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Archives for July 2023

Everest Movie: A Cinematic Journey Through Triumph and Tragedy

July 31, 2023 by Furqan Javed

“Everest”, the cinematic marvel of 2015, is a biographical survival adventure film that meticulously recreates the harrowing events of the 1996 Mount Everest disaster. Under the directorial and production mastery of Baltasar Kormákur, with screenplay credits going to William Nicholson and Simon Beaufoy, the film takes viewers on a chilling expedition led by Rob Hall, portrayed by Jason Clarke, and Scott Fischer, brought to life by Jake Gyllenhaal. The ensemble cast, featuring stellar performances from Josh Brolin, John Hawkes, Robin Wright, Michael Kelly, Sam Worthington, Keira Knightley, Martin Henderson, and Emily Watson, breathe authenticity into this thrilling narrative. In a poignant gesture, the film is dedicated to the late British actress Natasha Richardson by Kormákur and production collaborators Universal, Walden Media, Cross Creek, and Working Title.

The film’s journey kicked off on a grand note as the opening spectacle at the 72nd Venice International Film Festival on September 2, 2015. Its theatrical release was on September 18, 2015, following its premiere in IMAX 3D in the UK on September 11. The film spread its wings internationally in various formats, including IMAX 3D, RealD 3D, and 2D, and had a limited IMAX 3D exclusive release in the United States, Canada, and 36 other countries. A wider release in the United States followed on September 25. The film’s captivating portrayal of the epic survival story was a commercial success, grossing $203 million worldwide over a $55 million budget, accompanied by a warm reception from critics.

Everest – © Universal Studios

Plot: Summit to Survival

“Everest” follows commercial expeditions at Mount Everest’s base camp in May 1996. Two main groups, Adventure Consultants, led by Rob Hall, and Mountain Madness, directed by Scott Fischer, prepare to ascend. Climbers include Beck Weathers, Doug Hansen, Yasuko Namba, and journalist Jon Krakauer, with Helen Wilton overseeing Rob’s base camp. Rob promises his pregnant wife, Jan, he’ll return home in time for their baby’s birth.

As the climb progresses, Rob becomes concerned about overcrowding on the ascent route and partners with Scott to reduce delays. They start their summit attempt from Camp IV before dawn, aiming to descend by 2:00 PM for safety. However, uninstalled guide ropes and Beck’s vision problems cause delays, and Scott drops to help another climber despite Rob’s warning about overexertion risks.

Rob reaches the summit, joined by other climbers, including Yasuko. On the descent, he meets Doug, who is struggling but insists on pressing on. Their continued ascent exceeds the safe return time, leaving Doug exhausted and sick from the altitude. Scott also suffers from high-altitude pulmonary oedema — a blizzard strikes during their descent, depleting Doug’s oxygen tank. Doug detaches from the guide rope and perishes as Rob calls for more oxygen.

Scott’s condition worsens, and he asks to be left behind. Beck, still vision-impaired, gets lost with other climbers in the blizzard. Beck and Yasuko are left behind while others descend for help. An attempt to bring Rob more oxygen ends tragically when guide Andy ‘Harold’ Harris freezes to death. Rob succumbs to the cold after notifying Helen of Doug and Andy’s deaths.

The returning climbers alert the base camp about Beck and Yasuko, but severe weather prevents rescue. Surprisingly, Beck survives and returns to camp. After a helicopter rescue, he goes home severely frostbitten. The film concludes with Helen and Beck’s emotional homecomings, the birth of Rob’s daughter Sarah, and a reminder of Everest’s unforgiving nature.

Everest – © Universal Studios

Production of the Everest Movie

Development

Baltasar Kormákur helmed the directorial role for ”Everest”, meticulously executing scripts crafted by Simon Beaufoy and Mark Medoff. Justin Isbell and William Nicholson also provided the preparatory groundwork for the hands. The film, a product of Working Title Films, commenced shooting in November 2013 under the production supervision of Tim Bevan and Eric Fellner. Although Emmett/Furla/Oasis Films initially planned to co-finance the film, they withdrew from the project in October 2013.

Overcoming a minor setback in the production schedule, Cross Creek Pictures and Walden Media entered production on November 12, 2013, providing a crucial $65 million financing. Filming started in earnest on January 13, 2014, beginning in Italy’s Ötztal Alps and later transitioning to Nepal and Iceland. Further funding came from South Tyrol’s regional film board, contributing an additional $1 million.

A star-studded ensemble began in February 2013, with Christian Bale in talks to portray Rob Hall, the leader of Adventure Consultants. However, in July, Bale exited the project and the leading roles were eventually filled by Jake Gyllenhaal, Josh Brolin, Jason Clarke, and John Hawkes. Other additions to the cast during filming included Clive Standen, Martin Henderson, Emily Watson, Thomas M. Wright, Michael Kelly, Micah Hauptman, Sam Worthington, and Robin Wright. Their diverse roles ranged from playing seasoned expedition leaders and climbers, a caring base camp figure, an author, a filmmaker and mountaineer, to the concerned wife of a climber, thereby enriching the narrative texture of ”Everest”.

Filming

The ”Everest movie” occurred across several spectacular locations, commencing on January 13, 2014, in Italy’s Ötztal Alps. Brian Oliver, the co-financier, outlined the filming process as planned in three stages—six weeks in Italy, a month in Iceland, and another month in Nepal. To prepare for their roles, mountain climbing training was provided to actors Jake Gyllenhaal and Josh Brolin in the Santa Monica Mountains. The 44-member film crew then travelled to Kathmandu, Nepal, and secured permission for filming between January 9 and 23, with the Everest shoots starting on January 13, 2014.

The actors and crew dealt with several challenges during the shoot. As English actor Clive Standen described, the freezing temperatures made on-site filming difficult yet enjoyable. They filmed exterior shots at Cinecitta Studios in Rome to mimic Everest’s base camp’s bright sunlight. On April 18, 2014, a close call with disaster occurred. An avalanche hit Camp II on Everest, where the second unit crew was present. As a result, they had to halt production for a while. This tragic event led to the loss of 16 Sherpa guides. However, the film crew remained unharmed, with no injuries or fatalities.

The production team went to Pinewood Studios in the UK. Here, they recreated Everest elements against a greenscreen for future CG effects. These elements included Hillary Step, camp 4, icefall, and the summit. Salvatore Totino, the cinematographer, utilized SoftSun lights. His goal was to imitate the intense sunlight of Everest. The team cooled part of the set to 26-28 degrees Fahrenheit for authenticity. They also introduced real snow. These conditions helped Jason Clarke to portray Rob Hall enduring freezing temperatures realistically. The team captured the entire film with Arri Alexa XT cameras in the Arriraw format. This technique significantly boosted the film’s visual attraction.

Music

The musical score for the Everest movie was the work of Dario Marianelli. This score played a crucial role in creating the film’s atmosphere. The film’s soundtrack was filled with a wide range of tunes. These tunes mirrored the diverse experiences of the climbers, starting from their time in Nepal. Their journey through a busy Nepali market was vividly depicted. The Bollywood song “Yeh ladka hai Allah” underscored this depiction. This song is from the 2001 film Kabhi Khushi Kabhie Gham.

Music also solidified the film’s period setting, with songs like Sheryl Crow’s “All I Wanna Do” symbolic of the mid-1990s when the film’s events took place. Another notable inclusion in the soundtrack was “Weather with You” by Crowded House, further diversifying the film’s sonic landscape. Varèse Sarabande officially released the rich and immersive soundtrack of the Everest movie on September 18, 2015, thereby completing the auditory journey for audiences worldwide.

Everest – © Universal Studios

Release

The movie Everest had a carefully planned release strategy, with Universal Pictures initially scheduling it for a February 27 2015, debut in the United States and Canada. However, the release date was moved to September 18, 2015, marking the film’s exclusive release in IMAX 3D. A week after, on September 25, the film had a broader theatrical release. Everest became the first Universal Pictures film released in the Dolby Vision format in Dolby Cinema in the US and Canada.

In anticipation of its wide release, the film was presented at the 2015 CineEurope on June 23, held at the Centre Convencions Internacional Barcelona. This screening took place in full 3D Dolby Atmos, providing attendees with a captivating auditory and visual experience. The film’s world premiere was notable at the 72nd Venice International Film Festival. It was unveiled on September 2 2015, in the Sala Grande at the Palazzo del Cinema.

After enjoying a successful theatrical run, the adventure film ‘Everest’ was made available for home viewing, initially through DVD, Blu-ray, and Blu-ray 3D formats, released in January 2016. Catering to the desires of adventure film enthusiasts, the thrilling expedition could now be experienced in the comfort of their homes. Further enhancing the viewing experience, Universal Studios Home Entertainment released a 4K Ultra HD Blu-ray Disc edition of the film in September 2016. This pivotal release ensured that viewers could immerse themselves in Everest’s breathtaking visuals at the apex of available quality.

The Box Office Success of Everest Movie

The film Everest achieved impressive financial success, grossing $43.4 million in North America and $159.9 million in other territories. The global earnings amounted to $203.4 million, surpassing its production budget of $55 million. Everest also broke records, securing the most extensive September worldwide IMAX opening with earnings of $7.2 million, a feat that surpassed the previous record-holder, Resident Evil: Retribution.

Ahead of its wide release on 25 September 25 the United States and Canada, Everest had a limited debut in IMAX 3D and other premium large format screens across 545 theatres on 18 September 18his strategic early release resulted in earnings of $325,000 from late-night showings, eventually making $2.3 million on its opening day. The opening weekend saw the movie ranked at number five, earning $7.6 million. Notably, this broke the record for the largest IMAX September debut.

Everest expanded to 3,006 theatres, making an additional $4 million on its broad opening day. The movie garnered $13.09 million from the opening weekend, with a substantial $3.7 million coming from IMAX screens. This pushed North American IMAX revenue to $11.5 million, a first for any September IMAX release.

Released across 65 countries, Everest opened at number one in 12 countries, grossing $28.8 million from 5,154 screens. The movie continued to expand internationally, opening strongly in several markets. It grossed $5.2 million in Russia and the CIS. The United Kingdom, Ireland, and Malta contributed $4.9 million. In Mexico, it earned $4.4 million. The United Kingdom ($16 million) and Germany ($9.3 million) were key earners for total earnings. The film’s debuts in China and Japan increased its revenues, bringing in $11.3 million and $1.4 million, respectively. Overall, the mountainous adventure film demonstrated its box-office prowess, reaching lofty heights in its global release.

Everest
Everest – © Universal Studios

Critiques and Controversies: Critical Response

In film criticism, “Everest” garnered a respectable response. Aggregator Rotten Tomatoes shows a favourable rating of 73%, drawn from 231 reviews, yielding an average score of 6.6 out of 10. The site’s consensus applauds the film’s ‘dizzying cinematography’, though it suggests the narrative covers less adventurous ground. Another notable critique aggregator, Metacritic, rates the movie at 64 out of 100 based on 39 reviews, indicating a generally favourable reception. The CinemaScore audience survey also shows approval, assigning the film an average “A” grade on its A+ to F scale.

Despite these positive reviews, Jon Krakauer, author of “Into Thin Air”, sharply criticized the movie. Krakauer pointed out fabricated details and defamation, expressing regret over Sony’s quick acquisition of the book’s rights. However, director Baltasar Kormákur refuted these critiques, claiming they didn’t use Krakauer’s first-person account as a source for the film and alleging discrepancies between Krakauer’s version and the actual events.

Decryption: Melting Ice, a Global Challenge to Overcome

July 28, 2023 by Thomas Viguier

The Glaciers in Danger: Demystifying Ice Melt and Climate Change

Glaciers in peril: Climate warming and consequences for our world

Within the remarkable phenomenon of ice melting, the rapid erosion of Arctic, Antarctic and mountain glaciers around the world has been noted in the last decades. This evolution is intrinsically associated with climate warming.

Greenhouse gas emissions lead to an increase in temperatures, resulting in an early melting of the ice, coupled with increasing difficulty for the latter to regenerate during the winter season.

A colossal volume of more than 28 trillion tonnes of ice has already disappeared in just over two decades. The consequences of this melting are multiple, ranging from the destruction of habitat for many animal species and local communities to the modification of ocean currents. In addition, the rise in sea levels increases the risk of flooding in various regions of the globe.

The commitment made at the COP21 in 2015, mainly aiming to limit climate disruption to less than 1.5°C, represents one of the essential means of fighting this alarming phenomenon of ice melting.

Decoder: Understanding the urgency and our actions to counter it

The constant dependence of humanity on nature for health, food and general well-being is putting increasing pressure on the environment, often far beyond its limits. As the fight against plastic pollution and deforestation continues, another major climate issue is manifesting at the opposite end of the globe: the relentless melting of ice.

Ice melting is, in some ways, the ultimate embodiment of climate change. It is a matter that deserves our attention to understand its implications and act to slow it down. This writing will focus on current knowledge regarding the melting of ice and ongoing initiatives to preserve as much of it as possible.

Alert at the Poles: The Accelerated Melting of Ice

The ice, both in the north and south, at sea or on land, is melting at an alarming rate, a trend confirmed by researchers using satellite data collected since 1995.

Tanezrouft Basin, Algeria - USGS on Unsplash
Tanezrouft Basin, Algeria – USGS on Unsplash

Researchers from the University of Leeds, in the UK, have made a first by using satellite data to study global ice melt. Their research covers 215,000 mountain glaciers, ice caps, the ice shelves surrounding Antarctica and sea ice. The results of their study are far from comforting. Between 1995 and 2017, the Earth lost 28 trillion tonnes of ice or 28 x 1015 tonnes. The rate of this melt has accelerated considerably, from 0.8 trillion tonnes per year in the 1990s to 1.3 trillion in 2017.

The fastest melting zones are the Greenland and Antarctic ice caps. “In these regions, we are following the worst-case scenario of climate change defined by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC),” said Thomas Slater, lead author of the study, in a statement from the University of Leeds.

Glaciers in peril: Understanding their role in the face of climate change

The term “melting of ice” refers to the rapid acceleration of the disappearance of glaciers, a phenomenon observed mainly since the beginning of the industrial era. This acceleration is not a natural event but is rather the consequence of human activity, which causes the warming of the Earth’s surface.

Due to climate change, ice is now melting three times faster than before and struggling to regenerate during the winter. Research indicates that an impressive total of over 28,000 tonnes of ice has disappeared since 1994. Even more concerning is the fact that the rate of ice melting has increased by 65% in 30 years, from 800 billion tonnes per year in the 1990s to 1,300 billion in 2017.

In short, talking about ice melting is akin to describing a vicious cycle: human industrial activity generates significant greenhouse gas emissions, which warm the planet. This warming causes ice to melt, releasing methane formerly trapped in permafrost. Meanwhile, melting ice warms the oceans, contributing to an increase in greenhouse gases.

The critical role of glaciers in climate regulation

Ice plays a crucial role as a climate regulator. It has the ability to reflect 80% of direct sunlight back into space. However, when ice melts, it exposes the surface of the oceans, which, in turn, absorb 90% of the sunlight and 25% of the CO2.

The melting of ice also triggers the emission of methane into the atmosphere, which further exacerbates climate change. It is thus a vicious circle where the melting of ice exposes darker surfaces which absorb more heat, thus accelerating climate warming, which in turn further promotes the melting of ice.

The Alarming Thaw: A Look at the Arctic and Antarctic

The Arctic meltdown: rapid ice melt

The Arctic, located at the North Pole, is an ocean surrounded by land, which serves as a habitat for the polar bear. The region plays a fundamental role as a climate moderator, facilitating the circulation of ocean currents that move warm and cold waters across the globe.

Polar Bears, © NOAA on Unsplash
Polar Bears, © NOAA on Unsplash

Typically, the Arctic ice sheet extends across the entire ocean and adjacent seas in winter before shrinking and retracting in spring. However, this natural cycle is threatened by climate change, which reduces the surface area of the ice in winter and faster melting in spring.

During the 2007-2020 period, Arctic ice levels reached their lowest ever recorded in the 42 years of satellite recording history. The melting season is starting earlier than expected, and 13% of the ice is lost each decade. According to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC), the Arctic ice is warming up twice as fast as the rest of the world. At this rate, it could almost disappear some summers from 2050 onwards.

Further north, the Greenland ice cap, the second largest mass of ice after Antarctica, is at a point of no return. In 2019, it lost 532 billion tonnes of ice, which is equivalent to the disappearance of six Olympic-sized ice pools every second.

The Antarctic on Alert: The Devastating Impact of Climate Change

Located at the South Pole, Antarctica is a continent surrounded by oceans, where the ice is generally thinner. It is the home of penguins. Antarctica is essential for the planet as it holds 90% of the Earth’s ice and 70% of the world’s frozen freshwater reserves.

According to the World Meteorological Organisation, the west coast of the Antarctic Peninsula has been one of the regions of the globe that has warmed the most over the last 50 years, with temperatures increasing by 3°C. Furthermore, for the first time, temperatures approaching 20°C have been recorded in the region in recent years. During the 1980s, Antarctica was losing around 40 billion tonnes of ice per year, a figure that has risen to 252 billion tonnes per year between 2009 and 2017.

This warming is not limited to land but also affects the oceans, whose temperature has increased by 1°C since 1995. It has been shown that the Antarctic polar current is warming faster than the rest of the ocean, testifying to the urgency of the problem.

Anthropogenic and Natural Factors Accelerating Ice Melt

Effect of industries and transport on accelerating ice melt

Through industry and transport, the emission of greenhouse gases has reached record levels in recent years. These gases tend to concentrate at the poles of the planet, and the melting of ice releases methane, a gas that contributes to the greenhouse effect.

As the amount of ice decreases, its ability to reflect sunlight decreases proportionally, leading to increased warming of the oceans. This phenomenon contributes to the warming of the ice in contact with these increasingly warm waters. Thus, Arctic waters have seen a temperature increase of 2.5 degrees since 1970, which further accelerates the melting of the ice.

Impact of Oil and gas Extraction on ice melting

Oil and gas extraction operations are also a major source of methane emissions, the main component of natural gas. Methane is particularly damaging to the environment, surpassing even carbon dioxide in terms of its impact on global warming.

Whilst carbon dioxide is generally considered the main greenhouse gas, methane has a 25 times greater global warming potential. This means that, even in lesser quantities, methane has a disproportionate effect on the planet’s warming, contributing to the acceleration of ice melting. It is, therefore, essential to consider the impact of oil and gas extraction on the release of methane when discussing the causes of ice melting.

Role of Deforestation in Accelerating Ice Melt

Deforestation significantly contributes to the melting of glaciers by reducing the number of trees capable of regulating temperatures. This practice loses thousands of these natural temperature regulators each year. Industries often resort to slash-and-burn agriculture, a method that involves clearing land by fire, generating huge fires whose toxic fumes reinforce the greenhouse effect.

Fires, Australia - © Matt Palmer on Unsplash
Fires, Australia – © Matt Palmer on Unsplash

These fires lead to the warming of the atmosphere and make the air drier, which promotes forest fires. These in turn contribute to climate change. For example, in Tanzania, deforestation has led to a drying up around Kilimanjaro, significantly reducing the snowfall. As a result, the glaciers in the region are retreating, and according to some estimates, they could have completely disappeared by 2030.

Impact of Icebreakers on the Increase of Arctic Ice Melt

During the summer months, icebreakers navigate towards the north of the Arctic Ocean. Their passage leaves behind trails of open water, which do not reflect the sun’s rays as efficiently as ice, thus contributing to the warming of these areas.

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Icebreaker – © NOAA

Furthermore, recent years have been characterised by unusual anticyclonic conditions that have dispersed the clouds, allowing for greater sun penetration and hindering snow formation. More than half of the ice loss in Greenland in 2019 is attributable to this phenomenon. These conditions, combined with the impact of icebreaker ships, exacerbate the melting of ice in the Arctic Ocean.

The Melting of Ice: A Panoramic View of Environmental and Human Impacts

The melting of ice is, therefore, a direct consequence of climate change, accelerated by human activity. The consequences are multiple and already tangible:

Climate threats: Impact of melting ice on vulnerable populations

The melting of ice is causing a rise in water levels which could flood certain regions, thus causing the displacement of millions of people following natural disasters. This is a phenomenon already observed in certain parts of the world, such as the Maghreb in Africa and Bangladesh in Asia.

