The East Ridge of the Pyramide du Tacul

Pyramide du Tacul – A story told in photos.

June had just begun, and I was heading up the Midi with a new friend and climber partner. Dave Luke and I had been on a shorter trip a week or so before, but this would be our first real trip together.

About the route (taken from Jonathan Griffith/Alpine Exposures): Pyramide du Tacul is a satellite to the Mont Blanc du Tacul on its east side. The normal route is the east ridge or east arête of the Pyramide du Tacul. It has a D- grade and a not too tricky rock route on fine granite. You can find the route (number 20) in the Rébuffat book of the hundred fines routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Ditching boots and glacier kit at the base of the route.

Dave is questing through blocky terrain. This was the crux of the route at 5a, but key footholds were wet, so it felt a little more complicated!

We moved together for every other pitch before this, so I didn’t manage to get many photos. I was thinking about the lift down and trying to move as quickly as possible, Dave was the one who decided we pitch out the last few lengths, and I’m glad he did. While I wasn’t stoked about spending a night in the hut, the weather was beautiful, and we were in such a great part of the range. It would have been a waste to miss everything just to save an hour!

Pyramide du Tacul — On the summit at around 1 pm. The last lift down is 4.30 pm! Dave’s face says it all!

Racing down. Until we got a rope stuck anyway… Great looking crack climbs up this face with bolted belays. I can’t find it anywhere, but it made an excellent rap line.

Coming back from Pyramide du Tacul — Too late for the lift. To Cosmiques for the alpine hotel experience.

70eu for a night’s board! Damn, that’s a week living at the moment. Have to do it once, I guess. Bumped into two friends, Andy and Hilton from South Africa, who had just had a great day on the South Face of the Midi.

Took the Cosmiques Arete back to the lift station. My only other time on this route was totally underwhelming, and I didn’t really see what all of the fuss was about. However, with much less snow, perfect conditions and not another soul in sight (started at 4 am), it was all-time! The perfect end to a trip. Cheers, Dave, for a good mission!

Ryan Colley

Growing up on the rugged west coast of New Zealand, Ryan's passion for the outdoors started at an young age. That has since grown into a love for mountains and he has been fortunate enough to base his life around climbing.