allows us to witness an awakening – physical, intellectual and emotional – of the human spirit. Through hard work and intensity, he becomes the one he dreamed of becoming right before our eyes.

A selection from Marc-André Leclerc’s well-known Palmarès.

It is difficult to draw up a list of Leclerc’s remarkable ascents, given that he has avoided fame. We only know the exploits he has chosen to share, those witnessed by others or mentioned in climbing magazines.

In reality, it is possible that he has achieved many other paths that nobody has ever heard of. And maybe that’s how it should be.

Mont Slesse, Cascade Range – Full Solo (2015)
Direct from the Lie – Cerro Torre North Face – First Ascent (2015)
Solo ascent of the Muir Wall on El Capitan (2015)
Reverse Tower Traverse, Patagonia – First Ascent (2015)
Le Tire – bouchon – Cerro Torre, Patagonia, First Solo Ascent (2015)
Tomahawk/Exocet Link Up – Aguja Standhardt, Patagonia – Solo Integral in Sight (2015)
Mont Robson, Canadian Rockies – Infinite Patience – First Solo Ascent (2016)
Mont Tuzo, Canadian Rockies – North Face – First Ascent of the Face (2016)
Pillar East – Torre Egger, Patagonia, First Winter Solo Ascent (2016)
Ha Ling Peak, Mount Lawrence Grassi − Solo Integral (2017)
Echo Canyon − Grand Floor – First Full Solo Ascent (2017)
Rim Wall, Canadian Rockies – Pinko (5.10). First complete solo ascent (2017)
North face of the main tower, Mendenhall Towers. First Ascent (2018)

The Alpinist, an enthralling film.

The filmmakers

After the release of the documentary Free Solo, solo climbing sparked a new interest. Mortimer and Rosen realized that the story of an unknown climber achieving exceptional performances just for the sheer pleasure of it would be fascinating.

The two filmmakers considered that Marc-André Leclerc’s mysterious escalation deserved to be brought to the public’s attention.

The documentarians Nick Rosen and Peter Mortimer were already familiar with the world of climbing, having worked on several projects such as Valley Uprising, First Ascent, The Dawn Wall and the Reel Rock series.

However, even though they were immersed in the climbing community, neither of them knew Marc-André Leclerc. They had only heard about him through third-party accounts, but these accounts were enough to attest to his remarkable talent. That is how the filmmakers decided to highlight Leclerc’s story in their documentary L’Alpiniste.

The Alpinist is a captivating documentary that puts the portrait of Marc-André Leclerc in the spotlight. Although his ascents are incredibly stressful, Leclerc’s relationship with climbing is the true star of the film. The word “sport” doesn’t even seem appropriate to describe what he does.

With grace

Watching Leclerc climb The Alpinist, one cannot deny that his movements are graceful and fluid, whether it be ice, mixed, or rock climbing. There are no abrupt gestures or exaggerated stretches, nor even despair.

One can see a slow, almost lazy pace, like a modern dancer executing a complex figure. My mentor often told me that in climbing, to climb quickly, one must climb slowly. The experience gained creates confidence, and confidence creates a calm mind. A calm body is then capable of climbing in an astonishing way.

Sometimes, an athlete moves with an animal grace that most people cannot reach due to their own self-awareness. It is this quality, as well as Leclerc’s personality, that makes the most interesting aspects of this documentary.

We also see climbing sequences on rock and ice from Leclerc and Harrington, as well as commentary from famous climbers such as Honnold, Serfas, Messner and Blanchard, among others.

A tragic end.

On March 5th, 2018, Marc-André Leclerc and his partner Ryan Johnson, aged 34, succeeded in climbing a new route on the north face of the Mendenhall Towers near Juneau, Alaska.

The two climbers were dropped off near the mountain ridge on March 4th. The next day, Marc-André Leclerc posted a photo on his Instagram account showing their progress towards the 2100-meter summit.

Their plan was to return to the base camp two days later. However, authorities indicated that there had been no news of the two men since March 5th. According to their itinerary, the two climbers should have returned to Juneau the following Wednesday night, March 7th.

After Marc-André Leclerc’s girlfriend failed to contact him at the agreed time, she alerted the authorities.

The search was interrupted for several days due to bad weather conditions, but when the storm finally calmed down, the teams discovered ropes at the bottom of the climbers’ descent route, suggesting that they might have been victims of an avalanche, a rockfall or a cornice. Their bodies were never found.