In these regions, the consequences of climate change are alarmingly manifesting. Water scarcity, desertification and famine are just some of the challenges these populations have to face. This situation highlights the crucial importance of fighting against the melting of glaciers, not only to preserve the natural environment but also to protect the most vulnerable populations against these climate upheavals.

Deregulation of permafrost: A catalyst for climate warming

The permafrost, a layer of soil that remains frozen permanently in the northeast hemisphere, acts as a barrier holding carbon in the form of decomposing plants and animals under the ice. However, with climate change, this layer of soil is beginning to melt.

The thawing of permafrost leads to the release of methane, carbon dioxide and bacteria into the atmosphere. This release of greenhouse gases further reinforces climate warming, which in turn accelerates the melting of ice. This phenomenon triggers a vicious circle of warming and melting, exacerbating the impact of climate change.

Dramatic consequences of the rise in sea levels due to melting ice

One of the major impacts of melting ice is the rise in sea level, which is potentially responsible for future flooding and the submergence of many cities. The 20th century saw the sea level rise by about 1.4 millimetres per year, a rate which has since doubled to reach 3.6 millimetres per year today. With a rise of just a few tens of centimetres, iconic cities like New York, Tokyo, Shanghai, or even entire regions like Florida, could find themselves underwater.

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Floods Nigeria – © Francis Odeyemi on Unsplash

In the most extreme scenarios, a total melting of the ice in Greenland and Antarctica could cause a rise in sea level of around 70 metres. This rise could make many regions of the world uninhabitable and cause the submergence of coastal cities like New York, Tokyo and Shanghai. By the end of the century, a rise in sea level of just 17 centimetres could already affect nearly 400 million people.

This phenomenon of sea level rise is, however multifaceted. In addition to ice melting, global warming leads to an increase in the volume of the seas, a process called thermal expansion. Furthermore, the seas and oceans are becoming increasingly acidic and losing their oxygen content, leading to the spread of dead zones with catastrophic consequences for fishing and marine ecosystems, such as corals.

If a complete disappearance of the ice, which covers over five million cubic kilometres on the planet, could take around 5000 years, changes to coastlines and contours of inland seas could occur much sooner.

In the current context of rising waters, considerable transformations are expected for all continents: North America would lose its Atlantic coast and Florida; in South America, the Amazon basin and the Paraguay River basin would open up to the Atlantic; Africa would be relatively preserved, with the exception of Egypt; in Europe, London, Venice, the Netherlands and a large part of Denmark would be submerged; in Asia, China, Japan, Bangladesh and coastal India would be flooded; and in Australia, the continent, mostly desert, would lose a large part of its coastal strip where currently four out of five Australians live.

Effects of Ice Melting on Marine Current Dynamics

The melting of ice, warming the waters and mixing large amounts of fresh water with salt water cause a change in the ocean currents. These currents, warm on the surface and cold at depth, traverse the entire globe. They play a crucial role in transporting nutrients and regulating the climate, redistributing solar energy evenly. For example, the Gulf Stream brings the heat from the tropics to Europe, allowing for a mild climate there.

The rise in temperatures alters the role of currents, such as the AMOC (Atlantic Meridional Overturning Circulation). This allows warm water to move northwards, then takes cold water down deep towards the south.

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© Francisco Kemeny

The slowing of deep ocean currents, caused by the melting of Antarctic ice, is happening earlier than expected. According to a new study, this phenomenon is occurring decades earlier than expected, putting marine life at risk and potentially accelerating climate change.

For a long time, scientists have warned that an acceleration of Antarctic ice melting and rising temperatures caused by human-made greenhouse gas emissions should have a notable effect on the global network of ocean currents, which transport nutrients, oxygen and carbon.

A previous study, based on computer models, had suggested that water circulation in the deepest parts of the oceans would slow by 40% by 2050 if emissions remained high. However, a more recent study published in Nature Climate Change, mainly based on observational data collected by hundreds of scientists over decades, indicates that this process has already slowed by 30% between the 1990s and 2010.

Kathryn Gunn, from the Australian scientific agency CSIRO and the British University of Southampton, the main author of the study, highlighted that these data show that the impacts of climate change are further advanced than expected. This acceleration is worrying, but the timing is even more so, she highlighted.

Global climate repercussions of melting ice

The melting of the ice also has important consequences on the climate on a global scale. We are already seeing a weakening of ocean currents which translates into significant climatic changes. We can expect higher temperatures in Central America and lower temperatures in Western Europe. Furthermore, marine heat waves could become more devastating for ecosystems. Winters would become more extreme and natural disasters more frequent.

These climate changes are already forcing many people to flee their lands, particularly in Asia and the Pacific Islands. It is estimated that by 2050, our world could be populated by 140 million climate refugees.

In parallel, the weather conditions are becoming increasingly uncertain and extreme. Heavy rains, droughts, fires, and tornadoes are now common phenomena. As proof, 2021 has been particularly marked by serious climate events: fires in Greece, Turkey and California, heavy rains and floods in China and Belgium, to name but a few. These events highlight the urgency of the situation and the need to act to combat the melting of the ice and global warming.

Impacts of Ice Melting on Wildlife and Ecosystems

The acceleration of ice melting has devastating consequences for wildlife. This phenomenon threatens many species, upsets natural cycles, and gradually disappears certain habitats. For example, in Antarctica, the penguin population is at risk of having no place to live, replaced by colonization of plants as the climate warms.

Closer to our lands, the ice floe is thinning, reducing the vital space for the local fauna. Already, we observe an increased verdure in the Arctic regions, pushing many species to migrate to new territories. This forced migration leads to increased competition between the local species and the newcomers, including human beings. The polar bear, for example, sees its hunting ground reduced each year, leading to a significant decrease in its population. This situation puts other species at risk, such as the ivory gull, whose diet is closely linked to that of this ursid.

If this trend continues, Emperor penguin colonies could lose up to 93% of their numbers by the end of the century due to the fragmentation of the ice. This phenomenon also affects the indigenous populations who depend on the ice for their movements, hunting and mooring of their boats. For example, in recent years, the too-thin ice around the Bering Sea between Russia and Alaska has regularly prevented the landing of supply planes for the populations.

In the oceans, the rise in water levels disrupts the penetration of sunlight, threatening the photosynthesis process of coral reefs and the survival of fish species that depend on these ecosystems for their food. These transformations highlight the urgent need to take measures to combat the melting of ice and preserve our planet’s biodiversity.

Ice source: Threat to global freshwater reserves

Global warming is hurting the majority of glaciers, including those nestled in the highest altitude valleys. Their rapid melting not only contributes to rising water levels but also to a drastic reduction in the planet’s freshwater reserves. For example, the glaciers of the Himalayas play an essential role for nearly two billion people, providing the water necessary for their consumption, food and energy production. This situation is all the more worrying as hydroelectric power is seen as a major alternative energy source for the future.

It is essential to note that Antarctica holds 70% of the planet’s freshwater reserves. However, with increasing glacial melting, these precious freshwater reserves are diluted in the salty waters of the oceans, significantly reducing global reserves. Thus, the disruption of glaciers caused by climate change is seriously endangering freshwater resources, increasing pressure on an already vital element for the survival of humanity and many species.

Source of Ice: Amplification of the Greenhouse Effect

The greenhouse effect, which is a major driver of ice melting, is likely to worsen further.

The warming and melting of seas, ice and permafrost worldwide are releasing harmful chemicals and carbon dioxide once locked away. Furthermore, some projections estimate that melting these permanently frozen soils could release several hundred gigatonnes of carbon into the atmosphere by 2100.

This makes the situation even more worrying, as the increased release of these greenhouse gases could fuel a self-amplifying cycle of climate warming, where the melting of ice and global warming feed off each other in a potentially destructive loop.

Climate Tipping Points Les Points de Bascule du Climat

Undeniably, solutions to tackle the melting of ice must stem from a concerted global effort and be implemented quickly. The fight against this phenomenon will necessarily be gradual, despite large-scale initiatives. It will take centuries to reverse the trend and stop the loss of ice. Technologies aimed at extracting carbon from the atmosphere are still in their infancy.

Nevertheless, there is still time to preserve around a third of the current glacial mass by the end of the century by investing in more resilient and decarbonised societies. The urgency is undeniable.

Several studies already mention the existence of nine “tipping points” in Antarctica. These are areas of extreme fragility which, once destabilised, may never return to their initial state, even if the factors of climate change were eliminated. This could cause a series of cascading natural events, such as accelerated ice melting and a sudden rise in sea levels.

With an increase in temperatures of 3°C, the level of the oceans could rise by 5 millimetres per year, resulting in a total rise of 1.5 metres around 2300. This is a much more worrying scenario than that envisaged in the 70s, where some climatologists estimated that a rise of 2°C would have little effect on the ice.

Since then, knowledge has evolved, but many data remain unknown. Research is underway to better understand the interactions between ice and the ocean. These efforts require an unprecedented mobilization to consider effective and sustainable solutions.

Act Against Ice Melting: Global Responsibilities and Individual Initiatives

The answer to a global phenomenon like melting ice can be found at the international level. It is imperative that governments and industries take responsibility and implement the recommendations of the IPCC, including keeping the increase in temperatures well below 1.5 to 2°C.

The study of ice melting remains complex due to the scarcity of data collected in isolated and inhospitable regions of the globe. Although forecasts exist, a large degree of uncertainty remains.

To counter this threat, various innovative ideas are under study among researchers, such as the use of snow cannons to stabilise glaciers, the construction of underwater walls to reduce contact between ice and warm waters, or even the pumping of CO2 from surface waters to be released into deeper waters. Despite their potential, these proposals raise questions about their energy impact.

At an individual level, pursuing our personal commitments and adopting environmentally-friendly daily practices can also contribute to the cause. This involves conscious and respectful energy consumption, responsible waste management, sustainable eating, using eco-friendly modes of transport, etc.

Regarding international discussions, the Conferences of the Parties, initiated in 1995, have provided a privileged platform for countries seeking to implement global climate solutions. It was at one of these conferences, in 2015, that 200 countries signed the Paris Climate Agreement, which aims to keep global warming well below 2°C by 2050. These goals have recently been strengthened in light of current forecasts, which suggest a rise in temperatures of around 3°C.

Innovations to Combat Ice Melt: Initiatives and Challenges

Whilst achieving the goals of the Paris Agreement appears increasingly difficult, innovative initiatives are being considered to mitigate the effects of climate change. Among the ideas proposed by researchers, the use of snow cannons is being considered to stabilise glaciers. Projects to build underwater walls are also under study in order to limit the contact between ice and warm waters.

Some even propose to recreate ice blocks from the water coming from melting glaciers, while others are considering pumping the CO2 present in surface waters to release it into deeper waters. These projects, as intriguing as they may be, nevertheless raise important questions, particularly regarding their energy consumption and their impact on biodiversity. These challenges highlight the complexity of the fight against the melting of glaciers and the urgency of coordinated action at the global level.

EU and France Climate Goals: Towards Carbon Neutrality

The fight against melting ice is intrinsically linked to the battle against rising temperatures. The European Union has expressed its ambition to become a global leader in the fight against climate change. In 2014, the EU approved a Climate and Energy Action Plan for the 2021-2030 period. This plan presents several ambitious goals, including a reduction of at least 40% of greenhouse gas emissions by 2030, compared to 1990 levels.

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European Parliament, Strasbourg – © Frederic Köberl

This ambitious plan requires a multi-sectoral approach, including the introduction of stricter emission limits for vehicles, the promotion of eco-friendly modes of transport and the revision of traditional industrial models. Particular attention should also be paid to combating deforestation, which is responsible for around one-fifth of human-caused greenhouse gas emissions. The ultimate goal is to achieve climate neutrality by 2050.

At the national level, France has committed to fighting climate change through the Grenelle de l’Environnement in 2007 and the law relating to the energy transition in 2015. These initiatives aim to reduce greenhouse gas emissions and to encourage the use of renewable energies.

Renewable Energies: Essential Weapon against Ice Melt

In the fight against climate change and melting ice, renewable energy plays a key role. Solar panels, wind turbines, geothermal energy and hydroelectricity, are viable alternatives that are becoming increasingly widespread. These innovative technologies aim to increase dependence on electricity while gradually moving away from the combustion of fossil fuels.

These are these sources of sustainable energy that offer hope of a significant reduction in greenhouse gas emissions, thus helping to slow down the melting of ice and the warming of the planet.

Reforestation: A Green Solution Against Ice Melt

Forests are a vital bulwark against climate change, playing a crucial role in mitigating the melting of ice. However, their degradation and destruction increase the problem, releasing large amounts of carbon dioxide into the atmosphere.

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Reforestation Project in Brazil – © Café Gato-Mourisco

In contrast, the development of new forests could help to balance this rise in carbon dioxide. Indeed, through photosynthesis, forests absorb CO2 and emit oxygen, thus contributing to the reduction of greenhouse gases and stabilising the global climate.

The Sierre-Zinal Race

July 22, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Renowned as an embodiment of endurance and spectacle in the Valais Alps, the Sierre-Zinal race carves a challenging 31-kilometre path through some of Switzerland’s most spectacular alpine landscapes. Held annually on the second Sunday of August, the race traverses the eastern slope of the Val d’Anniviers, weaving a trail from the vibrant town of Sierre to the rustic charm of Zinal village. People endearingly nickname the event “the Five 4000 Race”. This pays tribute to the quintet of awe-inspiring peaks – Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, Ober Gabelhorn, Matterhorn, and Dent Blanche.

Each peak towers above 4,000 meters and is visible from the race route. This esteemed mountain race, a fixture in the alpine running calendar since its inception in 1974, captivates participants and onlookers with its harmonious blend of physical challenge and natural grandeur.

© Patrick Zufferey / Sierra Zinal

The Turbulent and Triumphal History of the Sierre-Zinal Race

Rise of the Sierre-Zinal Race: From Obscurity to International Acclaim

Jean-Claude Pont introduced the Sierre-Zinal Race in the early 1970s to fill the lack of mountain races in Switzerland. The race covered a 31-kilometre route from Sierre to Zinal through Val d’Anniviers. Both men and women could participate, with a special “Tourists” category for popular athletes. Despite scepticism, the first race was successful, with 422 finishers led by Edi Hauser.

In 1975, Noël Tamini of Spiridon magazine and Pont established the International Mountain Cup (CIME). The Sierre-Zinal Race was instantly added to the calendar. Both the Sierre-Zinal and the Sierre-Montana races were considered top-tier, signifying their international recognition. In 1979, the CIME introduced a “Super” category for difficult races, and Sierre-Zinal was among the first to earn this distinction.

The 2002 race was shortened due to severe weather and was won by Jonathan Wyatt. Wyatt returned the following year to win the full course, setting a record of 2 hours, 29 minutes, and 12 seconds. That year, the race also started appearing sporadically on the Skyrunner World Series calendar.

Triumphs, Trials, and Transitions: The World Long Distance Mountain Running Challenge Journey

The 2004 race hosted the inaugural World Long Distance Mountain Running Challenge, and the first titles went to Ricardo Mejía and Angéline Joly. Both Joly and Anna Pichrtová, in 2008, would later surpass Angela Mudge’s 2001 women’s record of under 3 hours, with Pichrtová setting a new record of 2 hours, 54 minutes, and 26 seconds.

The race faced its share of controversy, with doping incidents disqualifying Eritrean Petro Mamu from his fourth-place finish in 2017 and 2022 initial winners Mark Kangogo and Esther Chesang. The 2018 edition saw the race join the Mountain Running World Cup and Golden Trail World Series calendars, solidifying its place in the international racing landscape.

The Covid-19 pandemic in 2020 forced a change in the Sierre-Zinal race schedule. Organizers moved the race from its original August slot to September. Health measures also led to a shift to a month-long format with flexible start times. During this period, Kílian Jornet and Maude Mathys defended their titles. Jornet won again in 2022 after officials disqualified Kangogo because of doping. They declared Mathys the winner following Chesang’s subsequent suspension. The race continues to be a cornerstone of mountain racing history with its trials and triumphs.

The Spirited Journey of the Sierre-Zinal Race

© Jean-Noel-Theytaz / Sierra Zinal

The Sierre-Zinal Race, conceived by Jean-Claude Pont, is a testament to the spirit of racing. It hails the virtues of physical effort and the joy of using one’s body in a challenging yet rewarding endeavour. Its raison d’être extends beyond just the thrill of the competition; it also aims to acquaint participants with the striking landscapes of Anniviers in the Valais Alps.

Affectionately referred to as the “Course des Cinq 4000”, Sierre-Zinal provides a stunning visual treat to the participants. Along their journey, racers are graced with the sight of five peaks soaring above 4,000 m in altitude. These peaks include the majestic Weisshorn, Zinalrothorn, Obergabelhorn, Matterhorn, and Dent Blanche, each remarkable in its towering stature.

A unique aspect of this trail is its bifurcation into two categories: “tourists” and “runners”. Tourists seek the thrill of the race without a fixation on time. Runners, on the other hand, are high-level competitors striving for top ranks. Final classifications are reserved exclusively for runners, adding a competitive edge to this category.

Today, the Sierre-Zinal Race is celebrated globally, drawing many supporters every year. Throngs of fans line the race paths, encouraging all runners, regardless of their level. The crowd’s warmth and camaraderie among the competitors underscore the enduring spirit of racing on this challenging yet picturesque course.

The Record-Breaking Ambassador of the Sierre-Zinal Race

Kilian Jornet, the acclaimed Spanish athlete, has been instrumental in elevating the profile of the Sierre-Zinal Race. This mountain race’s popularity has grown significantly due to his impressive achievements between 2009 and 2021. Although, With nine victories under his belt, Jornet holds a record, surpassing the five-time Mexican winner Ricardo Mejia, who reigned between 1998 and 2005.

Kilian Jornet, Sierre-Zinal – © Christian David, Wiki Commons

In the women’s category, Czech racer Anna Pichtrova leads with four consecutive wins from 2006 to 2009. British runner Veronique Marot and Swiss competitors Isabella Crettenan-Moretti and Maude Mathys have triumphed thrice in the Sierre-Zinal Race.

Interestingly, runners established both the men’s and women’s event records in 2019. Kilian Jornet set a record time for the men, completing the race in 2 hours, 25 minutes, and 35 seconds. Meanwhile, Maude Mathys registered the women’s record, crossing the finish line in 2 hours, 49 minutes, and 20 seconds. These extraordinary feats underscore the race’s competitive spirit, with Jornet serving as a captivating ambassador for the thrilling world of mountain racing.

The Journey Through the Sierre-Zinal Race

© Patrick Zufferey / Sierra Zinal

The Sierre-Zinal Race happens in the scenic beauty of Switzerland. This 31-kilometre race requires endurance and courage. The race begins in Sierre, a town at an elevation of 570 meters. It ends in Zinal, a tranquil village situated at 1,680 meters above sea level.

The course for the race includes a considerable climb of 2,200 meters. The racers also need to descend by 1,100 meters. This adds an exciting challenge for the participants. The race includes climbing Nava, the highest point at 2,425 meters. This climb presents both a physical challenge and stunning views. The beauty makes the exertion worthwhile.

The Sierre-Zinal Race in Switzerland categorizes participants as “tourists” or “runners”. The race starts in phases, with tourists starting between 4:45 a.m. and 5:25 a.m. and runners between 10:00 a.m. and 10:10 a.m., all based on bib numbers. The runners’ group is classified by age and sex, unlike the tourists.

The race starts from the base of Val d’Anniviers road, climbing eight kilometres to Ponchette pasture, followed by a rolling section and descent to Chandolin. The route then stretches ten kilometres to Nava, offering a view of five peaks above 4,000 meters.

After Nava, the race descends to Barneuza, with the last aid station. The final part is a challenging three-kilometre descent to the finish line in Zinal. A festival at Zinal announces the results and prize distribution. The race is a blend of physical challenge and natural beauty.

