Baruntse Climb Expedition – Nepal

General overview

At 7,129 metres (23,390 feet), Baruntse lies in the heart of the Himalayan giants of Nepal and has a higher summit success rate than comparable peaks. Our expedition offers an opportunity to climb this classic 7,000 metre peak, located in a more remote area of the Khumbu region in Nepal in a relatively short amount of time. The summit affords some of the best views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu that can be seen anywhere in the Himalaya.

Our Baruntse / Mera trip gives members the opportunity to warm up on Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,247 feet). Mera Peak is a classic, easier, Nepali peak. It is an excellent training ground for the more challenging Baruntse. Both trips (Mera/ Baruntse and Baruntse only) cross the incredibly beautiful Amphu Labtsa Pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet). This stunning pass is one of the most impressive passes in the Himalayas and is one of the highlights of the expedition.

Our full-service expedition includes:

• British, European, or American leader or Expert Sherpa
• Expert climbing Sherpa
• Transport to base camp to/from Kathmandu, including accommodation
• Yak transport of all equipment to and from basecamp
• Warm up climb on Mera Peak (not included on Baruntse only climb)
• Skillful base camp cooks
• Three meals each day
• Group emergency equipment and satellite phone
• Private tents in basecamp (no sharing)
• Full base camp with dining tent, showers, bathroom, and solar charger
• Double occupancy tents above base camp
• All permit fees and liaison officers
• Use of group gear and supplies
• Two nights stay in a Kathmandu hotel on arrival and two nights prior to departure in a double room. Private rooms are available for a small additional fee.
• Airport transfer

What is not included?

• International flights to/from Kathmandu
• Mountain climbing rescue and travel insurance
• Personal climbing equipment and clothing
• Gratuities for staff
• Nepalese visa

Itinerary

1) Arrive Kathmandu 1,300 metres (4,265 feet). Stay at hotel.
2) Orientation day, equipment checking, gear shopping and sightseeing in Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
3) Drive to Salleri town, 2,360 metres (7,740 feet). Large village in the foothills of Everest. Stay at hotel.
4) Drive to Bung village, 1,800 metres (5,904 feet). Entry to Makalu Barun National Park Headquarters. Stay at hotel.
5) Walk to Khiraule, 2,460 metres (8,069 feet). Visit Chambaling Monastery. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
6) Walk to Cholemkharka, 3,580 metres (11,742 feet). Beautiful hill farming and yak pastures. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
7) Rest day in Cholemkharka, acclimatization hike nearly to 4,000 metres (13,120 feet). Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
8) Walk to Khola Kharka, 4250 metres (14,000 feet), passing through famous Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) mountain range. Sleep in Teahouse or Camp.
9) Walk to Kothey, 3,500 metres (11,483 feet), beautiful mountain village surrounded by forest. Sleep in Teahouse.
10) Walk to Tagnag, 4,300 metres (14,108 feet), stunning scenery on the east side of Mera Peak. Sleep in Teahouse.
11) Walk to Khare at 5,000 metres (16,404 feet). High Alpine Village at the starting point for Mera La crossing. Sleep in Teahouse.
12) Rest day at Khare, check equipment, fixed rope training, acclimatization, explore the surrounding area. Sleep in Teahouse.
13) Climb to Mera Peak High Camp, 5,768 metres (18,924 feet). amazing views of Everest and all Himalaya. Camp.
14) Summit Mera Peak, 6,476 metres (21,246 feet), descend to Kongma Dingma in the beautiful remote Hongu Valley, 4,850 metres (15,908 feet). Camp.
15) Very Short Trek to Setho Pokhari, 5,003 metres (16,414 feet). The beautiful Hongu Valley Trek passes massive peaks such as mighty Mt. Chamlang. Camp.
16) Walk to Baruntse basecamp, 5,380 metres (17,646 feet). Basecamp is in a large bowl at the base of the mountain itself.
17) Rest & Acclimatization, Sherpa prayer ceremony (puja).
18) Glacier and fixed rope training on small ice walls near basecamp.
19) Climb to camp 1 on the West Col, 6,126 metres (20,100 feet) using fixed ropes. Stunning views of Baruntse climbing route and massive Mt. Makalu.
20) Very short climb to camp 2 at 6,350 metres (20,828 feet). Camp 2 lies at the base of the Baruntse Ridge.
21) Summit attempt using fixed ropes, 7,129 metres (23,390 feet).
22) Extra day for summit attempt, return to basecamp.
23) Return to basecamp, rest, pack up.
24) Hike through the scenic Panch Pokhari (5 Lakes) valley to base of Amphu Labtsa pass, 5450 metres (17,876 feet). Camp.
25) Cross Amphu Labtsa pass, 5,845 metres (19,177 feet) to Chukkung village, 4,750 metres (15,584 feet). A very beautiful day of climbing and trekking to Khumbu/Everest valley, passing Island Peak. Sleep in teahouse.
26) Walk to Pangboche village 3,985 metres (13,070 feet). Famous Everest base camp trekking route with many lodges and restaurants and beautiful scenery of Mt. Ama Dablam. Sleep in teahouse.
27) Walk to Namche Bazaar, 3,450 metres (11,319 feet). This big village is the capital of the Sherpa people. Teahouse.
28) Walk to Lukla, 2,860 metres (9,383 feet). Village containing the famous airport used for flights between Everest region and Kathmandu. Sleep in teahouse.
29) Flight to Kathmandu. Stay at hotel.
30) Extra day in Kathmandu, in case of delay, and for sightseeing, gift shopping, celebration, saying goodbye to new friends. Stay at hotel.
31) Fly home.

Good to know

Leadership

Leadership: Dan Mazur is a relaxed, friendly, well organized, and highly skilled professional with over 20 years of experience leading people to the summits of Everest, K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum, Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Manaslu, Shishapangma and Baruntse.

Sherpas: We employ some of Nepal, Tibet, and the Karakorum’s best local mountaineers and Sherpas to assist team members in realizing their summit goals. Our friendly and loyal high altitude climbing staff has supported teams to the summits of more than ten of the highest peaks in the Himalaya.

Experience and Training

Extensive experience is not required for climbing Baruntse. The most important thing is for members to be in adequate walking fitness. You may attempt this climb as a novice and we will teach you what you need to know. No further experience is required.

To participate in this expedition you must be a very fit and active winter-walker-climber in good health. Prior to joining our group, please see your doctor and obtain the necessary permission and advice, as well as medications for travel in extremes of altitude, and also for exotic locales.