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Archives for June 2023

The Mount Kenya: Majesty and Mystery of the African Mountain

June 28, 2023 by endorfeen

Towering proudly over the Kenyan landscape, Mount Kenya, the country’s highest point and the second tallest peak in Africa, incites admiration amongst the people surrounding it. Majestically rising to the south of the equator, this ancient red volcano is situated approximately 150 kilometres north-northeast of Nairobi, the capital. Its loftiest summits, Batian, Nelion and Lenana, reach respective heights of 5,199 metres, 5,188 metres, and 4,985 metres, offering a sublime spectacle to anyone who has the privilege to behold them.

Mount Kenya, whose name means “mountain of the ostrich” in the language of the Wakamba people who reside at its base, was formed approximately three million years ago as a result of the opening of the East African rift. Its slopes, which were once covered by a vast glacier cap, have gradually been eroded over time by weather and elements, giving it its unique terrain and the numerous valleys that descend from its peak. Today, a dozen small glaciers in rapid retreat bear testament to this glacial past, persisting despite frequently negative temperatures and an extremely variable climate.

Mount Kenya
© Alcock Muller, Unsplash

Revealed to the European community in 1849 by Johann Ludwig Krapf, the existence of Mount Kenya and its equatorial snow was long a source of scepticism. It wasn’t until 1883 that its presence was officially recognised, and 1899 before the summit was conquered by Halford John Mackinder’s team. Today, Mount Kenya is a favoured destination for climbing enthusiasts, owing to the numerous routes and shelters available for the ascent of its main peaks.

In addition to its topographic splendour, Mount Kenya is also renowned for its biological richness. Eight distinct vegetation zones carpet its slopes, forming a complex ecosystem where numerous species, such as lobelias, senecios, and rock hyraxes, have made homes. To safeguard this biodiversity, a 715 km2 area around the summit has been declared Mount Kenya National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that attracts over 15,000 visitors each year.

Quick Links
  • Mount Kenya: A Journey through Toponymy and Etymology
  • Exploration of Majestic Mount Kenya Geography
  • Geology
  • Climate
  • The Fascinating Flora and Fauna of Mount Kenya
  • At the Heart of History: The Tales and Legends of Mount Kenya
  • Populations and Traditions
  • Embrace the Adventure: Activities and Experiences at Mount Kenya
  • Mount Kenya, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

Mount Kenya: A Journey through Toponymy and Etymology

Enriched with a lengthy history and varied traditions, Mount Kenya bears the imprints of local tribes who have interacted with it over the ages. These tribes have attributed various names to the mountain, instilling deep significance and playing a crucial role in shaping the country’s current name.

Indeed, each tribe has its own designation for Mount Kenya. The Kikuyu call it Kirinyaga, meaning the “white mountain” or “shining mountain”, while the Embu opt for Kyrenia, which signifies the “mountain of whiteness”. The Maasai name it Ol Donyo Eibor or Ol Donyo Egere, translating respectively as the “white mountain” and “spotted mountain”. However, the Kamba refer to it as Kiinyaa, meaning the “mountain of the ostrich”, a reference to the contrast of the snow-capped peaks against the black rocks, reminiscent of the male ostrich’s plumage.

Mount Kenya from space
Mount Kenya from space – © Sémhur, Wiki Commons

The deformation of Kiinyaa into Kegnia, as noted by Johann Ludwig Krapf during his observation of the mountain in 1849, marked the starting point of the evolution of the mountain’s name spelling. At that time, referring to the mountain did not necessitate the addition of ‘Mount’ before its name. The current place name ‘Mount Kenya’ only began to appear in 1894 before being officially recognised in 1920 with the foundation of the Colony and Protectorate of Kenya, previously the British East Africa Protectorate. Later, in 1963, with Kenya’s independence and the election of Jomo Kenyatta as its first president, there ensued a change in the pronunciation of Kenya to ˈkɛnjə, thereby aligning the English and French pronunciations.

The naming of the peaks of Mount Kenya comes from three distinct sources. The peaks Batian are named in honour of the Maasai chief M’batian and his family: Nelion for his brother Nelieng, Sendeyo for his eldest son, and Lenana for his second son and successor. These names were proposed by Halford John Mackinder at the suggestion of Hinde, a resident officer of Maasailand. Other peaks carry the names of famous climbers or explorers such as Eric Shipton, Sommerfelt, Bill Tilman, Dutton and Arthur. Some have been christened after well-known Kenyan personalities, with the exception of the John and Peter points, which were named after two disciples of the missionary Arthur.

Thus, the toponymy and etymology of Mount Kenya reflect not only its natural and geological history but also the cultural heritage of the people who have encountered it throughout the ages.

Exploring the Majestic Geography of Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya: Geographic Majesty and Breathtaking Uniqueness

Majestically rising to an altitude of 5,199 metres, Mount Kenya dominates the landscape at the heart of Kenya, at a distance of approximately 150 kilometres north-northeast of the capital, Nairobi. The giant peak, which marks the highest point in the country and is the second highest summit in Africa, lies just south of the equator. Its rival, Kilimanjaro, is located 320 kilometres further south, on the Tanzanian side of the border.

Surrounded by the towns of Nyeri to the southwest, Nanyuki to the northwest, and Embu to the southeast, Mount Kenya is administratively shared between the counties of Meru, Tharaka-Nithi, Embu, Kirinyaga, and Nyeri. It displays an almost circular volcanic complex stretching over a diameter of 80 to 100 kilometres. A road that runs around its base extends for over 300 kilometres in length.

However, despite its impressive size and influence, Mount Kenya is nearly half as voluminous as Kilimanjaro. This disparity in volume highlights the uniqueness of each mountain, with each peak showcasing its own distinct appearance, character, and magnificence.

The Majestic Peaks of Mount Kenya: Elevation and Volcanic Splendour

Proudly raising their summits to the sky, the peaks of Mount Kenya, predominantly of volcanic origin, present an awe-inspiring spectacle. These mountain formations are concentrated near the heart of the mountain. They exhibit a distinctive alpine appearance, marked by their sharply defined profile and rising at the intersection of the ridges. A little further away, the necks are adorned with a mantle of volcanic ash and earth.

These peaks, each more majestic than the last, reach dizzying altitudes: Batian Peak reaches a height of 5,199 metres, Nelion Peak rises to 5,188 metres, and Lenana Peak comes in at 4,985 metres. The first two summits are separated by an evocative passageway named the “Gate of Mist”. Distinguished from the others because of its location outside the central formation, Coryndon Peak, with its altitude of 4,960 metres, is the fourth highest.

Surrounding these main peaks, other summits such as Pigott Point (4,957 metres), Dutton Point (4,885 metres), John Point (4,883 metres), Lower John Point (4,757 metres), Slade Point (4,750 metres) and Midget Peak (4,700 metres) rise, their pronounced pyramidal shapes offering spectacular relief to the whole. South of the Gorges Valley, a ridge is home to many other high peaks. Further north of the main formation, Terere (4,714 metres) and Sendeyo (4,704 metres) raise their twin peaks, forming a distinctive configuration on the flank of this exceptional mountain.

Hydrography, The Watercourses and Glaciers of Mount Kenya: A Lifeline and its Fragility

The slopes of Mount Kenya are dotted with streams, thus feeding two of the country’s largest rivers: the Tana and the Ewaso Ng’iro. They are of vital importance, providing water to nearly two million people. Each stream is named after the village on the mountainside where it flows. For instance, the Thuchi River marks the border between the Meru and Embu districts. In 1988, the Tana was particularly crucial for the country’s economy, supplying 80% of Kenya’s electricity through a series of seven hydroelectric facilities.

Ewaso Ng'iro River
Ewaso Ng’iro River – © Jesse Allen, Wiki Commons

The density of watercourses is notably remarkable on the lower slopes that glaciers have never covered. In the higher parts, the ancient ice cap that covered the mountain during the Pliocene moulded vast glacial valleys, presenting a unique “U” profile, typically centred around a broad river. This is where the shield volcano’s relief was preserved, with the glaciers having carved the mountain’s flanks for thousands of years. Consequently, the mountain’s lower section is characterised by frequent and deep valleys with a “V” profile. The transition between these two types of valleys is distinctly visible.

Many streams from Mount Kenya, such as the Keringa and the Nairobi to the southwest, pour into the Sagana, a tributary of the Tana. Others, like the Mutonga, Nithi, Thuchi, and Nyamindi to the south and east, flow directly downstream into the Tana. The waterways that wind down the northern slope, such as the Burguret, Naro Moru, Nanyuki, Liki or Sirimon rivers, feed into the Ewaso Ng’iro.

At the glacier level, the only hanging glacier on Mount Kenya is situated between the Batian and Nelion peaks, with the remainder being valley or cirque glaciers. Currently, these glaciers are undergoing rapid retreat. Historic photographs, preserved by the Mountain Club of Kenya in Nairobi, demonstrate a significant reduction in the glaciers compared to their state during the first ascent of the mountain in 1899. Regrettably, the total disappearance of the glaciers is projected for the mid-2030s. In 1980, their overall surface area was estimated at 0.7 square kilometres. These glaciers include the Northey, Krapf, Gregory, Lewis, Diamond, Darwin, Forel, Heim, Tyndall, Cesar and Josef.

Geology

Orogeny and Geology: The Volcanic Remnants of Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya is an extinct stratovolcano whose eruptive phase took place between 2.6 and 3.1 million years ago. Its creation is attributed to the opening of the East African Rift, a geological phenomenon which also gave birth to its neighbour, Mount Kilimanjaro. At one point, Mount Kenya likely reached an impressive height of 6,500 metres, boasting a profile similar to that of today’s Kilimanjaro. However, erosion caused by the ice cap has reshaped its structure, reducing its altitude.

Today, the highest peaks of Mount Kenya are the remnants of the most durable volcanic materials. These solidified under the old main crater, forming a crystalline rock known as syenite. This granular plutonic magmatic rock is composed of alkali feldspar, nepheline, biotite and hornblende, which gives it exceptional durability.

The outskirts of the main peaks are scattered with a variety of rock formations. There are found tuffs, conglomerates, and rocks resulting from lava flows, offering a rich and complex geological mosaic that attests to the ancient volcanic activity of this majestic mountain. Thus, Mount Kenya embodies a genuine 3D geological chronicle of East Africa’s orogenesis.

Variety of Soils from Mount Kenya: An Ecosystem Rich in Composition

Mount Kenya is a living canvas of ecological and geological diversity, revealed through the composition of its soils that change from one altitude to another, expressing a complex symphony of natural events.

At the highest altitudes, over 4000 meters, soils are the result of recent glaciations, where organic life is scarce. Here, loams marked by traces of biological life blend with a landscape dominated by scree. Morainic soils and eroded ridges, with more varied forms of organic life, are common beneath these elevations. These soils are fairly young, generally less than 10,000 years, and become finer as they age.

Descending from the altitude of the moors to the bamboo zone, the soils, once covered by the ice cap, are now humic, housing a diverse range of organic life. Intense rainfall caused by the anabatic winds on the western side induces leaching of the soil, leading to the deposit of silt amongst the rocks on the valley slopes. Numerous secondary volcanic vents speckle this area, and the soils covering them sharply contrast with the secondary craters in terms of organic life.

At an altitude ranging between 2000 and 3000 metres, on the lower slopes of the mountain that have never been covered by the ice cap, the forest predominates or alternatively, the land is cultivated. The soil is enriched with a thick layer of clayey humus, although the vegetation on the east and south slopes is less dense, exposing clayey soils. Conversely, the northwest slope harbours well-drained soil of a dark red hue.

At the foot of the mountain, on the foothills, the villages surrounding the mountain feature a dense network of streams flowing into deep valleys, producing brown silt in the centre, near the river beds, and clay on the sides. The soils in this region are generally very fertile, owing to their volcanic origin, and although they are easily erodible, they are protected by vegetation.

Mount Kenya also plays host to periglacial landforms, despite its location on the equator, due to the nocturnal temperatures that encourage the formation of permafrost, located just a few centimetres below the surface. These expansions and contractions on the surface of the soil prevent the establishment of robust vegetation. These diverse types of soils, rich and varied, contribute to the unique character of Mount Kenya and are a vital component of its ecosystem.

Weather

A Seasonal Ball: The Weather Whims of Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya, straddling the equator, boasts a remarkably unique seasonal climate system. With two wet seasons and two dry seasons, it’s a dynamic display of monsoon whims. From mid-March to June, the mountain is swamped by the “long rains” season. Following this deluge, a period of relative drought sets in until September, only interrupted by the “short rains” from October to December. The driest season, which extends from December to mid-March, then brings relief to the saturated lands.

The unique equatorial location of Mount Kenya gives rise to an intriguing phenomenon during the Northern Hemisphere’s summer when the sun is to the north of the mountain. This results in summer conditions on the northern slopes of the upper part of the mountain, whilst the southern slopes experience a pronounced winter. Conversely, during the Southern Hemisphere’s summer, the conditions reverse, creating a fascinating ballet of seasonal climate changes.

These fluctuations between the wet and dry seasons are primarily dictated by the Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ), a low-pressure belt that encircles the equator. During the two dry seasons, the ITCZ is positioned respectively above the Arabian Peninsula in July and then between the south of Tanzania and the north of Zambia in March. As the ITCZ moves across Kenya between these two extremes, the region enters a wet season.

The volume of rainfall, however, is not constant and largely depends on the surface temperature of the Atlantic and Indian Oceans, as well as the El Niño phenomenon. Warmer oceanic waters and a strong El Niño are often the harbingers of abundant rainfall.

The topography of Mount Kenya itself also significantly influences the local climate. Rising steeply from 1,400 metres to 5,199 metres, the mountain faces prevailing southeast winds throughout nearly the entire year, formed by a persistent low pressure above Tibet. However, in January, a reversal occurs, and north-easterly winds sweep across the mountain.

These winds, encountering the formidable obstacle of Mount Kenya during the wet season, bring moisture-laden air from the Indian Ocean. This air, perfectly stratified and cloudy, is generally diverted around the flanks of the mountain to encircle it, especially from June to October eventually. The rest of the year, it is not uncommon for the air to be forced to ascend, causing orographic rainfall, which can sometimes turn into violent storms. Thus, Mount Kenya experiences an endless atmospheric dance shaped by the monsoon, ocean currents and its own majestic stature.

A Celestial Ballet: The Daily Meteorological Variations of Mount Kenya

The daily weather fluctuations of Mount Kenya are marked by a predictable yet spectacular cycle. During the dry season, the African giant experiences wide temperature swings that oscillate between the extremes of day and night, a peculiarity so noteworthy that it inspired Hedberg to coin the phrase, “winter every night and summer every day.” While there may be variations in the minimum and maximum temperatures from one day to the next, the standard deviation of the hourly average remains low, reinforcing the regularity of this weather pattern.

The break of dawn brings a clear and crisp morning with minimal humidity. The direct rays of the sun illuminate the mountain, causing the temperatures to rise swiftly to a peak between nine o’clock and midday, the moment when the pressures generally reach their maximum.

As the day progresses, a noteworthy change occurs at lower altitudes, between 2400 and 3000 metres. The humidity brought by Lake Victoria begins to form clouds over the western forest area. Under the influence of anabatic winds caused by warm rising air, these clouds slowly progress toward the peak in the afternoon. Around three o’clock, ground-level solar radiation is at its least intense, and humidity is at its maximum, which results in an increase in both actual and perceived temperatures. By four o’clock, the pressure reaches a low point.

This daily cloud cover plays a vital protective role for the glaciers on the southwest slope, which without it, would be directly exposed to solar radiation each day, thereby hastening their melt. Continuing their ascent, the clouds eventually reach the dry air currents from the east, giving way to a clear sky from seventeen o’clock onwards and leading to another peak in temperature.

Mount Kenya, situated on the equator, enjoys an almost constant length of day throughout the year, with twelve hours of sunshine. The sun rises at 5:30 am and sets at 5:30 pm, providing an unchanging diurnal rhythm. At night, the sky is usually clear with catabatic winds blowing towards the valleys. Upstream of the low alpine zone, temperatures often drop below freezing, bringing the final touch to this daily ballet of the elements.

A Thermal Spectacle: Temperature Fluctuations on Mount Kenya

The temperatures of Mount Kenya offer a dramatic display of striking variations. On the lower slopes, in the territories, the fluctuation is particularly marked. An average disparity of 11.5 °C is observed over a day at 3,000 meters altitude, 7.5 °C at 4,200 meters and 4 °C at 4,800 meters. With the altitude, the diurnal fluctuation of temperatures decreases, thereby reducing the adiabatic temperature gradient during the day. This signifies that it is weaker than the average for dry air during the day. At night, this gradient is even lower, with katabatic winds from the glaciers causing it to drop further. It is not uncommon for temperatures to fall below -12 °C in the alpine areas. The temperature fluctuation is fewer during the wet season, with clouds acting as a thermal buffer.

The intimate relationship between temperature variations and direct solar radiation is another key element. Direct sunlight quickly heats the ground by a few degrees, which in turn leads to the warming of the air close to the ground. This air cools swiftly to reach equilibrium with the surrounding air when the sky becomes cloudy. Also, the layers of air located fifty centimetres above the ground in valleys transmit heat to the higher layers of air during the night.