Key Characteristics

AspectDescription
Distance31 kilometres
Elevation2,200 m ascent, 1,100 m descent
DepartureSierre (570 m)
ArrivalZinal (1,680 m)
Highest PointNava (2,425 m)

The Leadership Journey of the Sierre-Zinal Race

The Sierre-Zinal race has seen a change in leadership over the years. Despite this, it has maintained a deep connection to its rich past. The race was founded by Jean-Claude Pont in 1974. He also served as its first race director.In 2014, Pont handed the baton to Tarcis Ançay. Ançay is a former champion of the race. However, Ançay’s time as director was brief. It lasted only six months.

In 2015, Vincent Theytaz took over. Theytaz assumed the crucial role of leading this iconic event. The committed leadership throughout the years has been significant. It has preserved the race’s allure. Furthermore, it has ensured the race’s position in the international mountain racing circuit’s history.

A Deep Dive into the Pros and Cons of Modal Fabric

July 21, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Embark on an explorative journey through the modal fabric, a textile that seamlessly blends comfort, style, and sustainability. This semi-synthetic, bio-based material hailing from the cellulose of beech trees has carved out a niche in the textile industry with its unique blend of rayon’s coveted traits and cotton’s unrivalled breathability. However, the narrative of modal fabric isn’t just about comfort and aesthetics; it’s also a tale of environmental considerations, production challenges, and intriguing historical roots.

Unveiling Modal Fabric

Modal fabric, a semi-synthetic and bio-based textile, offers a comforting experience under the harsh sun. Derived from the cellulose of beech trees, it combines the qualities of rayon with breathability that matches cotton, making it a popular choice for summer use.

Beyond clothing, it finds use in various household items, reflecting its rising popularity. It is a high wet modulus rayon, outperforming standard viscose in strength, breathability, and eco-friendliness. It’s extensively utilized in activewear, pyjamas, undergarments, bed sheets, and bath towels, courtesy of its soft, breathable nature.

Originally designed for industrial applications, modal fabric transitioned into a wear-resistant, fade-resistant, breathable, and soft material suitable for clothing, furnishings, bedding, and more as research evolved. Known as an eco-fabric, it’s considered a second-generation viscose rayon fibre, becoming a favourite in sportswear. Despite its higher cost than traditional materials like viscose and cotton, many clothing brands also recognise it as a sustainable luxury textile.

Born in Japan in 1951, modal fabric production has been dominated by the Austrian company Lenzing Fibers since 1964. They revolutionized the bleaching process of wood pulp, promoting eco-friendliness, enhancing their reputation, and fuelling the global demand for their fabric.

The sustainability of modal fabric is intricate. Despite being derived from natural resources and fully biodegradable, its production requires a chemical-intensive process, posing environmental and worker safety concerns. Thus, the sustainability of modal fabric lies in balancing its natural roots with mindful production practices.

Modal Fabric
Modal Fabric – © Mel Poole, Unsplash

Modal fabric, praised for its comfort and breathability, also grapples with issues related to allergic reactions, durability, sustainability, and environmental impact. This unique material indeed presents a compelling blend of pros and cons.

Pros:

Eco-Friendly Efficiency

A notable advantage of modal fabric lies in its eco-friendliness and efficient yield. Specifically, the beech trees used in producing Lenzing modal fabric, cultivated using sustainable practices, offer a fibre yield per acre ten times higher than typical cotton. Furthermore, these trees require significantly less water, as cotton production demands up to 20 times more water for a comparable yield.

Moreover, the modal fabric is an environmentally friendly alternative to other rayon fibres, such as viscose, due to its lower chemical usage and origin from regenerative plants. When manufactured with environmental consciousness, the extraction process of cellulose fibres for modal fabric leads to lesser toxic waste, underlining its position as a more sustaiModal fabric option.

Water-Wise and Biodegradable

Modal fabric presents an array of benefits that contribute to its eco-friendly credentials. Notably, this fabric significantly reduces water usage throughout its lifecycle. For instance, in its everyday application, Modal does not require whitening agents or fabric softeners during laundry, and it’s well-suited to shorter washing cycles. Consequently, households can save water and energy whenever they launder modal-based clothing.

Modal fabric is highly water-absorbent. This quality makes it an excellent choice for activewear and underwear. It also promotes colourfastness in dyed garments. This is due to its exceptional dye-absorbing ability. Modal fabric is also biodegradable. It can decompose, reducing landfill pollution. This enhances its environmental sustainability.

Silky Softness and Comfort

Exuding a silky smooth texture, the modal fabric is renowned for its softness that rivals even the finest satin or silk sheets, offering unparalleled comfort in the textile world. Its distinctive smoothness and natural softness make wearing modal-based garments an exquisite experience, enhancing comfort across various conditions. Gentle washing and mild detergents are recommended to maintain their delicate nature, avoiding the scratchiness often associated with wool or certain cotton types.

In addition, modal fabric boasts breathability and stretchiness, further elevating its appeal. The fabric has a gentle touch as it is breathable and stretchable. These qualities make clothing made from modal kind to the skin. This makes it an excellent choice for everyday attire and sportswear. These notable characteristics set this fabric apart in textiles.

Exceptional Absorbency and Breathability

Among the many advantages of modal fabric, its exceptional absorbency stands out. Modal can increase the absorption rate by up to 50% by outperforming the traditionally preferred cotton. This means less discomfort from clammy clothing after a day of sweat-inducing activities, ensuring dryness and comfort. This attribute mainly benefits active children, keeping them more at ease during play. Originating from beechwood pulp, the modal fabric also brings inherent breathability, adding to its impressive list of benefits and making it an ideal choice for outdoor apparel and activities.

Transformative Properties and Versatility

Modal fabric transforms other materials into unique properties, often blended with textiles. This semi-synthetic fibre is ideal for hygiene-related products and medical items, thanks to its high absorbency rate, further enhancing its functionality. A blend with cotton capitalizes on the Modal’s resonance to shrinkage, imbuing the resulting material with added strength. Furthermore, modal fabric fortifies its stretchable attributes when paired with lycra or spandex, offering superior flexibility and resilience. These composite fabrics harness the benefits of Modal, contributing to a range of durable and high-performing products.

Wrinkle Management and Care

While boasting many advantageous properties, the modal fabric can occasionally wrinkle excessively post-wash, even with careful hand-cleaning. The nature of its weave and construction can lead to bunching, leaving behind creases. However, this issue can be mitigated with careful ironing. IrModal on the reverse side of the material is recommended to prevent unnecessary shining, taking extra care to avoid scorching the fibres. Placing a cloth between the modal fabric and the iron can prevent damage. Users should note that it cannot be restored once the Modal is scorched from excess heat, underscoring the importance of cautious maintenance.

Vibrant Colors and Excellent Dyeing

Modal fabric’s properties extend to its superior dyeing abilities. Its natural absorbency facilitates excellent dye uptake, creating vibrant colours that hold steadfastly without significant bleeding. Whether woven or knit, modal fabric drapes well and exhibits a smooth, lustrous finish. Despite its exceptional colour retention, washing modal fabric items with similar colours is advisable. This is not due to its propensity to bleed but its capacity to absorb other colours. Its high absorbency could cause it to pick up dyes released by other items during the washing cycle. Thus, care should be taken during laundry procedures.

Competitive Pricing

While the allure of Modal fabric and its MicroModal variant is undeniable, it’s important to take note of their financial implications. Despite a cost-effective production process, the price point for the consumer tends to exceed that of cotton and viscose alternatives. Whether looking to create a jersey or seeking near-100% Modal textiles, the price per yard ranges from $11.99 for MicroModal to $19.99 for more concentrated Modal products. This competitiveness in pricing may deter those seeking an economical solution for their summer wardrobe. The complexity of Modal’s production, combined with a high energy consumption compared to other natural fibers, firmly plants it on the pricier side of the fabric spectrum.

Exceptional Stability and Durability

Modal fabric stands out due to its exceptional stability. While it may not rival the durability of materials such as rip-stop nylon, it certainly provides robust resistance to the wear and tear of an active lifestyle. Impressively resilient, modal fabric maintains its vibrancy of prints and colours longer than fabrics like cotton. One key advantage of modal fabric is its resistance to shrinkage, even when subjected to machine washing, enabling it to retain its shape over time. It further excels in resisting piling and withstands pressure remarkably well. Another noteworthy feature of this rayon variant is its resistance to pill formation, promoting a smooth, wrinkle-free finish. Therefore, despite its similarity to other materials, the blend composition and care instructions must be assessed to appreciate modal fabric’s distinct benefits fully.

Modal Fabric
Modal Fabric – © Janko Ferlič, Unsplash

Cons:

Allergic Reactions and Sensitivities

Modal fabric has been linked to a higher rate of allergic reactions than other textiles. These reactions can range from common symptoms such as itching, redness, and rashes to rare but severe issues like skin blistering, headaches, swollen glands, and disorientation. These symptoms are often experienced by individuals when they come into contact with modal fabric for the first time. As a precaution, those with existing allergies to trees, pollen, or sap may want to consider avoiding modal fabric until they can confirm it will not trigger a similar reaction. Therefore, despite its many benefits, potential allergies should be considered when evaluating the use of modal fabric.

Durability Concerns

Despite the many advantages of modal fabric, its durability leaves something to be desired compared to other materials. It is susceptible to problems such as pilling and stretching, which can alter the structure and appearance of the fabric. Careful handling is required during washing to prevent these issues, with hand washing often recommended. Additionally, the fabric’s propensity to snag on sharp objects like fingernails or doorknobs can lead to runs in the material. As a result, the modal fabric is frequently used for less exposed items such as underwear and pyjamas, where these durability concerns are less problematic.

Sustainability Caveats

Despite its sustainable potential, the modal fabric does not always guarantee eco-friendly practices. Lenzing, a significant producer, strives to create a carbon-neutral process utilizing sustainably grown beech trees. However, lower-cost modal items often originate from countries such as China, using wood pulp imported from Indonesia, with no transparent documentation of their harvesting methods. Consequently, without clear labelling indicating Austrian origin, the product’s sustainability remains uncertain.

Furthermore, some manufacturers have faced accusations from the Rainforest Action Network of contributing to forest destruction to produce this textile. Certain supplies reportedly stem from plantations established in clear-cut areas, replacing diverse forests with mono-crop timber plantations. This practice undermines the otherwise eco-friendly potential of modal fabric, reminding consumers of the importance of sourcing and manufacturing transparency.

Maintenance Challenges

The modal fabric carries specific care requirements that may exceed those of other rayon textiles. For items not entirely pure beechwood fibres, dry cleaning may be necessary to preserve the fabric’s unique qualities. Chlorine bleach should be avoided as it weakens the material’s fibres; oxygen-based cleaners are recommended. Although pure Modal can withstand a dryer cycle on a low heat setting, hanging the garment to the Modal is advisable. Such specific care requirements can add extra complexity to garment maintenance.

Limited Heat Retention

Modal fabric’s cooling qualities make it a delightful choice during warmer seasons, but this feature detracts from its functionality in colder climates. The textile doesn’t retain body heat effectively, leaving wearers chilled in colder weather. This makes the Modal less suitable for bracing the chill of a gusty autumn day or navigating a sModaltrek to school or work. Thus, while modal fabric’s characteristics can be advantageous during vigorous workouts or scorching summer days, its lack of heat retention could pose a drawback during colder months.

Discolouration and Heat Sensitivity

Despite its many admirable attributes, the modal fabric turns yellow when subjected to high temperatures. Regardless of its initial dye colour, this plant-based synthetic textile can undergo discolouration with excessive heat exposure. Unfortunately, the yellowing is often irreversible, rendering a garment unsalvageable once scorched. Therefore, adhering to the care instructions on the label is paramount, safeguarding the garment from heat damage. This peculiarity underscores the need for meticulous handling of modal fabric, posing a challenge for users unfamiliar with such precise care.

Environmental Impact

The production process of modal fabric, a type of rayon, is a matter of environmental concern. To manufacture this textile, cellulose from wood is dissolved in caustic soda, compressed to remove excess liquid, and then subjected to a series of steps, including ripening, filtering, and degassing. This is followed by immersion in sulfuric acid to form rayon filaments. The production process involves using carbon disulfide, a neurotoxin that can pose health risks and contaminate the environment through air and water. Despite the fabric’s biodegradable nature, it decomposes slower than some other textiles due to its water-repellent property. Rayon fibres account for approximately 60% of fibre contamination in deep ocean areas. This intensive, chemical-laden process casts a shadow over the otherwise appealing aspects of the modal fabric.

Mislabeling Issues

Issues of mislabeling represent another concern associated with modal fabric. Several companies have been reported for misleading customers by incorrectly labelling their products as being derived from natural materials rather than through the traditional rayon process. The Federal Trade Commission in the United States took action against this practice, sending letters to over 100 companies. This was a move to address the accusation that retailers were manipulating customers seeking to make environmentally conscious purchases. The consequences were quite significant, with four large retailers incurring penalties of $1.3 million. A similar scenario unfolded in Canada, demonstrating the seriousness of misrepresentation in the textile industry and highlighting the need for vigilant consumer awareness when purchasing products labelled as modal fabric.

Forest Destruction

Forest destruction presents a significant concern tied to the production of modal fabric. Often, there is no assurance that the pulp used for creating modal textiles comes from renewable forests. This caveat applies unless Lenzing, a company known for its commitment to sustainable practices, produces the modal fabric. Consequently, the production of modal fabric can contribute to the detrimental deforestation of our planet, further straining our already fragile ecosystems. This lack of sustainability in sourcing modal pulp adds a considerable con to using this material, particularly for those consumers dedicated to environmentally responsible practices.

Modal Fabric
Modal Fabric – © Fleur, Unsplash

Frequently Asked Questions About Modal Fabric

What is a modal made of?

Manufacturers derive Modal fabric, a semi-synthetic textile, from plant-based sources, earning it a reputation for surpassing cotton in softness and strength. The primary source of its pulp-based cellulose fibres is the European Schneider Zelkova species of beech trees, which are used to craft the fabric. Notably, the creation and maintenance of this fabric involve a significantly lower water consumption rate than cotton, adding an environmentally friendly touch to its appeal. With its unique combination of comfort, durability, and eco-conscious production, this fabric is a compelling alternative to traditional textiles.

What is a micro modal?

Micro Modal, developed by Lenzing, is a refined version of modal rayon, celebrated for its exceptionally lightweight, fine knit, and ultra-soft fabric. This advanced textile has a higher price point than its counterpart, reflecting its enhanced characteristics. Micro Modal’s distinctive softness and comfort make it a favoured choice in producing underwear and sportswear, where the demand for superior quality and feel against the skin is paramount. Its unique properties align well with the requirements of adventurous outdoor pursuits, where comfort, fit, and durability are essential.

How To Wash And Clean Modal Fabric?

To maintain the quality of the modal fabric, follow these straightforward and user-friendly steps. You can wash this fabric at any temperature, which adds versatility to your laundry routine. However, avoid using chlorine-based bleaches, as these harsh chemicals can damage the vibrant colours of the garment and compromise its strength. Instead, use oxygen-based bleaches. These provide a safer and equally effective cleaning solution. After washing, dry the garments at low to medium temperatures to protect their texture and longevity. Adhering to these guidelines ensures that modal fabric’s distinctive softness and resilience remains intact, offering a comfortable and durable experience for any outdoor adventure.

Does Modal Fabric Shrink?

While modal fabric shares similarities with other rayon-based textiles, such as cotton, it defies expectations regarding shrinkage. Many might think this fabric is prone to shrinkage. However, this fabric is resistant to this common issue. Its low surface friction and robust fibres contribute to this property. Modal fabric is approximately 50% less likely to shrink. This resilience makes it reliable for outdoor and adventure wear. It can withstand various environmental and laundering conditions. It doesn’t compromise its size or fit.

Is Modal Fabric Toxic?

Despite its origins in natural resources, the production process of modal fabric, like other rayon-based textiles, does involve chemicals, introducing a degree of toxicity. Yet, it’s noteworthy that the Modal’s toxicity level is substantially lower than that of other rayon fibres. However, it’s essential to consider environmental impacts beyond chemical use; modal production can contribute to deforestation. Among rayon-based fabrics, Lyocell emerges as the most eco-friendly option, providing a balance of comfort and environmental consideration for the conscientious adventurer.

Is Modal Fabric Breathable?

Indeed, modal fabric’s breathability is one of its most appreciated characteristics. Its foundation in beech wood pulp endows it with a natural structure that facilitates ample air circulation. As a result, garments crafted from this fabric offer a comfortable wearing experience, even on the warmest summer days. This fabric does not trap sweat, making it an optimal choice for outdoor activities and adventure pursuits where keeping cool is crucial. The breathability of modal fabric underscores its appeal as a fabric that combines comfort, durability, and practicality.

Can You Dye Modal Fabric?

Modal fabric’s high absorbency allows easy and effective dyeing, making it a versatile textile for varied aesthetic preferences. This fabric’s property to quickly and effectively absorb any liquid it contacts aids in the dyeing process. Before dyeing, garments should be thoroughly washed with detergent to ensure optimal dye uptake. Following this, a reactive dye applied in lukewarm water effectively imparts colour to the fabric. Therefore, the modal fabric offers functional advantages like strength and breathability and allows for customization, adding to its appeal in outdoor and adventure wear.

Is Modal Fabric Stretchy?

Indeed, the impressive stretchiness of modal fabric makes it highly suitable for active pursuits. This quality makes it a top choice for activewear and t-shirts. It offers a form-fitting style and allows for unhindered movement. Its high flexibility and comfort cater to all body types. This makes it an adaptable and accommodating textile. Whether you want to accentuate curves or need free, unobstructed movement, the modal fabric is up to the task. Its inherent stretchability meets a wide range of garment requirements. It aligns with the varied demands of outdoor and adventure enthusiasts.

A Comprehensive Guide to Scafell Pike Routes

July 20, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Scafell Pike, the tallest mountain in England at 978 meters, is a magnetic destination for climbers and sightseers. Located in the beautiful Lake District National Park, the mountain is notable for its height and historical significance as a war memorial overseen by the National Trust.

The mountain offers a selection of three principal routes that cater to a range of climber preferences, each path beginning from a different side and delivering a unique journey to the summit. The route choice can significantly impact the climbing experience, offering anything from a direct ascent to a more varied expedition incorporating multiple peaks.

Selecting the appropriate route requires careful assessment of several factors, such as climbing ability, desired challenges, starting point’s geographical convenience, and the appeal of other peaks along the climb. Despite being the smallest of the National Three Peaks, Scafell Pike’s climb requires substantial planning and a respectful approach due to its unique challenges.

Scafell Pike is an integral part of the revered Three Peaks Challenge walks. It provides a thrilling trek against the stunning Lake District backdrop. The ascent is far from easy. However, each route symbolises effort and endurance. They invite climbers to appreciate the splendour of England’s highest point. Despite its size relative to its peers, Scafell Pike promises an enriching adventure. This promise is for those who take up the challenge to reach its summit.

Key FactDetail
Height978 m or 3,209 ft
Main Routes1. Wasdale Head (most popular and shortest) 2. Dungeon Ghyll in Great Langdale 3. Corridor route via Wasdale 4. Boot in Eskdale 5. Seathwaite in Borrowdale
DifficultySmallest of the National 3 Peaks

Scafell Pike, Main Routes

Scafell Pike
Scafell Pike – © Amit Jagnade, Unsplash

Scafell Pike, England’s highest mountain, offers explorers five distinct walking routes, each delivering a unique climbing experience and view.

These options include the popular Wasdale Head route, known for its direct and efficient ascent, and alternatives such as the paths from Dungeon Ghyll in Great Langdale, Boot in Eskdale, and the trails from Seathwaite in Borrowdale and Wasdale. Each route has its unique allure, from the scenic diversity of the Seathwaite Route and the Great Langdale Route to the tranquillity of the less-travelled Hardknott Eskdale route.

The right path choice requires careful consideration of factors such as speed, adventure, details, and personal preference, underscoring the idea that every Scafell Pike climb is a unique journey in its own right.

The Classic Path: Scafell Pike via the Wasdale Head

The Wasdale route, the preferred path for many ascending Scafell Pike, is a significant highlight of the Three Peaks Challenge. With a distance of 4.2 km and a 910 km ascent, this route offers a demanding but rewarding climb, typically taking around three hours to complete.

