{"id":1920,"date":"2022-02-07T17:07:21","date_gmt":"2022-02-07T17:07:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/?p=1920"},"modified":"2023-08-18T11:02:43","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T10:02:43","slug":"face-nord-des-drus-en-hiver","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/fr\/face-nord-des-drus-en-hiver\/","title":{"rendered":"Face Nord des Drus en hiver"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Les origines<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Tout d\u00e9bute un soir d’hiver. Inspir\u00e9 par les alpinistes chevronn\u00e9s dans les faces nord des Alpes depuis le debut de l’anticyclone, je r\u00eave secr\u00e8tement d’aller y faire un tour moi aussi. Je t\u00e9l\u00e9phone \u00e0 Thibault Cheval<\/a>. Lorrys Bougnol<\/a> et lui sont chauds d’aller se mettre un chantier mixte dans le massif du Mont-Blanc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Assez vite, le nom de la voie Lesueur est \u00e9voqu\u00e9. Cette voie mixte se passe dans la face nord du Grand Dru, montagne sur laquelle j’ai failli laisser ma peau il y a quelques ann\u00e9es.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Les \u00e9motions sont m\u00eal\u00e9es : une excitation palpable \u00e0 l’id\u00e9e de me frotter \u00e0 ce g\u00e9ant de granit, mais aussi la crainte de m’engager dans un projet aussi audacieux, surtout en plein hiver.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Mais je tr\u00e9pigne \u00e0 l’id\u00e9e de retourner en montagne \u00ab\u00a0pour moi\u00a0\u00bb, \u00e0 savoir \u00e0 la recherche de mes propres limites, sans client.
L’interview de M. Lesueur en personne et sa franche bonhommie racontant l’ouverture de la voie en 52 finit de me convaincre : je suis chaud bouillant !!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Arriver \u00e0 Chamonix<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Je d\u00e9barque dans la Mecque de l’alpinisme lundi soir, la voiture pleine \u00e0 craquer de matos. On discute autour d’une bi\u00e8re de la voie, des alternatives. Thibault et Lorrys sont formels au vue de leur journ\u00e9e test dans une voie mixte : Lesueur, trop dure. Pendant ce temps, Aurelia se joint \u00e0 nous pour boire une bi\u00e8re. Nos discussions lui mettent la puce \u00e0 l’oreille. Apr\u00e8s mon plaidoyer endiabl\u00e9 pour \u00ab\u00a0se mettre la mission\u00a0\u00bb, la d\u00e9cision est prise. On d\u00e9cide de mettre le cap sur la voie Pierre Allain Leininger tous les 4.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ce nom r\u00e9sonne dans un coin de ma t\u00eate : j’avais grimp\u00e9 la face sud de la Meije ouverte par ce m\u00eame alpiniste visionnaire qu’est Pierre Allain, probablement ma plus belle course jusqu’alors. J’avais trouv\u00e9 cette voie sublime.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Premier jour, nous d\u00e9collons des Grands Montets \u00e0 9h, skis aux pieds pour une approche par le bien-nomm\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0Couloir des poubelles\u00a0\u00bb. La neige est b\u00e9ton arm\u00e9, le couloir est inskiable. Nous derapons p\u00e9niblement les 300m sans arriver \u00e0 faire le moindre virage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

Au pied de la Face Nord des Drus<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Les sacs sont lourds, le dos souffre (d\u00e9j\u00e0 ?!).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nous arrivons au pied de la face nord des Drus<\/a>, elle est immense. Un enchev\u00eatrement de piliers, di\u00e8dres, dalles, fissures granitiques monumentales. 12h30, nous d\u00e9marrons les longueurs faciles du socle.
Instants magiques lorsque le soleil couchant vient nous immerger de sa lumi\u00e8re ros\u00e9e. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Nous qui pensions ne pas voir le soleil du s\u00e9jour, ce dernier nous fait mentir en nous r\u00e9chauffant d\u00e9licieusement le dos.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

8h plus tard, nous d\u00e9boulons \u00e0 toute berzingue au bivouac tant convoit\u00e9 au sommet de la 19\u00e8me longueur. Heureux comme des papes d’y \u00eatre arriv\u00e9s, nous lan\u00e7ons les hostilit\u00e9s culinaires apr\u00e8s un bon terrassement de nos futures couches. Nous fermons les yeux \u00e0 23h. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le froid est implacable, la temp\u00e9rature descend en dessous des -10\u00b0C. Thibault et Lorrys partagent un duvet et 1 matelas pour 2. La morsure du froid et du vent qui se l\u00e8ve me r\u00e9veille p\u00e9riodiquement, jusqu’\u00e0 me laisser \u00e9veill\u00e9 pour de bon \u00e0 5h30 du matin.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lisez la suite au prochain \u00e9pisode : \u00ab\u00a0Voie Pierre Allain Leininger\u00a0\u00bb<\/a><\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Les origines Tout d\u00e9bute un soir d’hiver. Inspir\u00e9 par les alpinistes chevronn\u00e9s dans les faces nord des Alpes depuis le debut de l’anticyclone, je r\u00eave secr\u00e8tement d’aller y faire un tour moi aussi. Je t\u00e9l\u00e9phone \u00e0 Thibault Cheval. Lorrys Bougnol et lui sont chauds d’aller se mettre un chantier mixte dans le massif du Mont-Blanc. …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":8,"featured_media":1969,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[170,158],"tags":[182],"sponsor":[1087],"class_list":{"2":"type-post","7":"category-aventures","8":"category-prophetes","9":"tag-chamonix","10":"sponsor-endorfeen","11":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nFace Nord des Drus en hiver - endorfeen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Face Nord des Drus. Tout d\u00e9bute un soir d'hiver. 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