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Archives for February 2023

Recycled Wool. Benefits of extending the life of Virgin Wool

February 28, 2023 by Louis Udeani

Sheep, alpacas, camels, and goats are the major sources of wool. This is a natural hair-like fibre shorn from their skin. Humans have used it for centuries, recognizing its durability, versatility, and eco-friendly properties. Wool’s reusable and recyclable nature allows it to serve various applications, such as clothing, upholstery, and insulation.

Its natural resistance to fire and temperature extremes also makes it suitable for industrial purposes, such as thermal and acoustic insulation, and cleaning up oil spills.

The textile industry is making progress towards sustainability and this includes wool fibre processing and production. Wool is already an environmentally friendly textile, but by implementing techniques to recycle wool fabrics and garments, it can further reduce its environmental footprint by extending the lifespan of the fibres and reducing waste.

Recycled Wool Yarn Rolls in Basket
Photo by Ksenia Chernaya

What is the difference between recycled wool and virgin wool?

Terms such as “recycled wool” and “virgin wool”, often used in the textile industry may create confusion, but the difference is simple to grasp.

The textile industry makes recycled wool from wool fibres previously used for fabrics or garments and repurposed into a new product. They label it “recycled wool” to differentiate it from “virgin wool.” Virgin wool, on the other hand, refers to wool that comes directly from sheep (or other animals). It hasn’t been previously used, and it is spun into yarn and then woven into fabric.

Wool that is virgin is labelled as such, but more commonly referred to as simply “wool.”

Why is recycled wool beneficial?

Using recycled wool has numerous advantages. Over time, it has become a great eco-friendly resource. Recycling wool eliminates carbon emissions generated during wool production. Woollen clothes have a longer lifespan. And they are washed less frequently at lower temperatures. The protein-based fibre is also recyclable and biodegradable.

recycled wool processing
Unfinished handmade carpet on hand wooden loom
Photo by Karolina Grabowska (left); Photo by Karolina Grabowska (right)

Furthermore, using recycled wool to make a new garment reduces the amount of dye needed for the process. This, in turn, lessens the negative environmental impact caused by the energy-intensive and chemical-heavy dyeing process.

By using recycled wool, not only are we able to reduce the environmental impact of virgin wool production but also eliminate methane emissions produced by sheep and water pollution caused by dirt and animal sweat salts.

Also, we can generate new mixed fabrics by combining and blending recycled wool with other fibres. Although this practice can be useful, it limits the ability to recycle the wool in the fabric further, as the process of extracting and separating specific fibres from mixed fabrics remains difficult.

By using recycled wool, we also demonstrate how reducing the need for raw materials in manufacturing can lead to the sustainable use of such natural fibres. Some environmentalists consider recycled wool as the better option today, as it offers the benefit of being more environmentally friendly than virgin wool fabric.

How do we recycle wool?

We produce recycled wool fabric as an economical way of producing wool cloth in an environment where wool is hard to come by. Some believe that this may alter the fibre’s quality. However, some recycling routes can make recycled wool fabric just as high quality as virgin wool fabric. The wool industry has three main recycling routes: the open-loop system, the closed-loop system, and re-engineering.

  • Open-loop system: This recycling process produces new textiles that are often of lower quality than the original garments. Manufacturers typically use them to make industrial items such as mattress padding or insulation (known as downcycling).
  • Closed-loop system: This recycling route mechanically processes used wool textiles through multiple steps to return them to their original fibre state. This route then turns these fibres into yarn to create new products, such as knitwear. This system produces textiles that are of similar quality to the original garments.
  • Re-engineering: This includes transforming wool textiles into new items for different uses. For example, converting a wool sweater into a bag.

It is best to verify the sustainable, recycled wool fabrics you source by checking for the relevant fabric certifications associated with the industry. There are two certifications that are important to consider when choosing recycled fabrics:

  • RCS (Recycled Claim Standard) certification: The RCS certification verifies that the material of the fabric you choose originates from recycled sources.
  • GRS (Global Recycled Standard) certification: Same as RCS, but also guarantees that the fabric was originally manufactured sustainably.

Alex Lowe: The Inspirational Climber

February 25, 2023 by Sergei Poljak

Who Was Alex Lowe?

Alex Lowe was an accomplished American mountaineer known for his versatility and skill in all facets of mountaineering. From his breakthrough ascents of massive ice columns, life on the big walls of Yosemite, and ski descents of the world’s tallest peaks, Alex Lowe was a revolutionary force within the realm of the high mountains.

Lowe was considered the best climber in the world by many of the other best climbers in the world. This included his best friend and mountain partner Conrad Anker. Notably, Lowe was a member of The North Face climbing team from 1990 until his death. Tragically, at the age of 40, Lowe died in an avalanche on Shishapangma in Tibet. His team had hoped for the first ski descent from the summit, as well as for the honor of being the first Americans to ski from an 8,000-meter peak.

Alex Lowe’s spirit, climbing ability, and perseverance are all defining qualities. However, one particular attribute stands above the rest: his raw strength. Known as the ‘Lung with Legs’ and ‘The Mutant,’ Lowe astonished climbers with his sheer ability to power through the mountains. 

In response to media attention about being the best climber in the world, Lowe stated, “The best climber in the world is the one who is having the most fun.”

Lowe is survived by his wife and three children. In 2021, Alex’s oldest son Max released TORN, a documentary film examining the family’s journey after Alex’s death.

Lowe and Anker. Photo: Wider Mag

Accomplishments

In July 1999, at the age of 40, Lowe achieved the first ascent of the northwest face of the Great Trango Tower in the Karakorum range of Pakistan. Nobody had even attempted this 6,000-foot (1,829m) wall. Despite being unwell and falling 50 feet (15m), causing an injury to his elbow, he persevered and reached the western summit at 20,410 feet (6,221m).

Among hundreds of other feats, Lowe’s major ascents include soloing the north face of the Matterhorn, being the first person to make a solo winter ascent of the north face of the Grand Teton in Wyoming, and ascending 16 routes on the granite wall of El Capitan in Yosemite. He set a record by scaling the nose of El Capitan in just 10 hours. A climb that previously took several days. Lowe also climbed Everest twice and had several attempts on harder 8,000-meter peaks like K2. 

Lowe had a passion for exploring remote locations. It led him to visit Antarctica, Baffin Island in the Canadian Arctic, the Carstenz Pyramid in Indonesia, and the Cordillera Blanca in Peru.

Photo: Rock & Ice

The 1995 Denali Rescue

In June 1995, Alex Lowe played a key role in a National Park Service rescue operation for several Spanish climbers on Denali in Alaska. Trapped for four days at 19,200 feet (5,852m), one of the group had already fallen to their death. The surviving climbers were suffering from hypothermia. With Mark Twight and Scott Backes, the National Park Service airlifted Lowe by military helicopter to a plateau above the climbers and descended a 400-foot (122m) slope of ice and rock to reach them. He determined that one of the Spaniards needed immediate evacuation. Despite the high altitude and snowy conditions, Lowe carried the climber on his back up the steep slope.

Climbers close to Alex Lowe knew that he was strong. His exercise regime was the stuff of legend. On expeditions, when other climbers were exhausted and in bed, Lowe would be doing dip after dip, chin up after chin up, and push up after push up.

