Archives for April 2023

The term “rock climbing” can be a bit misleading. It makes the sport sound like a singular activity. When in reality, rock climbing has many different styles. Not including some niche examples of climbing, most climbers would agree that the three most popular styles of climbing are– bouldering, traditional climbing, and sport climbing.

Of the three, I would argue that sport climbing is the most well-known. Sport climbing is where you ascend a single- or multi-pitch route, protecting yourself by clipping your rope into fixed bolts and anchors drilled into the rock, all the while being belayed by your partner.

Keep reading to learn about sport climbing, what separates it from traditional climbing, and for guidance on how to get started.    

Sport vs. Trad Climbing

Traditionally, climbers would place protection equipment into cracks in the wall to protect themselves. This style of climbing is called traditional or trad climbing.

Sport climbing is a newer style first popularized in the 1980s. Sport climbers rely on protection bolts permanently drilled into the rock to protect themselves in the event of a fall instead of trad gear.

With protection bolts, climbers could unlock large swathes of rock that had previously gone unclimbed because they did have cracks for trad gear. 

Due to the “permanent” nature of bolts, sport climbing is often understood as less committing and less risky. However, to be clear– sport climbing, like all forms of climbing, is inherently dangerous. 

Sport climbing is also considered more accessible than trad climbing because the expertise required to operate the equipment, i.e., quickdraws, is much less involved. However, that is not to say that sport climbing is easy. Because of modern climbing technology and bolting techniques, sport climbers continue to evolve the sport with incredibly difficult first ascents.

Lead Climbing vs. Top Roping

When you go sport climbing, you will either be partaking in lead climbing or top roping.

The term leading climbing comes from someone taking the lead, or going first, also known as the lead climber or leader. Lead climbing is when you tie into the climbing rope and bring it up the climb with you, periodically clipping the rope into protection bolts along the way in case you fall. 

When a lead climber reaches the top of a sport climb, they clip their rope into an anchor they build themselves or into the fixed anchor. Then they can be lowered by their belayer or rappel down themselves. 

On the other hand, top roping is when you tie into the climbing rope that is already secured in the anchor at the top of the climb, hence the name, top roping.

Building or threading prebuilt anchors and dropping a rope on a climb to make a top rope can be accomplished from the top of the cliff. However, as I just mentioned, the lead climber who goes first can also set up the top rope by lead climbing.

The risks involved with lead climbing are more significant than top roping because the leader is at risk of taking more significant falls, some of which could result in a ground fall if the leader doesn’t adequately protect themselves or if the belayer makes a mistake.

On the other hand, top roping falls are drastically less severe. Although sometimes they do result in a pendulum swing that could cause safety issues. 

The Essential Gear

Compared to trad climbing, the list of essential gear for sport climbing is shorter. But then again, compared to bouldering, sport climbing requires quite a lot. 

The following list of items is what I consider essential to be an autonomous sport climber. But of course, you can climb with friends and get away with having a lot less (wondering what you need to wear?).

• Helmet
• Harness
• Climbing shoes
• Chalk bag
• Rope
• Quickdraws
• Belay device
• Backpack

Optional Accessories

The items I mentioned above are essential for going sport climbing autonomously. The following items are optional accessories that are not mandatory but that improve your experience while sport climbing. 

• Belay gloves
• Belay glasses
• Climbing tape

Climbing Terminology

If you are new to climbing, you might have felt like the conversations you overheard in the gym or at the crag were from another language. They could have been if you lived in a diverse metropolitan area or were climbing in a well-known destination. 

However, the chances are you were hearing distinct climbing slang and terminology you haven’t mastered yet. Below is a short glossary of terms to jump-start your climbing vocabulary. 

• Beta – advice that another climber provides that assists you in some way, such as how to climb the crux or where the good holds are.
• On-Sight – when you successfully climb a route first try from the ground without seeing it before or receiving beta.
• Redpoint – when you successfully send a route from the ground after working out the moves and perfecting it.
• Whip – a significant fall, also referred to as a whipper, a lead climber takes when they are well above their last piece of protection.
• Spraying – providing unsolicited advice (beta) to another climber who does not want your assistance.
• Cleaning – when you remove all the quickdraws from the bolts so you can reuse them on a different climb.