During the clear nights of the dry season, the ground cools rapidly, in turn cooling the surrounding air. These thermal exchanges spark the circulation of catabatic winds from the ridges to the valleys, causing a temperature inversion phenomenon. The Teleki Valley, for instance, is often 2°C colder at night than the overhanging ridges, an observation made by Baker. The local flora, such as lobelias or senecios, have had to adapt to these extreme conditions, with the result being that only the largest specimens survive freezing, which is typically lethal for their vital parts.

A Rainfall Paradise: Rains and Snowfall on Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya, which receives abundant rainfall, records its highest volume during the rainy season from mid-March to June, although this level varies significantly from year to year. During the wet seasons, downpours are almost incessant. Nearly half of the annual rainfall falls during the long rains, from mid-March to June, with another third of the total occurring between October and December, during the short rains.

Mount Kenya - snow
© Bonface, Unsplash

Despite seasonal variations, the southeast slope of the mountain remains the most rain-soaked throughout the year, a consequence of the prevailing wind direction. To the west, the abundance of rainfall is primarily due to the effects of the sun, which, when the sky is clear, drives the anabatic winds into the valleys, guiding the clouds towards the mountain summit in the early afternoon. Without this phenomenon, it has been proven that this area would, in fact, be in the rain shadow.

Beyond an altitude of 4,500 metres, most precipitation transforms into snow. However, due to the dry air that prevails at these heights, snowfalls are rather infrequent. Consequently, the nocturnal freeze constitutes the main source of water in alpine and snowy regions. It plays a paramount role in the nourishment of glaciers, even though there currently exists no accurate way to measure its contribution. Downstream, during the dry season, morning dew fulfils a similar function, and it’s estimated that the majority of small watercourses are fed in this way.

The Fascinating Flora and Fauna of Mount Kenya

The Floral Diversity of the Plains of Mount Kenya

Encompassing Mount Kenya, the plains, or “lowlands”, make up a significant portion of the East African plateau and are generally found at an altitude approaching 1,000 metres. The heat and drought that characterise the climate of these areas have fostered the growth of predominantly savannah vegetation, marked by the presence of thorny plants.

Savannah - Kenya
Savannah – © CT Cooper, Wiki Commons

A plethora of herb species thrive here, lending shades of green to this arid landscape. Trees and shrubs, scattered here and there, serve the various needs of the local populations. In these areas, the lantana and various species of euphorbia can frequently be found; these robust bushes are used in the building of hedgerows and palisades.

If the savannahs are home to clusters of original species, dominated by the Acacia and Combretum genera, they have also welcomed new species introduced for nutritional and economic needs. Eucalyptus and fruit trees are among these newcomers that have managed to adapt to this challenging climate, demonstrating nature’s capacity to reinvent itself in response to human challenges and needs.

The Cultivated Lands of Mount Kenya: An Evolving Agrarian Landscape

On the lower slopes of Mount Kenya, at an altitude below 1,800 metres, lies an area of intensive agricultural activity. These regions benefit from a soil enriched with moisture and high fertility due to previous volcanic activity. Once enveloped by lush forests, these lands are now laboriously cultivated, with residual trees serving as a reminder of species that were once present. Some of these trees have been preserved for particular reasons, whether for their sacred nature, as is the case with the fig, or for their practical use. It is not uncommon to see food crops growing in the shade of these silent giants, many of which were spared during deforestation to provide shade for cattle. At the same time, new exotic species such as pine, eucalyptus, and cypress have been introduced.

The impact of Europeans on the agricultural landscape of Mount Kenya is undeniable. Traditional crops such as millet, sorghum and yam, which were cultivated for subsistence during the 19th century, have been supplanted by more lucrative crops such as wheat and barley, favoured by the establishment of large farms.

The variable precipitation levels across the slopes have led to a diversity of crops. On the more humid southern inclines, tea, coffee and rice thrive. The drier northern slopes are favoured for potatoes, corn, citrus fruits and mangoes. To boost productivity, an irrigation system has been established. However, despite the significance of Mount Kenya as a water source, a decrease in the water quantity has been observed in the downstream regions, leading to periods of drought.

The plains of Mount Kenya were once the playground of numerous wild animals. Buffalos, rhinoceroses, lions and a variety of antelopes were commonly sighted, as were hippos and crocodiles inhabiting the rivers. Post-1900, most of these animals were either eradicated or migrated elsewhere, although some, such as hyenas and porcupines, still persist.

While ascending to an altitude of 1,800 to 2,500 meters, a forest of the hill stage is encountered. These forests are exploited by the locals for forestry industries, such as sawmilling, cabinetmaking, and construction. The least productive slopes of Mount Kenya are reserved for livestock farming, primarily for the production of milk.

The Montane Forest of Mount Kenya: A Fragile Ecosystem Abundant in Biodiversity

The landscape at Mount Kenya is characterised by remarkable floristic and faunistic diversity, which varies dramatically with altitude. The outer edge of the forests surrounding the massif starts at around 20 to 25 miles from the centre, where the glaciers are found, and extends for about 16 miles in thickness. The lower altitude of these forests ranges between 2,000 and 2,500 metres. The montane forest that requires at least 1,300 millimetres of rainfall per year primarily grows in the wettest areas. Like the northern slope, the drier slopes are covered with moorland and heather, as inadequate rainfall does not allow for forest development.

The local inhabitants have utilised these forests for centuries, with the harvesting of honey, timber, ivory, animal hides, and certain plants for their medicinal and presumed magical properties, being common practices. However, with the advent of European settlers in the 1890s, the forest underwent radical changes. New exotic plants were introduced, and the fertile soils of the lower slopes of Mount Kenya were appropriated for agriculture, leading to increased deforestation.

Forests are divided into two distinct zones based on the dominant tree species. In the south and east, one will find the humid forest dominated by Ocotea usambarensis, a species closely related to the camphor tree. The north and west are covered by juniper forests, with a small portion of forest extending northeast to the plains of Meru. These forests are threatened by fires which are often caused by the Maasai, who burn the grass to encourage the growth of new shoots after the rains.

On the southern and eastern slopes of Mount Kenya, the “African camphor” (Ocotea usambarensis) forest was extensively deforested by the Kikuyu for agriculture until the establishment of the Forest Administration Staff. The latter educated the Kikuyu about the importance of forest conservation to ensure their survival and sustainable use. The most common tree in this forest is the Mazaiti, which provides excellent hardwood and serves as a sanctuary for bees.

To the northeast of Mount Kenya, the forest on the heights of Meru is distinct for its slightly different species, some of which are now confined to this region due to deforestation. Mammals, such as monkeys, antelopes, rock hyraxes, porcupines, elephants, and African buffalos, coexist in these woods, although the rhinoceros has been hunted to extinction.

The forests of Mount Kenya comprise a rich and diverse ecosystem, albeit fragile. Despite the challenges posed by human exploitation and deforestation, they remain a haven for life and biodiversity, playing a pivotal role in the region’s ecological balance.

The Bamboo Zone of Mount Kenya: An Enchanted Ecosystem of Greenery and Life

The bamboo zone of Mount Kenya is a distinct altitudinal band, stretching between 2,200 and 3,200 metres. Like a natural crown, it encircles the mountain, providing a remarkable and unique spectacle in East Africa. This feature is authentically natural and cannot be attributed to deforestation activities.

Bamboo, specifically Yushania Alpina, is the dominant species in this area. Its growth is closely tied to the environmental conditions, requiring adequate rainfall, gentle terrain and fertile soil. Consequently, the density of these bamboos varies across regions: sparse in the north where conditions are less favourable and absent in some places, while in the west and on the moist slopes of the southeast, these bamboos can grow to dizzying heights, respectively exceeding nine and fifteen metres.

Bamboo - Mount Kenya
© Mehmet Karatay, Wiki Commons

The invasive nature of Yushania alpina significantly impacts the plant diversity in this area. The bamboo suppresses all other vegetation forms, hindering young trees’ growth. Nevertheless, a few large trees scattered about survive, remnants from a past when the vegetation was less dense.

In terms of wildlife, the bamboo region provides a relatively poor habitat. The woody stems of the bamboo are scantily attractive to most animals, resulting in a sparse variety of fauna. However, evidence of animal activity can be seen through the numerous trails crisscrossing the area. These paths are utilised by large mammals such as buffaloes and elephants during their migration between the forest and moorland. Occasionally, these giants of African wildlife indulge in a rare feast of young bamboo shoots.

The Subalpine Floor of Mount Kenya: A Floral Eden between Peaks and Valleys

Perched between 3,000 and 3,500 meters above sea level, the subalpine section of Mount Kenya unveils itself. This expanse, which descends to lower altitudes on arid slopes, is frequently dubbed the Hagenia-Hypericum zone, named after the modest trees that predominate there.

A wind of diversity blows over this kingdom of peaks, where species such as Kniphofia, imposing Lobelia and delicate African violets coexist in harmony. These latter, in particular, add a touch of colour and gentleness to the stark and wild atmosphere of this altitude. This idyllic scene portrays an ecosystem that continues to captivate those who love the mountains and wild nature.

The Moorland and Scrubland Zone of Mount Kenya: An Ecosystem of Contrasts and Diversity

Between 3,200 and 3,800 metres in altitude, the heath and scrubland region of Mount Kenya unveils unsuspected biodiversity, although it is less distinct than its counterparts on Kilimanjaro and the Rwenzori range. This region extends primarily on the eastern slope of Mount Kenya, benefiting from higher rainfall. In the valleys where it dominates, the terrain is often saturated with water, a fact attributable to the relative flatness and poor drainage of these environments. It is in this context that the famous “vertical bog” or “Vertical Bog”, a section of the Naro Moru route which ascends from the upper edge of the forest up to approximately 3,600 metres in altitude, stretches out.

On this damp terrain, the moors grandly unfold, primarily populated by shrubs and tree-like heath (Erica arborea) that can reach ten metres in height. The soil, meanwhile, is adorned with mosses, particularly sphagnum, sedge and rush (Juncus sp.) near bodies of water. All kinds of grasses abound on this marshy soil, interspersed with colourful flowers such as Geranium vagans, Kniphofia thomsonii, Disa stairsii, Gladiolus watsonioides, and Dichrocephala chrysanthemifolia var. alpina. Lobelia deckenii subsp. keniensis can also be found in wet areas, as well as gentians and other alpine species at the highest altitudes.

In the drier environments, the shrubland, or chaparral, prevails, sheltering a more aromatic flora dominated by Artemisia afra or Protea caffra subsp. kilimandscharica. These more drained areas, such as moraines and ridges, are more suitable for this type of vegetation.

As for the fauna, it is represented by the Mabuya varia, a common reptile that conceals itself among tufts of fescue and under rocks. Generally, the animals that inhabit this environment are a blend of forest and alpine species, including rats, mice, and voles, along with their natural predators such as eagles, hawks, and kites. Herds of elands are sometimes spotted, and even lions, albeit very seldom.

The Afro-Alpine Tier of Mount Kenya: A World of Unspoilt Beauty and Exceptional Adaptation

The Afro-Alpine tier of Mount Kenya, a starkly beautiful and isolated world, stretches between altitudes of 3,800 and 4,500 meters. Its unique geographical characteristics have facilitated the evolution of numerous endemic species, populating a landscape shaped by marked temperature variations and a dry and thin atmosphere.

This diverse terrain serves as the backdrop to a kaleidoscope of hardy plants; all adapted to withstand harsh environments. Fescue grasses dominate the scene, but a great variety of wildflowers, featuring more than a hundred species, burst into splendour all year round. Among these are everlastings, buttercups, Asteraceae, and Gladiolus crassifolius, an African gladiolus. The everlastings favour dry areas and produce white or pink flowers, while the yellow buttercups flourish in the moist regions.

However, the true stars of the Afro-Alpine floor are the giant groundsel, unique to the mountains of East Africa. The species Dendrosenecio keniodendron and Dendrosenecio keniensis proudly stand over ten metres tall. These plants, along with Lobelia deckenii subsp. keniensis, have adapted their tissues to allow for the freezing of water within their cells without causing damage.

Giant lobelia
Giant lobelia – © Mehmet Karatay, Wiki Commons

The fauna of the Afro-alpine zone is as diverse and unique as its flora. The Cape hyrax, the Otomys orestes, and the Grimm’s duiker are the most prevalent mammal species, each having evolved to occupy a distinct ecological niche. Other inhabitants include the omnivorous Lophuromys aquilus and the Tachyoryctes rex, which burrows and feeds on roots and tubers. Predators such as the leopard, the African-painted dog, the lion, and the red mongoose have been observed, but they generally only make occasional incursions into the Afro-alpine zone, preferring the lower regions for their rest periods.

The altitude does not deter a diverse population of birds from making the Afro-Alpine stage their home, with species of sunbirds, Afro-Alpine wheatears, starlings, wagtails, and birds of prey. The black kite, the bearded vulture, or Verreaux’s eagle are just a few of the feathered inhabitants of these high plateaus.

Despite the harshness of the climate, butterflies are present during the dry season. On the other hand, the high altitude is inhospitable for bees, wasps, fleas, and mosquitoes. Aquatic life is also represented by trout, introduced to the streams and small lakes. Moreover, the subalpine frog, alpine lizard, Hind viper, and Algyroides alleni are some of the reptiles and amphibians that reside at this high altitude.

In this landscape of rugged beauty, life has found a way to adapt and thrive, providing an unparalleled mountain experience for explorers in search of exceptional high-altitude scenery. The courageous visitors who journey to the Afro-Alpine tier of Mount Kenya are rewarded with the sight of this living tableau, a celebration of nature’s resilience in the face of extreme conditions.

The Nival Zone of Mount Kenya: A Sanctuary of Life in a Frigid and Delicate Landscape

The nival zone of Mount Kenya typically extends beyond 4,500 metres above sea level, constituting the area from which glaciers have recently retreated. This is a rugged and fragmented terrain, reflecting the disorganised flow of the once ubiquitous glaciers. Only two major glaciers remain; their significant retreat offers an opportunity to study this unique ecosystem.

This austere environment is the cradle of small plant colonies which, despite challenging conditions, have taken root in the land cleared by ice. They grow sheltered from the cold winds that blow from the glaciers and evolve at an extremely slow pace. The most common plants are grasses and thistles, such as Dipsacus pinnatifidus, and, more surprisingly, flowers, including Helichrysum brownei. The latter has been observed at the summit of Batian, one of the highest peaks of Mount Kenya.

The Lewis and Tyndall glaciers, sheltered from icy winds, provide favourable conditions for plant growth. The diminutive Senecio keniophytum flower is the first to colonise these regions, growing nestled amongst the rocks. This adaptive plant, equipped with long hairs to guard against the cold, is followed by mosses and lichens that find a suitable habitat on the moraines. These, by stabilising the soil, promote the subsequent establishment of other plant species.

The Mount Kenya hyrax dwells up to the lower limit of the snow line, typically below 4,700 metres altitude. Although lions and leopards have been spotted at that height, it is an exceptional occurrence.

The avifauna of the nival zone is equally astounding. The Johnston’s Sunbird (Nectarinia johnstoni) thrives even within the outskirts of this area, particularly where the Protea has taken root. The African Rock Pipit (Pinarochroa sordida) also makes its presence known. Above an elevation of 4,900 metres, the African White-bellied Swift (Tachymarptis melba africanus) finds its habitat. This resident bird lives in groups of over thirty individuals and feeds on insects caught along the water’s edge of rivers and lakes.

Thus, despite a seemingly harsh environment, the nival zone of Mount Kenya is home to an astonishing array of life, adapting and thriving as the glaciers retreat. It is a setting that showcases nature’s extraordinary ability to colonise the most unexpected and challenging terrains.

At the Heart of History: The Tales and Legends of Mount Kenya

Saga of Settlement: The Tribal Mosaic of Mount Kenya

The history of the tribes dwelling around Mount Kenya is rich and intricate, and it is only recently that this chronicle has been documented, signalling a substantial shift in the way traditions were conveyed, transitioning from a purely oral system to a written one with the involvement of Europeans.

The Gumba tribe, consisting of pygmy hunter-gatherers, is acknowledged as being the first to occupy Mount Kenya. Despite their significant initial presence, these early inhabitants eventually faded away, giving way to a diverse wave of immigration.

The first tribe to migrate to the foot of Mount Kenya were the pre-Kamba, the ancestors of today’s Wakamba. They arrived from the south before the close of the thirteenth century, heralding the start of a series of migrations that would transform the human landscape of this mountainous region.

At the dawn of the 14th century, the Tharaka and the pre-Chuka followed the migratory movement and settled in the region. The 15th century then witnessed the arrival of the pre-Kikuyu from the Mbéré region. These latter divided to form two distinct tribes: the Embu and the Kikuyu.

The last significant wave of migration occurred in the 1730s, with the arrival of the pre-Meru, who would subsequently be referred to as Ngaa. Originating from the Indian coast, they permanently settled in the region around the 1750s.