Nevertheless, the Denali rescue exhibited his strength in a new light. It’s one thing to have the strength for technical climbing at 20,000 feet (6,096m). To carry the dead weight of another climber on your back can only be described as Herculean. 

Photo: Andrew McLean

Alex Lowe’s Death on Shishapangma

In 1999, Alex Lowe, Conrad Anker, David Bridges, and others embarked on a journey to Shishapangma, the 14th-highest peak in the world.

Renowned ski mountaineer Andrew McLean led the 1999 American Shishapangma Ski Expedition. The plan was for Lowe and Anker to become the first Americans to ski from the summit of an 8,000-meter peak. Meanwhile, Bridges was part of a three-person film crew responsible for shooting an NBC documentary for The North Face. 

On October 5th, the team split into two groups as they tried to find a path to the top of the mountain. Lowe, Anker, and Bridges were part of the same group and were traversing a flat glacier when a massive serac broke off from 6000 feet (1800 m) above and barrelled down the mountain. TA 500-foot-wide (150m) avalanche swept over the trio. With the force of a bomb, the wind blast from the moving snow and ice threw Anker 100 feet. Fortunately, he escaped with relatively minor injuries, such as a lacerated head, broken ribs, and a dislocated shoulder. Upon extricating himself from the snow, he led an unsuccessful rescue effort for 20 hours in the massive debris field. 

Astonishingly, climbers Ueli Steck and David Göttler stumbled upon the climbers’ remains emerging from the receding glacier nearly 17 years later. Despite the long passage of time, the bodies had remained frozen in the ice and were ‘unmistakably’ the two climbers who had gone missing decades earlier. 

Photo: Wildbounds

TORN: A Story of Friendship and Family

TORN is a powerful and emotional documentary. It was directed by Max Lowe, Alex’s oldest son, who was ten years old at the time of his death. Max details his family’s journey surrounding the discovery of their lost father from deep within the receding glaciers of Shishapangma.

Moreover, Max explores the dynamics of his father, his family, and his stepfather, Conrad Anker, who was also Alex’s climbing partner and best friend. Alas, the fact that Conrad married Alex’s wife and adopted his kids just a year after his death has long been a subject of discussion within the mountaineering world.

Alex Lowe and his family, one year before his death. Photo: Climbing.com

Highest Mountains in the UK

February 23, 2023 by Andreea Iavorenciuc

The UK has no reputation for having the highest mountains in the world – even if we include the overseas territories. Still, it has a few tall mountains that are an adventure to climb. But where to find the highest mountains in the United Kingdom? Most of them are in the overseas territories and Scotland, but Wales, Ireland, and England also have their fair share.

So, if you are feeling adventurous, here are the main regions in the UK where you can climb some tall mountains.

What Is the Highest Mountain in the UK?

Ben Nevis - highest mountain in UK
Source: Thincat

The highest mountain in UK is Scotland’s Ben Nevis. At 1345 meters (4412 feet) upon the Grampian Mountain Range, this mountain attracts hundreds of thousands of adventurers. It is understandable why: the views of the Scottish Highlands are stunning. It may not be the highest mountain in the world (that title belongs to Everest), but it’s still impressive.

Mountain climbers usually get to the summit through The Mountain Track route, as it offers beautiful views of the countryside. During winter, the mountain can be very windy, and you need to buy some good snow shows for the substantial amount of snow. Summer has an easier ascent, but you must be careful when climbing over the rocks. Despite the reputation for low, rainy lands that the UK gets, its mountain views can be rather majestic.

Top 10 Highest Mountains in Britain and Ireland

With Ben Nevis included, the UK has over 100 mountains passing the 1000m (>3000ft) peak. 192 of the top 200 are found in Scotland. Many of the mountains in the British Isles pass through Scotland, covering a wide UK territory.

Highest mountain in Britain and Ireland - Ben Macdui
Source: Graham Lewis
Nr.NameRegionHeight (m/ft)
#1Ben NevisGrampians1345 / 4412
#2Ben MacduiCairngorms1309 / 4251
#3BraeriachCairngorms1296 / 4251
#4Cairn ToulCairngorms1291 / 4235
#5Carn na CricheCairngorms1265 / 4150
#6Sgor na Lochain UaineCairngorms1258 / 4127
#7Cairn GormCairngorms1245 / 4084
#8Aonach BeagGrampians1234 / 4048
#9Aonach MorGrampians1221 / 4005
#10Carn DeargMonadh Liath1221 / 4005

Top 10 Mountains in England

England has its fair share of mountains, the tallest being Scafell Pike at 978 meters (3209 feet). Found in Lake District National Park (as are most of the mountains), the hike is a very long one. However, it is worth the effort, as the views from the top are breathtaking. From grassy hills to impressive rock formations, England mountains have a lot to offer.

Highest mountain in England - Scafell Pike
Source: Doug Sim
Nr.NameRegionHeight
#1Scafell PikeSW Lake District978 / 3209
#2ScafellSW Lake District964 / 3163
#3HelvellynNE Lake District950 / 3117
#4Ill CragSW Lake District935 / 3068
#5Broad CragSW Lake District934 / 3064
#6SkiddawNW Lake District391 / 3054
#7Lower ManNE Lake District925 / 3035
#8Great EndSW Lake District910 / 2986
#9BowfellSW Lake District902 / 2959
#10Great GableSW Lake District899 / 2949

Top 10 Mountains in Scotland

Scotland is famous for having Ben Nevis – the highest mountain in UK – on its list. The tallest mountains in Scotland are referred to as Munros, which are essentially mountains over 3000 feet. Below are some of the tallest Munros you can tackle while in Scotland.

highest mountains in scotland - Braeriach
Source: Angus
Nr.NameRegionHeight
#1Ben NevisGrampians1345 / 4412
#2Ben MacduiCairngorms1309 / 4251
#3BraeriachCairngorms1296 / 4251
#4Cairn ToulCairngorms1291 / 4236
#5Sgor an Lochain UaineCairngorms1258 / 4127
#6Cairn GormCairngorms1245 / 4081
#7Aonach BeagGrampians1234 / 4048
#8Aonach MorGrampians1221 / 4005
#9Carn Mor DeargGrampians1220 / 4003
#10Ben LawersBreadalbane1214 / 3983

Top 10 Mountains in Wales

Wales is very popular for its mountain terrain, even though the country only spreads over 8,000 sq. m. Many of the mountains on Welsh territory were formed during the last Ice Age, which was some 12,000 years back. This includes Snowdon, part of Snowdonia National Park.

highest mountain in Wales - Snowdon
Source: Stemonitis
Nr.NameRegionHeight
#1SnowdonSnowdonia1085 / 3559
#2Pen y FanBrecon Beacons886 / 2906
#3Carnedd LlewelynSnowdonia1064 / 3490
#4Glyder FawrSnowdonia1000 / 3280
#5TryfanSnowdonia917 / 3,008
#6Cadair IdrisSnowdonia893 / 2929
#7Waun FachBlack Mountains811 / 2660
#8Fan BrycheiniogBrecon Beacons802 / 2631
#9PlynlimonCambrian Mt.752 / 2467
#10Foel CwmcerwynPreseli Hills536 / 1758

Top 10 Mountains in Ireland

Ireland has some very tall mountains, the tallest one (Carrqauntoohil) being over 1000 meters (3000 feet). Most hikers take the route of the Devil’s Ladder, as it brings some very impressive views.