The journey commences at the Wasdale National Trust Car Park, an ideal location with essential amenities such as a hot food and drinks trailer, an information booth, and toilets. This well-appointed starting point, nestled next to a campsite, serves as a welcoming gateway to the mountain.

As one embarks on the Wasdale route, the steep start of the trail calls for occasional rest stops. Don’t be deceived by its popularity among tourists, as this path is rugged and can become indistinct halfway up, making it a challenging route even for seasoned climbers. The final ascent is particularly tricky, with a rocky and stony terrain adding to the challenge.

Despite the route’s steep and narrow paths, this small peak might resonate with climbers, making it the popular choice for those seeking an unforgettable mountaineering experience on England’s highest mountain.

A Longer Adventure: Scafell Pike from Great Langdale

The Great Langdale route to Scafell Pike is exceptional. It’s perfect for those seeking a lengthier, immersive adventure. It spans 9.3 km and ascends 1026m. The journey takes approximately 4 hours. This provides an enriching experience beyond a typical climb.

The route begins at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel. It offers a unique chance to soak up breathtaking views of several renowned valleys in the Lake District. It also showcases a striking rock landscape. This enhances the appeal of the journey. This route suits those who value the adventure as much as the destination.

Parking in Great Langdale is readily available. The National Trust car park at Stickle Ghyll and the National Park’s Langdale car park provides ample vehicle space. These convenient facilities add to the overall ease and enjoyment of the Great Langdale route. This makes it an outstanding option for climbing Scafell Pike.

Scafell Pike Route
Scafell Pike Route – © Calum Flanagan, Unsplash

The Alternative Challenge: Scafell Pike via the Corridor Route from Wasdale

The Corridor Route from Wasdale Head offers a distinct pathway up Scafell Pike, presenting a blend of length and technicality, differentiating it from the traditional Wasdale route. This track spans 7.7 km, with an ascent of 967m, and is estimated to take around 3 to 4 hours to complete.

From the National Trust Car Park at Wasdale Head, hikers are met with various convenient facilities, including a pub and campsite at Wastwater. This ensures a comfortable and well-catered start to their adventure.

While this route is more commonly embarked upon from Seathwaite, the Wasdale Head Start presents an intriguing variation. The Corridor Route from here offers a less steep but more technical alternative, perfect for those seeking a different challenge on their ascent. The additional length allows for a more gradual climb, allowing climbers to fully absorb the majestic landscapes of Scafell Pike and the surrounding area. With ample parking available, the journey to the peak begins organised and hassle-free, setting the tone for an unforgettable expedition.

Off the Beaten Path: Scafell Pike from Hardknott Eskdale

The Hardknott Eskdale route to Scafell Pike offers a less frequented pathway to England’s highest peak. With a distance of 17.3 km and an ascent of 966m, this route, estimated to take approximately 6 hours, provides an alternative for those seeking a quieter and more untamed adventure.

Starting from The Woolpack Inn, this route offers a different perspective of Scafell Pike. Its reputation as a less-travelled pathway allows climbers to embark on a peaceful journey away from the crowds that typically populate the Wasdale Head route, particularly during the peak summer months.

This serene climb offers the unique allure of solitary exploration, making it an attractive choice for those who prefer solitude to conquer Scafell Pike. The Hardknott Eskdale route presents an opportunity to engage with the mountain’s more untamed side, offering an adventure steeped in tranquillity and the rugged charm of untouched landscapes.

Scenic Splendor: Scafell Pike from Seathwaite

The Seathwaite route, also known as the corridor route, is a remarkable pathway to the peak of Scafell Pike. With a distance of 7.27 km and an ascent of 876m, this route, which takes around 3 to 3.5 hours to complete, has captured the hearts of many climbers and is a prominent feature on numerous bucket lists.

Offering an enticing alternative to the often-taken Wasdale route, Seathwaite boasts a more accessible location near Keswick’s charming town. This route provides free parking and gives climbers higher-quality paths, enhancing the overall climbing experience.

The gradients on the Seathwaite route are generally gentler compared to other ways, making the ascent less strenuous and more enjoyable. What sets this path apart is the spectacular scenery it offers. Climbers are treated to some of the finest views in the Lake District, making the Seathwaite route an unmissable adventure for novice and experienced climbers.

Other routes up Scafell Pike

 Scafell Pike
Scafell Pike – © George Bannister, Unsplash

Scafell Pike from Wasdale Via Mickledore

Embarking on a trek to Scafell Pike from Wasdale via Mickledore promises an adventurous alternative to the more common paths. The journey begins and concludes at Wastwater in Wasdale, spanning a distance of 3.8km with a considerable ascent of 887m. This journey can be completed in an estimated 2-3 hours, depending on the pace and weather conditions.

This path begins with the same initial climb as the Brown Tongue route but deviates at Hollow Stones. The trail then heads directly towards the notable col at Mickledore instead of taking a left turn as one would on the Wasdale way.

Upon reaching Mickledore, Broad Stand greets walkers, a towering feature, only experienced climbers should attempt. You can find the final stretch up Scafell Pike from Mickledore by taking a path to the left upon arriving at Mickledore. Though less travelled, this route offers a stimulating challenge for those eager to experience a different side of Scafell Pike’s splendid scenery.

Climb up Scafell Pike via Piers Gill

The route via Piers Gill may be the hidden gem adventurers seek for a less frequented but equally thrilling climb up Scafell Pike. Commencing and culminating at Wasdale Head, this track covers a distance of approximately 5.9km with a substantial ascent of 889m. Depending on one’s hiking pace, this journey will take around 2 hours.

This route carves a unique path alongside the grand Piers Gill canyon, which majestically slices across Lingmell’s flanks, affording climbers spectacular views and a serene atmosphere away from the bustling crowds of the Hollow Stones and Corridor Route. This path is noted for its tranquil appeal and intimacy with the landscape as it winds up alongside the gill.

While this trail captivates, it also presents challenges. The journey involves several short yet steep scrambles that climbers can’t avoid, requiring fitness and skill. While the gill holds an undeniable allure, climbers must treat it with respect due to its history of accidents. Remember, it’s not feasible to walk up or down Piers Gill’s stream bed, and climbers should take safety precautions seriously. Despite its challenges, this route offers those up for the task an immersive, off-the-beaten-path experience.

Scafell Pike via Lingmell

Scafell Pike via Lingmell could be the perfect trek for the adventure-seeking hiker who appreciates less crowded paths. Commencing and concluding at Wastwater in Wasdale, this path covers an impressive 5km, with a vigorous ascent of 942m. A typical journey time stands at around 2.5 hours.

This path from Wasdale begins by following the customary routes to Scafell Pike but soon diverges by directing climbers uphill towards Lingmell. This divergence provides a more serene experience, as hikers can enjoy the less frequented path in relative solitude. For those setting off from Wasdale Head, the route is easily identified and signposted at the start, ensuring no confusion for the hiker.

Once the hike is underway from the National Trust Car Park at Wastwater, conveniently next to the campsite, the trail leads directly uphill along Lingmell Beck. This stretch offers a moderate challenge and ample natural beauty as the trail travels through the terrain. The Scafell Pike via Lingmell route is ideal for those who wish to escape the crowds and take the road less travelled on their ascent.

Scafell Pike From Eskdale and Boot – via Pen

Venturing on the path less travelled, the Scafell Pike route from Eskdale and Boot via Pen stands as a quiet invitation to the adventurous hiker. This unique route, starting and ending at Jubilee Bridge in Eskdale, spans 8.6 km and involves an ascent of 948 m. Hikers can expect to complete the journey in approximately 3.5 to 4 hours.

The route from Eskdale, via the quaintly named village of Boot, presents one of the longest and most secluded paths to the summit. Due to its remote location within Eskdale and Great Moss bounds, first-time climbers may find this route more challenging. The Hollow Stones or Seathwaite routes offer a more suitable alternative for those new to Scafell Pike.

Eskdale embodies the wild and largely unspoiled spirit of the Lake District. This valley, circled by some of the most iconic Lakeland fells, surprisingly sees few visitors. For newcomers, Eskdale may seem daunting with its lengthy walk-in, pathless navigation, bogs, and solitude. However, experienced hikers find these factors converging to create a memorable, exhilarating day in the fells, a testament to the untouched beauty of this rugged landscape.

Scafell Pike
Scafell Pike – © Ashleigh Joy, Unsplash

Scafell Pike via Scafell – The Walker’s Route

Journeying via the Walker’s Route to Scafell Pike presents an unforgettable trekking experience. Starting and ending at Wastwater in Wasdale, this route is approximately 5.6 km long with an impressive ascent of 1134 m. Hikers should plan for about 4 hours to complete the journey.

Historically, Scafell was perceived as the highest mountain, with other hills merely viewed as the ”pikes” of Scafell. This route allows the ambitious walker to conquer Scafell and Scafell Pike in a single trip, providing a comprehensive and rewarding hiking experience.

A vital feature of this route is avoiding the Broad Stand climb. Instead, it takes adventurers on a descent via Fox’s Tarn. While this alternative means losing slightly more height than on Broad Stand, it is an optimal choice for those who aren’t avid climbers. So, gear up for an enticing walk that weaves through the heart of England’s breathtaking mountainous landscapes.

Best Time of Climbing Scafell Pike

Choosing the ideal time to climb Scafell Pike is crucial for a memorable and enjoyable mountaineering experience. A perfect period would be when the mountain is snow-free, with minimal rain and wind.

Between May and October, conditions are generally favourable for an ascent. Although summer can bring warmer temperatures and potentially low clouds and rain, it’s also the peak period for climbers, which can result in crowding on the trails.

To optimise the experience, it’s advisable to avoid July and August, as these months coincide with school holidays and often see an influx of climbers. For a more serene and less congested trek, late May to early June or mid-September, preferably on a weekday, is recommended. This timing allows for more parking options and an uncluttered mountain, making the climb more scenic and authentic.

For those willing to brave cooler temperatures, October to May can offer a unique experience. However, snow is expected at higher altitudes during these months, and freezing temperatures can lead to water ice formation. Therefore, carrying winter equipment and preparing for lower temperatures becomes a necessity.

Regardless of the chosen month, climbers should never forget that the summit temperature tends to be five to ten degrees lower than the valley temperature. Windchill can also be severe on the summit plateau at any time of the year, necessitating appropriate preparation and caution.

Weather Check of Scafell Pike

Understanding the weather conditions on Scafell Pike is integral to any successful and safe ascent. Given the unpredictable nature of mountainous weather, it’s critical to check the forecast before climbing. Although not consistently accurate, the projection provides valuable insight into potential weather changes that could impact the climb.

Undertaking the Three Peaks Challenge, which includes Scafell Pike, is ideally done in the summer months. This period traditionally presents fewer adverse weather conditions, potentially making the climb more manageable and enjoyable. However, it’s essential to continuously monitor the forecast in the days leading up to the trek. This practice allows for real-time adjustment of plans and preparation, ensuring a safer and more rewarding journey up the highest mountain in England.

Scafell Pike
Scafell Pike – © Dan Cook, Unsplash

Fascinating Facts about Scafell Pike

Immersed in a wealth of history and offering a stunning panorama of nature’s bounty, Scafell Pike is more than England’s highest mountain. A fascinating tapestry of interesting facts makes this mountain a magnet for climbers.

A participant in the National Three Peaks Challenge, Scafell Pike shares its status with the eminent Ben Nevis and Snowdon. Its natural features include Broad Crag Tarn, which at an elevation of 820 meters, is the highest standing water in England.

Adding to its allure, Scafell Pike was a generous donation by Lord Leconfield to the National Trust in 1919. This heartfelt gift was a tribute to the brave men of the Lake District who made the ultimate sacrifice during the First World War. The original terminology of Scafell Pike included Broad Crag and Ill Crag, all once collectively known as The Pikes of Sca Fell.

Wastwater Lake, residing within the folds of Scafell Pike Mountain, holds the title of the deepest lake in England. Measuring three miles in length, over half a mile wide, and reaching depths of 258 feet, it’s a sight to behold.

On rare, clear days, the summit serves as a vantage point. You can view distant peaks in Ireland, Scotland, and the Isle of Man. There are about five known routes to the summit. Often, the Wasdale Route offers the most direct and quickest path to Scafell Pike’s peak.

Frequently Asked Questions About Scafell Pike

Can a beginner climb Scafell Pike?

The answer is a cautious yes. The journey to Scafell Pike’s summit is indeed accessible to beginners, but it is advisable to undertake this challenge accompanied by a knowledgeable guide. This is not a climb to be underestimated; the ascent is demanding, and the mountainous environment can be challenging.

Weather unpredictability is a significant factor in this climb. Climbers may encounter severe conditions such as powerful winds, intense wind chill, and even snowfall, irrespective of the season. These potential difficulties underline the importance of adequate preparation and informed guidance for those beginners wishing to conquer Scafell Pike.

Which is the shortest route up Scafell Pike?

The Wasdale route earns this distinction. Initiating from Wasdale Head, this route, almost at sea level, immediately embarks on an ascent alongside Lingmell Gill. It presents an advantageous choice for beginners or those desiring a quicker hike.

Climbers should note that while they can easily follow the well-formed trail leading to the col, the final ascent from the col to the summit might be less straightforward. This segment has crags on both sides, introducing an element of challenge. Despite its brevity, the Wasdale route offers an engaging climb to Scafell Pike.

How hard is it to climb Scafell Pike?

It requires understanding that the ascent is challenging regardless of the chosen path and necessitates meticulous planning and preparation. Numerous climbers triumphantly reach the peak autonomously, their success testament to their diligent practice. However, a few less fortunate ones – perhaps those who haven’t prepared as extensively – encounter difficulties and require rescue. Each stride up Scafell Pike is a test of tenacity, proving that conquering this mountain is an accomplishment not to be underestimated.

Which route offers the best views when climbing Scafell Pike?

Each route to the Scafell Pike summit reveals stunning panoramas, but people often revere the way from Langdale for its visual diversity. This path traverses various other peaks, including Bow Fell and Esk Pike, gifting climbers with a rich tapestry of landscapes. On a clear day, the viewpoint from Bow Fell offers a particularly majestic sight of Scafell Pike itself, making the journey worthwhile. However, fewer climbers tread the Langdale route, and it demands thorough preparation and adept navigation skills. Every step this route takes brings you closer to the summit and its breathtaking vistas.

What do I do in an emergency?

In an unforeseen emergency while climbing Scafell Pike, being equipped with a whistle and a head torch can prove crucial. These can serve as indispensable tools to attract attention and signal for assistance, far more effective and less energy-consuming than shouting. A series of six blasts on a whistle or flashes from a torch at regular intervals can alert fellow walkers to a distress situation.

In more dire circumstances, dialling 999 is the recommended course of action. The initial contact should be with the police, followed by a request for Mountain Rescue. Essential information to relay includes the grid reference of the current location, the size of the party, and the nature of the incident. Navigating through emergencies requires calm and informed actions, and these steps serve as a vital guide in such situations.

Are there any guided treks available for Scafell Pike?

Indeed, guided treks offer a fantastic opportunity for those eager to extract the total value of their Scafell Pike journey. Expert mountain guides, well-versed in traversing England’s tallest peak, are available to accompany climbers. Their knowledge encompasses not only the practicalities of the ascent but also the hidden gems along the route. Guided treks enable climbers to focus less on navigation and more on absorbing the surrounding beauty, enriching the overall experience and offering a chance to appreciate the scenic spots that might otherwise go unnoticed.

How long will it take me to climb Scafell Pike?

The time required to conquer Scafell Pike is subject to several variables, including the chosen route, individual pace, and prevailing weather conditions. The Wasdale route is typically the shortest and fastest, often favoured by climbers eager to reach the summit swiftly. However, it’s critical to consider that factors such as pace and weather play a significant role in determining the overall time of the climb. Personal fitness level, the unpredictability of mountain weather, and the terrain’s difficulty may all contribute to the journey’s duration.

Do I need to take a map and compass?

Navigating Scafell Pike necessitates a good grasp of basic orienteering skills. The path to the summit is neither marked nor straightforward, making an OS Map an indispensable tool for climbers. Furthermore, the ability to use this map accurately can make the difference between a smooth, enjoyable climb and an unnecessarily arduous trek. Therefore, always carry an OS Map and familiarise yourself with its usage before climbing.

Can I wild camp on Scafell Pike?

Wild camping offers a unique way to fully experience the grandeur of Scafell Pike and the broader Lake District. It is generally accepted practice, provided it’s done within the recognised guidelines. These directives ensure that the area’s natural beauty and delicate ecosystems are preserved. So, for those adventurers craving an overnight stay beneath the stars, wild camping can be an enriching part of their Scafell Pike journey.

Green Boots: An Enigmatic Fallen Climber on Mount Everest

July 15, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Mount Everest, the pinnacle of mountaineering adventures, holds many triumphant and tragic stories. Amidst these, one poignant tale that continues to resonate within the mountaineering community is that of “Green Boots”.

An unidentified climber, Green Boots has become a symbol of the risks inherent in scaling the world’s highest peak. This nickname derives from the green Koflach boots he wore during his fatal expedition, a stark emblem of his fateful journey etched onto the mountain’s landscape.

Green Boots’ eternal resting place is within a limestone alcove on the Northeast ridge route. This served as a sombre waypoint for climbers at a formidable height of 8,500 meters (or 27,900 feet) until his landmark was moved in 2014. The tale of Green Boots continues to serve as a cautionary narrative within the climbing world, emphasizing the fine line between Everest’s majestic beauty and deadly power.

Green Boots
Green Bootes – © Maxwelljo40, WikiCommons

The Chronicles of Green Boots

The tale of Green Boots on Everest gained traction within the global mountaineering community when British filmmaker and climber Matt Dickinson recorded the first video footage of the climber’s final resting place in May 1996. This unsettling footage is a testament to the risk inherent in high-altitude mountaineering. Moreover, it is a significant segment in the Brian Blessed documentary “Summit Fever”. In the film, the narration identifies the frozen figure as a climber from Nepal, hinting at the global reach of Everest’s allure and danger.

As the years passed, Green Boots became an infamous landmark on Everest’s north route, a morbid waypoint on the journey towards the summit. The chilling site became tragically associated with the demise of mountaineer David Sharp. It was underscoring the grim reality of the harsh mountain environment. However, the striking visibility of this landmark shifted in 2014. It was when members of a Chinese expedition moved Green Boots to a less conspicuous location. This act not only altered the physical landscape of the route but also marked a change in the narrative of Everest climbing. Additionally, it subtly shifts the balance between the mountain’s breathtaking beauty and the stark reality of its dangers.

The Probable Identities Behind ‘Green Boots’ on Everest

Green Boots
Green Boots – © Wikki Commons

Tsewang Paljor

Everest’s infamous “Green Boots” is widely believed to be the Indian climber Tsewang Paljor. Paljor was part of a larger team that donned green Koflach boots during a fateful expedition in 1996. This expedition was led by Commandant Mohinder Singh and marked the first Indian ascent of Everest from the east side.

On the unfortunate day of May 10, 1996, a blizzard caught a team of six climbers, including Paljor, Morup, and Smanla, just shy of the summit. The trio chose to forge ahead to the top and radioed their expedition leader to confirm their arrival. Tragically, contact was lost after that, and none of the three climbers managed to return to the high camp.

Their disappearance sparked controversy when speculation arose that a team of Japanese climbers, unaware of the missing Indians, might have encountered them and failed to assist. These allegations, initially acrimonious, were later clarified, revealing no ill intent on the part of the Japanese team.

The harsh reality of Paljor’s probable identity as “Green Boots” is a potent reminder of the deadliest single-day event in Everest’s history. The mountain has claimed the lives of several climbers, including notable figures like Scott Fischer and Rob Hall. This catastrophic event inspired the famous film “Everest”, thus, further etching the tale of “Green Boots” in the annals of mountaineering history.

Dorje Morup

Though “‘”Green Boots” is frequently identified as Tsewang Paljor, an alternative theory proposed that Lance Naik Dorje Morup might be this enduring symbol. This perspective surfaced in a 1997 article, “The Indian Ascent of Qomolungma by the North Ridge,” by P. M. Das, deputy leader of the expedition.

