{"id":1888,"date":"2021-01-05T14:16:38","date_gmt":"2021-01-05T14:16:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/jacques-balmat-mont-blanc\/"},"modified":"2023-08-18T11:03:05","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T10:03:05","slug":"jacques-balmat-mont-blanc","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/fr\/jacques-balmat-mont-blanc\/","title":{"rendered":"Jacques Balmat, Mont Blanc"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Jacques Balmat ou \u00ab\u00a0Mont-Blanc\u00a0\u00bb est n\u00e9 en 1762 dans la vall\u00e9e de Chamonix. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le 8 ao\u00fbt 1796, avec son associ\u00e9, le docteur Michel-Gabriel Paccard, il marque l’histoire avec la premi\u00e8re ascension du Mont-Blanc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jacques Balmat conduit Horace-B\u00e9n\u00e9dict de Saussure au sommet de la montagne l’ann\u00e9e suivante.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

C’\u00e9tait un chasseur de chamois et de cristal mais avant tout un homme amoureux des montagnes chamoniardes. Il a particip\u00e9 \u00e0 la cr\u00e9ation de la c\u00e9l\u00e8bre \u00ab\u00a0Compagnie des Guides\u00a0\u00bb \u00e0 Chamonix, \u00e9tant l’un des premiers guides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ajoutant \u00e0 la l\u00e9gende, il est mort d’une mort myst\u00e9rieuse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

De la chasse au quartz \u00e0 la chasse \u00e0 la plus haute montagne d’Europe<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jacques Balmat est n\u00e9 le 19 janvier 1762, au hameau \u00ab\u00a0Les P\u00e9lerins\u00a0\u00bb, dans la vall\u00e9e de Chamonix. Deux ans plus t\u00f4t, Horace-B\u00e9n\u00e9dict de Saussure, contemplant le Mont-Blanc, avait promis une r\u00e9compense \u00e0 celui qui trouverait un chemin jusqu’au sommet de la montagne. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balmat est n\u00e9 dans une famille de paysans. La vie paysanne est rude dans la vall\u00e9e : r\u00e9colter des r\u00e9coltes faibles \u00e0 cause de l’altitude et du terrain escarp\u00e9, g\u00e9rer la transhumance chaque ann\u00e9e, couper du bois… \u00ab\u00a0Balmat\u00a0\u00bb est un nom assez courant dans la r\u00e9gion, mais Jacques Balmat \u00e9tait diff\u00e9rent. Il \u00e9tait instruit et savait lire et \u00e9crire.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il \u00e9tait chasseur de chamois et de cristal. Alors qu’il avait une r\u00e9putation (il vendit un minerai de quartz \u00e0 Goethe<\/a> en 1779), ce qu’il pouvait gagner de ces activit\u00e9s ne suffisait pas \u00e0 subvenir aux besoins de sa famille. Attir\u00e9 par le d\u00e9fi et la r\u00e9compense du Saussure, il d\u00e9cide de mettre ses comp\u00e9tences au service d’un autre objectif : l’ascension du Mont-Blanc.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

La r\u00e9v\u00e9lation de Jacques Balmat et la premi\u00e8re ascension<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Un jour, il croise un groupe de 3 grimpeurs qui vont bivouaquer \u00e0 la Montagne de la C\u00f4te<\/a> . Ils sont en route pour rejoindre deux autres guides, de St Gervais, au sommet de l’ Aiguille du Gouter<\/a> . <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Balmat les rejoint. Malgr\u00e9 leurs r\u00e9ticences, Jacques Balmat les pousse jusqu’au D\u00f4me du Gouter, puis vers le sommet du Mont-Blanc. Balmat se retrouve \u00e0 califourchon sur une ar\u00eate tr\u00e8s expos\u00e9e, pour s’apercevoir que son groupe l’a abandonn\u00e9. Il d\u00e9cide de rebrousser chemin. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Comme il est trop tard pour regagner le campement, il est oblig\u00e9 de passer la nuit sur le glacier en tapant du pied pour s’assurer qu’il ne g\u00e8le pas. Alors que cette nuit semble interminable et douloureuse, il en grandit : il apprend qu’on peut passer la nuit sur un glacier et il sait d\u00e9sormais que le Mont-Blanc est \u00e0 sa port\u00e9e.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il commence \u00e0 chercher un partenaire. Il choisit le Dr Paccard, qui a soign\u00e9 sa fille auparavant. Balmat savait qu’il \u00e9tait un alpiniste exp\u00e9riment\u00e9. Michel-Gabriel Paccard acquiesce rapidement.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Ils d\u00e9cident d’\u00eatre tr\u00e8s discrets sur leurs projets et conviennent de se s\u00e9parer et de se retrouver au bivouac de la Montagne de la C\u00f4te. Pour leur ascension, ils n’avaient ni corde, ni piolet, ni crampons. Leur seul outil est un Alpenstock, une longue perche en bois<\/a> . Ils transportent \u00e9galement une charge d’\u00e9quipement scientifique comprenant un barom\u00e8tre, un thermom\u00e8tre et un t\u00e9lescope.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le 8 ao\u00fbt 1786, ils quittent le bivouac vers 4 heures du matin. A 18h23, ils atteignent ensemble le sommet de \u00ab\u00a0la Taupin\u00e8re\u00a0\u00bb (\u00ab\u00a0taupini\u00e8re\u00a0\u00bb) comme Balmat appelait le Mont-Blanc. Paccard s’est assur\u00e9 que deux t\u00e9moins les suivaient depuis la vall\u00e9e \u00e0 l’aide d’un t\u00e9lescope. Il prend aussi son temps pour prendre quelques mesures. Il est 18h57 lorsque les deux hommes quittent le sommet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