highest mountain in Ireland - Carrqauntoohil
Source: Jim Barton
Nr.NameRegionHeight
#1CarrqauntoohilCo Kerry1038 /3407
#2Cnoc na PéisteCo Kerry988 / 3241
#3Mount BrandonCo Kerry952 / 3123
#4LugnaquillaCo Wicklow925 / 3035
#5GaltymoreCo Limerick & Co Tipperary919 / 3012
#6BaurtregaumCo Kerry851 / 2972
#7Slieve DonardCo Down850 / 2788
#8MullaghcleevaunCo Wicklow849 / 2785
#9Mangerton MountainCo Kerry839 / 2752
#10Purple MountainCo Kerry832 / 2729

Top 10 Mountains in the UK, Including Overseas Territories

The UK has fourteen overseas territories that are still British-ruled islands even though they are separated by waters. Here, you can find the highest mountain in UK, as well as the following majestic peaks:

Highest Mountains in the UK, including Overseas Territories - Mount Hope
Source: euphro
Nr.NameRegionHeight
#1Mount HopeBritish Antarctic Territory3239 / 10627
#2Mount JacksonBritish Antarctic Territory3184 / 10446
#3Mount StephensonBritish Antarctic Territory2987 / 9800
#4Mount PagetSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands2937 / 9636
#5Mount FrancaisBritish Antarctic Territory2760 / 9055
#6Mount ParryBritish Antarctic Territory2520 / 8268
#7Nordenskjöld PeakSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands2354 / 7723
#8Mount CarseSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands2339 / 7674
#9Mount SugartopSouth Georgia and the South Sandwich Islands2323 / 7621
#10Mount GaudryBritish Antarctic Territory2315 / 7595

The Highest Mountain in UK – The Bottom Line

The UK has no lack of mountains for adventurers to climb upon. Whether you are looking for the highest mountain in UK or just a good adventure, these impressive peaks are waiting for you. Just make sure that you’re always properly equipped for the weather.

Lake District Mountains – Highest Mountains in England

February 21, 2023 by Andreea Iavorenciuc

When you decide to hike through England, there are numerous questions you will likely ask yourself. How many lakes in the Lake District National Park will you come across? And more importantly, how many Lake District mountains will you be able to climb?

Covering 2,368 square kilometres and an elevation of 978 meters (3,209 feet), Lake District is a focal point for mountain climbers. Regardless of your choice, you can enjoy multiple challenging routes.

Lake District National Park, in Cumbria, is home to England’s ten-highest mountains

Lake district national park - lake district mountains
Source: Tim Stevens

If you are wondering how many mountains in the Lake District you can climb, the answer is very simple: 214. There are so many of them in this National Park that a full-month vacation would not be enough to tackle them all. There are many fells there as well (smaller mountains or hills), but Lake District is known for the fact that it has some of the highest mountains in England. Regardless of your climbing level, you have plenty of options to make your pick.

Scafell Pike – The Highest Mountain in England

Scafell Pike - lake district mountains
Source: Hedley Thorne

Commonly referred to as the highest mountain in the UK, Scafell Pike is a challenge for many hikers looking for a bit of adventure. At 978 metres (3,209 feet), it’s considered the tallest mountain in England. Featuring multiple 1st and 2nd-degree scrambles, this is considered a fairly difficult mountain, with quite a few steep rocks. The hike starts at Wasdale Head, and it takes an experienced mountain goer about 5 hours to climb.

Scafell, not to be confused with Scafell Pike

Scafell England - lake district mountains
Source: Dougsim

While often confused with Scafell Pike, these two are very different fells. They’re at a stone’s throw from one another but are separated by the Broad stand. At 964 metres (3,163 feet), most people call Scafell the “child summit of Scafell Pike.” To start hiking the mountain, you need to begin at Wastwater and then ascend 964 m to reach the top. It takes about 5 hours to complete a hike on this mountain.

Helvellyn

Helvellyn - lake district mountains
Source: Simon Ledingham

At 950 metres (3114 feet), this mountain is only slightly smaller than Scafell and can be completed in about 4-5 hours. The usual route is through the Striding Edge, and you may start from the central point of the Lake District National Park. Helvellyn has enough steep paths and scrambles to make it rather challenging, but its width makes it fairly manageable as well.

Skiddaw

Skiddaw - lake district mountains
Source: Antiquary

At 931 metres (3053 feet), Skiddaw is the fourth highest mountain in Lake District. That being said, the width is fairly large, which means that a climb on this mountain can take about 6-7 hours to complete. It is a good option for those wanting a scenic route, as the fells are covered in grass, bracken, scree, and heather. You can take multiple routes to reach the top, but the Jenkin Hill Path is among the most popular.

Great End

Great End mountain
Source: Ann Bowker

The Great End is a 908-metre (2959-foot) mountain found in the northernmost corner of the Scafell chain. If you look at it from the south, the mountain doesn’t seem that big – just a hill that looks like nothing much. However, if you look at the Great End from the north, that’s when you will see the glory of the mountain. It’s a fairly difficult climb, but if you have enough experience, it will take you about 3 hours to reach the top.

Bowfell

Bowfell
Source: Peter S

While Bowfell can be steep, this 902-metre (2,959-foot) pyramid-shaped formation is a great option for walkers. The route takes you through the Tree Tarns, taking you straight to the Crinkle Crag and up the top of Bowfell. There are quite a few scrambles and steep rocks, and it can take 5-6 hours to get there but the view from up the mountain is fantastic.

Great Gable

Great Gable
Source: Doug Sim

At 899 metres (2949 feet), the Great Gable is not the highest mountain, but there is a reason why it’s a symbol of the Lake District Park. The views once you reach the top are stunning, especially on a clear day, and they will most definitely take your breath away. Between the more challenging points, you can also find some areas of smooth ascension, where you may walk at your own pace.

Pillar

Pillar Rock
Source: Bobble Hat

At 892 metres (2927 feet), Pillar is more or less a rugged mass with a conical appearance. There are two summits here: the Low Man and the High Man. Part of the Great Gable, this was very popular among early British climbers. It features rocks of every grade, making it a very exciting challenge.

Nethermost Pike

Nethermost Pike
Source: Mark J

The Nethermost Pike is a good mountain for those seeking a moderate climb. Its parent summit is Helvellyn, and at 891 metres (2923 feet), it is seen as one of the highest Lake District mountains. You will pass by various farmhouses at the bottom of the mountain, and the top is certainly breathless. It’s a rather challenging climb but certainly awe-inspiring.

Catstye Cam

Catstye Cam
Source: Timst

A Helvellyn mountain outliner, this 889-metre (2949-foot) mountain is perfect for those looking for a walk. It takes about 5 hours to climb, and there are various smooth grassy slopes followed by steeper slopes. The mountain takes the shape of a pyramid, and you will get a great view of Helvellyn’s peak when you reach the top.

Other Mountain Groups Worth Mentioning

If you want to climb some fells but the highest Lake District mountains still intimidate you, there are some smaller, easier routes that you can take. Among the most popular for beginner hikers include:

The Fairfield Group

If you are in the mood for hiking over more than one peak during your hike, the Fairfield group can give you that opportunity (the famous Fairfield Horseshoe). You can scale above one, descend, and then move to another through a valley. While traversing the valley, you will oversee the Ambleside village. There are different routes that you may use, but the most popular one will take you about 6-7 hours.