This is how Mount Kenya has seen a gradual and diverse settlement. Each tribe, with its own traditions and ways of life, has contributed to shaping the human history of this mountainous region, leaving an indelible mark on the cultural landscape of the surrounding area.

Mount Kenya: Unveiling and Conquest of an African Giant

On the African continent, Mount Kenya, with its snow-capped peaks and fertile valleys, is the second of the three major summits to be discovered by the Europeans, following Kilimanjaro and preceding Rwenzori. This discovery is credited to Dr Johann Ludwig Krapf, a German missionary who first sighted Mount Kenya on 3rd December 1849 from Kitui, a town situated 160 kilometres away from the mountain.

Johann Ludwig Krapf
Johann Ludwig Krapf

The stories of the Embu tribe, who reside near the mountains, describe a landscape struck by intense cold and a “white object” rolling down the slopes with a dull sound. These accounts, along with those of the Kikuyu mentioning a summit covered with a substance resembling white flour, enable Krapf to infer the existence of glaciers on the mountain. This hypothesis is bolstered by the observation that the rivers originating from Mount Kenya and other mountains in the region, unlike traditional rivers of East Africa, never dry up, suggesting a constant high-altitude water source.

Krapf’s discovery of Mount Kenya was initially met with scepticism in Europe, where the existence of snow on Kilimanjaro was still not acknowledged. To support his claims, Krapf compared the situation to the snow-capped peaks found at these latitudes in South America and pointed out that the presence of snow had also been confirmed in Cameroon and Abyssinia (present-day Ethiopia), regions very close to the equator.

It was only in 1883, thirty-four years after its discovery, that Scottish explorer Joseph Thomson confirmed the existence of Mount Kenya by passing near its western flank. Thomson, who compared its shape to that of Mawenzi at Kilimanjaro, deduced that it was likely the mouth of an extinct volcano.

The first substantial exploration of Mount Kenya was not undertaken until 1887 by the Hungarian Count Sámuel Teleki and the Austrian Ludwig von Höhnel. Despite difficulties and obstacles, they managed to reach an altitude of 4,350 metres on the southwestern slopes. During this expedition, they collected samples of alpine plants from Mount Kenya comparable to those from Kilimanjaro and rock samples, confirming the mountain’s volcanic origin.

Ludwig Von Höhnel
Ludwig Von Höhnel 1892

In 1893, an expedition led by the British geologist Dr John Walter Gregory, eventually reached the glaciers at an altitude of 4,730 metres. Gregory spent nearly two weeks studying the flora, fauna and geology of Mount Kenya, naming numerous elements to facilitate their description. Regrettably, the expedition was interrupted when the porters, suffering from the cold and altitude, deserted the base camp.

The end of the nineteenth century saw numerous further explorations facilitated by the completion of the railway to Nairobi. Thus, once inaccessible, Mount Kenya becomes a terrain of exploration and study, paving the way for major discoveries about the geology, biology and climate of this iconic African peak.

The first ascent

On the 28th of July, 1899, under a deep indigo sky, a diverse company sets off from Nairobi, heading towards Mount Kenya. Sir Halford John Mackinder’s team consists of six Europeans, including two high-mountain guides hailing from Courmayeur, within the Alps, 66 Swahili people, two Maasai guides and 96 Kikuyus.

However, even before reaching the initial slopes of the mountain, the expedition must overcome significant obstacles. The struggle to hire porters in Zanzibar, a smallpox epidemic in Mombasa and then in Nairobi, followed by a hasty departure ahead of mandatory quarantine, leaves the team poorly prepared for the awaiting adventure.

Sir Halford John Mackinder - First Ascent Mount Kenya
Sir Halford John Mackinder

After a three-week trek punctuated by rhinoceros charges, crossings of rivers infested with hippopotamuses, and encounters with local populations of varying degrees of hospitality, they finally arrive at the foot of Mount Kenya. However, at this point, their ability to procure food for the entire team is severely compromised by a recalcitrant local chief, forcing part of the team to set off in search of additional provisions.

Mackinder and his team, despite various challenges, continue their journey. After spending a day in the forest, thanks to the path carved out by Ollier and Brocherel, they arrive in the moorland and set up camp in the Höhnel Valley. This is where their first base camp is established, although their initial expedition to the peaks is nearly catastrophic due to an accidental fire, they ignite.

Their first attempt to ascend Nelion on 30th August concludes with a forced turn-around due to a breach they cannot cross. In the following days, various attempts at exploration and ascent are hampered by insurmountable obstacles and adverse weather conditions.

However, a glimmer of hope emerges on 5th September when the much-awaited rescue team finally arrives with provisions. Mackinder seizes this opportunity to initiate a new attempt to ascend. On 12th September, accompanied by Ollier and Brocherel, they scale the southeast face of Nelion, spend a freezing night near the Gendarme, and painstakingly traverse the Diamond Glacier before reaching the summit of Batian on 13th September at noon.

Despite the peril of afternoon storms, they spend forty minutes at the peak, surveying their surroundings and capturing their triumph with photographs. The return journey via the same route is hazardous but successful.

Before bidding farewell to this majestic mountain, they carry out a final circuit around the main peak zone. They spot Ithanguni, the eastern mountain, before returning to their base camp on 20th September, marking the end of their thirty-three days on Mount Kenya. The journey back to London is undertaken with enthusiasm, eager to share the story of their conquest with the world.

Timeline of the 20th and 21st Centuries

At the start of the 20th century, Mount Kenya, then a British Crown Colony since 1902, saw the establishment of the first major timber company on its northeast slope in 1912. The 1920s witnessed the emergence of plantations, set up to provide fast-growing plant species. Alongside forestry, Mount Kenya was attracting high-altitude enthusiasts. Various expeditions were launched, most of which were undertaken by Kenyan settlers and lacked any scientific aspect.

The Church of Scotland’s Mission in Chogoria plays a significant role in enabling numerous Scottish missionaries to attempt the ascent. New approach routes are plotted through the forest, considerably easing access to the peak region. Ernest Carr contributes to the construction of two shelters, Urumandi and Top Hut, further facilitating mountaineering.

In 1929, the Mountain Club of East Africa was established, marking a significant milestone in mountain exploration. The same year, the first successful ascent of Nelion was achieved by Percy Wyn-Harris and Eric Shipton, who also managed to climb Batian. The latter, accompanied by Bill Tilman, completed the first ascents of many other peaks in 1930.

During the 1930s, explorations took place across the moors surrounding Mount Kenya, well away from the peaks. The year 1932 signified the establishment of the Mount Kenya Forest Reserve. World War II saw a fresh wave of ascents, of which the most notable was achieved by three Italian prisoners of war, as recounted in “No Picnic on Mount Kenya”.

The Mount Kenya National Park was established in 1949, the same year a road was built from Naro Moru to improve access to the moorlands. In the early 1950s, Mount Kenya was the scene of the Mau Mau Uprising, a Kikuyu rebellion against the British Colonial Empire. The following years saw the creation of the Mount Kenya National Park Mountain Rescue Team in the early 1970s and Mount Kenya being designated a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve in 1978.

The buffer zone, established in 1980 between the forest and agricultural lands, plays a pivotal role in preventing farmers’ encroachment on the mountain. In 1982, the Forest Act was revised, prohibiting the use of the forest for any purpose. Fifteen years later, in 1997, Mount Kenya was finally classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The 21st century is marked by the tragedy of the 2003 air crash, where twelve passengers and two crew members lost their lives. However, the history of Mount Kenya is characterised not only by these dramatic events but also by the intrigue it has held for explorers, climbers and outdoor enthusiasts over the last two centuries.

Populations and Traditions

Surrounded by stunning landscapes, Mount Kenya is home to several tribes, including the Kikuyu, Embu, Maasai, and Wakamba. Each of these tribes holds a rich history and traditions that maintain a strong connection with the mountain, which holds profound cultural importance for each of them.

The Kikuyu, for instance, view Mount Kenya as the abode of their supreme deity, Ngai, deeply embedding the mountain within their spirituality and rituals. Similarly, the Embu, Masaï, and Wakamba also have stories and legends pertaining to the mountain, bearing testimony to their ancestral bond with this majestic peak.

In addition to its cultural and spiritual significance, Mount Kenya also represents a source of income for these communities. The flourishing tourist activity, drawn by the striking beauty and the sporting challenges the mountain offers, provides many employment opportunities. Some members of these tribes work as guides, utilising their in-depth knowledge of the terrain and weather conditions to help tourists navigate the mountain safely. Others act as porters, assisting in carrying the necessary equipment for expeditions. Still, others find employment as refuge wardens, hotel employees or within the authorities of the Mount Kenya National Park, thereby contributing to the preservation of the mountain whilst supporting the local tourism industry.

It is also worth mentioning a traditional practice dating back to a time when these communities utilised the mountain as a refuge to evade tax collectors. The relationship between the mountain and the local populations transcends mere economic aspects and unveils the significance of the mountain as a place of safety and sanctuary.

In essence, Mount Kenya is not just a spectacular peak for mountain and outdoor enthusiasts; it also serves as a living space for several tribes whose traditions and lifestyles are intimately connected to the mountain, making it a living tableau of Kenyan culture.

The Kikuyu

Nestled on the southern and eastern slopes of Mount Kenya, in the Kirinyaga district, reside the Kikuyu. This tribe, primarily agricultural, has expertly utilised the fertile lands imbued with volcanic ash from the lower slopes of the mountain, thereby producing diverse and plentiful crops.

The Kikuyu maintain a profound spiritual connection with the mountain, which they refer to as Kirinyaga or Kilinyaga, signifying “The White Mountain”. For them, Mount Kenya is the dwelling of their deity, Ngai. As a continual homage to this divine entity residing at the summit, Kikuyu homes are traditionally built with the door facing the mountain.

Kikuyu Woman in Traditional Attire
Kikuyu Woman in Traditional Attire – © Angela Sevin, Wiki Commons

The Kikuyu view Mount Kenya as a source of divine inspiration and wisdom. Kikuyu healers frequently undertake pilgrimages to the mountain in search of guidance for finding remedies and therapeutic solutions from Ngai. According to Kikuyu tradition, “When the earth was formed, a man named Mogai created a great mountain called Kere-Nyaga. A white powder known as Ira covered the summit, which was the bed for the god Ngai.”

The mountain also plays a pivotal role during significant tribal ceremonies. Weddings, initiation rites and other noteworthy Kikuyu social events typically take place with the mountain as a backdrop. The majestic presence of Kirinyaga provides a striking setting for these occasions, continuously reminding us of the presence and blessings of the god Ngai.

The Kikuyu exemplify how the local people of Mount Kenya have managed to integrate the mountainous environment into their spiritual beliefs and daily way of life, forging an inseparable bond between man and nature.

The Embu

Living on the southeast side of Mount Kenya, the Embu share similar beliefs and common architectural practices with the Kikuyu, linked with the god Ngai. The Embu term for Mount Kenya is “Kirenia,” translating to “the mountain of whiteness.”

Despite the commanding presence of the mountain in their daily environment, the Embu seldom venture to explore its heights. The low temperatures and rigorous conditions at higher altitudes pose a natural barrier for these tribes. However, this hasn’t deterred them from reaching as far as the Afro-Alpine region of the mountain.

In fact, it was while venturing into these altitudes that the Embu discovered a significant geographical fact about the mountain. They reported to Johann Ludwig Krapf, a European explorer, that the waters of Mount Kenya flow into a vast lake, which then feeds the Tana River. The descriptions given suggest that the only matching lakes would be Lake Michaelson and Lake Ellis, both located in the Afro-alpine zone. This knowledge transfer demonstrates that, despite their reluctance to venture into high altitudes, the Embu have a close and intimate relationship with Mount Kenya, its environment, and its resources.

The Maasai

Formerly residing on the north and north-western slopes of Mount Kenya, the Maasai saw their territory diminished by European intrusion. Acknowledged as a nomadic tribe, they used the vast northern regions of the mountain to graze their cattle. However, colonisation pushed them towards reserves further south.

Maasai - Mount Kenya
Maasai – © Wiki Commons

Mount Kenya holds a special place in the ancient beliefs of the Maasai people. According to them, their ancestors first appeared at the dawn of time, descending directly from the mountain. Their affection for this mountain is reflected in the names they give it: “Ol Donyo Eibor” and “Ol Donyo Egere”, which respectively mean “the white mountain” and “the speckled mountain”.

In 1899, when Halford John Mackinder made his first ascent of Mount Kenya, the mountain was regarded by the Maasai as an integral part of their territory. Mackinder believed that the name “Kenya” was a distortion of the Maasai word for “fog”. In tribute to this belief, he named the gap between Batian and Nelion, two peaks of Mount Kenya, as the “Gateway of the Fog”. A suggestive name, highlighting the profound connection between the Maasai and this majestic mountain.

The Wakamba

Situated in the shadow of Mount Kenya, the Wakamba attach symbolism to it, which is as rich as the varied landscape of its slopes. Two names, in particular, stand out: “Kima Ja Kegnia” and “Kiinyaa”, which translate respectively as ‘the mountain of whiteness’ and ‘the mountain of the ostrich’. This latter designation is a direct reference to the striking visual contrast of the peaks, where the eternal snow’s whiteness mixes with the rocks’ deep black, thus reminiscent of the distinctive plumage of the male ostrich.

Wakamba Village
Wakamba Village – © Alexander Leisser, Wiki Commons

Other names, such as “Njalo”, are also used by the Wakamba tribe to refer to the mountain. This term, meaning “gleaming”, shares a common root with “Kilima Njaro”, the name of the celebrated Kilimanjaro.

The explorer Johann Ludwig Krapf made the first documented observation of Mount Kenya from a Wakamba village, Kitui, in 1849. Today, it is widely accepted that the modern name “Kenya” originates from the Wakamba term “Kiinyaa”, thus highlighting the enduring influence of this culture on the naming of the entire country.

The other tribes

Ascending above the plains, Mount Kenya is encompassed by a mosaic of tribes, each adding its unique colour to the region’s cultural diversity canvas. The Meru tribe, inhabiting the northeastern slopes, believe that the mountain is the dwelling place of their deity, Ngai. They name the mountain “Kirimaara”, which translates as “the mountain that shines,” likely reflecting the spectacle of the snow-capped peaks glistening under the sun.

The Wakuafi, residing on the southern slope, also refer to Mount Kenya as “Orldoinio eibor”, which translates to “White Mountain”. Meanwhile, the Wadaicho, dwelling on the eastern slope within the forests, sustain a lifestyle centred on nature.

A bit further north, the Wasuk tribe once shared territory with the Maasai. On the western slope, near the base of Mount Kenya, live the Andorobbo, skilled hunters who track buffalo and elephants for sustenance and to sell ivory. They call the mountain “Doinyo Egeri”, which means “black mountain”, a nod to their unique perspective from a slope where rocks prevail and glaciers are less frequent.

Accustomed to exploring or even dwelling in the Afro-Alpine altitude, the Andorobbo nowadays rarely venture beyond the forest. The 1899 expedition of Halford John Mackinder encountered members of the Wanderobo tribe at an altitude of approximately 3,600 metres, testifying to their exceptional adaptability to this environment. Lastly, the Zanzibari name for Mount Kenya is “Meru”, another illustration of the richness of the names and traditions surrounding this giant of nature.

Embrace the Adventure: Activities and Experiences at Mount Kenya

Environmental Protection

The mountain that presides at the heart of Kenya has benefitted from a gradual roll-out of environmental protection throughout the 20th century. As early as 1932, the Mount Kenya Forest Reserve was established, highlighting the importance accorded to the preservation of this exceptional natural landscape. This initial initiative was strengthened in 1942 by the adoption of the Forest Act, aimed at protecting the forested surrounds of the massif.

In 1949, Mount Kenya National Park was established, encompassing the entire area situated above 3,400 metres in altitude and covering a surface of 620 km2. A road was even constructed from Naro Moru, easing access to the moors.

Recognised for its biological and geological richness, Mount Kenya was granted biosphere reserve status by UNESCO in 1978. In 1980, a buffer zone was established to prevent farmland encroachment on the forest, thereby extending the national park’s boundaries up to an altitude of 3,200 metres and expanding its area to 715 km2. This buffer zone was later transformed into tea plantations.

Mount Kenya National Park
Mount Kenya National Park – © Ingimar Erl, Wiki Commons

In 1982, the Forest Act was revised to prohibit all forestry operations, ensuring the preservation of the ecosystem. Furthermore, a nature reserve was established, extending the boundaries of the park across 705 km2.

In pursuit of global recognition, the site, which includes the park and nature reserve spanning a total area of 1,420 km2, was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997. The rationale for this classification emphasises the imposing landscape of East Africa, with its glacier-capped peaks, Afro-Alpine moorlands, and diverse forests, signifying exceptional ecological processes.

A major cleaning operation of rubbish took place in 1998, marking a renewed commitment to the protection of this natural site. Today, the park welcomes more than 15,000 visitors annually, a testament to the importance of tourism for both local and national economies.

The Kenyan government’s decision to designate the region as a national park is underpinned by four main principles: the significance of tourism, the preservation of the site’s natural beauty, biodiversity conservation, and the safeguarding of the area’s water sources for the surrounding regions. This holistic approach ensures the sustainability of this unique natural space.