Climbing Crag Etiquette

Proper etiquette comes with everything in life. For example, there are proper ways to drive a car and move around busy public areas. The same goes for sport climbing. So before you head to the crag, ensure you’re up-to-date on climbing crag etiquette. 

• Monitor your volume. Try hard noises, and communicating with your climbing partner is acceptable. However, loud music and raucous behaviour are usually frowned upon.  
• Pack it in, pack it out. Everything you bring with you, including your trash, food scraps, and bits of climbing tape, must also leave with you. 
• Avoid creating a yard sale. Sport climbing crags are shared, some of which have limited space, so mitigate the extent to which your equipment spreads out throughout the crag like a yard sale.
• Play nice with others. Simple etiquette like waiting your turn, communicating respectfully, and sharing goes a long way toward a pleasant day out.  

Sport Climbing at the Olympics

The sport of rock climbing has exploded in popularity over the past five years. As a result,  climbing is now an Olympic Sport. Sport climbing debuted in the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo (which took place in 2021 because of the COVID-19 pandemic).
In Tokyo, climbing athletes competed in a combined format, including sport climbing, bouldering, and speed climbing. However, for the 2024 Olympics in Paris, athletes can compete in a sport and bouldering combined event or separately in speed climbing.

During my rock guiding work outdoors, I obsess over selecting an outfit perfect for the day’s objective and weather. Similarly, I provide a lot of guidance to my clients about what to wear while rock climbing. 

But one of the reasons I love climbing indoors so much is that I can wear practically anything while doing it. For example, my go-to outfit for a session at the gym is a pair of regular shorts and a cotton t-shirt. But, depending on the season and the indoor climate, I prefer pants and maybe a light sweater.

Dressing for indoor rock climbing is pretty simple. Nonetheless, there are some considerations to make before you go. So, keep reading for some recommendations for what to wear while rock climbing.    

What to Wear for Indoor Rock Climbing

Ultimately– you can wear whatever you please when you go rock climbing indoors. However, some clothing is indeed better than others. So, when thinking about what to wear for indoor rock climbing, I recommend you consider the following. 

Flexibility and Mobility

You don’t want your clothing to inhibit your flexibility and mobility. In other words, you want your clothing to move with you and not against you. 

Flexible and form-fitting clothing that doesn’t inhibit your mobility is ideal because climbing requires acrobatic and gymnastic-like movements such as stretching, stepping, reaching, jumping, crouching, lunging, and squatting. 

Lightweight and Breathable

Your clothing should be lightweight and comfortable. Lightweight clothing tends to be more breathable. And breathability is important for temperature control and ventilation.

For example, imagine climbing in a thick wool turtleneck. Are you sweating? Because I am.

Now imagine climbing in a lightweight, cotton, or synthetic textile t-shirt. That feels better, right?

The same goes for your bottom layers. Again, lightweight and flexible shorts or pants are recommended over anything heavy, baggy, or thick and heavy.

Comfortable and Confidence Inspiring 

Above all else is– comfort. Climbing gyms, and the climbing community in general, can be wonderful and welcoming spaces that want you to feel comfortable. 

So, remember, wear whatever clothing makes you feel comfortable and inspires your confidence.     

What About Footwear? Climbing Shoes Are Advised

Climbing gyms are like bowling alleys. They prefer, and you perform better when you wear the appropriate footwear, which in this case, is climbing shoes. 

If you are new to climbing and don’t have climbing shoes, no worries. Most climbing gyms have shoes you can rent for a small fee. Climbing shoes are designed to give you more grip when you step on large climbing holds. And they enhance your ability to step on tiny edges.

However, you don’t have to wear your climbing shoes for the entire session. It’s common for climbers to take off their shoes and wear comfier sandals or street shoes when their feet become uncomfortable. 

This is also the best practice for going to the bathroom so your climbing shoes don’t spread germs from the bathroom onto the climbing routes.

And if you own climbing shoes, we still recommend taking them off when you’re not climbing to preserve the rubber for longer. 