The Langdale Pikes

If you adventure on the Langdale Pikes, you will see quite a bit of lovely scenery. If you take the hike through Dungeon Gill to reach the Harrison Sickle, you will pass by some stunning waterfalls. It is the perfect spot to stop and enjoy the view during a picnic.

The Coniston Fells

Depending on the slope that you are on, you will see some very different things. On the lower slope, you will see proof of industrial work: mine workings and various quarries. However, on the higher slopes, you will be mostly surrounded by nature. Most of the climbs are grade-1, but some grade-2 sections will give adventurous hikers a thrill. Depending on the route that you take, you can finish the climb in anything between 2 to 7 hours.

The Lake District Mountains – The Bottom Line

Lake District National Park gives you plenty of opportunities for mountain climbing. Whether you want a lower peak or a higher point, you can tackle the fells and mountains for a day of adventure.

FWT23 – Kicking Horse Golden BC Pro

February 18, 2023 by endorfeen

The FWT23 Kicking Horse Golden BC Pro was an exceptional event with spectacular performances that will not be easily forgotten. The level of skill and talent displayed by the participants was impressive. It created a memorable experience for all those in attendance.

  • A perfect day with plenty of snow welcomed the competition and the athletes. It was a real “bluebird powder day”.
  • The Canadian spectators were ecstatic about the performance of their fellow countrymen. Justine Dufour-Lapointe, Marcus Goguen, Olivia McNeill, and Katie Anderson managed to maintain their lead by retaining the gold bib.
  • The competition has now progressed to the next stage. The qualified riders move on to the European segment, effectively reducing the number of participants.

FWT23 – Kicking Horse Golden BC Pro, overview

On February 17, 2023, in Kicking Horse Golden BC, the world’s top freeride athletes had the opportunity to showcase their skills on a newly fallen layer of snow.

The local crowd was enthusiastic and made their presence known with thunderous applause, creating an electric atmosphere for the event. The competition took place on the Ozone Face, providing an ideal stage for the 2023 world title race to unfold. The competition was intense, with the world’s best freeriders vying for victory in this highly anticipated event.

Snowboard men

At first, the promising newcomer from Mexico, Liam Rivera (MEX), kicked off the event with an outstanding performance. That left his competitors with a tough act to follow.

As a result, he set a high standard by charging straight through the cold and deep snow, executing 360-degree spins in both directions, which earned him a well-deserved victory.

Then, Ludovic Guillot-Diat (FRA) managed to hold onto his top spot in the overall rankings by securing a second-place finish. Jonathan Penfield (USA) completed the podium in third place. The event was highly competitive, with athletes from various countries demonstrating their prowess in freeride skiing.

“I don’t think I quite believe it yet. I came here just wanting to make the cut, and now I have taken the win. I’m very happy!”

Liam Rivera
© Freeride World Tour – Credits: Jeremy Bernard

Ski men

Max Hitzig (GER) delivered an incredible performance. He executed what could be considered the largest backflip ever seen in the history of the FWT.

The backflip was so impressive that it has to be seen to be fully appreciated. A seamless flow and impressive speed marked Hitzig’s entire run. He linked a few aerial manoeuvres at the beginning of his run, leading up to his historic backflip, which clinched him the first-place finish. Local up-and-comer Marcus Goguen (CAN) surprised everyone with his electrifying run, propelling him up the rankings and earning him a spot in the FWT Finals, securing the second-place finish.

Valentin Rainer (AUT) continued his good form from Andorra, placing third in this highly competitive event. The quality of skiing on display was truly remarkable, with the athletes displaying their skill and daring to a captivated audience.

“I wasn’t sure if it [the backflip] was going to work. I saw Yu Sasaki send the pyramid cliff three years ago, which is why I went for it today. I’m so stoked!”

Max Hitzig
© Freeride World Tour – Credits: Jeremy Bernard

Ski women at FWT23 Kicking Horse Golden BC Pro

First, the most remarkable piece of the action. Megane Betend (FRA) produced a performance that will undoubtedly be remembered as a defining moment in her career.

Her impressive display of freeriding was marked by its speed and power. She maintained the pace throughout the entirety of her run. One of the highlights of her run was an unbelievable triple drop into the finish line. It sealed her victory and ensured she earned a chance at the world title.

In addition, Elisabeth Gerritzen (SUI) also put in a strong performance, executing her run with grace and fluidity, which earned her the second-place finish. Finally, Addison Rafford (USA) completed the podium with a solid run, which saw her take the lead in the overall rankings.

Overall, the competition was fierce, with each athlete delivering a performance that showcased their exceptional skill and talent in freeriding.

“I knew I would have to finish first or second to qualify for the finals, so I said to myself, ‘go big or go home!’ I am stoked that it worked.”

Megane Betend
FWT23
© Freeride World Tour – Credits: Jeremy Bernard

Snowboard women

Michaela Davis-Meehan (AUS) delivered an impressive performance that saw her emerge as the event’s winner, even though it wasn’t enough to secure her a spot in the cut.

Despite the pressure, Michaela executed her run flawlessly, starting with two massive airs in the steep and exposed section of the course. She then maintained her speed as she transitioned into some fast and thrilling powder turns.

Concurrently, Estelle Rizzolio (FRA) and Anna Orlova (RUS) secured second and third place, respectively, by putting in solid runs that highlighted their skill and experience in freeriding.

To conclude, the competition was incredibly intense, with the athletes pushing the limits of their abilities to thrill the audience and make their mark in the freeriding world.

“It was amazing. The snow was so good. I had a backup run that I was going to do, but I blew that one off – I wanted the rockstar run, and I am glad I did it.”

Michaela Davis-Meehan
FWT23 - Kicking Horse Golden BC Pro
© Freeride World Tour – credits: Jeremy Bernard

Scott Fischer: Mr. Rescue and the 1996 Everest Disaster

February 18, 2023 by Sergei Poljak

Who Was Scott Fischer?

Scott Fischer, born on December 24, 1955, was a celebrated American mountain climber, guide, and entrepreneur. In addition to founding the iconic guiding outfit Mountain Madness, he gained recognition for climbing the highest peaks on earth without supplemental oxygen. Scott Fischer joined Charley Mace and Ed Viesturs in successfully climbing K2 without oxygen. He and Wally Berg made history as the first Americans to reach the summit of Lhotse, the world’s fourth tallest mountain. Fisher first scaled Mount Everest in 1994 but unfortunately lost his life while guiding clients in the 1996 Everest Disaster.

Scott was raised in Michigan and New Jersey. His passion for mountains began after watching a documentary film with his father in 1970 about NOLS, the National Outdoor Leadership School. Impressed by the film, he visited the Wind River Range in Wyoming that summer and developed an unbreakable bond with the mountains. Fischer devoted the rest of his life to climbing peaks.

Scott Fisher
Photo: Mountain Madness

Mountain Madness

Scott Fischer co-founded Mountain Madness with Wes Krause in 1984 after relocating to the Pacific Northwest with his wife. They established the company in the vicinity of the Cascade and Olympic mountain ranges, providing ample guiding opportunities for the Seattle-based team. Quickly expanding to international adventures, Scott’s expertise as a seasoned climbing instructor and natural leadership skills made him well-suited to run the company. He believed that the challenge and discovery of mountaineering could positively impact people’s lives. His guiding and mentorship style reflected this, and he inspired others with his strength, determination, good humour, and can-do attitude. He passed this same approach down to everyone he climbed mountains with, including his two children. 