From Hiking to Mountaineering: Conquering the Heights of Mount Kenya

Majestic Escapade: Exploring the Eight Hiking Routes of Mount Kenya

Mount Kenya, this giant with imposing peaks, offers hikers eight major routes winding towards its summits. These access paths, each unique in their own way, are named: Meru, Chogoria, Kamweti, Naro Moru, Burguret, Sirimon and Timau, to which is added the picturesque circuit of the peaks. Chogoria, Naro Moru and Sirimon stand out from the others due to their popularity. These routes are frequented by a large number of outdoor enthusiasts, making them the most marked routes with defined entry points. The other routes, offering a more wild and isolated experience, require special permission from the Kenya Wildlife Service, thus highlighting their preserved nature and the importance given to the protection of the mountain environment.

Sirimon Route

The journey along the Sirimon Route, acclaimed for its beauty and diversity, begins fifteen kilometres east of the Mount Kenya Ring Road from Nanyuki. The entrance point, nestled ten kilometres further on a footpath or by two-wheel drive vehicles, marks the start of a captivating adventure.

Sirimon Route, Mount Kenya
Sirimon Route – © Mara008, Wiki Commons

At the outset of this journey, walkers ascend through a dense forest. It is worth noting the absence of bamboo zones on this northern slope of Mount Kenya, a distinct feature that quickly gives way to moorlands dominated by gigantic heather. At the end of this trail, the Old Moses Hut serves as a stopover before the path continues its ascent to the top of the hill.

Here, the path splits into two routes. The left option, though less travelled, offers a scenic crossing along the side of Barrow up to the Liki North Hut. The vegetation here is more sparse, showcasing giant lobelias and senecios.

The trail then ascends along a ridge before joining the main path that rises through the Mackinder Valley. Just before reaching Shipton camp, one can discover Shipton cave, nestled within a rocky outcrop to the left of the escarpment.

From Shipton camp, there are several choices available to hikers. Some may choose to climb directly up the ridge facing the camp towards the old site of the Kami Hut, while others may prefer to follow the river course to Lower Simba Tarn and perhaps even to Simba pass. Each of these places is a stop on the famous circuit of peaks. This adventure takes you through landscapes of exceptional diversity and beauty that forever leave a mark on nature and mountain lovers.

Timau Route

With a somewhat unique nature, the course of the Timau Route presents itself as a limited yet emblematic pathway of the Kenyan mountain range. Beginning in the village of Timau, this journey is closely tied to that of the Sirimon Route. It stands out by circumventing the edge of the forest over a notable distance, thus providing a contrasting immersion into the mountainous ecosystem.

In the past, this path was utilised to travel by vehicle to the highest accessible point of Mount Kenya, thus demonstrating its ease of access compared to other routes. Nevertheless, the Timau Route bears the marks of time and has been neglected through the years, turning its practicability into a sweet memory for former visitors.

From the end of this ancient trail, the adventure is by no means over. In just a few hours’ walk, it is indeed possible to reach the Hall Tarns, a collection of high-altitude lakes with crystal-clear waters. From there, the path continues along the course of the Chogoria Route, leading straight to the circuit of peaks, the cherry on the cake of this exploration of Mount Kenya. Therefore, even if it is less used these days, the Timau Route still has its share of surprises and memorable experiences for those who dare to venture on its paths.

Meru Route

The Meru Route, less conventional, provides a unique experience to hikers. It commences from Katheri, located to the south of Meru, a starting point which stands out from other routes. Instead of aiming directly for the peaks, this route favours a more lateral exploration of Mount Kenya.

Indeed, the trail follows the Kathita Munyi River, a waterway that meanders through the majestic mountain landscape. This route offers a rich and diverse natural spectacle, where the calming sound of the flowing water accompanies walkers throughout their journey.

But the zenith of this route is not a lofty peak, rather, it’s an equally magical place: Rutundu Lake. Nestled in the shadow of towering summits, this crystal-clear lake offers a tranquil and serene scene, almost out of time.

The trails of the Meru Route also traverse the alpine moors that cloak the slopes of the mountain. These landscapes, steeped in a unique and resilient flora, provide a striking natural spectacle that marks the minds of hikers. In summary, the Meru Route, although it does not reach the peaks, promises an authentic and emotionally rich experience at the heart of the splendour of Mount Kenya.

Chogoria Route

The Chogoria Route, a breathtaking journey, begins in Chogoria and leads to the circuit of Mount Kenya’s summits. The initial section, a 32-kilometre trip from the forest entry point to the park, is typically covered by vehicle. Travellers may be astounded by an abundant wildlife population in the forest, with columns of Dorylus ants crossing the road, arboreal monkeys, and potentially even elephants, buffaloes, and leopards. The track, in poor condition, requires a certain degree of caution.

Chogoria Route
Chogoria Route – © Mehmet Karatay, Wiki Commons

As travellers approach the park, they are greeted by a bamboo area, with specimens growing up to twelve metres high. The path then winds its way through rosewood forests, where lichens dangle from the branches. At a certain point, the route divides into two trails: the smaller one leads towards Mugi Hill and runs along Ellis Lake.

At the end of the trail, a small bridge spans the Nithi stream, and after a few hundred metres, it opens up onto the Gates Waterfall. The path then reaches a ridge overlooking the Gorges Valley, offering a striking panorama of the peaks, Michaelson Lake, the Temple, and Delamere and Macmillan peaks at the other end of the valley. The Hall Tarns, small mountain lakes, are situated to the right of the path, above the Temple, a 300-metre high rock bar overlooking Michaelson Lake.

As the trail continues, it intersects the sources of the Nithi, where the slope suddenly turns steep. It ultimately splits into two, leading west to the Simba pass and southwest to the Square Tarn, both of which are part of the peak circuit.

Kamweti Route

The Kamweti route follows the course of the Nyamindi West River, thus providing a journey into the heart of the mountainous currents. However, this path is not without its challenges and mysteries. Access to it is indeed strictly regulated, adding a shroud of inaccessibility that could attract the most adventurous. Nevertheless, an aura of uncertainty surrounds this route. In fact, Kamweti is no longer mentioned in the official guide published by the Kenya Wildlife Service, calling its very existence into question.

Furthermore, no guarantee of practicality is provided for this trail, adding an additional layer of intrigue to this route. Thus, it presents a challenge for intrepid hikers, ready to discover less trodden and perhaps forgotten paths of Mount Kenya.

Naro Moru Route

The Naro Moru route, highly favoured by hikers eager to reach the Lenana peak, holds distinct appeal. Its ascent, achievable in just three days, along with the presence of dormitories at each camp, absolving hikers from bivouacking, contributes to its popularity. The path typically offers good terrain, with the exception of a section known as “the Vertical Bog”, which poses a particular challenge. Beginning its trajectory at Naro Moru, the route makes its way towards the park headquarters, following the ridge between the Northern and Southern Naro rivers.

Mount Kenya
Naro Moru Route – © Josski, Wiki Commons

At its end, a weather station – accessible by vehicle during the dry season – provides a particular point of interest. From there, the route descends into the Northern Naro Moru valley, down to the Mackinder camp, located on the peak circuit.

Burguret Route

The journey along the Burguret Route, despite being regulated, offers an unforgettable mountain experience. The journey commences in Gathiuru, a place tucked away within the shelter of massive mountains. The route largely follows the winding course of the North Burguret River, a constant companion whose tumultuous waves bring life to the journey. Progressing along the trail, immersing yourself within the region’s lush and rugged landscape, concludes at the Hut Tarn, a strategic point on the peak’s circuit. This journey, juxtaposing natural beauty and physical challenges, provides a true immersion into the beating heart of the mountain.

Peak Circuit Route

The Peak Circuit Path, with its length of roughly ten kilometres and a total elevation gain of over 2000 metres, is a demanding but incredibly rewarding experience. Winding around majestic peaks, this route offers breathtaking views and an unparalleled closeness to the mountain’s contours. While some intrepid walkers choose to complete it in a single day, most prefer to savour it across two or three days. Despite the physical challenge, the route does not require any technical climbing, making this wonder accessible to all duly prepared hikers. Furthermore, the Peak Circuit Path can also serve as a connecting route to join other trails, thus providing endless possibilities for discovering the hidden treasures of the mountain.

Mountaineering – Climbing Mount Kenya: Between Challenge and Wonder

Mount Kenya, the second tallest peak in Africa, standing at a height of 5,199m, has long been overshadowed by the popularity of Kilimanjaro. This mountain exhibits a distinctly different profile, sculpted by the erosion of an ancient volcano, revealing a series of peaks reminiscent of the Alps. It proudly bears a name derived from the Wakamba term meaning “Mountain of the Ostrich”, a reference to its contrasting colouration: effusive black rocks mingling with the white patches of glaciers and snow.

Scaling this peak, which was first conquered in 1899, presents an invigorating yet achievable challenge. The expedition typically lasts between three and four days, but can extend up to a week, depending on the chosen route. There are at least six paths, of which three are more popular, and the number of porters can vary.

Mount Kenya - Summit
© Bj Pearce, Unsplash

The standard route, known as Naro Moru, isn’t necessarily the most picturesque, but nonetheless affords breath-taking views. The initial 20 to 25 kilometres of the approach can be covered on foot or by 4×4 over tracks that often morph into rivers of mud, cutting through dense, humid forest. The scenery gradually transforms into bamboo forests, then bare, steep slopes, scattered with jagged volcanic rocks. Large endemic plant species, such as giant groundsel and swollen lobelias, contribute to the unique landscape.

Beyond Mackinder’s Camp, which one departs before dawn, the high mountain unfolds with sheer and vertical walls, peaks dotted with clouds, corridors, moraines where rock hyraxes live, and finally, the first snows. The glaciers, constantly melting, mostly resemble stumps. However, there is still enough ice and snow to make Mount Kenya the water tower of the country’s centre.

The ascent typically concludes at Lenana peak for novice climbers, peaking at 4,985 metres. Only experienced mountaineers dare venture to the Nelion (5,188 m) and Batian (5,199 m) peaks, additional challenges offered by this unique mountain.

The Shelters of Mount Kenya: A Haven of Comfort in a Demanding Environment

On the slopes of Mount Kenya, various shelters provide basic accommodation and comfort to hikers. These facilities, ranging from the most rudimentary to the most luxurious, are often overseen by on-site managers.

The most basic shelter, Liki North, offers little more than a roof to protect oneself from the elements. At the other end of the spectrum is the Meru Mt Kenya Lodge, offering more luxurious amenities such as a fireplace and running water, a striking contrast to the wild surroundings it is nestled in.

Most shelters on Mount Kenya, despite the lack of heating and lighting, are spacious, featuring dormitories and communal areas where hikers can rest and mingle. These shelters also offer separate lodgings for porters and guides, who play a crucial role in the hiking experience on Mount Kenya.

The common areas of the shelters are not solely reserved for residents. Campers can also utilise them for protection against inclement weather or for storing provisions out of reach from hyenas and Cape hyraxes, curious inhabitants of the mountain. These shelters play a vital role in providing a safe and comfortable space amidst the demanding and at times unpredictable nature of mountain hiking.

Austrian Hut / Top Hut – 4,790 metres

The Austrian Hut / Top Hut refuge, nestled at 4,790 metres on the Mount Kenya peak circuit, sets itself apart with its altitude. It is the second highest refuge on the mountain, surpassed only by the Howell Hut perched atop Nelion. The refuge serves as a strategic starting point for numerous adventures, from ascents of Lenana to the Thomson, Melhuish, and John peaks. For those choosing to embark on exploring the Nelion Normal Route, a stay at the Austrian Hut / Top Hut refuge is a must.

Austrian Hut, Mount Kenya
Austrian Hut – © Mehmet Karatay, Wiki Commons

The surrounding landscape of the refuge is remarkably austere yet possesses a peculiar beauty. The ridge where the refuge is located is dotted with lava formations that sketch fantastical silhouettes onto the scenery. Despite the extreme environment limiting fauna – with neither mammals nor birds surviving at this altitude – certain small flowers manage to surprisingly grow amidst these conditions. The ridge is covered with scree that freeze every night and bake in the day, adding to the rusticity of the environment. The Austrian Hut / Top Hut refuge is truly a restful oasis in a landscape shaped by extreme forces.

Two Tarn Hut – 4,490 metres

Nestled along the circuit of Mount Kenya’s peaks, lies the Two Tarn Hut, a refuge situated at an altitude of 4,490 metres. Much like a rare gem, it is located in an austere yet awe-inspiring mountainous environment, providing necessary shelter for hikers and climbers embarking on this picturesque trail.

Meru Mt Kenya Lodge – 3,017 m

Perched at an altitude of 3,017 metres, on the edge of Mount Kenya National Park, Meru Mt Kenya Lodge unfurls its charm on the Chogoria route. Home to several log cabins, this private lodge stands out for its warm and rustic character. Each cabin provides comfortable accommodation, with a bedroom, a kitchen, a bathroom and a living room adorned with a fireplace, thereby creating a cosy atmosphere for weary visitors after a day of hiking.

The carefully considered interior layout can accommodate three to four individuals in each cabin. Luxury is not in short supply within these mountain retreats, where hot running water is a blessing after a long day’s trek in the coolness of the heights. Approximately 500 metres from the park entrance, the lodge requires the payment of national park entrance fees.

The Meru Mt Kenya Lodge, with its log cabins and breathtaking views of the surrounding landscape, provides a true haven of comfort and tranquillity in the wild hinterland of Mount Kenya. This is an ultimate destination for adventure and outdoor enthusiasts who wish to immerse themselves in the stunning beauty of this part of the world, whilst enjoying the conveniences of civilization.

Urumandi Hut – 3,063 metres

At the heart of Mount Kenya, along the Chogoria trail, stands a relic of the past: the Urumandi Hut. Constructed in 1923, this historical refuge bears the marks of almost a century of mountaineering history in Kenya. Its structure, now neglected, appears to blend into the mountainous landscape, a silent witness to the evolution of hiking practices and routes.

Despite its current disuse, the refuge once served as a shelter and rest point for intrepid hikers navigating the Chogoria route. Today, even though it no longer provides respite for weary hikers, its existence remains a tangible relic of the history of mountaineering in this region. The Urumandi Hut, with its solitary silhouette against the mountain’s grandeur, stands as a symbol of the passage of time and the evolution of outdoor adventures on Mount Kenya.

Minto’s Hut – 14,075 ft

Perched at a formidable altitude of 4290 meters and nestled near to the Hall Tarns on the Chogoria route, Minto’s Hut provides sanctuary for eight individuals, typically porters. Nearby, there is a camping area for those who prefer to sleep under the starlit sky.

Minto's Hut, Mount Kenya
Minto’s Hut – © Franco Pecchio, Wiki Commons

Water, a vital resource at this altitude, is directly drawn from adjacent mountain lakes. However, due to the lack of an outlet, it stagnates and must be carefully filtered or boiled before consumption.

Warden’s Cottage – 2,400 m

The Warden’s Cottage, once the residence of the park’s veteran wardens until 1998, takes pride of place on the Naro Moru route. Within this charming retreat, one will discover two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchen and a living room equipped with a veranda and a fireplace. Running hot water is a welcome luxury in this rustic setting. Due to its location within the park, payment of taxes is required.

The Weather Station – 3,050 m

Under the management of the Naro Moru Lodge, the weather station provides a number of dormitories for tired travellers, as well as a camping area for those wishing to be closer to nature.

Mackinder’s Camp – 4,200 metres

Mackinder’s Camp, another retreat managed by Naro Moru Lodge, offers a substantial dormitory and abundant camping space, thus providing a plethora of options for mountain explorers.

Mount Kenya - Mackinder's Camp
Mackinder’s Camp – © Thad K., Wiki Commons
Liki North Hut – 3,993m

Located on the Sirimon Route, the Liki North Hut offers a refuge providing shelter against inclement weather. Able to accommodate eight people and encompassed by a camping area, the hut is conveniently set close to a river for water supply. It can also serve as a starting point for ascending Terere and Sendeyo, or as a stopover on the route to Shipton’s Camp.

Sirimon Bandas – 2,650 m

The Sirimon Bandas, a collection of retreats nestled within Mount Kenya National Park, provide a genuine taste of African wildlife. The bandas comprise two bedrooms, a kitchen, a dining room, a bathroom, and a veranda. Park entrance fees apply here too. A nearby camping area also boasts running water.

Old Moses Camp – 3,400 m

The Old Moses Camp, a campsite on the Sirimon route, is another shelter run by the Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge. Equipped with dormitories, a vast camping area, and accommodation for guides and porters, the camp is a welcome stop for travellers on this route.

Shipton’s Camp – 4,236 metres

Shipton’s Camp, another encampment on the Sirimon route, is a natural marvel not to be missed. Managed by the Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge, this camp is home to a diverse range of wildlife, including numerous rock hyraxes, striped grass mice and various species of sunbirds and wheatear.

Howell Hut – 4,236 metres

The Howell Hut, a sanctuary located at the summit of Nelion, serves as a testament to Ian Howell’s tenacity. Constructed in February 1970, this haven was built atop Lewis Glacier – an achievement made possible by thirteen solo ascents conducted by Howell himself.

Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge

The Mountain Rock Bantu Lodge, located north of Naro Moru, provides a range of accommodation options, from rooms to tents and camping spaces. They also manage the Old Moses Camp and Shipton’s Camp along the Sirimon route.

Naro Moru River Lodge

The Naro Moru River Lodge provides a range of services for adventurers and nature enthusiasts. Located near Naro Moru, the lodge offers bird watching, equipment hire, and the arrangement of guided ascents.

Serena Mountain Lodge – 2,200 metres

For those in pursuit of luxury amidst the wilderness, Serena Mountain Lodge is the perfect place. Nestled on the western slopes of the mountain, this luxurious hotel boasts its own water source and offers guided hikes, trout fishing, and lectures.

Naro Moru Youth Hostel

The Naro Moru Youth Hostel provides a welcoming environment for young travellers, comprised of a renovated farm situated between Naro Moru and its entrance point. It offers dormitories, a camping area, kitchen facilities, and equipment hire.

Castle Forest Lodge – 2,100 m

Constructed by the British in the late 1920s as a sanctuary for the royal family, the Castle Forest Lodge is a genuine historical treasure. It is situated on the southern slope, within the forest.

Rutundu Log Cabins – 3,100 m

For a truly unique mountainous experience, Rutundu Log Cabins offer a luxurious retreat on the northern mountainside.

Mount Kenya, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site

The imposing Mount Kenya, nestled on the equator about 193 km northeast of Nairobi and approximately 480 km from the Kenyan coastline, is an unmatched natural wonder. As the second highest peak in Africa reaching an altitude of 5,199 m, this relic of a former extinct volcano majestically dominates the African landscape. Despite the rapid regression of the twelve glaciers still dotting its summits, Mount Kenya remains a breathtaking spectacle, with four secondary peaks emerging from U-shaped glacial valleys. Its rugged, glacier-crowned peaks and moderately wooded slopes offer some of the most impressive scenery in East Africa. Furthermore, the evolution and ecology of its afro-alpine flora is a remarkable example of ecological processes.

UNESCO has designated Mount Kenya as a World Heritage site, an international acknowledgement of its cultural and natural worth. The site includes the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve (CFL-RFNN) in the north. These two aspects of the site are linked by a wildlife corridor, which also serves as a buffer zone and ensures vital connectivity for elephants moving between Mount Kenya and the extensive Somali/Maasai ecosystem conservation complex.

The CFL-RFNN extension encompasses the wooded foothills and deep valleys of the lower slopes of Mount Kenya, extending northward to the relatively flat arid volcanic soils of the Laikipia plains. Here, the meadows and open wooded communities provide a striking contrast to the mountainous landscape of Mount Kenya. This mix of ecosystems contributes to the region’s outstanding biological diversity, a key element in its designation by UNESCO.

Criterion (vii) – Mount Kenya: Geology, Spectacular Landscapes, and Cultural Significance

Boasting a height of 5,199m, Mount Kenya, the second highest peak in Africa, is the remains of an extinct volcano that is believed to have reached 6,500m during its active period 3.1 to 2.6 million years ago. Evidence of this tumultuous time can be seen in the dramatic landscapes, deeply carved by valleys radiating from the peaks, predominantly resulting from glacial erosion.

Furthermore, the mountain is home to approximately 20 small glacial lakes of varying sizes, alongside numerous glacial moraine features between elevations of 3,950m and 4,800m. The tallest peaks are Batian (5,199m) and Nelion (5,188m), whilst four secondary summits stand at the heads of U-shaped glacial valleys. Even though only a dozen glaciers remain on the mountain, all rapidly retreating, their presence undoubtedly adds a charming allure to the landscape.

Mount Kenya
Mount Kenya – © Wiki Commons

Mount Kenya stands out for the beauty of its rugged landscapes, crowned with glaciers, and its wooded middle slopes, making it one of the most impressive landscapes in East Africa. The visual contrast and variety of landscapes created between the Kenyan highlands and Mount Kenya, towering over the flat, arid savannah and sparsely wooded plains that make up the extension of the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy to the north, further enhance the scene.

Furthermore, Mount Kenya holds a cultural significance for the local communities. Among the Kikuyu and Meru tribes residing in the region, Mount Kenya is regarded as a sacred mountain. According to their beliefs, the God Ngai and his wife Mumbi dwell at the mountain’s peak. This sacred value imparts a spiritual dimension to the natural beauty of Mount Kenya, emphasising its distinguished importance in aesthetic and cultural terms.

Criterion (ix) – Exceptional ecological and faunal diversity of Mount Kenya and the surrounding regions

The ecology and evolution of the Afro-alpine flora on Mount Kenya wonderfully epitomise the ecological processes that take place in such environments. The vegetation varies according to altitude and rainfall, with a rich alpine and sub-alpine flora prevalent in the region. In the driest low-altitude regions (below 2,500 m), the species Juniperus procera and Podocarpus are dominant. On the other hand, in the more humid areas of the southwest and northeast, the Cassipourea malosana prevails. The high-altitude zones (2,500-3,000 m) are mainly inhabited by bamboo and Podocarpus milanjianus. Above 3,000 m, the alpine zone offers a diversity of ecosystems, including grassy clearings, moors, tussack meadows, and carex. Although vegetation becomes sparse beyond 4,500 m, isolated vascular plants can be observed at heights exceeding 5,000 m.

The fauna is equally varied, with species such as the hylochoerus, tree hyrax, white-tailed mongoose, elephant, black rhinoceros, suni, black-fronted duiker and leopard found in the low altitude forest and bamboo zone. In the moorlands, one can find the Mount Kenya mole shrew, the hyrax, and the common duiker. The endemic mole rat is common on all northern slopes and in the Hinder valley, up to 4,000m.

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve enhance the species diversity of the region, particularly by hosting the largest resident population of Grevy’s zebras in the world. Birds are also very diverse here, including the olive ibis (a local breed from Mount Kenya), Ayres’s hawk, the Abyssinian owl, the scaly francolin, Rüppell’s robin-chat, numerous sunbirds (Nectariniidae), the locally threatened Shoa swift, and the near endemic white-bellied swift.

The Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve contribute to the property with picturesque foothills of low altitude and arid habitats that are rich and diversified from a biological perspective. These regions represent the ecological transition zone between the Afro-tropical mountain ecosystem and the semi-arid savannah grasslands of East Africa. Located on the traditional migration route of the elephant populations of the Mount Kenya – Somali/Maasai ecosystem, these spaces have always been areas where elephants come to feed in the dry season, thus adding another dimension to the incredible biodiversity of the region.

Preservation of Ecological Integrity and Challenges in the Face of Climate Change at the World Heritage Site in Kenya

The integrity of this heritage site is partly vested in its complex structure. The serial site comprises the Mount Kenya National Park, managed by the Kenya Wildlife Service (KWS), as well as select sections of the Mount Kenya Forest Reserve, overseen by the Kenya Forest Service (KFS). These two protected regions are meticulously designed to safeguard key natural values and the mountain watershed from 2000 to 2500 metres. Further north, the site is connected through a 9.8km elephant corridor to the Lewa Wildlife Conservancy and the Ngare Ndare Forest Reserve, introducing drier plains ecosystems and habitats along with an array of additional species. Though this corridor is located in the buffer zone, its role in maintaining the ecological connectivity between the two site elements is crucial.

Despite various threats impacting the site, the populations of wild animals, even though they have decreased since the site’s original inclusion on the World Heritage List, remain in good health. Within the main area of Mount Kenya, the site is confined to the upper part of the mountain, above the mountain forest, meaning the majority of forest destruction, illegal grazing, poaching, and other human activities are affecting the ecosystem beyond the site’s boundaries, within the national reserve/forest that serves as a “buffer zone”. It is imperative to understand and mitigate these threats as they impact the site’s long-term viability.

Climate change likely poses one of the most significant long-term threats to the site. The glaciers are rapidly melting and could vanish entirely within a few decades. With global warming, vegetation areas could shift upwards on the mountain, with, for instance, the lower zones of the bamboo forest possibly being gradually replaced by a mixed mountain forest.

It is crucial to mitigate the threat of climate change through enhanced connectivity and maintain the continuity of natural habitats across the entire altitude range to ensure ecosystem resilience and promote their adaptation to inevitable changes. The CFL-RFNN extension, by establishing the corridor and regional links through several conservatories to connect the Samburu National Park, Shaba National Reserve, and Buffalo Springs to the north, and even Matthew’s Range, represents a significant proactive action to alleviate the impacts of climate change on this East Africa region’s biodiversity by ensuring mobility to allow biodiversity to adapt to temperature variations and rainfall.

Strategies and Management Measures for Biodiversity Protection in Kenya

The protection framework of the site relies on a solid and effective legislative arsenal, composed of several key laws, including the Wildlife Act, the Environment Management and Coordination Act (1999), the Water Act (2002), and the Forest Act (2005). Through the KWS, the Kenyan government encourages owners of large territories, notably local communities, to establish wildlife conservatories as a long-term strategy to increase the space dedicated to conservation and biodiversity management. The CFL, intended for the conservation of biological diversity, thus complies with national legal obligations and justifies its registration as a conservatory. Furthermore, the national land policy of the Ministry of Land Planning supports the establishment of corridors for biodiversity conservation.

Three institutions, namely the KWS, the KFS, and the Lewa Wildlife Conservatory managed by a board of directors, collaborate closely for the management of the site. Both KWS and KFS are signatories of the Mount Kenya Ecosystem Management Plan, which provides a comprehensive framework for management planning. It is vital that the different management plans applicable to the site’s elements are synchronised in terms of approaches and management timelines.

A shift towards more sustainable management of various forest sectors is supported by the establishment of Community Forestry Associations (CFA), the production of operational forest management plans, and the signing of related agreements between the KFS and the CFA.

The damage caused to crops by wild animals that infiltrate fields along the boundaries of the Mount Kenya National Park/Natural Forest is a significant problem. Efforts have been made to mitigate these conflicts, particularly by erecting fences and other barriers to prevent animals from leaving the reserve, with mixed results. However, experience has shown that an effective and well-designed fence is likely the best solution to alleviate conflicts between humans and wildlife in such densely populated regions.

The threats posed by the proliferation of commercial tree plantations and crops, as well as habitat destruction, have receded due to long-term efforts. The governmental policy of ceasing to clear natural forests to make way for plantations has greatly reduced the threat of plantation and associated crop expansion in the buffer zone adjacent to the site.

The threats from illegal timber harvesting, grazing, poaching, and tourism are being managed and appear to be stable, despite persistent issues. Ongoing monitoring and effective management will be necessary. Fires are a major threat, particularly in the high-altitude moorlands of the World Heritage site. A strategic firefighting plan for the Mount Kenya hotspot has been developed to guide future fire preparedness in the ecosystem.

The preservation of the elephant corridor, spanning 9.8 km, which connects Mount Kenya to the plains of the CFL-RFNN, is of critical importance. This corridor promotes the mobility of wild species, provides a link between the two parts of the site and serves as a buffer against the effects of climate change. It will also be significant to explore other possibilities of creating connectivity within the larger ecosystem complex to enhance the ecological viability of the site.

Is Rayon a Breathable Fabric?

June 28, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Venturing into the wilderness requires more than just the spirit of adventure; it calls for the right gear, including apparel crafted from suitable fabric. Amid the diverse spectrum of materials, rayon fabric frequently piques the interest of many. The question often at the forefront of the discussion is regarding its breathability, particularly when it comes to sartorial choices for the balmy months of summer.

A naturally breathable fabric, rayon presents itself as a plausible choice for summer attire. However, the trait of breathability cannot be guaranteed for every piece of clothing fashioned out of rayon. This is largely due to an array of factors that can alter the final breathability quotient of the fabric, transcending its basic fiber composition.

This comprehensive guide endeavors to illuminate the intricacies that can potentially transform rayon fiber into breathable fabric. Furthermore, it delves into the elements that might erode the breathability of the final fabric. On navigating through this article, readers shall find themselves well-versed in the realm of rayon fabrics, capable of proficiently assessing their breathability to satisfy their particular requirements, be it for a climb up the highest peak or a serene trek in the valley.

Rayon
Rayon – © Luca Laurence, Unsplash

Understanding Rayon Breathability: Key Features and Measurements in Fabrics

Within the domain of fabrics and textiles, breathability signifies a material’s capacity to permit the passage of air and moisture. This trait contributes to the comfort of the wearer, enabling evaporative cooling as perspiration seeps through the fabric and evaporates, thus producing a cooling effect.

The breathability of fabrics is not an abstract concept but a quantifiable attribute, determined by textile engineers through a set of standard testing procedures. These tests measure aspects such as a fabric’s air permeability and moisture transfer rate, thus providing a detailed comparison of the breathability among different materials.

An often-observed feature of some breathable fabrics is their heightened ability to absorb moisture. This property, generally represented as a percentage and referred to as “moisture regain,” can be precisely measured by textile engineers. Yet, it’s vital to highlight that breathability doesn’t obligatorily depend on the capacity to absorb moisture or exhibit wicking capabilities. While it is possible for a fabric to possess both traits to varying extents, these are not defining factors for breathability.

For those desiring a deeper understanding, the article “What is the most breathable fabric?” offers a meticulous examination of moisture-wicking fabrics. This recommended read will furnish readers with a broader comprehension of this captivating topic, aptly dovetailing with the nuanced discussion of breathability in fabrics.

Factors that Determine its Suitability for Summer Wear

Rayon
Rayon – © Prince Abid, Unsplash

Various factors influence the rayon effect of breathable fabric, a few of which are highlighted here:

Firstly, the chemical composition of rayon fibre significantly contributes to its breathability. Derived from natural raw materials like bamboo, wood chips, or wood pulp, the resultant rayon fibre undergoes chemical processing that naturally enhances its breathability.

Furthermore, the intended use of the finished fabric influences its breathability. Manufacturers’ choices during each phase of the production process can either augment or diminish the breathability of the fibre. The final purpose of the fabric largely determines these choices. While rayon has numerous industrial applications beyond apparel fabric, including upholstery fabric, tire components, and furniture stuffing, breathable isn’t a crucial requirement for these uses.

Contrasting rayon apparel fabric and rayon upholstery fabric underscores this point. Manufacturers of apparel fabrics generally prioritize breathability when making design decisions, unlike upholstery manufacturers. Breathability isn’t a vital characteristic of rayon upholstery fabrics.

This information is pivotal when choosing rayon breathable fabric for a summer garment. The original purpose of the fabric should be taken into account. A lightweight construction alongside other apparel fabrics indicates that the rayon fabric will be breathable and wearable. On the contrary, if you come across a rayon fabric alongside upholstery fabrics, it would be prudent to assume that its breathability may not meet the desired requirements.

Primary Uses of Rayon

Activewear

One primary application of rayon fabric lies in the production of activewear. Its versatility lends itself well to the manufacture of t-shirts, tank tops, hoodies, shorts, and tunics. Typically, clothing manufacturers opt to blend rayon with fibres like polyester, nylon, elastane, or spandex. This combination facilitates maximal stretch and functionality, thereby enhancing the overall performance of the activewear.

Blouses and Sundresses

Fashion enthusiasts particularly favour rayon for creating summer blouses and sundresses due to its soft breathability and excellent drapability. Designers can make these garments from either 100 per cent rayon or blends, offering flexibility in design and texture while ensuring the wearer’s comfort during the warm season.

Socks

Soft, luxurious socks made from rayon can provide an exceptional feel on one’s feet. For the best experience, it’s recommended to opt for rayon socks blended with nylon and spandex. The inclusion of nylon enhances the strength and durability of the socks, while spandex introduces a stretch capacity, enabling the socks to adapt to the shape of the wearer’s feet and maintain their form effectively.

Bed Sheets

Rayon also finds application in the bedding industry, particularly in the production of bed sheets. These sheets are often silky, soft, and luxurious, providing a comfortable sleeping experience. Despite their premium feel, rayon sheets tend to be surprisingly affordable. Additionally, their moisture-absorbent properties contribute to comfortable sleep, particularly during the hottest summer months.

Is Rayon Good for Summer?

Rayon
Rayon – © Hermes Rivera, Unsplash

Breathable fabrics derived from natural fibres can adapt to body temperature, aiding in maintaining coolness during warm weather. It is advisable to opt for plant-based and moisture-wicking fibres, which promote sweat evaporation rather than absorption. Herein, some of the optimal fabrics for hot weather are discussed.

Linen

Linen, constructed from flax fibres, stands as an excellent choice for garments intended for hot weather. Known for its natural antibacterial and stain-repellent properties, linen remains clean even after being washed at low temperatures. Its low absorbency, quick-drying properties, and airy feel make it a timeless summer fabric.

Silk

Silk’s natural, protein-based fibres make it a luxurious and cool option for a summer dress. This lustrous, durable fibre, produced by silkworms, is renowned worldwide for its beauty and strength. Silk effectively wicks moisture away, providing a cool and airy feel instead of clinging to the body like synthetic materials. However, its delicate nature necessitates special care routines.