Marc-André Leclerc will be known as a visionary alpinist, an adventurer, and a master of ice and rock. His life is also marked by a certain mystery. Much of his work was done alone, without an audience or camera. It is not possible to predict what his legacy will be. Leclerc climbed at a high level in all disciplines, often in extreme conditions, but he never sought recognition or fame. His passion for climbing was his main motivation.

Pierra Menta 2023 D2 – second day

March 10, 2023 by endorfeen

The runners were welcomed by the sun after the snow for the second stage of the Pierra Menta 2023. This stage included 2610 meters of positive elevation and more than 25 km in the Col de la Forclaz region.

While the competition remains uncertain in the men’s category, the French Axelle Mollaret and Émily Harrop have largely dominated the women’s category.

Pierra Menta 2023 D2 – Axelle Gachet-Mollaret & Émily Harrop in the lead

After impressing during the first stage, the exceptional women of the Pierra Menta have confirmed their reputation by taking first place again in this second stage.

The French duo does not seem worried at all. After winning the first stage with more than 11 minutes of advantage, the two Frenchwomen widened the gap during the second long stage and took a 16-minute lead over their compatriots Candice and Léna Bonnel, who were chasing them.

The two Frenchwomen, both recent world team champions, should be able to manage the end of the race and win the victory by the end of the week unless there is a major incident (they now have an advantage of nearly 27 minutes). The Italians Martina Valmassoi and Elena Nicolini currently complete the podium.

“It’s going to be a nice step, we’ll do things calmly without making any mistakes.”
Axelle Gachet-Mollaret

The Arêches duo, who won this second stage, were closely followed by the Italians.

The runners took off for the second stage of the Pierra Menta under the sun of Beaufortain at 8:00, to the traditional sound of bells, before facing each other.

The Italians Nadir Maguet and Matteo Eydallin, who were in the lead the day before, were dethroned today by the locals William Bon Mardion and Xavier Gachet, who crossed the finish line in 2h37’40”, thus winning the first place on the podium. Very efficient in the descent, Gachet and Bon Mardion were able to make use of their experience and gradually widen the gap with their pursuers.

After a disastrous first day due to major hardware problems while they were in the lead of the race, the two Arêchois, Xavier Gachet and William Bon Mardion, managed to come back to the forefront during this second stage, after a fierce struggle with the Italian team Boscacci/Magnini.

A magnificent performance for the two members of the Arêches-Beaufort club, who fought throughout this stage and managed to climb 3 places in the ranking. William Bon Mardion, already a winner in 2013, lines up for the second time alongside Xavier Gachet. Their goal is clear: to win the 37th edition of the Pierra Menta!

Thanks to this victory, they managed to move from 5th place in the provisional general ranking to 3rd place (3’04 from the head of the race), now preceded by another French team, Mathéo Jacquemoud and Samuel Equy (3rd on both stages and 2’24 from the head of the race), as well as the Italian team, Michele Boscacci and Davide Magnini, who were at the top of the general ranking after finishing 2nd on Wednesday and Thursday.

Pierra Menta 2023 D2 – Results of the Day

Ranking man

Xavier Gachet – & William Bon Mardion – 2:37:40
Michele Boscacci & Davide Magnigni – 2:37:42
Samuel Équy & Mathéo Jacquemoud – 2:39:42
Jakob Herrmann & Martin Anthamatten – 2:40:36
Nadir Maguet & Matteo Eydallin – 2:41:45
William Boffelli & Alex Oberbacher – 2:50:16
(FR) Aurélien Dunand Pallaz & Julien Michelon – 2:51:01
Alexis Sevennec & Anselme Damevin – 2:51:57
Germain Grangier & Valentin Clarys – 2:52:03
Petter Engdahl & Jonathan Albon – 2:54:13

Women’s Ranking

Axelle Mollaret & Émily Harrop – 3:04:42
Candine Bonnel & Léna Bonnel – 3:20:32
Martina Valmassoi & Elena Nicolini – 3:32:21
Kylee Ohler and Rea Kolbl – 3:38:42
Anna Tybor & Élise Poncet – 3:50:07
Laurie Renoton & Périne Gindre – 4:07:47
Marie Charlotte Iratzoquy & Grace Staberg – 4:15:16
Romane Lafarge & Sophie Mollard – 4:16:33
Katrin Bieler & Mélanie Rousset – 4:20:28
Jacqueline Brandl and Bianca Somavilla – 4:21:29

Pierra Menta 2023 D1 – Recap of the First Day of the Race

March 9, 2023 by endorfeen

At 7:30, the first stage of the 37th edition of the Pierra Menta started with 212 teams. The Pierra Menta is the most famous ski-alpinism race in the world and takes place every year in Arêches-Beaufort.