Scott Fischer and Mountain Madness were part of the 1993 Climb for the Cure on Denali, organized by Princeton students to raise funds for AIDS research. In 1996, Fischer and Mountain Madness guided a Kilimanjaro expedition in another effort to raise funds for charity. 

After Fisher’s Death, Kieth and Christine Boskoff assumed control of Mountain Madness. Together they invested heavily in the company, salvaging it from the brink of financial ruin. Tragedy struck once again in 1999 when Kieth suddenly died. Just seven years later, Christine and her partner Charlie Fowler died while climbing in China. In 2008, Mountain Madness guide Mark Gunlogson took over operations and continued to run the company successfully. Scott Fischer’s legacy continues to thrive through Mountain Madness. The company’s philosophy aligns with Fischer’s vision of delivering quality guiding and instruction while still having fun in the mountains.

Scott Fisher
Photo: Wikipedia

The 1996 Everest Disaster

Mountain Madness organized an attempt to summit Everest for the 1996 season with Scott Fischer at the helm. In addition to the pressure of leading a successful push to the summit, Fischer was competing against another guided outfit. New Zealander Rob Hall’s Adventure Consultants were also making a summit bid. In retrospect, many mountaineers have attributed this ‘rivalry’ to the risky decisions of both lead guides.

Fischer spent the day leading up to the summit push helping an ailing climber descend from Camp 1. Fisher was slow to ascend to Camps 2 and 3. Ultimately, the team arrived on the summit of Everest at 3:45 p.m. on May 10th, nearly two hours after the hard deadline for a safe descent (2 p.m.). Rob Hall’s group also summitted well after the deadline. By this time, Fischer was unusually exhausted, perhaps due to his rescue in the days preceding the summit bid. He may also have been suffering from acute altitude sickness by the time the teams reached the summit.

Scott Fischer’s Death

As if on queue from the devil himself, a severe storm hit the mountain shortly after both teams began their descent, leaving the climbers stranded on the South Col without adequate shelter. Fischer remained at the South Col during the descent while the rest of his team reached the safety of Camp IV. Struggling to continue, he asked his climbing partner Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa to descend without him and send back Anatoli Boukreev for help. Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa and Boukreev managed to rescue several other climbers including the leader of the Taiwanese team, whom they found stranded with Fischer. 

Although he was still breathing lightly, it was already obvious that Fischer was lost. The team chose to save Gao, the Taiwanese leader.

When Boukreev returned to assist Fischer, he was already dead. In fact, Boukreev found Fisher half undressed. Called ‘paradoxical undressing,’ this behaviour is commonly observed in the final stages of hypothermia. Boukreev shrouded Fischer’s body and moved it off the main climbing route. Scott Fischer’s body remains on the mountain to this day. The 1996 Mount Everest disaster is one of the deadliest in the mountain’s history, with 8 people losing their lives. Yet, no other climbers from Fisher’s team perished. In addition to the heroism of Lopsang Jangbu Sherpa and Boukreev, Fischer’s self-sacrifice ultimately saved the life of his clients and others on the mountain that day. 

Mr Rescue 

Metaphorically speaking, Fischer went down with the ship to save his crew in the 1996 Everest Disaster. However, that was not his first selfless act in the mountains. Even before the 1996 expedition, Fischer was known as Mr. Rescue for his assistance in numerous high-altitude rescues.

On K2, he and his team abandoned their summit bid to help rescue Aleskei Nikiforov, Thor Keiser, and Chantal Mauduit. Despite the arduous rescue effort, the team still managed to summit without supplemental oxygen just days after. On the same mission, the team helped Rob Hall and Gary Ball descend to safety after the two developed altitude sickness. Although it may seem callous to folks unfamiliar with the ardour of high-altitude climbing, rescues like these are difficult and uncommon. Oftentimes, climbers in need of assistance are left for dead. The effort of saving them is too difficult and risky in such a harsh environment. Scott Fischer was one of the few who was strong enough to assist. Those who knew him well say it was his love of people that pushed him to rescue his fellow climbers.

Fischer and his guiding outfit Mountain Madness assisted in many charity climbs over the years. Despite his status as a famous mountain climber, Fischer wasn’t particularly adept at running a profitable guiding outfit. His primary goal was always to provide clients with memorable experiences, not to make money off of them. 

Photo: Tourist2Townie

Aconcagua, an easy 6000m+ mountain to climb?

February 16, 2023 by Louis Udeani

As the highest mountain in South America, the Southern Hemisphere, and one of the “seven summits” of the world, Aconcagua calls out to be climbed. It is located in the Mendoza province of Argentina and has a breathtaking peak of over 22,000 feet (over 6,500 metres) within the Andes-mountain range.

Aconcagua is often referred to as one of the highest trekking peaks in the world. People call it an ‘easy’ mountain to climb. They generally view the main routes as long walks rather than mountaineering expeditions, even though hikers may need to break trails in deep snow or traverse long sections of hard ice, in which case ice axes and crampons are necessary.

But make no mistake, Aconcagua’s routes could present a serious challenge, even for experienced mountaineers, due to their long days at altitude and lower oxygen levels, which include nearly 10,000 feet (3,000+ meters) in vertical ascent. So, even though most of Aconcagua’s routes do not require technical gear, the unforgiving conditions make it a challenging climb.

About Aconcagua

Located in the Principal Cordillera of the Andes mountain range in the Mendoza Province of Argentina, the Aconcagua mountain stands as the highest mountain in the Americas, outside Asia, and the Southern Hemisphere, with a summit elevation of 6,961 meters (22,837 ft).

Located 112 kilometres (70 miles) northwest of Mendoza city, 5 kilometres (3 miles) from San Juan Province, and 15 kilometres (9 miles) from the Argentina-Chile border, it is also one of the Seven Summits of the seven continents.

Image by gmarcelo

The mountain’s peak is located in Argentina but builds from the coastal lowlands of Chile, just north of Santiago. It also has two summits, north and south, connected by a ridge called Cresta del Guanaco, which is about 0.6 miles (1 km) long. The Valle de las Vacas is a valley that bounds Aconcagua to the north and east, and the Valle de Los Horcones Inferior bounds it to the west and south.

The mountain boasts several glaciers, including its largest, the Ventisquero Horcones Inferior, which spans a distance of approximately 10 km (6 mi) and descends from the south face to about 3,600 m (11,800 ft) near the Confluencia camp. The Ventisquero de las Vacas Sur and the Glaciar Este/Ventisquero Relinchos are two other prominent glaciers in the mountain. The most well-known glacier is the Polish Glacier, which is known as a popular route of ascent.

A brief history of Aconcagua.

Aconcagua possibly got its name from the Quechua words Ackon Cahuak meaning “Sentinel of Stone”. The mountain is of volcanic origin. It was formed by the subduction of the Nazca Plate beneath the South American Plate. It was an active stratovolcano in the Late Cretaceous or Early Paleocene era through the Miocene, consisting of several volcanic complexes on the edge of a shallow sea basin.

In 1883, a party led by German geologist and explorer Paul Güssfeldt made the first attempt to summit Aconcagua. They approached the mountain via the Rio Volcan and made two attempts on the peak by the northwest ridge, reaching an elevation of 6,500 meters (21,325 ft). They failed, but the route they prospected is the standard route up the mountain today.

