{"id":1886,"date":"2020-12-22T19:16:20","date_gmt":"2020-12-22T19:16:20","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/avant-le-piolet-cetait-lalpenstock\/"},"modified":"2023-08-18T11:03:05","modified_gmt":"2023-08-18T10:03:05","slug":"avant-le-piolet-cetait-lalpenstock","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/fr\/avant-le-piolet-cetait-lalpenstock\/","title":{"rendered":"Avant le piolet, il y avait l’Alpenstock"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
\n

Un b\u00e2ton en bois sur le Mont-Blanc<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Jacques Balmat<\/a> et son confr\u00e8re le Docteur Paccard furent les premiers \u00e0 gravir le Mont-Blanc en 1786 avec succ\u00e8s. Ils portaient un alpenstock avec eux. C’est un long b\u00e2ton en bois \u00e0 pointe d’acier, utilis\u00e9 par les alpinistes. Il est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme l’anc\u00eatre du piolet moderne.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Le b\u00e2ton d’escalade \u00e9tait en bois de h\u00eatre, d’if ou de sapin. Ils pr\u00e9sentent tous des caract\u00e9ristiques diff\u00e9rentes (poids et rigidit\u00e9).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

L’alpenstock de Balmat \u00e9tait un gros b\u00e2ton de 3 m\u00e8tres. Lorsque Saussure fit son ascension (en ao\u00fbt 1787), il en avait un de 2,6 m\u00e8tres avec lui. Bien que personne ne connaisse son inventeur, l’alpenstock a \u00e9t\u00e9 le premier outil universellement utilis\u00e9 par les alpinistes.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

\n
\n
<\/div>\n<\/div>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n
  • \"Jacques<\/figure><\/li>
  • \"Portrait<\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
    \n

    L’Alpenstock et le plus ancien piolet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

    Josias Simmler, th\u00e9ologien et classiciste suisse, auteur du premier livre consacr\u00e9 uniquement aux Alpes (XVIe si\u00e8cle), mentionnait d\u00e9j\u00e0 l’existence et l’utilisation de l’Alpenstock (\u00ab l’alpinus baculus \u00bb).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Il est utilis\u00e9 comme support dans les pentes raides ou pour sonder les glaciers et les crevasses. En raison de sa longueur, l’alpiniste l’utiliserait \u00e9galement pour aider un autre grimpeur. L’Alpenstock n’est pas un outil de martelage ni d’ancrage. Les alpinistes utilisaient tr\u00e8s souvent une petite hache pour tailler des marches dans la neige ou la glace par exemple.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    D\u00e8s le XVIIIe si\u00e8cle, l’association de l’Alpenstock et du piolet donne naissance aux premiers piolets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

    Jusqu’en 1870, l’habitude \u00e9tait pour le guide d’utiliser un piolet et pour le touriste d’utiliser l’alpenstock. La longueur de la perche avait beaucoup diminu\u00e9. En 1875, l’Alpenstock \u00e9tait un b\u00e2ton de bois de 1,8m \u00e0 2m, tel que d\u00e9crit par la Soci\u00e9t\u00e9 de Tourisme Dauphin\u00e9. Fabriqu\u00e9 en bois r\u00e9sistant, il doit permettre au grimpeur de se tenir dessus sans le casser.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

    • \"\"<\/figure><\/li>
    • \"\"<\/figure><\/li><\/ul><\/figure>\n\n\n\n
      \n

      Sa fin<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

      Alors qu’il \u00e9tait encore utilis\u00e9 par certains, dans certaines vall\u00e9es, l’alpenstock a disparu des montagnes apr\u00e8s la Seconde Guerre mondiale.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      L’une des derni\u00e8res histoires impliquant l’anc\u00eatre du piolet est l’\u00e9vasion du caporal Anton H\u00f6rnle des Gebirgsj\u00e4ger (\u00ab\u00a0chasseurs de montagne\u00a0\u00bb). Il est fait prisonnier \u00e0 l’hiver 1944-45 par des alpinistes fran\u00e7ais, Jacques Boell, un officier des troupes alpines, Alain Le Ray, et le capitaine St\u00e9phane.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Alors que l’alpiniste allemand se trouvait sur la \u00ab pointe de Ronce \u00bb (3 612 m), il se fait arr\u00eater par le groupe fran\u00e7ais. Apr\u00e8s avoir pass\u00e9 du temps ensemble, Anton H\u00f6rnle, profite d’un bref moment d’inattention, pour saisir son alpenstock et d\u00e9valer une pente tr\u00e8s raide (plus de 40 degr\u00e9s), perdant les soldats fran\u00e7ais derri\u00e8re lui.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

      Bien qu’utilis\u00e9 pendant des si\u00e8cles, le piolet plus moderne a rapidement remplac\u00e9 l’alpenstock en toutes occasions.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

      Un b\u00e2ton en bois sur le Mont-Blanc Jacques Balmat et son confr\u00e8re le Docteur Paccard furent les premiers \u00e0 gravir le Mont-Blanc en 1786 avec succ\u00e8s. Ils portaient un alpenstock avec eux. C’est un long b\u00e2ton en bois \u00e0 pointe d’acier, utilis\u00e9 par les alpinistes. Il est consid\u00e9r\u00e9 comme l’anc\u00eatre du piolet moderne. Le b\u00e2ton …<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1624,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"_genesis_hide_title":false,"_genesis_hide_breadcrumbs":false,"_genesis_hide_singular_image":false,"_genesis_hide_footer_widgets":false,"_genesis_custom_body_class":"","_genesis_custom_post_class":"","_genesis_layout":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[160],"tags":[161],"sponsor":[1087],"class_list":{"2":"type-post","7":"category-apparatus-fr","8":"tag-histoire","9":"sponsor-endorfeen","10":"entry"},"yoast_head":"\nAlpenstock - savez-vous ce que cela pourrait \u00eatre ? endorfeen -<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Jacques Balmat et son confr\u00e8re le Dr Paccard, premiers \u00e0 r\u00e9ussir l'ascension du Mont-Blanc en 1786, poss\u00e9daient un alpenstock. Utilis\u00e9 une fois par tous les alpinistes..\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/endorfeen.com\/fr\/avant-le-piolet-cetait-lalpenstock\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"fr_FR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Avant le piolet, il y avait l'Alpenstock\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Jacques Balmat et son confr\u00e8re le Dr Paccard, premiers \u00e0 r\u00e9ussir l'ascension du Mont-Blanc en 1786, poss\u00e9daient un alpenstock. 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