Diving into their Canadian expedition, Matthias Scherer, alongside the adept climbers Tanja Schmitt and Heike Schmitt, kicked off the first leg of their ambitious project at Quebec’s Rivière Sainte-Marguerite.
This adventure in Québec was not just a test of their climbing prowess but a lesson in facing the capricious elements— from biting winds to sudden temperature plunges. Their journey underscores the essence of meticulous preparation, essential gear, and the invaluable support of a tight-knit team. Embark with us on exploring their experiences, offering a compelling narrative for outdoor enthusiasts intrigued by the allure of ice climbing in Canada’s majestic landscapes.
From Childhood Dreams to Ice-Climbing Excellence: The Journey of Matthias Scherer
Matthias Scherer’s path to becoming a professional mountaineer, climber, and skier is a testament to the power of lifelong passion and dedication. From his early days as a child, when he first laid eyes on the majestic icefalls at Megève, near Mont Blanc, Scherer was captivated by the allure of ice. This fascination with the frozen cascades he observed at Côte 2000 sparked a dream that has driven his entire career.
Scherer’s journey into the world of ice climbing began in the winter of 1992-1993 in the Austrian Alps, where he embarked on his first solo climbs. Armed with a pair of ice axes and crampons from Stubai, Scherer had no ropes or ice screws, relying solely on his skill and determination. This bold start marked the beginning of a lifelong commitment to ice climbing, fueled by an insatiable curiosity to explore the unknown and marvel at the intricate structures of frozen water.
The turning point in Scherer’s career came in 1998 when he met Tanja and Heike, both accomplished athletes and mountain enthusiasts. This encounter not only enriched his climbing endeavours but also led to significant personal relationships, with Tanja becoming his life partner and Heike, a high mountain guide, joining them in many of their adventures. Together, they have conquered over a thousand icefalls, from Norway to Canada and the Italian Alps, where they currently reside.
One of their most notable achievements is the repeated ascents of the famous Repentance icefall, which they have climbed 62 times to date. This feat underscores their deep-rooted passion for ice climbing, a passion that Scherer successfully transitioned into a professional career in 2005. Scherer’s dedication and skill eventually attracted partnerships with major outdoor companies such as Arc’teryx, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Norrøna, and Petzl. With Petzl, Scherer and Tanja have played a crucial role in developing new products and serving as ambassadors for the brand.
Scherer’s story is not just about his achievements and the brands he represents; it’s about the relentless pursuit of a childhood dream. It’s a narrative that resonates with the outdoor enthusiast community, illustrating the power of passion and perseverance in overcoming challenges and achieving greatness in the mountains. Matthias Scherer’s journey from a dreamer gazing at icefalls in Megève to a globally recognized professional ice climber is a source of inspiration for anyone who dares to follow their dreams.
Exploring the Unique Terrain of Rivière Sainte-Marguerite: Matthias Scherer’s Quebec Adventure
Matthias Scherer’s recent expedition to Rivière Sainte-Marguerite in Quebec offers a glimpse into a unique and challenging ice-climbing destination. Known for its significant role in the history of ice climbing in Quebec, Rivière Sainte-Marguerite stands out not only for its technical challenges but also for its breathtaking natural beauty and the unique environmental conditions it presents.
The history of ice climbing at this site dates back to the 1990s, marking the beginning of a series of first ascents defining the area as a high technical engagement venue. There are no easy routes here, a fact that adds to the allure and challenge of the place. Scherer described the fascination of climbing above the Sainte Marguerite River, noting the presence of an electric dam and its proximity to the sea, which creates an enchanting environment similar to that found in Norway, where sea-near climbing is common.
Situated 600 kilometres north of Quebec City, the journey to Rivière Sainte-Marguerite itself is an adventure. Scherer remarked on the changing flora and the increasingly Nordic ambience, reminiscent of his experiences in Norway. The nearest village, providing the closest accommodation, exudes an atmosphere akin to Inuit villages, reinforcing the feeling of being deep in the north. “The light here is very Nordic, yet distinct,” Scherer commented, highlighting the unique beauty of the ice under the intense light—a spectacle unlike any other he has experienced across the globe.
The wind plays a significant role in shaping the ice formations at Rivière Sainte-Marguerite, creating fascinating sculptures that make this location exceptional. During his visit, Scherer and his team tackled several routes, including Speedy Gonzales and Le Mulot, each offering incredible ice formations and challenges.
Opting for a more traditional approach to accessing the climbing spots, Scherer chose cross-country skiing over snowmobiling to transport their equipment. This method, while physically demanding, especially against the wind, allowed them to immerse fully in the stunning landscape. Scherer’s dedication to the sport and the environment is evident in his preference for the effortful yet rewarding approach to each climb.
Reflecting on the experience, Scherer praised the hospitality and kindness of the local people, adding another layer of warmth to the cold, northern adventure. His recommendation for those exploring the area is clear: “Take cross-country or Nordic skis; it’s truly worth it. The landscape is magical.”