En descendant, Paccard perd le chapeau qui le prot\u00e8ge du soleil. Aid\u00e9 par Balmat, il arrivera presque aveugle dans la vall\u00e9e.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\"Statues<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"Jacques<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
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La fin de l’amiti\u00e9 Balmat\/Paccard et la deuxi\u00e8me ascension<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Le r\u00e9cit de la premi\u00e8re ascension du Mont Blanc a \u00e9t\u00e9 progressivement d\u00e9menti et manipul\u00e9 pour valoriser un homme (Balmat) et rabaisser son compagnon (Paccard).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’instigateur de cette fausse d\u00e9claration \u00e9tait Marc-Th\u00e9odore Bourrit, un autre voyageur alpin qui n’avait lui-m\u00eame pas r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 trouver un itin\u00e9raire vers le sommet du Mont Blanc et qui a \u00e9crit des r\u00e9cits de l’ascension r\u00e9ussie d\u00e9nigrant le r\u00f4le jou\u00e9 par Paccard et promouvant Balmat comme le leader \u00ab plus courageux et plus en forme \u00bb. . En fait, c’\u00e9tait Paccard qui \u00e9tait le chef des deux et qui avait atteint le sommet le premier. Malheureusement, le mal \u00e9tait fait maintenant, et Balmat continuait \u00e0 se vanter d’une mani\u00e8re vaniteuse de sa part dans l’ascension, et Chamonix a choisi de le croire. Cela a rompu l’amiti\u00e9 Paccard\/Balmat.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il appartient \u00e0 Balmat de conduire Saussure au sommet le 3 ao\u00fbt 1787. Il y trouvera sa v\u00e9ritable cons\u00e9cration. Le Roi de Sardaigne (Chamonix appartenait au royaume de Sardaigne) lui d\u00e9cerne le nom de \u00ab\u00a0Balmat le Mont-Blanc\u00a0\u00bb. Cela lui conf\u00e8re une forte notori\u00e9t\u00e9.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Malgr\u00e9 son nouveau statut, Balmat ne changera pas son mode de vie. Il gravira 11 fois le Mont-Blanc, avec des clients comme guide ou pour son propre plaisir. Il conduira Marie Paradis en 1809 au sommet de la montagne. Elle deviendra la premi\u00e8re femme \u00e0 gravir avec succ\u00e8s les plus hautes montagnes des Alpes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Jacques Balmat gravit le Mont-Blanc, pour la derni\u00e8re fois, en 1817. En 1821 lorsque la \u00ab\u00a0Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix\u00a0\u00bb est cr\u00e9\u00e9e, son nom est le premier des 34 guides.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Il meurt dans la montagne \u00e0 72 ans. Personne ne retrouvera jamais son corps.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Jacques Balmat ou \u00ab\u00a0Mont-Blanc\u00a0\u00bb est n\u00e9 en 1762 dans la vall\u00e9e de Chamonix. Le 8 ao\u00fbt 1796, avec son associ\u00e9, le docteur Michel-Gabriel Paccard, il marque l’histoire avec la premi\u00e8re ascension du Mont-Blanc. Jacques Balmat conduit Horace-B\u00e9n\u00e9dict de Saussure au sommet de la montagne l’ann\u00e9e suivante. C’\u00e9tait un chasseur de chamois et de cristal mais …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1629,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[156,158],"tags":[164,161],"sponsor":[1087],"class_list":{"2":"type-post","7":"category-lieux","8":"category-prophetes","9":"tag-guider","10":"tag-histoire","11":"sponsor-endorfeen","12":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nJacques Balmat, premier homme sur le Mont-Blanc - endorfeen<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jacques Balmat est n\u00e9 le 19 janvier 1762, au hameau "Les P\u00e9lerins", dans la vall\u00e9e de Chamonix. 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