According to Das, they sighted two climbers descending under the illumination of their head torches at 19:30. Yet they soon vanished from view. The following day, the leader of the second summit group radioed that they encountered Morup progressing slowly between the First and Second Steps. Despite his frost-bitten hands, Morup resisted wearing gloves and struggled to unclip his safety carabiner at anchor points. The Japanese team allegedly assisted him in transitioning to the next section of rope.

Unexpectedly, the Japanese group came across the body of Tsewang Smanla above the Second Step. On their return, they observed Morup advancing at a snail’s pace, believing he succumbed late on May 11. Strikingly, Das maintains that they never discovered Paljor’s body.

In an additional encounter, a second ITBP group found the bodies of Smanla and Morup upon their descent from the summit. Morup was located “under the shelter of a boulder near their line of descent, close to Camp 6”, his clothing intact and rucksack by his side. This evidence compels speculation that the enduring figure of Green Boots, widely believed to be Tsewang Paljor, might be Lance Naik Dorje Morup.

The Tale of Green Boots

Everest
Everest – © Tom Cleary, Unsplash

He was emerging as an undeniable symbol of Everest’s inherent risks. The figure known as Green Boots is a stark reminder for climbers setting their sights on the world’s highest summit. The eerie view of his final resting place offers a sobering realization of the mountain’s harsh conditions. He painted a vivid image of the potential consequences of under-preparedness.

Green Boots, believed to be Tsewang Paljor, has etched his silent warning into the mountaineering narrative for over 25 years. His story is not an isolated incident – over 200 climbers have lost their lives to the mountain’s unforgiving environment. The high-altitude ‘death zone’ eerily preserves their bodies. The high cost, risk, and difficulty of recovering these fallen climbers leave many untouched. They were turning Everest into an unintentional high-altitude graveyard. This phenomenon has ignited discussions within the mountaineering community. Essentially, it debates the ethics of the propriety of leaving these bodies in place. Furthermore, it sparked calls for changes in treating Everest’s fallen.

The Final Resting Place of Green Boots

The saga of Green Boots and his enduring presence on Mount Everest centres around a small, cave-like crevice just shy of the mountain’s summit and perched at approximately 27,890 feet. This location has become one of the most visible landmarks on the North Ridge route, a silent guidepost to the many climbers navigating the treacherous path to the summit.

This unassuming alcove lies within the ominously termed “Death Zone”. It is a segment of Everest’s Rainbow Valley infamous for its high casualty count due to extreme altitude sickness and freezing temperatures. With over 200 fatalities recorded on Everest, the colourful tents and gear scattered across this hauntingly beautiful landscape form a grim mosaic. It serves as a stark reminder of the mountain’s lethal potential. Green Boots’ enduring presence within this frozen tableau is a chilling testament to the dangerous proximity to Everest’s deadly summit.

Green Boots and the Ethical Dilemma on Everest

The enduring presence of Green Boots on Everest brings forth a heated debate within the mountaineering community. The heart lies in the ethical implications of leaving the fallen in their lofty graves. This practice is often a result of logistical and safety concerns. However, it has drawn criticism and sparked discussions around respect, dignity, and sacred beliefs.

Advocates of leaving the deceased on Everest point out the inherent risks and prohibitive costs associated with their removal. They argue that these final resting places are a tribute to those who dared to conquer the world’s highest peak. On the other hand, some deem it disrespectful to the deceased and their families, viewing it as exploitation rather than reverence. The argument extends to the belief that these stark reminders of mortality should not serve as deterrents or motivational tools for aspiring climbers.

Adding to this complex issue is the reverence of the local population for Everest, viewed as a deity deserving of respect. The presence of the fallen and general detritus is seen as a desecration of this sacred entity. Hence, Green Boots and others like him sit at the intersection of ethics, respect for cultural beliefs, and the practical realities of high-altitude mountaineering.

Alternatives to Leaving Bodies on Everest

Green Boots - © Martin Jernberg, Unsplash
Green Boots – © Martin Jernberg, Unsplash

The discussion surrounding Green Boots and other climbers resting eternally on Everest continues. Potential alternatives to this contentious practice have surfaced within the mountaineering community.

One proposed solution calls for a specialized team dedicated to safely retrieving and transporting bodies from the high-altitude landscape, despite this endeavour’s formidable costs and inherent risks. This option could resolve the ethical dilemma and bring peace to the families of the departed climbers.

An additional proposed alternative advocates for establishing a memorial site for those who have lost their lives while pursuing the summit. Such a dedicated site would offer a location for respect and remembrance. This alleviates the need to use bodies as sombre landmarks that serve as a poignant reminder of Everest’s harsh realities. In comparison, it is honouring the memory of the brave individuals who dared to challenge the world’s highest peak.

Mount Everest and the Echo of Green Boots

While steeped in controversy, the legacy of Green Boots on Everest offers many essential reflections. His omnipresence on the mountain ignites conversations about the ethics involved in mountaineering. Furthermore, it sheds light on the complex dynamics of respecting the fallen while managing the practical realities of high-altitude climbing.

As humans persist in challenging limits and exploring the unknown, the conversation inevitably turns toward the implications of these pursuits. The achievement of summiting Everest carries not just glory but an array of risks and responsibilities. These responsibilities extend beyond the climbers, encompassing environmental considerations and broader societal impact.

The enduring tale of Green Boots stands as a stark reminder of the perils of mountaineering. This includes the absolute necessity of respecting both mountains and those who made the ultimate sacrifice in their quest to conquer them. As the mountaineering community evolves, honouring and respecting those lost on Everest becomes essential. Not to forget, this is all while seeking sustainable and ethical ways to navigate its treacherous slopes.

The Unspoken Stories of Everest’s Green Boots

Mount Everest - © Mari Partyka, Unsplash
Mount Everest – © Mari Partyka, Unsplash

Green Boots gained particular notoriety among the estimated 200 bodies on Everest’s slopes by the 21st century. The moment when this moniker first entered the Everest vernacular remains uncertain. However, it became well-known as expeditions from the north side invariably encountered the body ensconced in a limestone alcove cave. Situated at 27,890 feet, the cave, strewn with discarded oxygen bottles, sits below the infamous—first Step on the route.

Another infamous figure in Everest’s chilling tableau is Francys Arsentiev, or “Sleeping Beauty”. This story is about a woman who tragically died during her descent from Everest’s summit in 1998. Her body remained visible until 2007, when someone respectfully concealed it.

The grimly-named “Rainbow Valley” holds the remains of other bodies adorned with colourful mountaineering gear. Among them is Hannelore Schmatz, known as “the German woman”. Schmatz reached the summit in 1979 but perished at 27,000 feet during her descent. Initially, her remains occupied a prominent position on the south route, but wind and weather have displaced them down the mountain.

The tragic fate of British mountaineer David Sharp unfolded in 2006 in Green Boots’ cave. Climber Mark Inglis and his party found Sharp in a hypothermic state and left him behind after he radioed for assistance. Sadly, Sharp succumbed to the extreme cold hours later. As dozens of climbers passed by that day, conjecture suggests that many mistook the dying man for the landmark known as Green Boots, paying him little heed in their summit quest.

Frequently Asked Questions about Green Boots

Here are answers to some frequently asked questions about ‘Green Boots.’

Is “‘Green Boots” still present on Mount Everest?

Contrary to popular belief, “Green Boots” continues to be a part of Everest’s landscape over 25 years since the fatal climb in 1996. At the same time, there have been efforts to cover the body with snow and stones respectfully. Upon the request of the climber’s family, it still marks the trail toward the summit.

Was “‘Green Boots” ever removed from Everest?

Between 2014 and 2017, “Green Boots” was reported as absent from its usual spot on the north side climb. However, in 2017, the figure reappeared, encircled by an increased number of stones. The body is believed to remain in the exact location, serving as a chilling landmark for climbers to gauge their progress.

What was the age of “Green Boots” at the time of death?

“Green Boots”, believed to be either Tsewang Paljor or Dorje Morup, was only 28 years old when he died on the harsh slopes of Everest. Born on April 10, 1968, this young climber’s tragic demise was on May 11, 1996. It underlines the unforgiving nature of high-altitude mountaineering.

Who is the well-known deceased climber on Everest?

The deceased climber known as “Green Boots” is widely speculated to be Tsewang Paljor, an Indian mountaineer who lost his life during a 1996 expedition on Everest. However, the identity of this climber has never been definitively established.

When was “Green Boots” shifted from its location on Everest?

“Green Boots” has been a perennial fixture on Everest for years. Yet, a Chinese expedition reportedly attempted to move the body off the climbing trail in 2014. Despite these efforts, “Green Boots” reappeared later in the exact location. It ultimately underscores the complexity and sensitivity involved in dealing with the high-altitude remains on Everest.

Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer

July 14, 2023 by Furqan Javed

“Into Thin Air: A Personal Account of the Mt. Everest Disaster” is more than just a bestseller. It’s a stark journey through the lethal storm of 1996 that forever marked the history of Mount Everest. This gripping narrative is written by Jon Krakauer, a respected nonfiction author and participant in the ill-fated expedition. The book offers a unique vantage point on a catastrophe that shattered lives, careers, and norms within the climbing community.

In the spotlight are esteemed guides Rob Hall and Scott Fischer, whose skills and experience couldn’t shield them from the unforgiving storm. Hall, a proven leader, and Fischer, a daring mountaineer, become central figures in a tale that questions not just individual decisions but the broader implications of the competitive commercialization of Everest.

Krakauer’s first-hand account is a sad reflection on risk, resilience, and respect for nature’s might. It is meticulously detailed, intensely personal, and profoundly enlightening. “Into Thin Air” is a reminder of the thin line that separates triumph from tragedy on the world’s highest peak.

Into Thin Air
Into Thin Air

Summary of the Book

In “Into Thin Air,” Jon Krakauer vividly recounts the brutal and tragic 1996 Everest expedition. This is where he joined as part of a professional assignment for Outside Magazine. Initially tasked with documenting the commercialism on Everest, Krakauer’s ambition drove him to witness and participate in the climb. Inadvertently, it also aligned his fate with the deadliest Everest expedition on record.

The narrative delivers a chilling timeline of events unfurled on the merciless mountain terrain. Krakauer, a member of the Adventure Consultants group led by Rob Hall, embarked on a journey meticulously broken down into camps for acclimatization, culminating in the final push towards the summit in early May.

Krakauer’s description of his climbing cohorts makes the unfolding drama tangible. It also includes their shared struggles with altitude acclimatization and varying expertise levels. Unfortunately, death emerges as an unwelcome companion on their expedition, appearing in Chapter 11. Moving forward, it just becomes more familiar as the narrative progresses.

The summit push marked the unravelling of the expedition. Despite an imposed 2 pm turn-around time, some climbers, including guide Rob Hall, reached the summit much later. This was when a sudden storm trapped them. Krakauer, who had successfully descended, was unaware of the life-threatening conditions faced by his companions. It included the desperate struggles of Hall, fellow climber Doug Hansen, and a competing group led by Scott Fischer.

Details of the expedition’s harrowing end – stranded climbers, futile rescue attempts, the miraculous survival of Beck Weathers despite severe frostbite injuries, and twelve fatalities during that season – are recounted with raw honesty. Fischer and Hall succumbed on the mountain, leaving a legacy intertwined with the 1996 Everest disaster.

Further Details – Krakauer’s Survival Guilt & Insights

Krakauer’s narrative then takes a contemplative turn. Post-expedition, he grapples with survivor’s guilt and a transformed perspective on mortality. His journalistic instincts, however, remain intact. Armed with new insights, research, and interviews with survivors, he delves into a comprehensive and accurate retelling of the events. This is despite being aware of the pain and anger his book might stir among the victims’ friends and families.

“Into Thin Air” encapsulates Krakauer’s lifelong fascination with Everest, rekindled against his better judgment and culminating in a sobering experience. He analyzes the allure of the mountain that lures climbers into dismissing inherent risks and weathering extreme hardships. Powered by his robust reportage and emotional clarity, Krakauer’s first-hand account is a poignant testimony to the events that unfolded at the world’s highest peak in May 1996. His critique of competitive guiding agencies compromising safety for summits adds a sharp edge to his narrative. It also etches a chilling reminder of the price of ambition in the face of nature’s unpredictable might.

Krakauer’s “Into Thin Air” and the Mountaineering Controversy

Mount Everest
Mount Everest – © Unsplash

“Into Thin Air” has courted controversy and critique, becoming a subject of hot debate within the mountaineering community. Krakauer’s portrayal of Russian climber and guide Anatoli Boukreev is central to these critiques. Boukreev, an experienced high-altitude climber working for Scott Fischer‘s expedition, decided to descend the summit ahead of his clients. It is a move that Krakauer scrutinized in his account.

Krakauer’s narrative raises questions about Boukreev’s decision not to use supplementary oxygen, mountaineering gear, and client interactions. He acknowledges Boukreev’s unquestionable heroism in saving lives during the disaster. However, Krakauer’s also concerns his decisions sparked a rebuttal from the Russian guide himself in his 1997 book, “The Climb.”

Fellow mountaineer Galen Rowell weighed in on the debate, pointing out inconsistencies in Krakauer’s account. He also defends Boukreev’s actions as “nothing short of heroic.” Rowell contended that Boukreev’s decision to descend ahead of clients was strategic. It allowed him to rest, hydrate, and be prepared for an emergency — a lifesaving move.

Criticism also arose around Krakauer’s alleged omission of crucial information regarding weather forecasts. Detractors argue that his account failed to acknowledge that the team members received accurate daily weather forecasts and knew about the impending storm.

In the 1999 paperback edition of “Into Thin Air,” Krakauer addressed these criticisms in a detailed postscript. He underscored the book’s role as a space for continued dialogue and reflection on the fateful 1996 Everest disaster.

The Cinematic Journey of “Into Thin Air”

Jon Krakauer‘s “Into Thin Air” is a pinnacle in the gripping world of high-altitude survival literature. Sony procured the film rights shortly after the book’s publication, underscoring the tale’s powerful resonance. The 1997 movie, “Into Thin Air: Death on Everest”, features Peter Horton and Christopher McDonald as Fischer and Krakauer, respectively. The book and the film echo similar editorial viewpoints regarding the tragic event’s underlying causes. However, specific details concerning responsibility diverge noticeably in the on-screen adaptation.

In 2015, another cinematic depiction of the same ill-fated expedition emerged. Director Baltasar Kormákur’s “Everest” recreated the harrowing events with Michael Kelly portraying Krakauer. Intriguingly, despite the parallel narratives, Kormákur asserted that his film did not draw inspiration from Krakauer’s book.

A testament to its evocative storytelling, “Everest” attracted a stellar ensemble cast, including Jason Clarke, Jake Gyllenhaal, Josh Brolin, and Keira Knightley. The film highlights the desperate survival attempts of two expedition groups Rob Hall and Scott Fischer led. It essentially offers another lens to view the 1996 Mount Everest disaster.

The 72nd Venice International Film Festival premiered “Everest” on September 2, 2015, before it hit theatres worldwide. First released in IMAX 3D in the UK, the film was later shown in various formats across the globe. With a return of $203 million against a $55 million budget, the film’s success mirrored the critical acclaim it received. This offered yet another testament to the enduring resonance of the tragic Everest expedition in 1996.

Krakauer’s Everest Narrative

Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer – © WikiCommons

In the wake of his account of the catastrophic Everest expedition, Jon Krakauer confronted the distress stirred among the bereaved by his article in “Outside” Magazine. Despite intending to recount the tragic event comprehensively, Krakauer’s words unintentionally inflicted pain on grieving people.

Recognizing this, Krakauer conveyed his profound apologies, maintaining his aim was to depict the realities of the dangerous expedition, not to exacerbate the wounds of those affected. Simultaneously, he extended his sincere condolences to the extensive list of those impacted by the incident and expressed gratitude to those who lent their support. This reflection demonstrates the precarious balance in narrating such impactful stories, acknowledging the possible pain inflicted and the essential nature of sharing the daunting journey on Everest.

Mount Everest: the World’s Highest Peak

July 13, 2023 by endorfeen

Mount Everest, revered as Sagarmāthā in Nepali, Chomolungma in Tibetan, and named 珠穆朗玛峰 (Zhūmùlǎngmǎ Fēng) in Chinese, stands as the apex of our planet, the zenith above sea level. Nestled within the rugged contours of the Mahalangur Himal sub-range of the Himalayas, this formidable peak serves as a stark and magnificent reminder of nature’s supremacy, with the China-Nepal border slicing across its icy crest. An elevation of 8,848.86 m (29,031 ft 8+1⁄2 in), affirmed in 2020 by Chinese and Nepali authorities, underscores its stature as Earth’s highest summit.

Notwithstanding its grandeur, Mount Everest is an emblem of both the allure and the perils inherent in high-altitude mountaineering. Its towering heights draw a spectrum of climbers, from eager amateurs to the most seasoned mountaineers. Two chief routes challenge these adventurers – the “standard route” hailing from the southeast in Nepal and its counterpart emerging from the north in Tibet. While the standard route does not present major technical challenges, climbers must confront and endure altitude sickness, capricious weather and wind conditions, and risks from avalanches and the notorious Khumbu Icefall. As of 2022, the mountain has claimed the lives of 310 climbers, with over 200 bodies still tethered to its treacherous slopes.

The narrative of the human endeavour to conquer Everest begins with British mountaineers, who, restricted by Nepal’s closed borders, pursued the summit from the north ridge route on the Tibetan side. From the initial reconnaissance in 1921, the British expeditions gradually scaled new heights by reaching 7,000 m (22,970 ft). The 1922 expedition marked the first time a human climbed above 8,000 m (26,247 ft). This saga of resilience and exploration further deepened with the 1924 expedition, embedding one of Everest’s enduring mysteries – the fate of George Mallory and Andrew Irvine, who vanished during their final summit attempt.

It was only in 1953 that the peak was definitively conquered, with Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay ascending the southeast ridge. Norgay had previously reached 8,595 m (28,199 ft) with the 1952 Swiss expedition. The Chinese mountaineers, Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua, etched their names into the history of Everest as the first to ascend from the north ridge on 25 May 1960. This storied history and the rugged allure of Mount Everest continue to beckon adventurers from around the globe, challenging them to pit their mettle against its icy grandeur.

General outline
  • Mount Everest: Names and Legends of the World’s Highest Peak
  • Beyond the Summit: Surprising Facts About Mount Everest’s Height
  • Conquering the Roof of the World: Historic Expeditions
  • Conquering Everest: Challenges and Triumphs Across Seasons and Altitudes
  • Everest Commercialization: Costs, Controversies, and Challenges
  • Extreme Everest: A Playground for High-Altitude Sports
  • Environmental Crisis: Impact of Commercial Climbing
  • Everest’s Ecosystem: Flora and Fauna at High Altitudes
  • Climate and Meteo on Mount Everest

Mount Everest: Names and Legends of the World’s Highest Peak

Famed as the highest peak on Earth, Mount Everest is known by various names across different cultures. Among these, the Tibetan moniker Qomolangma or Chomolungma, meaning “Holy Mother”, holds historical prominence. This name was first transcribed in Chinese in the Kangxi Atlas during the reign of Emperor Kangxi, in 1721, making its Western debut on a 1733 Parisian map by French geographer D’Anville.

In Chinese, the majestic peak is formally known as 珠穆朗玛峰, with the pinyin transcription reading as Zhūmùlǎngmǎ Fēng. While alternative Chinese names like Shèngmǔ Fēng (“Holy Mother Peak”) have existed, a 1952 decree from China’s Ministry of Internal Affairs consolidated the use of a single name, favouring the official transcription.

However, the narrative of Everest’s name is intertwined with colonial history, largely influenced by the British survey’s intent to uphold local nomenclature, as seen with peaks like Kangchenjunga and Dhaulagiri. The British Surveyor General of India, Andrew Waugh, found this endeavour challenging due to the exclusion of foreigners by Nepal and Tibet, alongside the multitude of local names. Waugh proposed naming the peak after his predecessor, British surveyor Sir George Everest, resulting in the title “Mount Everest” being officially adopted by the Royal Geographical Society in 1865, despite Sir George’s objections. Intriguingly, the contemporary pronunciation of “Everest” deviates from Sir George’s original pronunciation of his surname.