Accessories and Other Gear for Indoor Climbing

In terms of accessories, think simple. Essentially, you want to eliminate the risk of anything falling off you and becoming a hazard for people below.

Besides climbing shoes, the only other gear you need boulder indoors is a chalk bag. However, you will need a harness if you plan to climb on ropes or auto-belays. In most gyms, you can rent harnesses for a small fee. 

Other accessories, like gloves, hats, or scarves, are unnecessary. Hats can fall off, gloves inhibit your ability to grip the holds, and scarves can become tangled.

However, I do recommend bringing a water bottle and some snacks.  These items don’t come up the wall with you, but they are nice to have because climbing is a workout!     

What You Should Avoid While Climbing Indoors 

I am not your parent, so I cannot tell you what not to wear. However, I want to make a few recommendations about what to avoid when climbing indoors for safety’s sake.

• Avoid dangling clothing. Dangling objects can get stuck on the route or affect the functionality of your belay device.
• Avoid overly voluminous clothing. Large skirts or dresses can impact how your harness fits and affects your climbing partner’s ability to double-check your equipment.
• Avoid climbing with items in your pockets. For example, cell phones can fall out and become a hazard.
• Avoid short shorts. Overly short shorts provide a ton of flexibility. However, they can bunch up from your harness’ leg loops and become uncomfortable.
• Avoid climbing with your hair down. If you have long hair, wearing it up in a ponytail or something similar is recommended so it cannot obstruct your vision while climbing or get stuck in your belay device.

FAQs About What to Wear When Climbing Indoors

Can I wear socks?

Yes, you can wear socks when you wear rock climbing shoes. This is particularly popular for those who rent climbing shoes from the gym. However, most climbers who own shoes do not wear socks when they climb. 

What shoes do I need to bring?

When you go rock climbing indoors, wear comfortable shoes or sandals and change into rock climbing shoes once you get there. Then, in between routes or boulder problems, you can switch back into street shoes or sandals to be more comfortable or for going to the bathroom. 

Can I wear jeans while rock climbing?

You sure can! Many people wear denim jeans when they go rock climbing. However, just understand that denim jeans may not be the most lightweight, breathable, and flexible choice. 

Should I wear gloves rock climbing?

No, it is unnecessary to wear gloves while rock climbing. Gloves inhibit sensitivity and the surface contact friction between your hands and the holds.

However, gloves are popular for belaying. Belay gloves protect your hands and can provide more control over the rope. 

Similarly, some climbers will wear specifically designed crack gloves for crack climbing. Crack gloves protect your hands and provide extra grip between the inside of the crack and the backs of your hands.   

Sport and traditional climbing, shortened to trad climbing, are the two most popular climbing styles. Therefore, when a new climber wants to start climbing outside, and they don’t want to begin pebble wrestling (aka bouldering), it’s common to want to compare the two – sport vs. trad climbing. 

Realistically, there are similarities between the two styles. For example, they both require similar climbing gear, like a dynamic climbing rope. However, to understand the two disciplines properly, it’s helpful to look at the key differences.

Read on for a brief synopsis of what sport and trad climbing are all about. And for eight critical differences between the two.

Sport vs Trad Climbing

Sport climbing is a younger style of rock climbing where the climber ascends a rock face protecting themselves by clipping their rope into pre-drilled bolts along the way. When they reach the top, they clip into pre-drilled anchors and can be lowered by their belayer or belay their second if multi-pitching.  

In comparison, trad climbing is an older style of rock climbing where the climber ascends a rock face protecting themselves by clipping their rope into removable pieces of protection that they place into cracks in the rock. When they reach the top, they build a trad anchor and can be lowered by their belayer or belay their second. 

Sport Climbing vs.Trad: 8 Key Differences

I could talk for hours about the subtleties that differentiate sport climbing from trad. But instead, I’ll share eight key differences. 

The Discipline Dictates Where You Can Climb 

Due to climbing ethics and rock type, climbing areas typically develop predominately as either an arena for sport climbing or a crag for trad climbing.

In most cases, climbing areas with rock that does not offer much in terms of cracks, pockets, flakes, horns, fissures, and knobs, get bolted and become sport climbing areas.