In 1897, a Swiss climber named Mathias Zurbriggen was credited with summiting Aconcagua first. He achieved this during an ascent with a European expedition group led by the British mountaineer Edward FitzGerald. Zurbriggen is credited as being the first person to reach the summit, but traces of Inca civilisation and culture have been discovered near the summit.

Matthias Zurbriggen in the Tasman Valley
Matthias Zurbriggen in the Tasman Valley. Source: wikimedia commons

A few centuries ago, the routes around Aconcagua were used for military expeditions, just like the routes in the Himalayas. In 1817, General Jose de San Martin used one of these routes to help Chile become independent from Spain. By 1950, most of the routes up the mountain had been climbed, with many variations of these routes also successfully used to reach the summit.

Are you ready to climb Aconcagua, the “easy” mountain?

The Normal Route, Vacas Valley Polish Variation (Polish Traverse), and the Guanacos Glacier Route are traditionally offered as guided routes on Aconcagua. However, the Guanacos Route has been closed in recent years to protect the breeding and raising of young guanacos in the area. The Polish Vacas Variation Route on the east side of the mountain offers a more aesthetic approach, with less traffic and the opportunity to traverse the mountain. The Normal Route is shorter and less demanding.

General considerations

Experience walking in crampons and using an ice axe is a good plus for climbing Aconcagua, but nothing more is generally required. However, the mountain’s height and cold temperatures make for a difficult ascent, even for experienced mountaineers. Climbers must spend extended periods camping at high altitudes, which can be physically and mentally demanding. Additionally, they must carry more than just their day packs to the high base camp. And weather conditions at high altitudes can change quickly, with temperatures dropping as low as -30°C.

Some pre-requisites

To ensure personal safety, success, and team compatibility, it is important that climbers have adequate training and be in excellent physical condition before attempting to climb Aconcagua. Climbers should prepare themselves both physically and mentally to handle strenuous situations at high altitudes.

Being in excellent physical condition is not only necessary for personal enjoyment of the ascent but also to be an effective member of the climbing team.

In addition to being in excellent physical condition, Climbers should have;

  • Spent multiple nights outdoors.
  • Done winter camping.
  • Completed multi-day trips with a 40 lb. pack (lesser pack weight if porters are used).
  • Good backpacking skills.
  • The ability to assist guides with setting up camps and tents.

Climbing Aconcagua

Best time to climb Aconcagua

Every year, the climbing season on Aconcagua officially runs from November 15th to March 31st, with the peak season generally occurring from mid-December to the end of January.

The summit remains cold all year round. Climbers often experience frostbite as temperatures drop to around -30°C during the climbing season. Wind speeds near the summit frequently surpass 50 mph, and dust on the lower reaches can pose a significant challenge.

Aconcagua often experience storms, and the weather can change drastically over a very short period of time. As a result, we advise climbers to monitor the weather forecast throughout the climb. White-outs near the summit are common, and many climbers often get lost on the mountain, so it’s essential to take necessary precautions.

We recommend visiting Aconcagua during its high season to reduce the chances of facing these risks and increase the chances of summiting. 

Possible itineraries and routes

To summit Aconcagua, there are several routes of ascents you can choose from. They include;

  1. Polish Traverse
  2. Normal Route
  3. Direct polish glacier route
  4. Ibanez-Marmillod Route

In this article, we would deal with the two most popular routes; The ‘Normal route’ and the ‘Polish Traverse’ route. These routes begin at opposite sides of the mountain and then join each other at around 1,000 meters (3,280 ft) below the summit.

aconcagua summit routes
Photo credit: MountainIQ

Possible itinerary for the Polish Traverse route:

DayActivityEst. time expected
Day 1End of Vacas valley – Pampa laina (8,200 ft / 2500m) From the road to camp4-5 hours
Day 2Casa Piedra (9,200 ft / 2,804m)5-7 hours
Day 3Plaza Argentina (13,200 ft / 4,023m)5-7 hours
Day 4Rest
Day 5Carry load to camp 1 (16,200 ft / 4,937m).4-6 hours
Day 6Move up to camp 1.4-6 hours
Day 7Rest
Day 8Carry load to camp 2 (19,200 ft / 5,852m) (high camp).4 – 6 hours
Day 9Rest
Day 10Move up to camp 2 (19,200 ft / 5,852m).4 – 6 hours
Day 11Walk to Independencia (21,500 ft / 6,553m) to understand the route.2-3 hours
Day 12Get up early by 3:00 am and start for the summit with headlamps and crampons this is a long day allow 10-12 hours or longer for the round trip.7-12 hours
Day 13Descend to base camp, arrange mules with the rangers for your gear and walk out to Casa Piedra to spend the night.3-7 hours
Day 14Walk out to the highway at the mouth of the Rio Vacas, have your pick-up scheduled in advance and have the rangers confirm it if possible. If not you will have to walk or hitchhike (which is difficult since it is so close to the border). You can always call the hotel at Penitentes from the truck customs building at the mouth of the Vacas. They will pick you up if you will stay or eat there. So have the number tucked away.4-8 hours

Possible itinerary for the Normal route:

DayActivityEst. time expected
Day 1Puenta del inca to Confuencia (9,200 ft / 2804m)3-4 hours
Day 2Confluencia to base camp (Plaza de Mules, 13,000 ft / 3,962m)6-7 hours
Day 3Rest
Day 4Carry to load to Camp Canada (16,000 ft / 4,976m)4-6 hours
Day 5Move up to Camp Canada4-6 hours
Day 6Rest.
Day 7Carry to load Berlin (19,100 ft / 5,821m)5 – 6 hours
Day 8Move up to Berlin (19,100 ft / 5,821m)5 – 6 hours
Day 9Rest day and trail exploration 5-6 hours
Day 10Summit day 8-12 hours, & round trip 8-12 hours
Day 11Clean up camp and descend to base camp.3-4 hours
Day 12Arrange mules and walk out to Puenta del Inca or Confluencia6-8 hours
Day 13Walk out if you camped at Confluencia 2-3 hours

Another popular route is the ‘Polish Glacier’. Considerable amounts of technical climbing skills are required to take this route. The Polish glacier route cuts straight through the east side of the mountain. Ice climbing skills are necessary for this route. 

Climbing permits

The Aconcagua Provincial Park encompasses the mountain and its surroundings. To enter the park, you have to obtain a permit.

Permits are sold exclusively at the Dirección de Recursos Naturales Renovables (Renewable Energy Resources Bureau) on Avenida de los Plátanos in Parque General San Martín. You will need to show your passport and fill in some forms, as well as pay the correct permit fee.

Separate permits are required for trekking (up to 4300m (or 14107 ft) maximum) and for ascending to the summit. A short trekking permit is valid for 3 days. A long trekking permit is valid for 7 days. An ascent permit is valid for 20 days. The validity of the permit starts from the date you enter the park.

“Toilet” service

After you check in at Plaza de Mulas, you will be handed a ‘poop’ bag by a Ranger. You must carry this bag with you throughout the entire ascent and back. Returning from your ascent without this bag attracts a $200 fine. The bag is there to replace the functions of an actual toilet. It is mandatory that you use it each and every time a toilet isn’t available for your pressing needs during the ascent. If you do not comply and a guard spots you doing it another way, this will attract an additional $100 fine.