Sir George Everes
Sir George Everest – © Wiki Commons

In the 1960s, the Nepali government introduced the name Sagarmāthā, translating to “goddess of the sky” or “the Head in the Great Blue Sky”. This name draws from सगर (sagar), meaning “sky”, and माथा (māthā), meaning “head”.

Other historical names include “Deodungha” (“Holy Mountain”), “Peak XV”, and “Gauri Shankar” or “Gaurisankar”. However, the latter has since been associated with a different peak approximately 30 miles away. The myriad names of Mount Everest reflect the cultural diversity and historic complexity surrounding this towering peak, each narrative adding another layer to its enduring allure.

Beyond the Summit: Surprising Facts About Mount Everest’s Height

Though renowned as the world’s highest peak, Mount Everest, straddling the borders of Nepal and Tibet, doesn’t claim every superlative in the record books. Its summit, towering at 8,849 meters (29,032 feet), indeed holds the title for the highest point above global mean sea level, the average elevation of the ocean’s surface used as a baseline for measuring heights. Yet, intriguingly, Everest’s pinnacle does not stand as the point farthest from Earth’s centre.

Our planet, contrary to the perfect sphere we often envision, exhibits a subtle bulge at the Equator due to the centrifugal force generated by its constant rotation. This equatorial protuberance means that the peak of Ecuador’s Mount Chimborazo, located just one degree south of the Equator, is actually the highest point relative to Earth’s centre. While the apex of Chimborazo only reaches 6,268 meters (20,564 feet) above sea level, its position on the Earth’s bulging midriff situates it over 2,072 meters (6,800 feet) farther from the Earth’s heart than Everest’s summit. As a result, Chimborazo enjoys the unique distinction of being the closest terrestrial point to the stars.

Mount Chimborazo
Mount Chimborazo – © Mateo Coello, Unsplash

Further confounding common perception, Everest does not constitute the tallest mountain on Earth. This accolade goes to Mauna Kea, a majestic volcano nestled on the Big Island of Hawaii. Originating from the depths of the Pacific Ocean, Mauna Kea’s grandeur emerges as it ascends over 10,210 meters (33,500 feet) from base to summit, offering a distinct perspective on our understanding of “height” and “tallness” in the geological realm.

Conquering the Roof of the World: Historic Expeditions

Boasting the highest summit on Earth, Mount Everest stands as an enduring testament to the human spirit’s relentless quest for exploration and achievement. Its commanding stature has consistently drawn the gaze of adventurers and mountaineers, eager to etch their footprints on its icy slopes. The question of whether the peak was surmounted in ancient times, however, remains shrouded in the mists of history, with no definitive evidence to support or refute such ascents.

The allure of Everest reached a poignant climax in 1924 during a daring attempt by George Mallory and Andrew Irvine to reach the elusive summit. Their expedition, steeped in intrigue and speculation, concluded with their tragic disappearance. Despite persistent debate and research, it remains unconfirmed whether the duo succeeded in their audacious quest, transforming their tale into one of mountaineering’s most captivating mysteries.

Mallory

Over decades, the magnetism of Everest has drawn a tapestry of expeditions, each leaving their unique imprint on the mountain. These successive journeys have established several climbing routes, tracing a web of paths through the treacherous terrain. These routes not only mark the historical progression of Everest exploration but also provide critical insights for future climbers, charting a course through the challenges and dangers of the world’s highest peak. From its initial obscurity to its contemporary renown, Mount Everest continues to evoke a sense of awe and challenge, calling forth generations of climbers to test their mettle against its formidable heights.

The Pursuit of the World’s Highest Summit

Ever since the inaugural documented ascent of Mount Everest in 1953, the mountain has remained an irresistible beacon for mountaineers. However, the high-altitude citadel surrendered its summit sparingly in the early decades, with just about 200 climbers breaching its zenith by 1987. These years were marked by strenuous endeavours by professional climbers and large-scale national expeditions, a trend that endured until the advent of commercial expeditions in the 1990s.

As the turn of the century approached, the frequency of successful ascents began to rise. By March 2012, Everest had been summited 5,656 times, albeit with 223 fatalities, reflecting the inherent risks of such high-altitude pursuits. Despite being less technically demanding compared to certain lower mountains, Everest’s altitude brings it within reach of the jet stream, subjecting climbers to potential winds exceeding 320 km/h (200 mph). While shifts in the jet stream provide periods of relative calm at certain times of the year, the mountain’s environment remains treacherously unpredictable, with blizzards and avalanches posing constant threats.

Nevertheless, the allure of Everest’s summit has proven undeterred. The Himalayan Database, by 2013, had logged 6,871 successful ascents by 4,042 distinct climbers. These statistics bear testimony to the enduring fascination with conquering the world’s highest peak and the indomitable human spirit that spurs on each attempt to reach the roof of the world.

Early Attempts, Forging the Path: Pioneering Expeditions and the Road to Everest’s Conquest

The journey towards conquering Mount Everest commenced in 1885, when Clinton Thomas Dent, the president of the Alpine Club, proposed the idea of ascending the peak in his book “Above the Snow Line”. Yet, it was not until 1921 that the first significant strides were made, courtesy of George Mallory and Guy Bullock during the inaugural British Reconnaissance Expedition. They discovered the northern approach to Everest, ascending to 7,005 metres (22,982 ft) on the North Col. While Mallory envisioned a potential route to the summit, the party lacked the equipment to venture higher.

Determined, the British returned in 1922, equipped with groundbreaking oxygen gear. George Finch, utilizing this equipment, scaled an astonishing 290 metres (951 ft) per hour, reaching a height of 8,320 m (27,300 ft) – the first reported ascent beyond the 8,000 m threshold. Further attempts by Mallory and Col. Felix Norton, however, did not yield success.

Undeterred, another British expedition was launched in 1924. While initial attempts were thwarted by adverse weather, Norton and T. Howard Somervell managed to ascend to 8,550 m (28,050 ft), sans oxygen, under optimal weather conditions. Then, Mallory, joined by Andrew Irvine and equipped with oxygen apparatus, embarked on a fateful ascent on 8 June 1924, from which neither climber returned. Mallory’s body was found in 1999, triggering debates on whether they had successfully summited before their demise, nearly three decades before Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay’s confirmed conquest of Everest.

In the early 1930s, expeditions continued, marked by endeavours such as the Houston Everest Flight in 1933, funded by British millionairess Lady Houston, which witnessed a formation of two aircraft flying over Everest’s summit. Access from the northern side was closed to Western expeditions in 1950 following China’s control over Tibet, prompting exploratory ventures through Nepal. This led to the formation of what is now the standard southern approach to Everest.

In 1952, Edouard Wyss-Dunant led the significant Swiss Mount Everest expedition through that route. The Swiss team forged a route through the Khumbu icefall, ascending to the South Col at 7,986 m (26,201 ft). Raymond Lambert and Sherpa Tenzing Norgay set a new altitude record by reaching about 8,595 m (28,199 ft) on the southeast ridge. Despite their ultimate retreat due to harsh winter winds, the expedition’s experiences, particularly those of Norgay, would prove instrumental in the successful 1953 British expedition. Thus, the early expeditions, laced with courage, innovation, and resilience, gradually demystified Everest, paving the way for its eventual conquest.

Triumph at the Summit: Hillary and Tenzing’s Historic Conquest

In the annals of mountaineering, the year 1953 marks a landmark moment. This was the year when the 9th British expedition. Led by John Hunt, it returned to Nepal, poised for a fresh attempt on Mount Everest’s summit. Hunt identified two climbing duos for the summit assault. Charles Evans and Tom Bourdillon launched their ambitious climb on 26 May 1953. Despite their valiant efforts, they were forced to retreat a mere 100 m (330 ft) from the summit, grappling with oxygen difficulties. Their pathfinding efforts and strategically placed oxygen caches, however, would prove invaluable for the subsequent pair.

Edmund Hillary
Edmund Hillary – © Nationaal Archief, Unsplash

Two days later, Edmund Hillary, a New Zealander, and Tenzing Norgay, a Nepali Sherpa, embarked on their journey towards the summit, following the South Col route. Their painstaking efforts culminated in triumph on the morning of May 29th, 1953, as they stood atop the world’s highest peak. In the spirit of camaraderie that marked the expedition, they celebrated their achievement as a collective victory. Yet, it was later revealed by Tenzing that it was Hillary who had first set foot on the summit. They commemorated their success by taking photographs and leaving behind a few sweets and a small cross in the snow.

Hillary and Norgay
Hillary and Norgay – © Wiki Commons

The news of their historic ascent reached London on 2 June, coinciding with Queen Elizabeth II’s coronation. Following the euphoria of their achievement, Hunt and Hillary were knighted by the Queen, while Tenzing was awarded the George Medal. In time, Hunt was made a life peer in Britain, and Hillary was included as a founding member of the Order of New Zealand. Both Hillary and Tenzing were honoured in Nepal with statues and the christening of Hillary Peak and Tenzing Peak in their memory, underscoring the lasting legacy of their monumental feat. Their triumph ushered in a new era of high-altitude exploration, etching their names into the saga of Everest, forever synonymous with the audacity of human endeavour.

1950s–1960s – Expanding Horizons: Diverse Climbing Expeditions

Following the historic 1953 ascent, Mount Everest continued to captivate the global mountaineering community throughout the 1950s and 1960s. A flurry of successful summit bids added to the growing legacy of this formidable peak. Ernst Schmied and Juerg Marmet claimed their place in the annals of the Everest conquests on May 23rd, 1956. Their achievement was echoed a year later, on 24 May 1957, by Dölf Reist and Hans-Rudolf von Gunten, further asserting Everest’s allure to climbers worldwide.

The 1960s saw fresh milestones on the Everest timeline. On 25 May 1960, the Chinese trio of Wang Fuzhou, Gonpo, and Qu Yinhua accomplished the first reported ascent from the North Ridge, marking a significant achievement for Asian mountaineering.

Everest’s appeal transcended continents, as demonstrated on 1 May 1963, when Jim Whittaker became the first American to stand atop the world’s highest peak. Accompanied by Nawang Gombu, their ascent carved a new chapter in Everest’s history, extending the roll call of successful climbers to include the United States. Through these ventures, Mount Everest’s reputation as the ultimate mountaineering challenge was reaffirmed, inspiring a generation of climbers and underlining its status as an iconic symbol of human endeavour and resilience.

Explorations and Triumphs: Unforgettable Feats on Mount Everest in the 1970s

The 1970s ushered in a dynamic period of exploration on Mount Everest, marked by a series of remarkable exploits and a fair share of adversity. In 1970, a Japanese expedition led by Saburo Matsukata embarked on an audacious mission to carve out a new route up the formidable southwest face of Everest. The large-scale venture, characterised by a “siege”-style approach, saw over a hundred participants striving to conquer the peak. Despite a decade of meticulous planning, the expedition was unfortunately marred by eight fatalities and failed to reach the summit via the intended routes.

Saburo Matsukata
Saburo Matsukata – © Wiki Commons

Nonetheless, the Japanese expedition was not without its triumphs. In a breathtaking display of daring, Yuichiro Miura became the first person to ski down Everest from the South Col, descending nearly 1,300 vertical metres (4,200 ft) before suffering severe injuries. Furthermore, another contingent successfully summited via the South Col route. Miura’s adrenaline-charged descent was captured in a film, and he subsequently set records as the oldest person to summit Everest in 2003 and 2013, at ages 70 and 80, respectively.

1975 was a landmark year on Everest, as Junko Tabei, another Japanese mountaineer, etched her name into history as the first woman to conquer the summit. That same year, the British Mount Everest Southwest Face expedition, helmed by Chris Bonington, marked the first successful ascent of Everest’s southwest face from the western cwm.

In 1976, the British and Nepalese Army Expedition, led by Tony Streather, saw Bronco Lane and Brummy Stokes reach the peak following the conventional route.

Yet another feat was achieved in 1978 when Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler ascended Everest without supplemental oxygen, a pioneering achievement that redefined the boundaries of high-altitude mountaineering. The bold ventures and awe-inspiring achievements of the 1970s served to further highlight Mount Everest as a beacon of human endurance and adventurous spirit.

Breaking Barriers: The Historic Winter Ascent of Mount Everest in 1980

As the 1970s drew to a close, the focus of mountaineering shifted to a new challenge: Winter Himalaism. Pioneering this realm was the Polish climber Andrzej Zawada, who led the inaugural winter ascent of Mount Everest in 1980, marking the first successful winter climb of an eight-thousander. The intrepid team, comprising 20 Polish climbers and 4 Sherpas, established their base camp on the Khumbu Glacier in the opening days of January.

Despite establishing Camp III at 7,150 metres above sea level by 15 January, their progress was stymied by hurricane-force winds. A break in the weather after 11 February allowed Leszek Cichy, Walenty Fiut, and Krzysztof Wielicki to set up Camp IV on the South Col at an elevation of 7,906 metres. On 17 February, Cichy and Wielicki embarked on their summit bid. By 2:40 pm, their triumphant voices echoed over the radio at base camp, “We are on the summit! The strong wind blows all the time. It is unimaginably cold.”

This pioneering winter ascent of Mount Everest heralded the advent of a new era in mountaineering, with Winter Himalaism becoming a forte of Polish climbers. Throughout the 1980s, Polish teams achieved an impressive ten first winter ascents of 8000-metre peaks, earning them the moniker of “Ice Warriors”. Their endeavours revolutionised high-altitude climbing, introducing a new dimension of challenge and resilience in the face of Everest’s brutal winter conditions.

Avalanche Tragedy on Mount Everest: The Lho La Incident of 1989

The history of Mount Everest is punctuated with triumphs and tragedies, and one such tragic event unfolded in May 1989. This year bore witness to an international expedition led by the Polish climber Eugeniusz Chrobak, which aimed to conquer the mountain’s formidable western ridge. The expedition comprised ten Polish climbers and nine international participants, although as the climb progressed, only the Polish team members pursued the ultimate goal.

The Lho La Col
The Lho La Col – © Wiki Commons

On 24 May, against significant odds, Chrobak and fellow climber Andrzej Marciniak launched their summit bid from Camp V, situated at an altitude of 8,200 m. Overcoming the daunting ridge, they successfully reached the summit. However, their triumph was marred by a tragic turn of events. On 27 May, an avalanche originating from Khumbutse near the Lho La pass claimed the lives of four Polish climbers: Mirosław Gardzielewski, Mirosław Dąsal, Wacław Otręba, and Zygmunt Andrzej Heinrich. Chrobak, who had sustained injuries, succumbed the following day.

Avalanche on Everest, 2006
Avalanche on Everest, 2006 – © Wiki Commons

Despite the disastrous circumstances, a glimmer of hope emerged when an international rescue operation was organised. The injured Marciniak was saved by a rescue team comprising Artur Hajzer, Gary Ball, Rob Hall, and others. Notable personalities like Reinhold Messner, Elizabeth Hawley, Carlos Carsolio, and the US consul also contributed to the organisation of the rescue operation. The Lho La tragedy stands as a sobering reminder of the inherent risks of high-altitude mountaineering, underscoring the extreme challenges that Everest poses even to the most experienced climbers.

The 1996 Everest Tragedy: Peril and Resilience on the Roof of the World

The allure of Mount Everest has often been juxtaposed with its inherent dangers, with the tragedy that struck in May 1996 standing out as one of the mountain’s deadliest episodes. On 10 and 11 May, a sudden blizzard trapped several guided expeditions high on Everest during their summit attempt. Eight climbers tragically lost their lives, and the season’s overall death toll reached 15, the highest for any single weather event and single season until the catastrophic avalanche in 2014.

This disaster brought the commercialisation of climbing and the safety protocols of guided expeditions on Everest into sharp focus. Jon Krakauer, a journalist who was part of one of the guided parties, penned the bestselling book “Into Thin Air“, providing a first-hand account of the event. Krakauer’s critical portrayal of guide Anatoli Boukreev sparked controversy and spurred Boukreev to co-author “The Climb” as a rebuttal, leading to a significant debate within the climbing community. For his rescue efforts, Boukreev was posthumously awarded The American Alpine Club’s David Sowles Award.

Rob Hall. Photo: Colin Monteath
Rob Hall – © Colin Monteath

Researchers Kent Moore and John L. Semple analysed the weather conditions on 11 May, suggesting that oxygen levels fell by an estimated 14% due to the storm. Among the survivors was Beck Weathers, who incredibly managed to return to Camp 4 despite severe frostbite and snow blindness. After a night on the mountain, he was left in a tent, as his condition was considered terminal. Yet, in a testament to human resilience, Weathers survived and was eventually evacuated by a Nepali Army helicopter, an extraordinary feat considering the high altitude of Camp 4.

The North Ridge of Everest was also heavily impacted by the storm, with several climbers losing their lives. Detailed accounts of the event emerged in various formats, from Matt Dickinson’s “The Other Side of Everest” to Mark Pfetzer’s “Within Reach: My Everest Story”. The harrowing ordeal was further brought to life in the 2015 feature film “Everest” directed by Baltasar Kormákur, underscoring the perilous nature of Everest expeditions and the indomitable human spirit in the face of life-threatening adversity.

Ethics and Survival: The Controversy of David Sharp and the Miraculous Rescue of Lincoln Hall on Mount Everest, 2006

The 2006 mountaineering season on Mount Everest stands out as a year of stark contrasts, marked by both deep tragedies and improbable survivals. A total of twelve climbers lost their lives that year, one of the highest death tolls on record. One death, in particular, cast a long shadow over the season and ignited an international debate about the ethics of high-altitude climbing, sparking discussions that would continue for years. However, amid these unfortunate fatalities, an inspiring tale of survival emerged. Lincoln Hall, an Australian climber, was left for dead by his own team only to be discovered alive the following day. His remarkable rescue off the mountain served as a poignant reminder of human resilience in the face of Everest’s formidable challenges.

David Sharp
David Sharp

Controversial Solo Ascent: The Tragic Death of David Sharp and the Ethical Debate on Mount Everest, 2006

The 2006 mountaineering season on Mount Everest was marred by a tragic event that spurred an international debate on climbing ethics. The heart of the controversy centred around the death of David Sharp, a British climber who attempted the daring feat solo, resulting in fatal consequences.

The Solo Summit Attempt

Sharp embarked on his expedition with fewer oxygen bottles than considered typical for a summit attempt, declining the assistance of a Sherpa or guide. Opting for the services of a low-budget Nepali guide firm, Sharp received support only until Base Camp, beyond which he was part of a “loose group,” ensuring a significant degree of independence. The manager of Sharp’s guide support noted his lack of sufficient oxygen for the summit attempt and the absence of a Sherpa guide, factors contributing to the tragic outcome. On 15 May 2006, suffering from hypoxia, Sharp was believed to be in trouble, roughly 300 meters from the summit on the North Side route.

A Climbing Community in Conflict

Double-amputee climber Mark Inglis and his climbing party, along with numerous others, reported passing by Sharp, who was taking shelter under a rock overhang. This sparked widespread debate, as Sharp might have been overlooked, with climbers presuming he was the previously deceased climber known as “Green Boots“. Inglis’s comments were later revised, attributing initial inaccuracies to physical and mental exhaustion, along with the pain from severe frostbite, which later led to the amputation of five of his fingertips.

The controversy was exacerbated by reports of an attempted rescue by Dawa from Arun Treks, who had given Sharp oxygen and tried to assist him for approximately an hour. Despite these efforts, Sharp’s condition deteriorated to the point where he could not stand alone or even lean on Dawa’s shoulders, leading Dawa to leave him behind.

Media Spotlight and Aftermath

The tragedy unfolded under the spotlight of international media and elicited strong reactions from the mountaineering community. The incident sparked an introspective dialogue about the duty of climbers to aid fellow mountaineers in distress.

The story was widely covered by the Discovery Channel in the program “Everest: Beyond the Limit,” which featured a crucial decision affecting Sharp’s fate. Lebanese climber Maxim Chaya, upon discovering a frostbitten and unconscious climber in distress, communicated the situation to his base camp manager, Russell Brice. Unable to identify the unresponsive climber as Sharp, who was attempting the climb solo without any support, Chaya was advised that there was no chance of him helping Sharp alone.