Seersucker

Seersucker, a type of cotton fabric, is renowned for its cooling properties during hot days. Its unique weaving process creates a puckered surface that allows additional airflow, making it a timeless and increasingly popular summer fabric.

Lyocell

Lyocell, also known as Tencel, is a semi-synthetic variant of viscose created from cellulose fibres. It shares similar qualities with cotton or silk, thus serving as a suitable substitute. Although not a traditional natural fabric, lyocell remains breathable and comfortable for summer wear.

Hemp

Hemp, similar to linen, is often blended with cotton to produce a comfortable fabric. Like linen, hemp feels cool and can absorb and hold liquids without feeling damp. Derived from the stalk fibres of the Cannabis Sativa plant, hemp combines the warmth and softness of a natural textile with unmatched durability.

Cotton

Another natural textile highly favoured for hot weather wear is cotton, made from the fluffy fibres of the cotton plant. Its high liquid retention capacity facilitates slow evaporation, thus cooling the garment. Lighter, thinner cotton fabric is preferable over its thicker, darker counterparts. It is recommended to seek out garments constructed from 100% cotton for maximum comfort.

Viscose

One variation of rayon that deserves special mention is viscose, renowned for its breathability. The exceptional breathability of viscose emanates from its ultra-thin fibres, allowing for a cool and breezy fit. Nevertheless, the delicateness of these fibres necessitates extra care during washing, making them slightly more high maintenance than other breathable fabrics. Despite this, the allure of the visually stunning viscose garments cannot be denied and makes them a compelling option for those seeking comfort and style.

Bamboo

Turning attention towards more natural fabrics, bamboo is another material worth considering. Its inherent cooling properties make it an increasingly popular choice for bed linens. However, the fabric’s coolness when compared to traditional cotton, has been a subject of debate among shoppers. The consensus seems to sway towards cotton, which continues to hold its position as the champion of coolness.

Jersey

Jersey fabric, frequently used in creating beloved summer dresses and sportswear, holds a notable spot in the list of breathable fabrics. It’s typically made from pure cotton or a blend of cotton and polyester. Although it can be slightly heavier than its cotton counterpart, the fabric still retains a substantial degree of breathability, making it a favoured choice for both casual and athletic wear.

Chambray

Chambray fabric, often mistaken for denim due to its similar appearance, is an ultra-lightweight cotton variant. Many believe that rayon’s breathability rivals that of linen, another well-regarded breathable fabric, offering a stylish and comfortable alternative for those who wish to deviate from the common options of linen and cotton.

Rayon

Lastly, rayon, a fabric from plant-derived fibres, is another noteworthy entrant in the list of breathable materials. People recognize the man-made fabric for its cool, breezy appeal, thanks to its ultra-thin properties. It’s no surprise, then, that fashion designers craft many summer dresses and light apparel from this fabric, underscoring its popularity during the warmer months.

Fabrics to avoid in hot weather

In the context of hot and humid weather, it is generally advisable to steer clear of synthetic fabrics such as polyester, acrylic, and nylon. These materials have a proclivity to retain odours and bacteria due to their inherent inability to facilitate breathability. Garments crafted from these synthetic materials can entrap heat, creating an unpleasant sensation of warmth. Moreover, single-wear can leave these garments reeking of sweat. Hence, for comfort in hot and humid conditions, it is preferable to avoid such materials.

Considerations Around Rayon’s Breathability

Is Rayon More Breathable Than Polyester?

When considering raw fibres, unfinished rayon exhibits superior breathability compared to unfinished polyester. This is due to its significantly higher capacity for moisture regain. Rayon boasts an 11-per cent moisture regain capacity, thereby absorbing moisture more effectively than polyester, which has a mere 0.4 per cent moisture regain capacity in its unfinished state.

However, the breathability of finished polyester fabrics can be considerably enhanced. Manufacturers employ moisture-managing finishing processes that bolster polyester’s moisture regain capacity. Furthermore, they can design highly air-permeable polyester fabrics by opting for fabric structures that promote airflow.

Despite these enhancements, finished rayon fabrics may not wick moisture from the body as effectively as high-performance polyester fabrics. To delve deeper into the comparison of rayon and polyester, the article “Polyester vs Rayon” provides comprehensive insights.

Is Rayon More Breathable Than Cotton?

When it comes to breathability, the moisture regain a percentage of fabric comes into play. This measures how readily a fabric absorbs moisture. With a moisture regain of 11 per cent, rayon outperforms cotton, which stands at 8.5 per cent. Rayon also releases the absorbed moisture into the air more efficiently than cotton, suggesting that rayon fabrics could offer a higher breathable effect than cotton counterparts.

However, this does not imply a blanket superiority of rayon over cotton in breathability. A fabric’s breathability is a complex interplay of multiple factors beyond just fibre content. The thickness and structure of the fabric, along with post-production finishes, significantly impact a fabric’s air permeability and drying rate.

For instance, lightweight fabrics, whether made from rayon or cotton, will likely offer enhanced breathability. Conversely, a densely woven, heavy fabric, irrespective of its cotton or rayon composition, may not breathe as well. Therefore, the fabric’s thickness becomes a crucial determinant in its drying speed post-perspiration exposure.

It is not uncommon to find featherweight rayon fabrics that exhibit superior breathability compared to thick cotton ones and vice versa. Ultimately, both rayon and cotton fabrics, when appropriately designed and processed, can serve as apt materials for summer clothing. The key lies in selecting a rayon fabric specifically intended for summer apparel to ensure the desired level of breathability.

Does Bamboo Rayon Offer Breathability?

Indeed, bamboo rayon does exhibit a breathable effect. During the summer, bamboo rayon bedding can offer a cooler experience than many other types. Conversely, in the winter, this fabric tends to provide more warmth than other bedding options. This dual capability is a unique attribute of bamboo when processed into fabric.

Various types of bamboo sheets, such as bamboo rayon, bamboo modal, bamboo linen, bamboo cotton, and bamboo lyocell, are known for their breathability.

Each variant possesses its unique qualities, but they generally share common attributes. Most bamboo fabrics are hypoallergenic, lightweight, and soft, although bamboo linen can be somewhat coarse.

Among these, bamboo lyocell stands out as possibly the softest and most appealing variant of this rayon form, contributing to the growing popularity of bamboo fabrics.

FAQs – Frequently Asked Questions about Rayon

Rayon – © ActionVance, Unsplash

Does Rayon Have the Ability to Wick and Absorb Moisture?

Wicking capability and moisture absorption are two distinct properties of fabrics, often confused but critically different. While some fabrics specialize in moisture-wicking, redirecting moisture to the fabric’s surface for evaporation, others excel at absorption, holding onto the moisture. Rayon, a highly absorbent fabric, sits in the middle of this spectrum with moderate wicking capacity. Surpassing cotton in terms of both absorbency and moisture wicking, rayon mirrors cotton’s behaviour to an extent.

Like cotton, rayon is proficient at absorbing sweat from the skin. However, both materials do not perform as efficiently as high-performance synthetics in transporting moisture away from the skin. Nonetheless, rayon holds an edge in cooling effectiveness over wicking synthetics by retaining more moisture and, thus, prolonging the evaporative cooling process.

Is Rayon Suitable for Winter Wear?

When retaining body heat in cold weather, rayon fabrics might not be the ideal choice. In sub-zero temperatures, people typically favour warmer fibres over rayon. For example, designers do not create rayon sundresses to be winter-friendly, which means most rayon clothing is unsuitable for colder climates during the winter season.

However, certain scenarios exist where rayon clothing can serve as a viable winter wear option. Layering pieces such as rayon t-shirts or long-sleeved turtlenecks can prove effective when worn underneath heavy winter sweaters. Workwear such as wool suits with rayon linings may also be suitable for winter. Some sweaters, particularly those knitted from rayon chenille yarn, can offer warmth and style during the colder months.

Moreover, manufacturers sometimes utilize rayon in crafting winter outerwear. Items like thick winter scarves woven from rayon chenille yarn or rayon jackets, coats, vests, and capes can be popular winter garments. However, these pieces are generally more suitable for regions where winter is chilly but not extremely cold, with temperatures remaining above freezing.

Does Rayon Offer Water Resistance?

Contrary to some expectations, rayon does not possess water-resistance capabilities. In fact, it is a fabric known for its high moisture absorbency, considerably more so than polyester, a fabric notable for its water resistance. This indicates that on rainy days, wearing polyester might be a more pragmatic choice than donning rayon garments.

Interestingly, rayon significantly loses its strength when wet, making it advisable to wear this material on hot days where the chance of rain is minimal. Rayon’s absorbency allows it to manage moisture well on humid days, at least until it has reached its moisture-holding capacity.

Despite some views suggesting the inappropriateness of wearing rayon in the summer, the inherent design of rayon, built to withstand high heat and deliver lightweight comfort, seems ideal for summer wear. Thus, while respecting expert opinions, one must also exercise personal judgment in deciding the suitability of rayon for summer wear.

Is Rayon Capable of Absorbing Sweat?

Indeed, rayon can absorb sweat owing to its high moisture-absorbing capacity. This makes it suitable for high-heat conditions, as it is designed to keep the wearer cool. Consequently, overheating while wearing this fabric should not be a concern.

Nonetheless, there exists a debate on the appropriateness of wearing rayon on hot days. Some argue that rayon doesn’t effectively wick away or absorb sweat, while others uphold the opposite view. Adding to rayon’s advantages, it dries quickly after absorbing sweat, ensuring the wearer’s comfort.

The decision to wear rayon during the summer might thus depend largely on which side of the debate one aligns with. From the perspective of this discussion, rayon is deemed suitable for hot weather, designed to keep the wearer cool. However, the ultimate choice regarding its use lies with the individual’s personal preference and comfort.

Is Rayon Suitable for Night Sweats?

Indeed, rayon can be suitable for night sweats, with the effectiveness depending largely on the quality and variant of the rayon used. Night sweats are particularly common in regions experiencing high temperatures.

Using high-quality rayon bedsheets can potentially enhance breathability throughout the night, thereby preventing overheating. Among different varieties, bamboo rayon comes highly recommended for coping with night sweats, demonstrating superior performance compared to other bamboo sheet variants.

Certain types of bamboo rayon can absorb moisture up to 80% of its weight, contributing to a cooler feeling that can mitigate sweating issues. Thus, selecting the appropriate rayon material becomes essential for those experiencing difficulties in maintaining coolness during the night.

During summer, night sweats can be quite prevalent. To ensure morning refreshment, it might be beneficial to opt for rayon-type sheets that promote coolness.

Does Rayon Contribute to Sweating?

This question draws diverse opinions. Some believe that as a semi-synthetic material, rayon contributes to increased sweating, asserting that it repels rather than absorbs water. However, this contradicts the known moisture-absorbing property of rayon.

Others argue that rayon does not induce sweat due to its primarily natural fibre composition and its silky texture.

It’s also worth noting that rayon, with its breathability and quick-drying characteristics, efficiently absorbs sweat on hot days, especially when outdoors.

Perceptions on this matter often depend on the source of information and personal experience.

Factors such as the quality and thickness of the fabric, as well as the activity being performed, may also influence sweating.

From this perspective, we suggest that rayon does not induce sweating but rather assists in maintaining dryness and comfort throughout the day.

Can Rayon Emit an Odor When You Sweat?

The question of whether rayon can emit an odour when one sweat has generated varied opinions. With the fact that sweat naturally carries an odour and the ability of rayon to absorb sweat, it is possible for this odour to escape at unexpected moments.

The lightweight and thin design of rayon could assist in releasing heat, but there is a possibility that it may not equally release odour as it absorbs sweat into the fabric.

The result can depend on factors such as the thickness, quality, and style of the rayon material in use.

Additionally, if you blend rayon with another fabric, it could potentially release the odour before others notice it.

Since this topic isn’t widely discussed, we recommend relying on personal experience to guide your choice of fabric for hot weather.

Is it Safe to Wear Rayon?

When it comes to safety, wearing rayon near an open flame might not be advisable. Rayon is produced using chemicals that could be potentially flammable.

Moreover, the chemicals used in rayon production can also generate toxic elements that could cause health issues, including nausea, headaches, vomiting, muscle pain, chest pain, and sleeplessness.

The production process of rayon is not entirely environmentally friendly either, potentially polluting the air. Thus, even strolling down the street in cotton clothing might expose an individual to the harmful chemicals used in rayon production.

Jon Krakauer, Climbing’s Best-Known Author

June 26, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Hailing from the lush surroundings of Corvallis, Oregon, Jon Krakauer was born on April 12, 1954. He graduated from Hampshire College in 1976 and chose a non-traditional career path. This path led him into the harsh Alaskan wilderness, where he undertook diverse professions such as carpentry and commercial salmon fishing. However, his subsequent journey into mountaineering would etch Krakauer’s name indelibly into the annals of climbing history.

Krakauer’s literary career began to soar like the towering peaks he admired. His writing embodies the exactness of a carpenter and the relentless stamina of a fisherman. This captivated and won the admiration of worldwide readers. Today, he is lauded as a distinguished American author and mountaineer renowned for his bestselling non-fiction accounts.

Krakauer’s lauded repertoire includes “Into the Wild”, “Under the Banner of Heaven”, “Into Thin Air“, and “Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman”. Each work crafts a vibrant narrative of humans grappling with nature and their quirks. Beyond books, Krakauer’s body of work extends to an array of magazine articles bearing his byline.

Krakauer’s personal experiences, such as his involvement in the ill-fated 1996 Mount Everest expedition, heavily influence his literature. This expedition has since been recorded as one of the deadliest catastrophes in Everest’s climbing annals. Krakauer has solidified his status as climbing’s preeminent author through these ventures, recounting stories from elevations most wouldn’t dare approach. His writings encapsulate the exploration of physical terrains and the human spirit’s inner wilderness. His resonant narrative voice endures in the realms of adventure literature.

Jon Krakauer – © Wiki Commons

Krakauer: Peak of Passion

Emerging from Brookline, Massachusetts, Jon Krakauer was born as the third child to Carol Ann Jones and Lewis Joseph Krakauer. His heritage intriguingly combined Jewish and Scandinavian Unitarian roots. Krakauer spent his early years in the tranquil town of Corvallis, Oregon, which lit the spark of mountaineering interest him. When he was eight, Krakauer’s father opened the doors to the captivating climbing universe, which would eventually become an integral part of his identity.

Brought up under an exceptionally ambitious father, Krakauer faced high-set aspirations. His father pictured an academic future for him, with a successful medical profession as a Harvard Medical School graduate. According to his father, this pathway was the only route leading to significant accomplishment and lasting contentment.

Nevertheless, Krakauer discovered his enthusiasm in a different sphere. At Corvallis High School, he displayed a potent competitive streak, particularly excelling in tennis. Post-high school graduation in 1972, he attended Hampshire College in Massachusetts to study environmental sciences, earning his degree in 1976. The following year, Krakauer’s life became entangled with that of former climber Linda Mariam Moore, culminating in their marriage in 1980.

The couple initially made their home in Seattle, Washington, before relocating to Boulder, Colorado, following the launch of Krakauer’s book, “Into Thin Air“. A prodigious author, Krakauer has penned eight books to date, including renowned titles such as “Into Thin Air“, “Where Men Win Glory”, “Under the Banner of Heaven”, “Into the Wild”, and “Missoula”. “Into Thin Air” was even shortlisted for the prestigious 1998 Pulitzer Prize in General Non-fiction, further solidifying Krakauer’s standing as one of the most influential literary figures in climbing circles.

Krakauer: Everest and Beyond

Following the conclusion of his academic journey, Jon Krakauer found solace in the secluded Stikine Icecap region of Alaska during a three-week vacation. There, he dared to confront the Devil’s Thumb within the unforgiving yet stunning wilderness, etching out a novel path up the formidable mountain. His intense escapades during this expedition subsequently found their way into his books, “Eiger Dreams” and “Into the Wild”.

In 1992, Krakauer’s adventurous spirit led him to South America, specifically to the Cerro Torre in Patagonia’s Andes, renowned as one of the most technically demanding climbs globally due to its vertical granite face. Despite the daunting prospect, Krakauer undauntedly accepted the strenuous challenge.

In 1996, Krakauer partook in a guided ascent of the notorious Mount Everest. However, this expedition morphed into a tragedy when a severe storm trapped several climbers on the mountain’s treacherous inclines. Krakauer managed to reach the summit and descend to the base camp, but the violent storm claimed the lives of four teammates, including the team leader, Rob Hall, during their descent.

Krakauer’s detailed recounting of this doomed venture was initially featured in “Outside” magazine before being transformed into the critically hailed book “Into Thin Air”. The 1996 climbing season saw Everest claim fifteen lives, marking it as the deadliest year in the mountain’s history up to that point. This grim record was unfortunately eclipsed in 2014 and again in 2015, with avalanches taking the lives of sixteen and twenty-two individuals, respectively.

Since then, Krakauer has publicly expressed his disapproval of Mount Everest‘s commercialization. Moreover, in a gesture of appreciation and reverence for the Sherpas who assisted him and the other survivor of the 1996 catastrophe, Krakauer became a member of the American Himalayan Foundation. Now serving as the organization’s board chair, he strives to repay the immense personal obligation he feels towards these courageous and generous individuals.