There are camps with toilets along the routes going up the mountain. It is in these camps you will have the opportunity to dispose of your waste.

FWT Unveils Exciting Exhibition Ahead of Kicking Horse BC Competition

February 15, 2023 by Teddy Dondanville

The FWT23 Kicking Horse BC event will host a special exhibition this year. The aim is to add an artistic layer to the event for those who appreciate beautiful art. Along with skiing and snowboarding.

The Inspiration Behind the Exhibit

The idea for this year’s art exhibit began as a way to pay tribute to the freeride culture– a culture that prioritizes creative self-expression.

Now, the FWT is a global phenomenon. However, before, it started as a small group of mountain enthusiasts and skiing and snowboarding fanatics.

The FWT has always been about sharing a love for riding new lines, experimenting with new techniques and technology, and expanding the boundaries of freeriding. However, unbeknownst to us, the competing athletes and supporting staff members all possess other hidden talents.

Therefore, this year’s art exhibit will showcase a glimpse of those various talents.

FWT Featured Artists

The FWT23 Kicking Horse BC art exhibit will present the unique artwork of three talented artists.

Andrew Pollard

Andrew Pollard is a freeride legend in his own right. However, off the slopes, Andrew loves painting natural landscapes. This year, he teamed up with the FWT to produce a poster series that depict each of the five legendary competition venues.

Andrew Pollard created a poster series for the 2023 Freeride World Tour.
© Freeride World Tour

Dom Daher

Dom Daher was the FWT’s first official photographer. He has dedicated his life to taking photographs not only of action and adventure in the high peaks but also of the beaches and bustling cities he encounters throughout his travels.

Jeremy Bernard

Jeremy Bernard has been a part of the FWT photographer crew for 13 seasons. He is an outdoor enthusiast that enjoys mixing natural elements into his artwork. Jeremy’s intrigue for the world around him is always very apparent in his portfolio of photographs.

Supporting the Freeride World Tour

If you are one of the lucky ones who can attend the FWT in Kicking Horse BC event in person, you can see the exhibit at the Civic Center in Golden, BC.

Afterward, the organizers of this special event will continue to display the artwork at the Whitetooth Brewing Company.

All the pieces are for sale and can be purchased. Aftward, the FWT will donate proceeds to Wildsight Golden, a charity focused on combating ecological issues and supporting environmental conservation.

Andrew Irvine: The Lost Climber

February 14, 2023 by Sergei Poljak

Who Was Andrew Irvine?

Andrew “Sandy” Comyn Irvine was born on April 8, 1902, in Birkenhead, England. He was born into a family with roots in Wales and Scotland. Irvine demonstrated intellectual and athletic prowess from a young age. Although his father was a historian, Irvine went on to study engineering at Merton College, University of Oxford. Irvine was a talented rower and a member of the university’s successful crew team. He also joined the mountaineering team, where he probably received his first exposure to technical climbing. 

Photo: The Sandy Irvine Trust, UK

At Oxford, Irvine continued to excel academically. During the First World War, he gained recognition from the British military for his schematics relating to improvements for British warplanes. As he continued to tinker, design, and innovate, it became clear that Irvine possessed an intelligence bordering on genius. 

Andrew Irvine also participated in the Merton College Arctic Expedition to Spitsbergen, which exposed him to conditions similar to those on Mount Everest. His performance in the harsh environment of these northern latitudes caught the attention of expedition leader Noel Odell. By that time, Odell was already a renowned climber and would later play a significant role in the 1924 disappearance of Irvine and celebrated climber George Mallory on Mount Everest.

The 1924 British Everest Expedition and Andrew Irvine’s Death

Noel Odell first suggested Irvine as a candidate for the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition. His recommendation resulted in Andrew Irvine’s selection as a member of the climbing team for the third British attempt at the world’s tallest peak. General Charles Bruce, another prominent member of the expedition, affectionately referred to Irvine as “our experiment,” for he had no prior experience in high-altitude mountain climbing. Ultimately, the team may have chosen Irvine for his knowledge and invention of an apparatus to deliver supplemental oxygen. Mallory and other leaders of the 1924 expedition had become convinced that supplemental oxygen was the key to the summit. 

Mallory himself seemed to trust the young student, stating that Irvine “could be relied on for anything except perhaps conversation.” During the expedition, Irvine made significant improvements to the oxygen sets, making them more functional, lightweight, and durable. He also took care of the expedition’s cameras, camp beds, stoves, and other equipment. He was well-liked and respected by his older colleagues for his intelligence, friendly nature, and tireless work ethic.

Andrew Irvine and George Mallory. Photo: Liverpool Echo

Summit attempt

By early June, the expedition had twice failed to reach the summit. A last attempt was possible before the heavy snowfalls of the summer monsoon season would make climbing too dangerous. Naturally, the final chance fell to the expedition’s most experienced climber, George Mallory. Even if he had survived, it would have been Mallory’s final attempt at the summit. He was 37 years old and, by his own calculations, too old for another attempt. 

To the surprise of other members, Mallory chose the 22-year-old and inexperienced Irvine over the older and more experienced climber, Noel Odell. Andrew Irvine’s expertise with the oxygen equipment was likely a major factor in Mallory’s decision. However, there is an ongoing debate about the exact reasons for his choice. In retrospect, it’s easy to speculate that Irvine’s rare intellectual ability and youthful athletic prowess served as a beacon and inspiration to Mallory. During Irvine’s short life, his ability to impress those around him continually opened new opportunities. 

Armed with Irvine’s custom oxygen apparatus, the team made swift progress up the ridge. Modern calculations estimate that they may have climbed as much as 850 feet/hour during this time. 

In the early afternoon of June 8th, teammate and support member Noel Odell spotted the pair climbing over either the first, second, or third step (exactly which of the three remains a mystery) and making fast progress toward the summit:

“At 12.50, just after I had emerged from a state of jubilation at finding the first definite fossils on Everest, there was a sudden clearing of the atmosphere, and the entire summit ridge and final peak of Everest were unveiled. My eyes became fixed on one tiny black spot silhouetted on a small snow-crest beneath a rock step in the ridge; the black spot moved. Another black spot became apparent and moved up the snow to join the other on the crest. The first then approached the great rock step and shortly emerged at the top; the second did likewise. Then the whole fascinating vision vanished, enveloped in cloud once more.” 

– Noel Odell

It was an inspiring moment, but it was ultimately the last time either man would be seen alive. They are neither the first nor the last of the many bodies that have come to litter Everest over the years.

Speculation Surrounding the First Ascent Of Everest

Whether George Mallory, Andrew Irving, or both men made it to the summit has been subject to intense speculation. Many mountaineers have put in their two cents on what happened, but the best testimony on the subject is probably from Conrad Anker. In 1999, he led an expedition to recover Mallory and Irvine’s bodies. Although he found Mallory’s remains, Irvine’s body still rests somewhere on the mountain.

Anker believes that it is theoretically possible, but improbable, that either man reached the summit before their death. The climbing over the second step (later dubbed The Hilary Step) is hard. Climbers say it goes free at about 5.9, which is the limit of Mallory’s climbing at sea level without the extreme conditions and lack of oxygen on the summit pyramid of Everest. For the timetables to make sense, the men would have to have been moving at a very high speed to the summit and back down. Mallory was a strong climber, but Andrew Irvine, although young and athletic, had no high-altitude climbing experience. He also had relatively little technical rock climbing experience and could not have climbed 5.9 at sea level. No traces of the team were ever found on or near the summit. Here is a more in-depth discussion of all the evidence available.