As Sharp’s condition worsened throughout the day, his rescue prospects diminished. His frostbitten legs and feet curled, rendering him incapable of walking, and the descending climbers passing by him were low on oxygen and lacked the strength to provide assistance. Eventually, time ran out for any potential Sherpa rescue.

The memory of David Sharp endures on Everest. His body, along with that of the unidentified “Green Boots“, once shared a space in a small rock cave serving as an improvised tomb. The tragedy of David Sharp’s death remains a stark reminder of the ruthless environment of Mount Everest and the ethical challenges it presents to those who dare to scale its heights.

Miraculous Rescue: Lincoln Hall’s Astonishing Survival on Mount Everest, 2006

Just as the climbing world was grappling with the ethics controversy surrounding the death of David Sharp in May 2006, a remarkable event transpired on Mount Everest that served as a beacon of hope. Australian climber Lincoln Hall, who had been left for dead on the mountainside the day before, was found alive.

An Unexpected Encounter

On the fateful morning of 26 May 2006, a team of four climbers – Dan Mazur, Andrew Brash, Myles Osborne, and Jangbu Sherpa – encountered Hall at an altitude of 28,200 feet with no gloves, hat, oxygen bottles, or sleeping bag. Mazur, the team leader, expressed his disbelief upon finding Hall just sitting there at the break of dawn. Sacrificing their own summit attempt, they elected to stay with Hall, marking the start of an incredible rescue mission.

Hall’s initial response to his rescuers was one of quiet acceptance. He greeted his fellow climbers simply with, “I imagine you are surprised to see me here.” His calm demeanour belied the severity of his situation. His team had assumed he had succumbed to cerebral oedema, a potentially fatal altitude sickness that causes brain swelling. With no rocks in the vicinity to cover him as instructed, he was left abandoned, and the erroneous information about his demise was passed on to his family.

The Rescue and Aftermath

The group of four climbers, in conjunction with a rescue team of 11 Sherpas dispatched from below, carefully descended with Hall, ensuring his survival. Against all odds, Hall made a full recovery, living to share his near-death experience on Mount Everest with audiences worldwide.

His miraculous survival story served as a stark contrast to the tragedy that unfolded during the same season on Everest, shedding light on the extreme challenges and ethical dilemmas encountered in high-altitude mountaineering. Hall continued to talk about his experience and the importance of survival instincts and teamwork in the unforgiving conditions of Mount Everest until his death in 2012, at the age of 56, from unrelated medical issues. His story is a testament to the power of human resilience and the indomitable spirit of survival.

2007: Everest’s Record Ascents, Rescue Heroism, and Challenges of Overcrowding

The 2007 mountaineering season on Mount Everest was marked by notable ascents and successful rescues, alongside an ongoing examination of the risks climbers faced. A pivotal moment came on 21 May when Meagan McGrath, a Canadian climber, initiated the successful high-altitude rescue of Nepali climber Usha Bista. McGrath’s quick response and humanitarian act later earned her the 2011 Sir Edmund Hillary Foundation of Canada Humanitarian Award.

The popularity of Everest expeditions showed no signs of waning in 2007, with the mountain experiencing a record number of 633 ascents, accomplished by 350 climbers and 253 Sherpas. This marked a tremendous growth in Everest climbing, with 77 per cent of all ascents occurring since the turn of the millennium.

Bottleneck on Everest
Bottleneck on Everest – © National Geographic

The 2007 season also underscored the potential challenges of overcrowding on Everest. Comparing the 1996 disaster, where a then-unusual number of 33 to 36 climbers attempting to summit on the same day contributed to fatal delays, the number of climbers has increased dramatically. For instance, on 23 May 2010, the summit was reached by a staggering 169 climbers, more than the total number of summits from 1953 through 1983.

However, this popularity brought an inevitable toll. Up to the end of 2010, there had been 219 fatalities recorded on Mount Everest, a rate of 4.3 deaths for every 100 summits. Despite a decrease in fatality rates since the year 2000, the sheer increase in the total number of climbers resulted in 54 fatalities from 2000 to 2010.

The route to the summit also proved to be a point of interest during this period. Two main routes are generally used, their popularity varying from year to year. The more challenging but less costly northeast route attracted more than half of all climbers from 2005 to 2007. However, closures by the Chinese government in 2008 and 2009 for political reasons saw a decrease in its usage. By 2010, the majority of climbers, two-thirds in fact, opted to ascend via the southern route.

The 2010s on Everest: Records, Setbacks, and the Unyielding Allure

The 2010s on Mount Everest witnessed a whirlwind of contrasts, from new records set to unprecedented challenges. While this decade for Everest brought an influx of climbers eager to conquer the peak, it was also marred by back-to-back disasters that resulted in record fatalities in 2013 and 2014.

For the first time in decades, 2015 saw a barren year without any successful ascents. This unique occurrence stood as a stark reminder of the unforgiving nature of the world’s highest peak and the capriciousness of the conditions that could stall even the most ambitious expeditions.

However, despite the setbacks, the lure of Everest remained undiminished. In a testament to the enduring allure of the mountain, the later part of the decade saw an influx of climbers achieving the coveted summit. The record set in 2013 for the number of successful ascents, standing at around 667, was toppled five years later when approximately 800 climbers managed to reach the peak in 2018.

The allure of Everest remained strong, and its attraction was only heightened in the following year. The record set in 2018 was promptly broken the very next year, with more than 890 climbers reaching the summit in 2019. These figures underscored the ongoing fascination with Mount Everest, demonstrating the determination of adventurers to test their limits against the awe-inspiring challenge of the world’s highest peak.

The 2014 Season: Tragedy, Triumphs, and Unyielding Spirit

A tragic avalanche and exceptional ascents marked the 2014 season on Mount Everest. An avalanche that struck just below Base Camp 2 in the early hours of 18 April was one of the deadliest incidents in the mountain’s history. The avalanche hit at around 01:00 UTC (06:30 local time) at an elevation of approximately 5,900 metres (19,400 ft). It claimed the lives of 16 Nepali guides and inflicted injuries on an additional nine individuals, casting a sombre shadow over the climbing season.

In the face of such adversity, a few climbers nonetheless made their mark. The season saw the youngest female climber, a 13-year-old girl named Malavath Purna, conquer the summit. Her accomplishment served as an inspiring testament to determination and youthful audacity.

An inventive approach to tackling the mountain was seen when one team used a helicopter to fly from the South Base Camp to Camp 2, bypassing the treacherous Khumbu Icefall. A member of this team, Jing Wang, who was compelled to use the south side after the Chinese authorities denied them a permit to climb, generously donated US$30,000 to a local hospital. In recognition of her significant contribution, she was honoured as the Nepali “International Mountaineer of the Year”.

Despite the season’s grim beginning, more than 100 climbers still reached the summit from China’s Tibet region, and six ascents were recorded from Nepal. The successful summiters included 72-year-old Bill Burke, the young Indian climber Malavath Purna, and Jing Wang from China. Ming Kipa Sherpa, another young female climber, who had previously reached the summit with her elder sister Lhakpa Sherpa in 2003, also returned. Lhakpa Sherpa had by then distinguished herself by summiting Mount Everest more times than any other woman at that time.

A Season of Devastation: The 2015 Earthquake and Avalanche on Everest

The 2015 climbing season on Mount Everest was set to be a record-breaker, with permits for ascents issued in their hundreds in both Nepal and Tibet. Yet, Mother Nature had other plans. On 25 April 2015, a powerful earthquake measuring 7.8 Mw struck, triggering a deadly avalanche that engulfed Everest Base Camp. This catastrophic event led to the death of 18 climbers; their bodies were later recovered by an Indian Army mountaineering team. The avalanche, initiated on Pumori, travelled through the Khumbu Icefall on Everest’s southwest side and devastated the South Base Camp.

Base Camp Nepalese Side
Base Camp Nepal side – © Wiki Commons

The catastrophe caused the Everest climbing season to come to an abrupt halt, marking 2015 as the first year since 1974 with no successful spring summits. All climbing teams were compelled to withdraw due to the substantial risk of aftershocks, which the United States Geological Survey estimated at over 50 per cent. This prediction proved accurate when the region was rocked once again by a 7.3 magnitude quake just weeks later, accompanied by numerous significant aftershocks.

The aftermath of the earthquakes was chaotic. Hundreds of climbers found themselves stranded above the Khumbu Icefall, and as supplies dwindled, they had to be evacuated by helicopter. The quake had altered the route through the icefall, making it virtually impassable. Complicating matters further, adverse weather conditions often hampered the helicopter evacuation efforts.

However, the Everest tragedy was minor compared to the devastation wrought across Nepal, where nearly 9,000 people perished and approximately 22,000 were injured. By 28 April, at least 25 people had died, with 117 injured, in Tibet. The Tibet Mountaineering Association, by 29 April 2015, closed Everest and other peaks to climbing, leaving 25 teams and about 300 people stranded on the mountain’s north side. On the south side, helicopters rescued 180 people marooned at Camps 1 and 2.

A Season of Triumph and Tragedy: The 2019 Climbing Season on Mount Everest

The 2019 pre-monsoon climbing window on Mount Everest was a season of notable triumphs and tragedies. The untimely deaths of several climbers marked this period, and media worldwide published startling images of hundreds of mountaineers caught in queues to reach the summit. Reports of climbers stepping over deceased climbers shocked audiences globally.

Before the main Everest climbing season, various winter expeditions to other peaks in the Himalayas created a buzz, including those to K2, Nanga Parbat, and Meru. Among these, renowned climber Cory Richards announced plans to establish a new route to Everest’s summit in 2019. Another intriguing expedition aimed to remeasure the height of Everest, particularly in the aftermath of the 2015 earthquakes.

By early April, teams from around the globe started arriving for the 2019 spring climbing season. These included a scientific expedition to study pollution, as well as the impact of factors like snow and vegetation on the availability of food and water in the region. On the Nepali side alone, about 40 teams, comprised of approximately 400 climbers and hundreds of guides, attempted to summit. Nepal issued 381 climbing permits that year, while authorities in Chinese Tibet granted several hundred additional permits for the northern routes.

The season saw Nepali mountaineering guide, Kami Rita, making international headlines by summiting Mount Everest twice within a week, marking his 23rd and 24th ascents. His first Everest summit took place in 1994, and he has also climbed other formidable peaks such as K2 and Lhotse.

By 23 May 2019, about seven people had tragically lost their lives, possibly due to the congestion leading to delays high on the mountain and shorter weather windows. By 26 May 2019, the death toll for the spring climbing season had risen to 10. The fatalities increased to 11 by 28 May, and a 12th climber went missing and was presumed dead. Despite these tragedies, the 2019 spring climbing season set a new record with approximately 891 climbers reaching the summit.

The 2019 climbing season, despite various permit restrictions from China and a required doctor’s approval for climbing permits from Nepal, will be remembered for its high death toll, attributed to the natural dangers of climbing and medical complications exacerbated by the extreme altitude of Everest.

Conquering Everest: Challenges and Triumphs Across Seasons and Altitudes

Permits and Restrictions: Navigating the Regulations to Conquer Mount Everest

Climbing Mount Everest, the world’s highest peak requires acquiring the necessary permits issued by the authorities of Nepal and China. In 2014, Nepal issued 334 climbing permits, which were extended until 2019 due to the closure of the mountain. In 2015, Nepal issued 357 permits, but yet again, the mountain was closed due to an avalanche and earthquake. These permits were thus extended for use until 2017.

The consequence of attempting to climb Everest without the required permit can be severe, as evidenced in 2017 when a climber bypassed the Khumbu Icefall without the $11,000 permit. He was apprehended and faced multiple penalties, including a fine of $22,000 and a potential jail term of up to four years. While he was ultimately allowed to return home, he was banned from mountaineering in Nepal for a decade.

The northern side of Everest, located in the Chinese region of Tibet, also mandates the need for permits to summit the peak. Notably, no permits were issued in 2008 due to the Olympic torch relay’s ascent to the summit of Mount Everest.

The year 2020 saw the unprecedented cancellation of all climbing permits for Mount Everest by both China and Nepal due to the COVID-19 pandemic. Despite the restrictions, a group of Chinese mountaineers began an expedition from the Chinese side in April 2020. The mountain remained closed to foreign climbers on the Chinese side. In May 2021, Chinese authorities introduced a separation line on the summit to prevent the potential spread of coronavirus from climbers ascending from Nepal’s side of the mountain.

Two Routes, One Dream: Scaling Mount Everest’s Southeast and North Ridges

The formidable Mount Everest offers climbers a selection of routes towards its summit, with two primary paths standing out – the southeast ridge from Nepal and the north ridge from Tibet. Numerous other paths exist but are less frequently embarked upon. The southeast ridge, considered technically easier, is the more commonly trodden path. This was the route taken by the pioneering mountaineers Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay in 1953. The choice of this route was more a product of political circumstances than design, as the Chinese border was inaccessible to the Western world in the 1950s after the People’s Republic of China invaded Tibet.

The window for most climbing attempts comes in May, just before the onset of the summer monsoon season. During this period, the shifting jet stream mitigates the high wind speeds at the mountain’s summit. While attempts are made in September and October, post-monsoon, the increased snowfall and unstable weather conditions, consequences of the tail end of the monsoons, make the ascent exceedingly challenging.

The Journey Up Everest’s Southeast Ridge: From Base Camp to the Summit

Embarking on a journey via the southeast ridge of Mount Everest commences with a trek to Base Camp, situated at an altitude of 5,380 m (17,700 ft) in Nepal. Initial steps see expeditions fly into Lukla (2,860 m) from Kathmandu before passing through Namche Bazaar. From here, a six to eight-day hike leads climbers to Base Camp, a journey purposefully designed for adequate altitude acclimatisation to help combat altitude sickness. Supplies and climbing equipment are typically transported to the Base Camp on the Khumbu Glacier by yaks, dzopkyos (yak-cow hybrids), and human porters.

Climber on Everest
Everest Summit – © Wiki Commons

Following arrival, climbers spend around two weeks at Base Camp to acclimatise to the high altitude. During this time, Sherpas and some expedition climbers install ropes and ladders across the perilous Khumbu Icefall, one of the most hazardous sections of the route, fraught with crevasses, shifting ice blocks, and towering seracs. To minimise risk, climbers usually initiate their ascent before dawn when freezing temperatures help secure the ice blocks.

Beyond the icefall lies Camp I, perched at an elevation of 6,065 metres (19,900 ft). From this point, climbers navigate up the Western Cwm to the foot of the Lhotse face, where Advanced Base Camp (”ABC”) or Camp II is set up at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). The Western Cwm is a gently rising glacial valley notorious for its immense lateral crevasses that hinder direct access to the upper reaches. As such, climbers are compelled to cross to the far right, towards the base of Nuptse, and pass through a narrow passage known as the “Nuptse corner”.

From ABC, climbers, with the assistance of fixed ropes, ascend the Lhotse face, reaching Camp III, a small ledge at 7,470 m (24,500 ft). It’s a further 500 metres to Camp IV, situated on the South Col at 7,920 m (26,000 ft). Between Camp III and Camp IV, climbers encounter two distinct challenges: the Geneva Spur and the Yellow Band.

Upon reaching the South Col, climbers enter the infamous “death zone”. This altitude is so extreme that climbers can only endure two to three days at most. Any summit attempts must occur within this window, with clear, low-wind weather being vital. If these conditions do not present themselves, climbers are forced to descend, in many cases, as far back as Base Camp.

The summit push typically begins at midnight from Camp IV, aiming to reach the summit within 10 to 12 hours. Climbers encounter a series of formidable obstacles, including the notorious Hillary Step at 8,790 m (28,840 ft). Once above the step, it is a relatively easy climb to the top, albeit with extreme exposure along the ridge, especially while traversing large cornices of snow.

The Hillary Step has become a major bottleneck in recent years due to increasing numbers of climbers, causing delays and subsequent problems with efficient ascents and descents. Beyond the Hillary Step, climbers face a loose, rocky section fraught with tangled fixed ropes. Once surmounted, climbers typically spend less than half an hour at the summit due to rapidly changing afternoon weather, dwindling supplemental oxygen supplies, and the need to reach Camp IV before nightfall.

Scaling the North Ridge: Challenges and Triumphs on Everest’s Tibetan Route

The North Ridge route, commencing from the northern side of Everest in Tibet, starts with an expedition to the Rongbuk Glacier. The base camp is established on a gravel plain just beneath the glacier at an altitude of 5,180 m (16,990 ft). The journey to Camp II involves an ascent of the medial moraine of the east Rongbuk Glacier, arriving at the base of Changtse at approximately 6,100 m (20,000 ft).

Advanced Base Camp (ABC), or Camp III, is located beneath the North Col at 6,500 m (21,300 ft). Climbers scale the glacier to the base of the col, where fixed ropes aid the ascent to the North Col, or Camp IV, at 7,010 m (23,000 ft). From the North Col, the rocky north ridge is ascended to establish Camp V at around 7,775 m (25,500 ft). The route then cuts across the North Face diagonally, leading to the base of the Yellow Band and the location of Camp VI at 8,230 m (27,000 ft). From here, climbers gear up for their final push towards the summit.

One of the major challenges on this route is a treacherous traverse from the base of the First Step, ascending from 8,501 to 8,534 m (27,890 to 28,000 ft), followed by the crucial Second Step, ascending from 8,577 to 8,626 m (28,140 to 28,300 ft). The Second Step is notorious for a climbing aid known as the “Chinese ladder,” a metal structure installed semi-permanently in 1975 by a Chinese climbing party. The ladder has since been a fixture of the climb, used by nearly all climbers who embark on this route.

Beyond the Second Step lies the comparatively minor Third Step, from 8,690 to 8,800 m (28,510 to 28,870 ft). Once surmounted, climbers face the summit pyramid, a 50-degree snow slope, which leads to the final summit ridge and, ultimately, the peak of Mount Everest.

Summit and Beyond: Exploring the Terrain of Mount Everest

The pinnacle of Mount Everest, often compared to the dimensions of a dining room table, is capped with layers of snow over ice over rock. The thickness of the snow varies annually. The rock at the summit is a low-grade metamorphic rock formed of Ordovician limestone.

As one descends from the summit, an area known as the “Rainbow Valley” unfolds. It derives its name from the brightly coloured winter gear adorning the numerous bodies of fallen climbers that lay strewn across the valley. Further down, at about 8,000 m (26,000 ft), lies the ominously named “death zone”. This area is known for its high risk and low oxygen levels due to low atmospheric pressure.

From here, the slopes of Mount Everest descend towards the three principal faces of the mountain: the North Face, the South-West Face, and the East or Kangshung Face. Each of these faces presents a unique and challenging terrain for climbers to navigate in their quest to conquer the world’s highest peak.

The Perils of the Death Zone: Surviving at Extreme Altitudes

The upper reaches of Mount Everest, altitudes beyond 8,000 metres (26,000 ft), known as the death zone, pose significant survival challenges to climbers. Temperatures in this zone can drop significantly, causing severe frostbite on any exposed body part. Certain areas in the death zone are frozen solid, making slipping and falling a tangible risk. Climbers also need to contend with high winds that could become potential hazards.

One of the most critical threats at these elevations is the low atmospheric pressure. At Everest’s summit, the atmospheric pressure is approximately a third of sea level pressure, resulting in only about a third as much available oxygen to breathe. This low oxygen availability makes the journey from South Col to the summit, a distance of 1.72 kilometres (1.07 mi), a gruelling endeavour that can take up to 12 hours. Even this achievement requires prolonged altitude acclimatisation, typically taking 40–60 days for an average expedition. Without acclimatisation, a person from sea level would likely lose consciousness within 2 to 3 minutes at these elevations.

Francys Arsentiev
Francys Arsentiev, Sleeping Beauty

The Caudwell Xtreme Everest medical study in May 2007 evaluated blood oxygen levels at extreme altitudes. Test results showed a decrease in blood oxygen saturation levels even at base camp. At sea level, oxygen saturation is around 98 to 99 per cent, which drops to 85 to 87 per cent at base camp. Tests conducted at the summit indicated dangerously low oxygen levels in the blood, leading to a significantly increased breathing rate, often 80–90 breaths per minute compared to the normal 20–30. This state can lead to exhaustion just from the effort of breathing.