Krakauer: A Journey in Journalism

Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer – © Wiki Commons

Jon Krakauer’s rise to literary fame was significantly influenced by his journalistic pursuits, especially his affiliation with “Outside” magazine. He transitioned from a part-time carpenter and fisherman to a full-time writer in November 1983. This change broadened his scope to cover diverse topics beyond his initial passion for mountain climbing. His skilful storytelling has graced a variety of prestigious publications, such as “Architectural Digest”, “National Geographic Magazine”, “Rolling Stone”, and “Smithsonian”.

1992 Krakauer compiled “Eiger Dreams”, comprising articles written between 1982 and 1989. These writings amplified Krakauer’s unique voice, reaching a broader readership. In an assignment for “Outside”, he recounted the tragic 1996 Mt. Everest ascent involving two expeditions led by Rob Hall and Scott Fischer. The storm-battered descent was marred by what Krakauer saw as reckless decisions by the guides, resulting in several fatalities, including both expedition leaders.

Krakauer felt his initial brief account didn’t sufficiently convey the event’s enormity. Hence, he expanded on the incident in “Into Thin Air“, providing a more detailed perspective, including clarifications about the death of mountain guide Andy Harris. This book also included in-depth interviews with the disaster’s survivors, ensuring a comprehensive narrative.

In 1999, the American Academy of Arts and Letters recognized Krakauer’s literary contributions by awarding him the Arts and Letters Award for Literature. This honour acknowledges his exceptional investigative journalism skills and innate talent for storytelling. The award citation noted that Krakauer’s work blends the tenacity and courage of high-quality investigative journalism with a natural writer’s stylistic subtlety and insightful depth. His influence continues to resonate in multiple spheres, with his writings also appearing in esteemed outlets like “The New Yorker”, “The Washington Post”, and “The New York Times”.

Books

Jon Krakauer
Jon Krakauer – © Chermiti Mohamed, Unsplash

Into the Wild

Published in 1996, “Into the Wild” demonstrates Jon Krakauer’s extraordinary storytelling ability and his knack for unravelling the intricacies of human psychology. The book’s consistent presence on The New York Times Best Seller List for two years exemplifies its enthralling narrative and widespread appeal.

The narrative traces the adventures of Christopher McCandless, a young man born into an affluent East Coast family. After graduating from Emory University in 1990, McCandless donated his $24,000 savings to Oxfam, a humanitarian charity. He then adopted the “Alexander Supertramp” alias and sailed across the American West. The narrative reaches a sorrowful conclusion when, in September 1992, McCandless’ remains were found on the Stampede Trail in Alaska, revealing that he had perished from starvation.

With skill, Krakauer weaves McCandless’ story with his own experiences and those of other adventurers, forming captivating parallels that enrich the narrative. The book’s influence expanded further when adapted into a critically acclaimed film in September 2007. This adaptation solidified its position in pop culture and broadened the scope of McCandless’ touching journey, reaching an even larger audience.

Eiger Dreams

“Eiger Dreams: Ventures Among Men and Mountains” is a remarkable entry in Jon Krakauer’s extensive literary repertoire. Released in 1990, this anthology of non-fiction articles and essays predominantly revolves around mountaineering and rock climbing. The compilation offers readers a first-hand view of Krakauer’s bold adventures across some of the world’s most daunting peaks, providing an enlightening peek into the mountaineering society.

The subject matter spans from audacious climbs of intimidating mountains such as the Eiger Nordwand in the Swiss Alps, Denali in Alaska, and K2 in the Karakoram range, to personal sketches of esteemed rock climbers encountered by Krakauer on his voyages. Among the distinguished personalities profiled is John Gill, who is synonymous with climbing. Krakauer’s “Eiger Dreams” grants readers a distinctive vantage point on these natural behemoths and the men and women who strive to surmount them. The pages artfully blend the thrill of adventure with the thoughtful exploration of human perseverance and aspiration.

Into Thin Air

In 1997, a year after the heartrending Mount Everest catastrophe, Jon Krakauer expanded his initial article for Outside magazine into a comprehensive book titled “Into Thin Air“. This non-fiction narrative vividly depicts the doomed Everest expedition that Krakauer participated in, led by Rob Hall, culminating in the deadliest Everest disaster known at that time.

“Into Thin Air” gained popularity fast. It topped The New York Times non-fiction best-seller list. Time magazine also acknowledged it. They honoured it as the “Book of the Year”.

In 1999, Krakauer received an accolade. It was an Academy Award in Literature. The American Academy of Arts and Letters gave him this award. They praised his combination of skills. These included insightful journalism and skilled narrative. The Academy also recognized Krakauer’s work as a catalyst for broad reconsidering mountaineering and its commercial aspects.

However, “Into Thin Air” stirred controversy, particularly regarding Krakauer’s depiction of Anatoli Boukreev, a Russian-Kazakhstani guide from Scott Fischer‘s team. Krakauer critiqued Boukreev’s choice to ascend without supplemental oxygen and his decision to descend ahead of his clients. Although Boukreev’s guiding decisions ignited debate within the mountaineering community, his rescue efforts were widely viewed as heroic.

Controversy continued with the 2015 feature film “Everest”, inspired by the same ill-fated expedition. Krakauer, represented by Michael Kelly in the film, publicly condemned the film for inaccuracies and distortions. In response, director Baltasar Kormákur stated that Krakauer’s account was not a primary source for the film.

Krakauer directed the royalties from “Into Thin Air” to the Everest ’96 Memorial Fund, which he established in honour of his fallen climbing companions. Despite the controversies, the book starkly depicts high-altitude mountaineering and is a testament to Krakauer’s narrative skill and perseverance.

Under the Banner of Heaven

Jon Krakauer published another best-seller in 2003. The title of the book is “Under the Banner of Heaven”. The book provides an in-depth look at radical religious beliefs. It primarily focuses on Mormonism’s fundamentalist splinter groups. The book discusses the practice of polygamy within these sects. It traces the origin of this practice. It also explores how it has evolved within the Latter-Day Saints religion.

The Lafferty brothers feature heavily in the story. They committed a terrifying act of murdering Erica and Brenda Lafferty. They did this in the name of their faith. The heart of Krakauer’s book is the meticulous dissection of this act.

The book “Under the Banner of Heaven” caused quite a stir, inspiring the 2006 documentary “Damned to Heaven” by Tom Elliott and Pawel Gula. Nevertheless, the book faced severe backlash from the LDS community. Brigham Young University’s Professor of Religious Understanding, Robert Millet, criticized the book as misleading and offensive. Mike Otterson, the Director of Media Relations for the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, dismissed Krakauer as a simple storyteller who twists facts to create an engaging narrative.

Unfazed, Krakauer criticized the LDS Church’s leadership for obscuring the more challenging aspects of Mormon history. He associated his views with those of historian D. Michael Quinn, who was excommunicated from the LDS Church in 1993.

In April 2022, Hulu breathed new life into “Under the Banner of Heaven” by releasing a limited series based on the book featuring Andrew Garfield and Daisy Edgar-Jones. Despite the controversy and debate, the book underscores Krakauer’s reputation as a bold explorer of intricate and demanding subjects.

Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman

Jon Krakauer dedicated himself to his forthcoming book in 2007. Doubleday Publishing announced the eagerly anticipated work during the season premiere of “Iconoclasts” on the Sundance Channel, targeting a fall 2008 release. However, Krakauer postponed the release due to his dissatisfaction with the manuscript.

At last, Doubleday released “Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman” on September 15, 2009. The book thoroughly investigates Pat Tillman’s life and controversial death, accentuating his journey from an NFL professional football player to a U.S. Army Ranger and his subsequent demise in Afghanistan. Krakauer scrutinizes the U.S. Army’s concealment of Tillman’s death by friendly fire, which elevated Tillman to an American symbol of sacrifice and courage.

The book portrays a comprehensive picture of Tillman’s life and death, drawing from his diaries and letters, interviews with his wife and friends, discussions with fellow soldiers, and Krakauer’s research in Afghanistan. In addition, it provides a broader historical account of Afghanistan’s civil wars.

“Where Men Win Glory” received a range of reviews. Dexter Filkins wrote for The New York Times Book Review. He disapproved of the inclusion of trivial details about Tillman’s life. However, he did praise Krakauer’s compilation of facts. These facts related to Tillman’s death and the subsequent cover-up.

On the other hand, Dan Neil had a different perspective. He reviewed for the Los Angeles Times and acclaimed the book as a “beautiful piece of reporting”. He also labelled it the “definitive version of events surrounding Tillman’s death”. This underscored Krakauer’s talent for unravelling complex stories.

Three Cups of Deceit: How Greg Mortenson, Humanitarian Hero, Lost His Way

Jon Krakauer is primarily known for his contributions to climbing literature. However, he made waves in the humanitarian sphere in 2011. He did this with his provocative e-book, “Three Cups of Deceit”. This contentious exposé was later published in paperback. Anchor Books was responsible for this publication. The book made severe allegations against Greg Mortenson. Mortenson is a philanthropist.

He is dedicated to building schools in Pakistan and Afghanistan. He carries out this work through his non-profit organization. The organization is called the Central Asia Institute (CAI). The accusations against him included accounting fraud and mismanagement.

A “60 Minutes” interview corroborating these accusations and aired just a day before the book’s release instigated a class-action lawsuit. A group of CAI donors brought this legal action. They alleged that Mortenson deceived them with false claims in his published works. However, despite the ensuing furore, the court ultimately dismissed the case.

To counter these charges, CAI unveiled a detailed list of finished and ongoing projects in December 2011, illustrating their undeterred commitment to their mission.

Further complicating matters, the Montana attorney general investigated Mortenson and CAI, concluding that financial “missteps” had transpired. This led to a settlement requiring Mortenson to repay the CAI more than $1 million.

The plot thickened in 2016 with the launch of a documentary named “3000 Cups of Tea” by filmmakers Jennifer Jordan and Jeff Rhoads. Compared to Krakauer’s allegations and the “60 Minutes” report, the documentary suggested that most charges at Mortenson were misrepresentation or outright fabrication. Jordan, the documentary’s director, recognized Mortenson’s confession of being a subpar manager and accountant. However, she reaffirmed his unwavering commitment to his humanitarian mission. As the controversy subsided, the sequence of events left an unerasable imprint on Mortenson’s legacy and ignited a broader discourse on transparency within philanthropic entities.

Missoula: Rape and the Justice System in a College Town

Jon Krakauer wrote a book in 2015. The title is “Missoula: Rape and the Justice System in a College Town”. The book examines how colleges and law enforcement handle rape cases. It specifically focuses on the University of Montana.

Krakauer criticizes the system. He suggests there is a bias toward the aggressors. This is further underscored by victims’ reluctance to disclose. His critique was motivated by a personal account. A young woman had shared her own experience with rape.

However, the book’s reception was mixed. New York Times Book Review’s Emily Bazelon critiqued it for inadequate character depth and not fully understanding colleges’ challenges in addressing sexual assault. She believed the book didn’t correctly discuss universities’ recent duty to investigate such incidents, bypassing the legal system independently. Critics argued Krakauer’s oversimplified viewpoint lacked depth, but his work still adds value to the dialogue on college sexual assault and justice.

The Madonnas: The Alpine Odyssey of Pierrel and Boucansaud

June 21, 2023 by endorfeen

In a recently concluded alpine tour that lasted ten days, the renowned French mountaineers Guillaume Pierrel, aged 38, and Lucien Boucansaud, aged 27, successfully undertook a journey spanning 130 kilometres and ascending 16,000 metres across the revered Mont-Blanc massif. Setting out from Courmayeur’s church on the Italian side, their journey culminated in Chamonix, covering the iconic summits home to the statues of the Virgin Mary, known locally as ‘Les Madones’.

A Historic Pilgrimage

Although not practising Christians, the mountaineers expressed a deep appreciation for the craftsmen who installed these statues, driven by a combination of faith, love for mountains, and admiration of its beauty. The duo reverently referred to these silent Virgins that welcomed them atop each summit as “reassuring” and “beautiful” figures transforming the mountains into sanctuaries.

Throughout their journey, Pierrel and Boucansaud followed a meticulous itinerary, navigating technically demanding routes, sometimes creating protective pathways themselves. Despite facing challenges such as unstable weather conditions, abundant snow due to a rainy spring, and even having to carve steps out of ice, the climbers persevered, opting for fast and light ascensions each day to avoid dangerous weather conditions.

A Journey Through Heritage

This endeavour was deeply personal for Boucansaud, who uncovered a familial connection to one of the Madone installations during the 1920s through photographs and letters found at his family home. The statue at Grépon, dubbed the “queen of madones,” held a special place in his heart, leading to its pivotal role in the inception of this project during a bivouac at the summit of Grépon.

Throughout their expedition, the duo traversed legendary peaks such as the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Dent du Géant, and Les Drus, using a mix of hiking, paragliding, and cycling, foregoing mechanical lifts in a bid to undertake a clean, self-propelled journey that honoured the spiritual and cultural heritage encapsulated by the Madone statues.

Documenting a Modern Alpine Adventure

© Mathurin Vautier

Enriching their historic expedition is an impending documentary titled ‘La Madone’, which aims to accentuate the grandeur of this cultural heritage, retracing the climbers’ journey while paying homage to those who brought their faith to Mont-Blanc’s apex. Spearheaded by Pierrel alongside Laurent Jamet, the film, supported by FODACIM, intends to weave the statue’s tales with their modern alpine exploits captured through drone cinematography piloted by Stéphane Guigné and guided by high mountain expert Christopher Baud.

A Multisport Raid across Borders

Setting off on 6th June, the duo embarked on a multisport raid involving alpinism, ski touring, paragliding, and cycling, moving seamlessly across France, Italy, and Switzerland. Despite not being practising Christians, the climbers acknowledged a spiritual connection to the mountain, feeling a sense of protection during their journey. The endeavour encapsulated the spirit of friendship and reverence for the guardians of the Alpine summits, fostering a connection between the climbers and the silent witnesses of the mountains’ majestic beauty.

© Mathurin Vautier

Their journey held many awe-inspiring moments, from descending with a rallying cry of “Ciao la Madone!” at Grépon to marvelling at the immaculate craftsmanship of the statues dotting their path, including the exquisite Notre-Dame-des-Drus, initially set up over a century ago.

Conclusion

Guillaume Pierrel and Lucien Boucansaud have not only paid homage to a significant chapter of alpine heritage but also strengthened a timeless bond with the silent protectors gracing the Mont-Blanc summits. Their tour, blending spirituality with an ambitious sporting challenge, stands as a testimony to endurance, friendship, and reverence for both heritage and the towering guardians of the Alps. This remarkable feat beckons onlookers to witness the transformative journey from mountaineers to modern-day pilgrims, a journey marked by reverence, spirit, and the raw beauty of the Alpine landscape.

The Drus – History, Approach and Route

June 15, 2023 by endorfeen

Majestic and legendary, the Drus, two peaks of a mountain in the prestigious Mont-Blanc massif in Haute-Savoie, stand proudly to reach dizzying altitudes.

This mountain is split into two distinct peaks: the Grand Dru, the highest, reaching 3,754 m, and the Petit Dru, slightly lower at 3,730 m. Overlooking Montenvers, the Petit Dru is particularly notable for its vertiginous granite face, one of the steepest in the Alps, with an impressive height of 1,000 m and an average slope exceeding 75°.

Located in the heart of the Mont-Blanc massif, the Drus mountain stands out for its visibility from the famous town of Chamonix. These two peaks beautifully embody verticality, inaccessibility, and commitment, values every mountaineer must respect. The south face, less visible from the valley but less steep, offers a prime route for thrill-seekers with one of the most beautiful D-grade routes in the massif, the crossing from Petit to Grand Dru.

The Drus, whose two peaks compete in height with their respective 3,700 meters, are distinguished by their sharp silhouette, particularly that of the Grand Dru, shaped by numerous rockfalls throughout history. The first ascents of the Drus bear witness to their sporting challenge: the ascent of the Grand Dru in 1878 (C. Thomas Dent, J. Walker Hartley, A. Burgener and K. Maurer) and the ascent of the Petit Dru the following year (Jean Charlet-Straton, Prosper Payot and Frédéric Folliguet). These feats illustrate the courage and perseverance of mountain climbers, always ready to push the limits to reach the most impressive summits.

The Drus: A Look Back at Their History and Legends

The Drus: Chronicle of the Alpine Conquests of Mont Blanc

In the pages of mountaineering history, the Dru mountain in the Mont-Blanc range holds an honourable place. It has been the scene of numerous first ascents and treks, a perpetual invitation to push the boundaries of alpine exploration.

The first ascent of the Grand Dru took place in 1878, accomplished by Clinton Thomas Dent, James Walker Hartley, Alexandre Burgener, and K. Maurer. The following year, the Petit Dru was conquered by Jean Charlet-Straton, Prosper Payot, and Frédéric Folliguet.

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Aiguille du Dru, 1855 – 1900

In 1887, a courageous team of mountaineers comprising François Simond, Émile Rey, and Henri Dunod made the first crossing from the Grand to Petit Dru, using long ropes and taking the North face.