In comparison, if the rock allows for the placement of reliable traditional protection, and local climbing ethic deems bolts necessary, then the area becomes known as a trad climbing zone.

Sure, nowadays, there is an overlap between the two. But in most cases, your ability to safely climb an area will depend on whether it’s a sport or trad crag and the gear you bring.  

Gear and Preparation

Sport climbing and trad climbing require some of the same gear. For example, climbing ropes, helmets, climbing shoes, and a harness are required for both. 

However, the gear you use to protect the climb is drastically different. Sport climbing relies on quickdraws attached to pre-drilled bolts to protect the climb. On the other hand, trad climbing requires an additional rack of climbing gear to protect the climb adequately. 

Because trad climbing requires more gear, it’s generally understood that preparing for a route is more complex. For sport climbing, you can count the number of bolts and bring the equivalent number of quickdraws. 

Reading the Route

This brings us to the next difference–  reading the route. Reading a sport climb is all about looking for holds and predicting the sequence of movements that will allow you passage. In addition, reading a sport route involves looking for clipping stances and rest positions. 

Reading a trad route is similar. However, one distinct difference is reading the route for protection opportunities. You need to assess the route and imagine where you will get gear. Then, you prepare the rack you plan to use before leaving the ground.

Understanding Where to Place Your Anchor 

Sport climbs, whether single or multi-pitch, have established anchors–usually two bolts with other chains or hardware for clipping in. Some trad routes may have bolted anchors if it’s a particularly “sporty” single-pitch crag or a well-developed multi-pitching area.

But for the most part, trad routes require the climber to construct an anchor using trad gear. Building anchor requires an extra set of knowledge and skill to do safely. For example, understanding where to place the anchor and how to make it bomb-proof.  

Availability to Climb Indoor vs. Outdoor

One reason sport climbing has become so popular since its creation in the 1980s is its accessibility. In particular, because you can sport climb inside. 

Learning how to sport climb and train inside climbing gyms has been an incredible boon for the sport climbing discipline.

In comparison, trad climbing is generally understood as an outdoor sport. Yes, some gyms nowadays have artificial cracks, but those are climbed using a top rope and primarily for practising crack climbing technique and not for placing gear.

Your Risk Assessment is Different

Both climbing styles are inherently dangerous and not safe. To perform safely in either climbing discipline, you must assess risk and make critical decisions to mitigate risk. Some of your choices could even be the difference between life and death. 

However, it is generally understood that sport climbing is less risky than trad climbing. This is because strategically placed bolts make the climber less exposed to a big fall.

On the other hand, how exposed a climber is to a significant fall while trad climbing is based on the availability of gear placements, the quality of the natural features of the rock, and their ability to place reliable gear that will catch them. 

Therefore, the risk assessment a climber performs while trad climbing is generally understood to be significantly more complex and nuanced than the decision-making a sport climber performs as they navigate the route.      

Climbing Style Use Different Muscles

The climbing techniques for sport climbing and trad climbing can be very distinct. For example, sport climbing is characterized by face climbing, whereas trad climbing is characterized by crack climbing. Again, there will be an overlap between these two techniques, but the general distinction remains somewhat true.

The pump you get from hard face climbing is different from trad climbing. Crimping on small edges, pulling on pockets, and knee barring in roofs uses different muscles and gives an entire body workout. 

On the other hand, hand-jamming, using off-width technique, foot-jamming, and scaling cracks provide you with a completely different sensation and workout. In this regard, no climbing style is better than the other. They’re just different.  

Impact on the Climbing Environment

Sport climbing permanently alters the climbing environment more than trad climbing. For a sport climb to be safe, it requires drilling holes and equipping the rock with bolts and bolt hangers. Anchors need to be installed at the top of the climb, also.  

In comparison, trad climbers bring and take everything they’ll need when they arrive to do a climb and when they leave. 

Back in the day, this wasn’t always true because trad climbers were hammering in equipment like pitons. But nowadays, since trad gear has dramatically improved, the only thing left behind on a trad route should be chalk.

The reality of trad’s limited impact and the adventurousness of leaving the ground with a finite amount of protective equipment is why trad climbers love the discipline so profoundly.