Multiple factors such as oxygen deficiency, exhaustion, extreme cold, and climbing hazards contribute to the death toll on Everest. An injured person who cannot walk faces grave danger, as helicopter rescue is generally unfeasible, and physically carrying the person down is high risk. Bodies of climbers who die during their ascent are usually left on the mountain, and as of 2015, over 200 bodies remain.

A 2008 study pointed out that most deaths occur in the death zone, predominantly during the descent. The risk of falling in this zone is significant but avalanches present a more common danger at lower altitudes. However, even with these risks, by certain measures, Everest is safer than peaks such as Kangchenjunga, K2, Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, and the Eiger, with the overall lethality of a mountain influenced by factors like its popularity, the skill level of climbers, and the difficulty of the climb.

Another potential health risk in the death zone is retinal haemorrhages, which can impair vision and lead to blindness. Up to a quarter of Everest, climbers may experience this condition, which generally heals within weeks upon returning to lower altitudes. However, in one case in 2010, a climber went blind in the death zone and subsequently died.

In this unforgiving environment, rescuing an incapacitated individual can be an insurmountable challenge. One innovative solution was attempted by two Nepali men in 2011, who were forced to paraglide off the summit due to depleted oxygen and supplies. Their high-risk strategy succeeded, and they descended to Namche Bazaar in just 42 minutes, circumventing the perilous climb down.

Oxygen and Everest: The Lifeline and Controversy

The endeavour to conquer Everest is an immense undertaking, and for most climbers, oxygen masks and tanks become indispensable equipment above 8,000 m (26,000 ft). The human capacity for clear thought diminishes with decreasing oxygen levels, a condition that poses serious risks given the harsh weather, biting cold, and steep slopes that often necessitate swift, precise decision-making. While about five per cent of climbers have ascended Everest without supplemental oxygen, the death rate doubles for these audacious individuals.

The use of bottled oxygen in ascending Mount Everest has been controversial since its first application during the 1922 British Mount Everest Expedition. George Finch and Geoffrey Bruce, despite achieving a remarkable ascent rate by employing oxygen, faced criticism from the wider alpine community that deemed the practice unsportsmanlike. Nevertheless, George Mallory, an initial critic of oxygen use, resorted to it during his final attempt in 1953, while Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary also used open-circuit bottled oxygen sets during their first successful summit that same year.

The tradition of using supplemental oxygen was first broken by Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler in 1978, followed by Messner’s solo summit without oxygen or any climbing partners in 1980. This shift in the climbing community opened up the debate about how Everest should be climbed, with many purists insisting on an oxygen-free ascent.

The catastrophic events of the 1996 Everest disaster amplified this debate. Jon Krakauer, in his book “Into Thin Air“, argued that bottled oxygen allowed marginally qualified climbers to attempt the summit, leading to hazardous situations and more fatalities. He proposed banning its use, except in emergencies, to reduce the increasing pollution on Everest’s slopes and the number of potentially unqualified climbers on the mountain.

The disaster also highlighted the guide’s role concerning bottled oxygen. Krakauer criticised guide Anatoli Boukreev’s decision to forego bottled oxygen, though Boukreev’s supporters counterargued that supplemental oxygen gives a false sense of security.

A significant concern tied to low oxygen levels is the resultant cognitive impairment, described as a “delayed and lethargic thought process,” or bradypsychia, which can persist even after descending to lower altitudes. In severe instances, climbers can experience hallucinations, and some studies have found altered brain structure in high-altitude climbers. Research continues on the impacts of high altitude on the brain and the potential for permanent damage.

Autumn Ascents: Conquering Everest’s Perilous Season

While spring is the prime season for Everest expeditions, the mountain has also been conquered in autumn, or the “post-monsoon season.” The autumnal period, however, is regarded as more perilous due to the typically heavy, new snowfall that can lead to instability. Yet, paradoxically, this increased snow also attracts certain winter sports enthusiasts, with skiing and snowboarding attempts becoming increasingly popular.

There are significant historical autumn ascents to note. In 2010, Eric Larsen and his team of five Nepali guides made it to the summit, marking the first autumnal ascent in a decade. Going further back, two Japanese climbers reached their peak in October 1973. Chris Chandler and Bob Cormack of the American Bicentennial Everest Expedition also successfully summited in October 1976, becoming the first Americans to achieve an autumn ascent, as reported by the Los Angeles Times.

In the 1980s, autumn climbing was even more popular than spring expeditions. However, the season is not without its tragedies: U.S. astronaut Karl Gordon Henize, for example, died on an autumn expedition in October 1993 while conducting a radiation experiment, a significant risk factor as background radiation intensifies with altitude.

Winter climbs, while feasible, are rarely undertaken due to the harsh conditions climbers must endure. With 170 mph (270 km/h) winds, average temperatures around −33 °F (−36 °C), and reduced daylight, winter presents the most formidable of Everest’s seasonal challenges.

Everest Commercialization: Costs, Controversies, and Challenges

The Commercialization of Everest: Guided Tours and Financial Realities

The landscape of Everest climbing experienced a transformation in 1985, marking the start of the commercialisation era of Everest. This shift was catalyzed by an expedition led by David Breashears, where Richard Bass, a wealthy 55-year-old businessman with a mere four years of climbing experience, successfully reached the summit. By the early 1990s, numerous companies were capitalising on this commercial trend, offering guided tours to Everest’s peak.

One notable guide was Rob Hall, who, despite his tragic demise in the 1996 disaster, had an illustrious record of guiding 39 clients to the Everest summit. Over the years, the cost of these guided services has escalated, with most ranging from US$35,000 to a staggering US$200,000 by 2016. The price climbs even steeper for those desiring the guidance of a “celebrity guide”—a renowned mountaineer with extensive climbing experience and possibly multiple Everest ascents—exceeding £100,000 in 2015.

However, potential climbers are advised to proceed with caution. Services offered can fluctuate wildly, and the nature of conducting business in Nepal, one of the world’s poorest and least developed countries, necessitates a “buyer beware” mindset. Despite the country grappling with high unemployment, tourism, contributing 7.9 per cent of the GDP in 2019, offers a lifeline for many. Everest holds a unique position in this landscape; porters can earn nearly double the nation’s average wage, providing a crucial income source in a region with few alternatives.

Cost Considerations: The Financial Realities of Climbing Everest

The pursuit of climbing Everest comes with a variety of financial considerations. While it is feasible to ascend with minimal additional expenses, many opt for the services of travel agencies offering logistical support, and even “budget” options exist that provide a stripped-down version of these services. For as little as US$7,000, as of 2007, climbers can avail of a limited support service that includes some meals at base camp and administrative necessities such as obtaining a permit. However, this budget approach is often seen as more difficult and perilous, as illustrated by the case of David Sharp.

The cost of equipment necessary for a successful summit attempt can exceed US$8,000, and most climbers opt to use bottled oxygen, adding approximately US$3,000 to their expenses. Entry permits to the Everest region via Nepal can range from US$10,000 to US$30,000 per person, contingent on the team size. With both base camps situated roughly 100 kilometres (60 miles) from Kathmandu and 300 kilometres (190 miles) from Lhasa, transportation of equipment from these major airport hubs to base camp can add a further expense of up to US$2,000.

Many climbers opt to hire “full service” guide companies, which offer comprehensive packages covering a wide array of services. These can include permit acquisition, transportation to and from base camp, provision of food and tents, setting of fixed ropes, on-mountain medical assistance, the guidance of an experienced mountaineer, and even the services of personal porters to carry backpacks and prepare meals. The cost for such services can range from US$40,000 to $80,000 per person. Engaging such services often allows climbers to maintain their backpack weight below 10 kilograms (22 lbs) as Sherpas transport most equipment. Some even opt to hire a Sherpa to carry their backpacks. This stands in stark contrast to the experiences on less commercialised peaks, such as Denali, where climbers are frequently expected to carry backpacks exceeding 30 kilograms (66 lbs) and occasionally tow a sled loaded with 35 kilograms (77 lbs) of equipment and food.

Controversies of Commercialization: Challenging the Spirit of Mountaineering

The commercialisation of Mount Everest has sparked ongoing controversy in the climbing community. Critics argue that the mountain’s spirit of adventure is being eroded as inexperienced climbers, equipped with ample funds but little knowledge, ascend its slopes. Jamling Tenzing Norgay, son of famed Everest climber Tenzing Norgay, expressed concern over the safety implications and loss of the mountaineering spirit. He criticized the increasing trend of inexperienced climbers relying on paid services to reach the summit, a practice he deems selfish due to the potential endangerment of others’ lives.

A testament to this criticism was the 2012 incident involving Shriya Shah-Klorfine, who paid a new guiding company at least US$40,000 for her summit attempt. Shah-Klorfine had such minimal climbing experience that she had to be taught how to don crampons during her climb. Tragically, she died during her descent after a gruelling 27-hour summit attempt, highlighting the potentially fatal consequences of such ventures.

Reinhold Messner, a renowned mountaineer, echoed this sentiment in 2004, lamenting the transformation of high-altitude alpinism into a form of tourism and spectacle. He argued that real mountaineering necessitated an understanding of the inherent risks and dangers. Messner critiqued the false sense of security provided by commercial expeditions, which promise clients safety with prepared routes, extra oxygen, and full camp services. He expressed concern that these assurances led climbers to disregard the risks, consequently endangering lives and undermining the true essence of mountaineering.

Regulations: Balancing Safety and Accessibility

In the context of the commercialisation and increasing accessibility of Mount Everest, the Nepalese government contemplated new regulations by 2015 to enforce climbers’ experience before attempting the summit. The twin goals of this proposition were to enhance the safety of climbers on Everest’s treacherous slopes and boost the economic revenue of climbing tourism.

Despite this proposition, lower-budget firms often capitalise on taking less experienced climbers at least partway up the mountain. In contrast to Western firms that persuade climbers deemed unfit to retreat, these companies give clients the autonomy to decide, sometimes resulting in inexperienced climbers venturing dangerously high.

Nevertheless, some celebrated mountaineers hold nuanced views of the changing Everest landscape. Edmund Hillary, a renowned Everest climber, admitted his dissatisfaction with paying substantial fees for guided ascents, as he felt it stripped away the essence of mountaineering. Yet he also acknowledged the significant improvements brought to the Everest region by Western influence. His endeavours, in collaboration with Sherpa communities, have led to enhanced local living conditions, including establishing schools, hospitals, medical clinics, bridges, and freshwater pipelines.

Emphasising the imperative of prior high-altitude experience, Richard Bass, an early guided summiter, highlighted the gross underestimation of Everest’s challenges. He cautioned against the misconception of equating the experience of climbing lower peaks like Denali or Aconcagua with that of Everest. According to Bass, the effect of altitude on the human body increases exponentially with height, making the journey to Everest’s summit profoundly more challenging than other mountains.

Extreme Everest: A Playground for High-Altitude Sports

Mount Everest, the pinnacle of the Earth, has served as a captivating stage not only for mountaineering but also for a broad spectrum of adrenaline-charged extreme sports. Enticed by its formidable heights and challenging conditions, daredevils from across the globe have turned to Everest to push the boundaries of snowboarding, skiing, paragliding, and even the audacious act of BASE jumping.

Downhill Daredevils: Skiing and Snowboarding

Pushing the boundaries of extreme sports, adventurers have taken to Mount Everest not just to climb, but to ski and snowboard down its imposing slopes. The first to perform such an audacious feat was Yuichiro Miura in the 1970s. Despite suffering serious injuries, Miura skied nearly 1,300 vertical metres from the South Col, marking the initiation of skiing expeditions on Everest.

The 21st century brought more winter sports enthusiasts to Everest’s challenging terrains. Stefan Gatt and Marco Siffredi carved their snowboarding paths down Everest in 2001, marking another milestone in high-altitude sports. Several daring individuals have attempted skiing descents, including Davo Karničar of Slovenia, who achieved a top-to-south-base-camp descent in 2000, and Kit DesLauriers of the United States, who etched her name in the annals of Everest history in 2006.

The treacherous North Face has also been the stage for daring descents. In 1996, Italian mountaineer Hans Kammerlander skied down this face, followed a decade later by Swede Tomas Olsson and Norwegian Tormod Granheim. Unfortunately, their 2006 joint venture ended in tragedy when Olsson’s anchor broke while rappelling down a cliff in the Norton couloir at around 8,500 metres, resulting in a fatal fall. Granheim, despite the tragedy, continued his descent to Camp III. Similarly, Marco Siffredi, a pioneer in Everest snowboarding, met his untimely demise in 2002 during his second snowboarding expedition. These ventures underscore the enticing allure and inherent dangers of engaging in extreme winter sports at the world’s highest peak.

Airborne Adventures: Gliding and BASE Jumping

Mount Everest has served as a launchpad for several pioneering gliding adventures, adding a new dimension to the exploration of the world’s highest peak. Gliding descents, celebrated for their rapid transit to lower camps, have been gaining popularity amongst the extreme sports community.

In 1986, Steve McKinney etched his name in Everest’s history by becoming the first person to fly a hang-glider off the mountain. Another significant feat followed this bold endeavour in 1988 when Frenchman Jean-Marc Boivin performed the first paraglider descent from Everest. He embarked from the southeast ridge, swiftly descending in mere minutes to a lower camp.

These pioneering efforts inspired further endeavours. In 2011, two Nepali adventurers took to the sky, paragliding from the summit of Everest. They descended a staggering 5,000 metres in 45 minutes, an achievement that demonstrated not only the exhilarating speed of gliding descents but also the boldness of the human spirit.

Adding to the range of aerial adventures, on 5th May 2013, Valery Rozov undertook a daring BASE jump sponsored by Red Bull. Wearing a wingsuit, he leapt off the mountain, setting a record for the world’s highest BASE jump. Everest, thus, continues to be a towering playground for extreme sports, continually pushing the limits of human endurance and audacity.

Environmental Crisis: Impact of Commercial Climbing

Climbing Everest has undoubtedly become a landmark achievement for adventurers worldwide. However, this significant rise in popularity has had severe environmental implications. The president of the Nepal Mountaineering Association reported in 2015 that pollution, particularly human waste, has reached alarming levels, with about 12,000 kg of excrement left on the mountain each season.

These waste materials are often carelessly strewn around sleeping areas and common routes, thus transforming the pristine snowscape into a hazardous field. The situation escalates with the addition of other waste forms like spent oxygen tanks, abandoned tents, and empty cans, contributing to the mountain’s litter issue. To curb this, the Nepalese government now mandates every climber to descend with at least eight kilograms of their waste.

Climber at the summit wearing an oxygen mask
Climber at the summit wearing an oxygen mask – © WikiCommons

Mount Everest’s Base Camp, the buzzing hub of acclimatisation and rest, is the only location where climbers can relieve themselves without contributing to the mountain’s pollution. Expeditions now employ toilets fashioned from large blue plastic barrels, offering some semblance of waste management.

The human footprint on Everest extends beyond the waste left by climbers. Overcrowding during the peak climbing season, which sees more than 600 summit attempts, creates a bottleneck at the summit and along popular routes. Coupled with the high volume of visitors in the Sagarmatha National Park, the natural environment is under enormous strain. Deforestation to accommodate tourists, erosion of footpaths, and a vast quantity of waste jeopardise the park’s status as a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Climate change has further aggravated the issue, with receding snow and ice revealing even more decades-old rubbish. This trash influx poses a significant health risk for residents within the Everest watershed, an essential water source for surrounding communities. With no waste management or sanitation facilities, this watershed is increasingly contaminated, potentially facilitating the spread of deadly waterborne diseases such as cholera and hepatitis A. The Everest ecosystem is reaching a critical point, and preserving this majestic landscape is becoming a monumental challenge in its own right.

Everest’s Ecosystem: Flora and Fauna at High Altitudes

Mount Everest, a natural wonder, is not only renowned for its towering heights but also for the unique ecosystem it nurtures within and around its slopes. The mountain’s lower regions are home to a variety of vegetation, including birch, juniper, blue pines, firs, bamboo, and rhododendron. Interestingly, a particular herb species, Saxifraga lychnitis, identified as the highest-altitude vascular plant, thrives on Everest’s slopes up to an altitude of 21,260 feet (6,480 m).

The rich biodiversity extends to animal life inhabiting areas below 16,400 feet. Species like the musk deer, wild yak, red pandas, snow leopards, and Himalayan black bears can be found. The region also hosts small populations of Himalayan tahrs, langur monkeys, hares, mountain foxes, martens, and Himalayan wolves.

As the altitude increases, life forms become sparse. However, a type of moss found at 6,480 meters and an alpine cushion plant called Arenaria growing below 5,500 meters underscore nature’s resilience. In fact, recent satellite data suggests vegetation expansion in areas previously considered barren.

Mount Everest also hosts the Euophrys omnisuperstes, a tiny black jumping spider found as high as 6,700 meters, likely the highest non-microscopic permanent resident on Earth. The base camp area is home to its cousin, the Euophrys everestensis, which survives on frozen insects carried by the wind.

Even at high altitudes, birds such as the bar-headed goose and the chough have been observed, with the latter spotted at 7,920 meters at the South Col. It’s worth noting that George Lowe, a member of Tenzing and Hillary’s 1953 expedition, reported seeing bar-headed geese flying over Everest’s summit.

Among the most recognized fauna in the region are the yaks, frequently used for hauling gear due to their robust physical adaptations. Other noteworthy species include the Himalayan tahr, prey to snow leopards, and the Himalayan black bear. Red pandas also roam the region, contributing to its biodiversity. Recent expeditions have discovered new species, including a pika and ten new species of ants, indicating that Everest continues to hold fascinating ecological surprises.

Climate and Meteo on Mount Everest

Climate Change: The Imminent Relocation of Base Camp

The climate change impact on Mount Everest is increasingly becoming a concern for expeditions. Khumbu Glacier, the site of the base camp for Nepalese Everest expeditions, is witnessing rapid thinning and destabilization. This progression, driven by climate change, has made the area less safe for climbers. In response, a committee formed by the government of Nepal to oversee mountaineering activities in the Everest region has recommended a shift in the location of the base camp to a lower altitude. Taranath Adhikari, the director general of Nepal’s tourism department, supports this change.

Everest Base Camp
Everest Base Camp – © Wiki Commons

While this move would increase the distance between the base camp and Camp 1, thereby adding to the climbers’ challenge, it would considerably enhance safety. Despite these concerns, the current base camp remains functional for now and could serve its purpose for another three to four years. Nonetheless, as per official sources, a relocation could occur as soon as 2024, highlighting the escalating urgency of climate change considerations in mountaineering operations.

Decoding the Summit’s Weather Mysteries

Mount Everest’s extreme altitude poses unique meteorological challenges, and in 2008, a significant step was taken to understand and monitor these conditions. A new weather station was established at about 8,000 metres (26,000 feet). Initial data recorded in May 2008 included air temperature of -17 °C (1 °F), relative humidity of 41.3%, atmospheric pressure of 382.1 hPa (38.21 kPa), wind direction of 262.8°, wind speed of 12.8 m/s (28.6 mph, 46.1 km/h), and global solar radiation of 711.9 watts/m². This station, orchestrated by the Stations at High Altitude for Research on the Environment (SHARE), runs on solar power and is located on the South Col.

Mt. Everest, Lohtse and Nupse – © Wiki Commons

Mount Everest’s height extends into the upper troposphere and penetrates the stratosphere, with air pressure at the summit typically about one-third of that at sea level. This makes the summit susceptible to the swift and freezing winds of the jet stream, which can reach speeds of 160 km/h (100 mph). A record-breaking wind speed of 280 km/h (175 mph) was observed at the summit in February 2004.

Such powerful winds pose significant hazards to climbers, potentially blowing them into chasms or, through Bernoulli’s principle, further lowering the air pressure and thereby reducing available oxygen by up to 14%. To evade these severe winds, climbers generally aim for a 7 to 10-day window in spring or fall, aligning with the start or end of the Asian monsoon season.

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