{"id":1922,"date":"2022-02-07T17:09:53","date_gmt":"2022-02-07T17:09:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/?p=1922"},"modified":"2023-08-18T11:02:42","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T10:02:42","slug":"voie-pierre-allain-leininger","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/fr\/voie-pierre-allain-leininger\/","title":{"rendered":"Voie Pierre Allain Leininger"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Pierre Allain Leininger est le second episode de \u00ab\u00a0Face Nord des Drus\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’inertie du bivouac faisant, nous reprenons \u00e0 8h l’ascension ou nous l’avions laiss\u00e9e : \u00e0 la 20\u00e8me longueur. Aurelia grogne et s’emploie en t\u00eate : les difficult\u00e9s sont nettement sup\u00e9rieures dans les longueurs du haut de la face. Le vent qui nous a caress\u00e9 le visage la nuit n’a fait que se renforcer et nous assaille pour ne nous laisser aucun r\u00e9pit. La fatigue se fait ressentir. Nous progressons plus lentement, l’escalade en devient laborieuse, alors que chaque longueur est pourtant d’une grande beaut\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les difficult\u00e9s ?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Les longueurs clefs, juste sous le sommet sont pour moi, comprenez que je les grimpe en t\u00eate. Enkilos\u00e9 par le froid, je redoute mon tour. Mais l’app\u00e9tit vient en mangeant, le plaisir de grimper en t\u00eate me transcende et une nouvelle \u00e9nergie m’envailli. Les longueurs me paraissent finalement plus faciles que celles grimp\u00e9es par mes compagnons de cord\u00e9e. Allez comprendre!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

A 17h, Lorrys d\u00e9niche un trou qui nous permet d’acc\u00e9der \u00e0 la face sud, juste sous le sommet du Petit Dru. Nous profitons de quelques instants suspendus de chaleur a la lumi\u00e8re du soleil couchant, sans vent, en face sud. Mais seulement quelques minutes apr\u00e8s cette pause, nous r\u00e9alisons d’un seul homme que nous n’avons aucune id\u00e9e de comment rejoindre la br\u00e8che du couloir Nord, qui sera le point de d\u00e9part de notre descente.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bastien
credits: @bastien_levy<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Je tente le coup de fil \u00e0 un ami, Jordi Noguere<\/a>, qui conna\u00eet bien l’endroit. Coup de th\u00e9\u00e2tre, celui ci se trouve \u00eatre au refuge de la Charpoua, juste au pied des Drus. \u00ab\u00a0Vous \u00eates habill\u00e9s en orange, c’est bien \u00e7a ?!\u00a0\u00bb. Moi, je suis assis sur mon caillou, je souris b\u00e9atement : oui, c’est bien ma doudoune que tu vois du bas !! Jordi nous explique comment rejoindre la br\u00e8che.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les rappels<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

A 20h, nous rejoignons les premiers rappels. Ils se passent dans le couloir Nord des Drus, goulotte d’une incroyable raideur qui nous laisse l’impression de descendre sur un toboggan sombre et sans fin, digne d’un conte pour enfant. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Au 4eme rappel, le n\u0153ud de rabout de corde se coince derri\u00e8re une \u00e9caille. Les regards d\u00e9sabus\u00e9s et la mine livide de mes compagnons me fait comprendre qu’\u00e0 23h, au milieu de nul part, la situation devient critique. D’un grand geste ample, j’improvise une derni\u00e8re tentative avant de couper la corde, et le n\u0153ud se debloque, nous glissant dans les mains. Gagn\u00e9! Ivres de joie, mes compagnons de cord\u00e9e me serrent dans leur bras, comme si j’avais marqu\u00e9 un but en final de coupe du monde!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Voie Pierre Allain Leininger – l’arriv\u00e9e<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

4h plus tard, nous prenons pied au dessus de la rimaye, ultime rappel avant la fin des difficult\u00e9s. Hagard de fatigue, nous taillons un champignon de neige. Thibault descend, il siffle de joie d’\u00eatre arriv\u00e9 en bas. A mon tour, je teste le champignon, puis m’\u00e9lance dans la descente. Je passe la l\u00e8vre de la rimaye, quand soudain la corde cisaille le champignon. Ma descente se termine en chute libre. Je m’\u00e9crase lourdement dans le fond de la rimaye. Plusieurs m\u00e8tres en contrebas, je grogne de rage \u00e0 l’id\u00e9e de terminer la course de cette mani\u00e8re.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Sonn\u00e9 mais indemne, je sors de mon trou, Lorrys Bouniol et Aur\u00e9lia Lano<\/a>e me rejoignant \u00e0 leur tour. Nous d\u00e9ambulons jusqu’\u00e0 retrouver nos skis, \u00e0 1h du matin. On glisse jusqu’au pied du fameux \u00ab\u00a0Couloir des Poubelles\u00a0\u00bb, pour le remonter p\u00e9niblement. La fatigue nous \u00e9treint, la mont\u00e9e para\u00eet interminable. Finalement, c’est \u00e0 4h30 du matin que nous rejoignons les voitures \u00e0 Argenti\u00e8re, terrass\u00e9s par notre journ\u00e9e qui durera pr\u00eat de 24h.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Bastien
credits: @bastien_levy<\/a><\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n

La voie Pierre Allain Leininger – une incroyable aventure<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Sur le coup, la course est tellement dure que nous nous demandions sans cesse si cela en valait la peine.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais le repos et la prise de recul m’apportent comme \u00e0 chaque grande course la satisfaction d’\u00eatre all\u00e9 au bout de moi m\u00eame, d’avoir v\u00e9cu intens\u00e9ment quelques heures qui me paraissent \u00e0 pr\u00e9sent \u00eatre une \u00e9ternit\u00e9. Comme si les couleurs \u00e9taient plus intenses, les lumi\u00e8res plus belles, les gorg\u00e9es d’eau plus r\u00e9paratrices, les snickers plus go\u00fbteux\u2026 une incroyable aventure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Une fois encore je suis abasourdi de l’audace des pionniers de l’alpinisme qui ont deffrich\u00e9 des faces avec des moyens mat\u00e9riels d\u00e9risioires\u2026 messieurs, je crois n’\u00eatre pas fait du m\u00eame bois que vous. Vous avez mon plus grand respect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Je souhaite remercier une \u00e9ni\u00e8me fois mes compagnons de cord\u00e9e pour cette magnifique aventure en face nord, leur t\u00e9nacit\u00e9, leur passion, leur sens du partage, leur patience avec mes blagues parfois (trop) peu dr\u00f4les.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Un tr\u00e8s grand merci \u00e0 notre ange gardien Jordi Noguere qui nous a guid\u00e9s comme une \u00e9toile polaire aurait guid\u00e9 des marins en perdition\u2026<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pierre Allain Leininger est le second episode de \u00ab\u00a0Face Nord des Drus\u00a0\u00bb L’inertie du bivouac faisant, nous reprenons \u00e0 8h l’ascension ou nous l’avions laiss\u00e9e : \u00e0 la 20\u00e8me longueur. Aurelia grogne et s’emploie en t\u00eate : les difficult\u00e9s sont nettement sup\u00e9rieures dans les longueurs du haut de la face. Le vent qui nous a …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":1939,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[170,158],"tags":[182],"sponsor":[1087],"class_list":{"2":"type-post","7":"category-aventures","8":"category-prophetes","9":"tag-chamonix","10":"sponsor-endorfeen","11":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nVoie Pierre Allain Leininger - endorfeen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Voie Pierre Allain Leininger. 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