The runners started their ascent to the peaks of Legette and Grand Mont under the snow. They had to climb a cumulative positive elevation of 2,550 meters over a distance of nearly 20 kilometres.

Despite difficult weather conditions, Axelle Gachet-Mollaret, the best runner in this discipline, and her partner Emily Harrop took the lead in the ranking after the first day.

The best French runners, Samuel Équy and Mathéo Jacquemoud, currently occupy the third place in the provisional ranking.

Pierra Menta 2023 D1 – Women are honoured for this first day

It is unnecessary to introduce her. The Frenchwoman, Axelle Gachet-Mollaret is a three-time world champion of ski-alpinism. She unsurprisingly won the first stage of the Pierra Menta. On the occasion of International Women’s Day, Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Émily Harrop crossed the finish line smiling.

After winning a new world championship title on the Verticale, Axelle Gachet-Mollaret and Émily Harrop, two powerful women in the discipline, approach the Pierra Menta with great confidence. They set the pace from the start of the race with 11 minutes ahead of the Bonnel sisters. They are determined to confirm their status as favorites. Their goal is to win this 37th edition of the Pierra Menta!

“We were hoping to start off this strong. With this not-so-fun weather, anything can happen. We have a nice lead, but there are still three days of racing, two of which look like they’ll be “tough”
Axelle Gachet Mollaret

The podium taken by the Italian army, the duo Samuel Équy & Mathéo Jacquemoud just behind

For this Pierra Menta 2023 D1, the Italians have kept their commitment. They have dominated throughout the race. However, they are still under pressure from the French duo of Samuel Équy and Mathéo Jacquemoud.

Matteo Eydallin and Michele Boscacci, who won together the 2022 edition, are now adversaries. Nadir Maguet and Matteo Eydallin won the first stage in 2’25″40, followed by Davide Magnigni and Michele Boscacci in 2’27″42.

They were expected to fight for victory, and they answered present! Samuel Équy from Isère and Mathéo Jacquemoud from Haute-Savoie, who won the French team championship in February at Superdévoluy, La Belle Étoile and La Grande Trace, today secured the third place. Despite a difficult first part of the race in physically and mentally demanding conditions, the French duo held on until the end and finally finished on the third step of the podium.

Men ranking – Results Pierra Menta 2023 – D1

(ITA) Nadir Maguet & Matteo Eydallin – 2:25:40
(ITA) Michele Boscacci & Davide Magnigni – 2:27:42
(FR) Samuel Équy & Mathéo Jacquemoud – 2:28:06
(FR) Jakob Herrmann & Martin Anthamatten – 2:28:45
(FR) Xavier Gachet – & William Bon Mardion – 3:30:48
(ITA) William Boffelli & Alex Oberbacher – 2:31:41
(FR) Alexis Sevennec & Anselme Damevin – 2:33:23
(FR) Aurélien Dunand Pallaz & Julien Michelon – 2:36:01
(FR) Germain Grangier & Valentin Clarys – 2:40:16
(FR) Simon Bellabouvier & Noé Rogier – 2:41:24

Women – ranking

(FR) Axelle Mollaret & Émily Harrop – 2:54:33
(FR) Candine Bonnel & Léna Bonnel – 3:05:52
(ITA) Martina Valmassoi & Elena Nicolini – 3:12:47
(FR) Romane Lafarge & Sophie Mollard – 3:27:00
(AM) Kylee Ohler & Rea Kolbl – 3:29:04
(FR) Laurie Renoton & Périne Gindre – 3:29:08
(FR) Anna Tybor & Élise Poncet – 3:29:16
(FR) Marie Charlotte Iratzoquy & Grace Staberg – 3:43:43
(AL) Jacqueline Brandl & Bianca Somavilla – 3:47:31
(IT-FR) Katrin Bieler & Mélanie Rousset – 3:50:20