Rivière Sainte-Marguerite, with its challenging climbs, unique ice formations, and the remarkable effort required to reach and explore its routes, stands as a testament to the adventurous spirit of climbers like Matthias Scherer. This destination not only offers a physical challenge but also an opportunity to connect with the raw beauty and harshness of nature, making each ascent a memorable experience.
The Genesis of a Quebec Ice Climbing Adventure: Matthias Scherer’s Vision Comes to Life
The inception of Matthias Scherer’s Quebec ice climbing project is a tale of passion, long-term planning, and serendipity. For Scherer, ice climbing isn’t just a sport; it’s the essence of his life. He believes that for those truly dedicated to their passion, there are certain places that call to them compelling exploration and adventure. Quebec, with its renowned ice climbing locales, has always been one such place for Scherer, akin to the famed ice climbing destinations of Cogne, Norway, and the Canadian Rockies.
Scherer’s dream of climbing in Quebec has been brewing for nearly seven to eight years, a period during which the idea gradually took shape amidst discussions and invitations from local climbers. However, transforming passion into a professional expedition requires more than desire; it demands the right timing and support. This year, a pivotal moment arrived when Petzl, one of Scherer’s sponsors, inquired if he could attend the Festiglace, an ice climbing festival in Pont Rouge, Quebec. This presented an ideal opportunity to combine his professional commitments with his personal climbing aspirations.
Scherer’s approach to the project is methodical and reflective of his deep respect for the sport and the regions he explores. “It’s been a long-time dream of mine to climb here, at the Rivière Sainte Marguerite, and now also to explore the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Malbaie sector next week,” Scherer shared, highlighting the importance of merging professional endeavours with personal exploration to make the most of the journey.
The planning phase of the project underscores the essence of adventure climbing – a blend of meticulous preparation and the embrace of unexpected opportunities. Scherer’s anticipation of the expedition grew as he engaged with the local climbing community, known for its vibrant passion and shared love for ice climbing. “Here in Quebec, it’s a bit like Norway but broader. There’s a large community of ice climbers who really share a passion for ice, for the beauty of ice. And that appeals to me a lot,” Scherer remarked, expressing his admiration for the communal spirit of climbers in the region.
This expedition marks Scherer’s first ice climbing venture in Quebec, adding a new chapter to his extensive climbing experiences in Canada, beginning with his first Rockies trip in November 2008. Since then, Scherer has returned almost every winter, forging a strong bond with the landscapes and communities he encounters.
Scherer’s journey to Quebec is a testament to the power of perseverance and the importance of following one’s passion. It illustrates that the path to achieving one’s dreams is often a long one, filled with anticipation, preparation, and the willingness to seize opportunities as they arise. For Scherer, this project is not just another climbing expedition; it’s the fulfilment of a vision, years in the making, brought to life through the convergence of professional opportunities and personal ambition.
The Companions
In Matthias Scherer’s latest Quebec ice-climbing adventure, he was not alone. Accompanying him were Tanja Schmitt and Heike Schmitt, two seasoned climbers with whom Scherer has shared a profound bond and numerous ascents over the past twenty-five years. This trio, bound by their shared experiences and dedication to climbing, has become a formidable team in the ice climbing community.
Scherer’s climbing journey with Tanja has been particularly significant, with the pair having tackled almost all their climbs together, barring a few exceptions. Their partnership extends beyond the ropes and ice axes, reflecting a deep mutual understanding and trust that only decades of climbing together can forge. Heike, equally skilled and passionate about the mountains, has been an integral part of this circle, contributing to the team’s successes with her expertise and enthusiasm.
For this expedition, their team will be joined by Steve Swenson, a good friend and frequent climbing partner of Scherer’s. Swenson’s addition to the group was a natural fit, bringing his own wealth of climbing experience and knowledge to the venture. Together, they planned to navigate the challenging terrain of the Hautes-Gorges-de-la-Malbaie in two separate climbing parties.
This carefully selected team underscores the importance of companionship, experience, and trust in the challenging environments encountered in ice climbing. Each member brings their unique strengths and perspectives, enhancing the group’s dynamic and overall effectiveness. For outdoor enthusiasts who understand the rigours and rewards of ice climbing, the composition of Scherer’s team exemplifies the essence of collaboration and shared passion that drives adventurers to explore the world’s most daunting landscapes.
As Matthias Scherer and his team conclude their exhilarating venture at Rivière Sainte-Marguerite, the journey is far from over. With the addition of Steve Swenson, they are set to continue exploring deeper into the Canadian Rockies. Their adventure is a vibrant call to outdoor enthusiasts everywhere, inviting them to embrace the challenges and beauty of ice climbing in Canada’s rugged terrain. Stay tuned as their journey unfolds, promising more insights and thrilling escapades in the heart of the Rockies.
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