Perhaps the whole discussion is fundamentally flawed. Mallory’s son John, who was three years old at the time of his father’s death, has stated, “To me, the only way you achieve a summit is to come back alive. The job is only half done if you don’t get down again.”

Photo: New York Times

Possible Andrew Irvine Sightings

Over the years, a few interesting reports from Chinese climbers have surfaced. In 1965, a member of the 1960 Chinese expedition, Wang Fu-chou, gave a talk at the USSR Geographical Society in Leningrad. During his speech, he made a shocking statement. “At an altitude of around 8,600 meters, we came across the body of a European person.” When asked how he knew the person was European, the Chinese climber simply replied, “He was wearing braces.”

Xu Jing, the deputy leader of the 1960 Chinese expedition, mentioned that as he was descending from the First Step, he noticed a deceased climber lying face up with his feet pointing uphill. The body had lodged in a crevice or slot in the rock. Prior to 1960, no one besides Mallory and Irvine had gone missing on the north side of Everest. Mallory’s body was found at a lower altitude and it was highly likely that Xu had found Andrew Irvine. However, the sighting was brief and Xu was struggling during the descent. While he remembered seeing the body, he couldn’t recall its exact location.

In 1979, Japanese climber Ryoten Hasegawa had a short conversation with a Chinese climber named Wang Hong-bao. Wang told him that during the 1975 Chinese Everest Expedition, he had come across the body of a “dead Englishman” at an altitude of 8,100 meters. The body was lying on its side as if asleep at the base of a rock. Wang knew the man was British, he said, by the old-fashioned clothing, which was rotting and disintegrating when touched. He poked his finger into his cheek to indicate an injury. Unfortunately, Wang perished in an avalanche the next day.

The Lost Camera and the 1975 Chinese Expedition

Mallory and Irvine carried a vintage Kodak camera on their fateful climb. Many enthusiasts have pointed to the “lost camera” as the answer to the greatest mystery in the history of mountaineering. Yet, despite the efforts of dozens of the world’s best mountaineers and technology, no traces of either Irvine or the camera have ever been found. 

In 2022, climber Mark Synnott published an article in Salon detailing the possibility that a 1975 Chinese expedition found the camera and buried Andrew Irvine’s body under rocks. The theory is that the climbers returned to China with the camera and that one of two things happened. The first theory is that the images were successfully developed, as Kodak claims is a possibility. The film showed that Mallory and Irvine had in fact reached the summit. This would unseat the Chinese claim to the 1960 first ascent of Everest by the North Col route. Not wanting to lose their coveted title, the Chinese government choose to cover up the evidence. A second theory posits that the Chinese botched the development of the film and hid the evidence to avoid international embarrassment. 

The story is based entirely on “credible” rumors and no actual evidence. Either way, it’s an interesting read and Salon goes into much more detail than I do. You’ll have to read their story and decide for yourself.  

Grivel Candela, review

February 13, 2023 by endorfeen

Key Specifications

The Grivel Candela is a multi-functional tool designed for ice climbing with several useful features.

  • Activities: ice climbing
  • Materials/construction/technologies: plastic, steel
  • Price: around £20 / €25

How Grivel describes the Candela

It serves as a tool for removing ice from ice screws. The Candela can also be used for building anchors and Abalakoffs, with its extraction hook for pulling lanyards and retractable blade for cutting lanyards or webbings.

The tool features a plastic hook for easy attachment to a harness, and it can be stored inside the ice screws without causing any damage due to its soft plastic material.

Key Considerations on the Grivel Candela

Overview of the Candela

Candela is a 27g V-threading multi-tool with a vibrant yellow colour, typical of Grivel’s products. It was designed with portability and convenience in mind. The goal was to create a tool that could be stored neatly on a harness. This makes it a great option for those looking for a compact and efficient tool.

The Candela boasts a 14mm diameter that allows for a perfect fit inside a standard 21-22 cm screw. This makes it easy to store. It is then secured in place with plastic clasps moulded onto the neck of the tool.

The Grivel Candela is a crucial piece of gear for exiting ice climbs. Thanks to its fold-out hook that can pull the cord through a V-Thread (Abalakov) anchor. It also features a retractable blade for cutting sling material once the anchor is complete. Additionally, the tool is made of soft plastic, which allows for the safe cleaning of ice from screws without causing any scratches.

By slipping the Candela into a screw, you can have a compact and comprehensive V-threading setup. The plastic clasps that hold the tool in place may loosen over time, but a simple strip of duct tape can provide the necessary reinforcement to keep it secure.

Grivel Candela

In addition to its V-threading capabilities, the Candela’s screw diameter design also allows it to serve as a ramrod for clearing soft ice from screws. However, care should be taken to avoid snapping off the hooked end. Another advantage of its design is its effectiveness in cleaning slush out of holes drilled into wet ice. The bright yellow colour is also a helpful alignment indicator. It makes it easier to line up the second screw when placed in the first hole.

A soft Plastic Clip

The Candela is equipped with a moulded plastic clip. This is for temporary attachment to your harness (if you do not have a 21-22 cm screw readily available). However, it is not recommended to use this clip as a permanent storage solution, as it may become detached from your gear loop.

A spring-loaded wire gate would be a more secure and efficient alternative. Nevertheless, the plastic clip serves as a practical temporary attachment while setting up a V-thread with screws, a cord, and other equipment.

Despite its flexibility, the plastic used in the clip is not prone to becoming rigid or breaking, even in cold temperatures.

It would have been desirable if the clip was larger or designed as a larger eye to be used with a proper carabiner.

Hook Design

The hook design of the Candela ice screw tool is highly praised for its ingenuity. The hook can be folded down and stored within the tool body and then rotated out and into place like a jackknife. This design effectively protects the hook from snagging on clothing and other gear and eliminates the risk of spontaneous V-threading. However, straight out of the box, the Candela’s hooking performance may not be as effective as expected.

The ability to fold and store the hook is crucial in preventing snagging on clothing and gear.

Blade

Another feature of the Candela is a short serrated blade located near the tip of the tool. It’s made of stamped metal and riveted to the plastic, but it is not suitable for primary cutting tasks. The blade should only be considered as a backup option.

The retractable blade on the tool could have been omitted to reduce the risk of accidental cuts and save cost.

Grivel Candela Review

The Candela ice screw tool is considered one of the best and most well-designed on the market. Its small profile allows for easy clearance of screws. It also enables users to see into v-thread holes while pulling something through.

The tool serves as a multi-tool, including a knife, ramrod, and alignment indicator, and can be stored neatly inside 21-22 cm screws. The threading hook can be folded into the unit for safe and easy carrying, and a plastic hook at the head allows for temporary clipping while completing other threading tasks.

Pros: Neat storage inside 21-22 cm screws. Multi-tool function with knife, ramrod, and alignment indicator. Safe and easy to carry with the threading hook folded into the unit. Temporary clipping capability with the plastic hook at the head.

Cons: The stamped metal blade should only be used as a backup knife. Clips holding the unit in the ice screw may weaken with age, but a wrap of duct tape can solve this issue. The threading hook needs to be unbent and sharpened before use. There is a natural weak point where the hook folds into the unit, requiring care when folding it out, especially with gloves on.

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