Émile Rey - First ascent of the Drus
Émile Rey, 1885

Pierre Allain and Raymond Leininger accomplished the first ascent of the north face in 1935, while the first winter crossing of the Drus was carried out by Armand Charlet and Camille Devouassoux in 1938. The same year, Laurent Grivel and Mr. and Mrs. A. Frova stood out by making the first ascent of the southeast face of the Grand Dru.

Over the years, more feats have been accomplished. In 1952, André Contamine and Michel Bastien climbed the south pillar of Grand Dru. In 1961, Robert Guillaume and Antoine Vieille made the first winter ascent of the Bonatti Pillar.

The year 1964 saw the first winter ascent of the north face of Petit Dru by Georges Payot, Yvon Masino, and Gérard Devouassoux. In 1967, Yannick Seigneur, Michel Feuillerade, Jean-Paul Paris, and Claude Jager made a direct ascent of the north face in winter.

The first solo ascent of the north face of the Grand Dru was accomplished by Joël Coqueugniot in 1969. Two years later, Jean-Claude Droyer successfully made the solo ascent on the direct Hemming-Robbins route.

In 1974, Walter Cecchinel and Claude Jager made the first ascent and first winter climb of the northeast corridor of Les Drus. In 1976, Walter Cecchinel and D. Stolzenberg were the first to achieve the winter ascent of the north face of Les Drus Pass.

Finally, let’s mention a unique adventure: in 1913, a group of mountaineers set out to install a hollow aluminium statue of the Virgin of Lourdes, weighing 13 kilograms and measuring almost a meter high, on the Petit Dru. Unfortunately, bad weather forced them to leave it at around 3,000 meters above sea level. It wasn’t until after the war, in 1919, that the statue was finally placed and sealed at the top. An image that adds an even more mythical and sacred dimension to this mountain.

West Face of the Drus: Story of a Conquest, from Triumph to Resilience

When Pierre Allain faced the North face of the Drus, he conjectured that the West side would remain forever impregnable. However, as early as 1952, the impossible was challenged by A. Dagory, Guido Magnone, Lucien Bérardini, and M. Lainé, who managed to climb it in two consecutive assaults, requiring the intensive use of artificial climbing techniques. This moment marked the start of a new chapter in the history of the Drus.

In 1955, Italian mountaineer Walter Bonatti accomplished an unprecedented feat by solo climbing the Southwest Pillar during a five-day ascent, hailed as one of the greatest achievements in mountaineering history. Jean-Christophe Lafaille, in 2001, pioneered a new route solo, also employing artificial climbing techniques.

Walter Bonatti - © Mario De Biasi (Mondadori Publishers), Wiki Commons
Walter Bonatti – © Mario De Biasi (Mondadori Publishers), Wiki Commons

In 1962, Gary Hemming and Royal Robbins, two American climbers, pioneered a major variant route leading directly from the base of the face to the stuck block, where it joins the 1952 route. Named the “American Direct”, this route became a great classic. Three years later, Royal Robbins, this time accompanied by John Harlin, charted another direct route that was extremely difficult and rarely repeated, right in the centre of the face.

René Desmaison, a renowned French alpinist, also made a significant mark in the history of the West face of the Drus through his notable ascents: the fourth ascent of the original route with Jean Couzy in 1955, the first winter ascent with the same partner in 1957, and finally, the first solo ascent in 1963, again via the classic route.

In the 70s and 80s, the inherent quality of the initiated climbing took precedence over the layout of the opened route. Thomas Gross is known for his perseverance, spending about fifty days on the West face of the Drus to force the passage no matter the cost.

Several other “routes” further enrich this history, including the “folding seats of paradise” by the Remy brothers (1980), the “route of the Genevans” by Nicolas Schenkel and B. Wietlisbach (1981), and the “French direct route” opened by teams from the High Mountain Military School in 1982. On the other hand, Michel Piola and Pierre-Alain Steiner marked a remarkable route on the left side of the face, named “cardiac passage”, between 1984 and 1986.

In 1991, Catherine Destivelle made a notable entry into mountaineering history by single-handedly opening a high-difficulty route, which now bears her name. Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Marc Batard added two other solo routes.

Subsequent landslides erase most of these routes, leaving only the paths on the far left of the wall intact. These events allow new routes to emerge once the rock is stabilized. Audacious Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko ventured into the critical zone a few months after the 1997 landslide to establish a new transient route.

After the second wave of landslides (2003-2005), Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen opened a new route on this untouched face in 2007. In February 2021, four Military High Mountain Group climbers opened a winter route named BASE and shared this adventure in real time on YouTube for four days.

The Drus Facing Erosion: Landslides and Transformations of an Alpine Icon

Dominating the landscape, the west face of the Drus presents itself as a towering pyramidal wall more than a thousand meters high. This face is the scene of intense erosion, causing recurrent massive landslides. Nine have been recorded between 1905 and 2011, resulting in the fall of more than 400,000 cubic meters of rocks. The erosion, starting at the base and extending towards the summit, probably began at the end of the Little Ice Age in the 18th century. The eminent Bonatti pillar, once peaking at 500m, is now just a memory. The major landslide of 2005 represents nearly three-quarters of the total volume that collapsed in the last century and a half.

The first landslide of this period was triggered by the Chamonix earthquake, which occurred on August 13, 1905, with a felt intensity of VI on the MSK scale. The landslide of 1950, coinciding with a period of heatwaves during the summers of 1942 and 1943, highlights the potential role of climate change in the magnitude and frequency of these incidents.

Significant landslides also occurred in 1997, 2003, 2005, and 2011, during which climate warming might have played a major role. These events significantly altered the mountain’s structure and erased many historical climbing routes. The 2005 landslide, the most significant of the period studied, was caused by an exceptionally hot summer, accompanied by heavy rains, on a cliff already weakened by the heatwave of 2003. The fallen rocks cover an area of 90 to 95,000 m2 on the Drus glacier, with a thickness of 5 to 10 meters. Lesser landslides, totalling 10,000 to 12,000 m3, took place on September 10th and 11th, 2011, as well as a 60,000 m3 landslide on October 30th, 2011.

Crossing the Drus: Ultimate Alpine Adventure Guide

Approach, from the Montenvers Train to the Charpoua Refuge

Embark on the Montenvers train and continue your exploration by climbing the Mer de Glace up to the Moine needle, an adventure of about an hour and a half. In 2016, a renovated access was created for the Charpoua Refuge, perched at 2,841 meters. This route connects to the Balcony trail of the Mer de Glace, marked with ladders, handrails, and yellow rectangles. This climb, starting at 2,060 meters and culminating in a junction with the trail at 2,380 meters, offers you an ascent of 320 meters.

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La Charpoua – © Nicolas Vigier, Wiki Commons

Next, take the Balcon Trail, which will lead you slightly backwards, to reach the Charpoua Circus in an hour and a half. In total, expect a hike of 4 to 6 hours from the Montenvers station—a true immersion into the heart of the splendours of the Mont-Blanc Massif.

The Crossing of the Drus – Route

This alpine route offers a difficulty rating of D, V+/A0, spanning 900m, typically completed in three days. From the refuge, climb the knob of La Charpoua up to approximately 3,000m altitude (25-30 min), then cross the glacier using the highest route to avoid major crevasses.

At an elevation of about 3,050m, follow a long horizontal ledge at the bottom of the south face. Follow it to the left until you reach two gullies. Climb up the terraces of the left gully, which, over a distance of 200m, leads you to the south-west ridge of the Stone Flames.

A few meters below the ridge, a rock pinnacle (3,361 m) is bypassed on the right at the level of a square gap and a chimney that you climb by starting from the left.

Continue by lightly pulling towards the left until you reach a shoulder that marks the actual beginning of difficulties (IV+ to V+).

Follow the ridge, which becomes less and less distinct due to a series of ledges, chimneys, and cracks, on the right at the beginning, then towards the west side in hidden gully chimneys.

About fifty meters from the summit, follow a ledge to the right, climb back to the left to bypass the corner and join a corridor that leads to the summit at the level of the Virgin. This should take between 5 and 7 hours from the refuge.

Join the Drus breach (3,697 m) by descending the Charpoua slope, then climb up to the Grand Dru through a small and short crack (V) leading to a ledge.

Follow this turn to the right for 10 m, then, via a flake, a crack, and a slab, return to the left.

Switching to the north side through the Z passage allows you to bypass the overhang on the left via a goat rake.

Above the north corridor, ascend a crack (IV), then a long uncomfortable chimney (6a, rope with knot installed, count 1h30 for this traverse) and exit to the left. This route is a demanding and thrilling climbing adventure, offering a truly breathtaking experience.

The Descent

From the summit of the Grand Dru, begin a descent of about 150 m along the east/northeast ridge, staying on the Charpoua side in the direction of the Col des Drus until you reach the edge of the ridge. At the entrance to the north couloir, look for terraces that you can access by down-climbing. You will find the first rappel near a small pinnacle topped by a block.

Les Drus - Crossing
Les Drus – © Henk Monster, Wiki Commons

The following reminders follow in this way:

  • A first 45m rappel brings you to the first terrace.
  • Next, a 48m rappel down a broad green-tinted chimney leads you to a relay on a terrace to the left.
  • A third 35m rappel along a spur leads you to a gravel ledge.
  • Finally, a rappel of 50m on a smooth wall and on ledges takes you to a small spur.

Moving forward, you have two options in the hallway:

  • The right side (48m + 45m + 47m + 50m shifted 20m to the right, followed by a bit of downclimbing).
  • Or the left side (48m + 48m on a slab + 35m shifted to the left by 10m + 30m on a ledge).

A detailed map of this descent is available at the refuge for consultation.

Finally, cross the glacier, starting on the right bank and then going to the left bank until you reach the grove. From there, descend back to the Charpoua refuge. Plan for between 3 to 4 hours from the Grand Dru for this portion of the descent.

Viscose vs Cotton – A Guide to Select the Right One

June 12, 2023 by Furqan Javed

Understanding the nuanced distinctions between viscose and cotton can be vital for selecting appropriate products and equipment. Despite being fundamentally different, these materials offer unique advantages and present specific challenges that are integral to the user’s comfort and convenience.

Cotton, an organic fibre from cotton plants, has been cherished for generations due to its soft texture, robust nature, and breathability. Cotton’s innate ability to manage heat and moisture makes it a versatile choice for bedding, particularly appealing to those in varied climates. Nevertheless, when considering cotton bedding, you should contemplate the material’s tendency to shrink and fade and its propensity to wrinkle.

Conversely, viscose (rayon) is a semi-synthetic fibre derived from cellulose, typically procured from wood pulp. With its glossy appearance, excellent draping capacity, and economic viability, viscose has gained considerable traction in the bedding industry. It provides excellent moisture-wicking properties, catering to individuals who favour a cooler sleep environment. However, the longevity and quality of viscose products may be compromised due to their lower durability and likelihood to pill.

Considering the manufacturing methodologies, inherent attributes, and potential setbacks associated with cotton vs viscose is paramount. This knowledge empowers consumers, enabling them to make wise choices about their bedding requirements, whether they are preparing for a mountainous adventure or simply seeking optimum sleep comfort.

Viscose vs Cotton
Viscose vs Cotton – © Ekaterina Grosheva, Unsplash

What Is Cotton?

Cotton is the leading natural fibre in the world, playing a significant role in the production of mattresses and fabrics. Cotton plants flourish in various regions across the globe, and people cultivate cotton from their seedpods. China, India, and the United States are the primary producers of this crop.

Cotton possesses unique properties, enhancing its popularity in numerous applications. One remarkable feature is its heightened wet durability, offering exceptional absorption and strength even in damp conditions. As a result, cotton is ideal for items necessitating high wet strength, outperforming other materials like viscose under regular wash cycles.

The creation of cotton fabric is a detailed process. Initially, textile mills acquired substantial amounts of raw cotton bales. These bales undergo several phases of weaving and knitting, twisting the fibres into threads that ultimately become yarn. Following this transformation, the yarn threads are woven or knitted again to produce the final cloth. This intricate journey from plant to fabric reflects cotton’s versatility and resilience, ensuring its enduring relevance in the textile industry, whether for alpine camping gear or everyday household items.

What Is Viscose?

Viscose, a regenerated cellulose fibre, balances natural and synthetic materials. Despite some varieties being derived from bamboo, it is considered a manufactured fibre. Viscose’s popularity stems from its ability to emulate the luxurious look and feel of more expensive fabrics without the hefty price tag.

Distinct properties distinguish viscose from other materials. Its capacity for dye absorption ensures vibrant, long-lasting hues. The fabric also boasts a silky luster, creating an eye-catching contrast with other textiles. Despite these luxurious characteristics, viscose remains exceptionally soft, providing a comforting sensation against the skin, which is particularly appealing in bedding. Furthermore, viscose exhibits superior draping qualities, enhancing its aesthetic appeal.

The production process for viscose begins with the cellulose from bamboo plants. Chemical solutions dissolve this cellulose to create a pulp-like substance. Manufacturers then spin this substance into fibres and weave it into threads. The chemical solvents typically employed in this process include sulfuric acid, carbon disulfide, and sodium hydroxide. Despite its complex production process, the result is a versatile fabric that proves popular in various applications, from outdoor adventure gear to luxury bedding.

Environmental Impact of Viscose

In the face of alarming statistics, such as the average US citizen discarding approximately 70 pounds of textiles annually and textile waste occupying nearly 5% of landfill space. The shift towards eco-friendly fabrics is crucial. Among these, viscose stands out due to its biodegradability, derived from renewable resources. However, the environmental impacts of its production process must be considered.

Deforestation, a pressing environmental issue, stems from harvesting wood cellulose for viscose production. Numerous fashion brands have collaborated with viscose manufacturers who obtain their wood cellulose from sustainably-managed forests to mitigate this. This practice ensures the continued availability of this natural resource without causing environmental harm.

Air emissions from viscose manufacturing sites sometimes contain harmful chemicals like hydrogen sulfide. Addressing this, some manufacturers have adopted the lyocell process, which generates fewer environmentally toxic byproducts. Viscose produced using this method, known as lyocell, is another rayon often used to create cooling bed sheets.

Moreover, viscose production is water-intensive, potentially damaging this vital resource. Hence, in eco-friendliness, viscose fares better than synthetic fibres, but it still lags behind all-natural fibres. The environmental impact of viscose thus requires further innovation and sustainable practices to classify it as a green textile truly.

Cotton and Viscose: Key Differences

Viscose vs Cotton
Viscose vs Cotton – © Ekaterina Grosheva, Unsplash

Differentiating between viscose and cotton is essential when selecting materials for various outdoor adventures. The nature of the fibre, its strength, its behaviour when wet, and its uses are crucial aspects to consider.
Viscose, a semi-synthetic fabric, contrasts sharply with the natural cotton fabric.

This difference extends to the strength of the fibre as well. While cotton fibres exhibit significant resilience, viscose fibres lack this robust quality. Additionally, cotton fibres fortify when wet, whereas viscose fibres deteriorate in strength upon moisture exposure. This discrepancy might influence the choice between the two materials, especially for uses involving regular exposure to water.

These fibres also diverge in their applications. Cotton, known for its absorbent quality, finds utility in cleaning and managing body fluids. Conversely, Viscose does not find a place in medical applications due to its relatively weaker nature.

Differences are evident even in their production processes. Cotton is harvested, cleaned, scoured, purified, and finished before drying and baling. On the contrary, viscose undergoes a more complex and extensive process. It begins with harvesting, debarking, and chipping, followed by chemical and hydra-pulping processing. After blending, screening, and cleaning, the wood pulp undergoes several steps, including steeping, shredding, ageing, xanthation, dissolution, ripening, straining, and degasification. After these stages, the material undergoes a wet spinning process, then drawing, stretching, and finishing before workers cut and bale the final product.

This contrast between viscose and cotton regarding their characteristics and manufacturing processes is instrumental in identifying the appropriate material for outdoor and mountainous applications.

Bamboo Viscose vs Cotton Socks: An Exploration of Comfort and Hygiene

When it comes to the selection of comfortable socks, bamboo viscose has been gaining considerable attention, emerging as an appealing alternative to traditional cotton. Hailing from a robust grass species, bamboo imbues an array of desirable qualities that may prompt a reconsideration of sock preferences.

One defining attribute of bamboo viscose is the presence of Bamboo Kun, an element not found in cotton. This compound actively combats foot odour by suppressing the growth of bacteria and fungi typically attracted to cotton. Consequently, socks made of bamboo viscose offer an added layer of hygiene and protection, mitigating unpleasant odours and maintaining foot health.

Further enhancing their allure, bamboo viscose socks are often more breathable than their cotton counterparts. This attribute ensures that feet remain cool and fresh, an invaluable benefit, particularly in warmer climates or during strenuous activities. Thus, bamboo viscose socks could answer those seeking comfort, hygiene, and breathability.

Bamboo Viscose vs Egyptian Cotton

In assessing the characteristics of Bamboo Viscose and Egyptian Cotton, it becomes clear that these fabrics present a set of unique benefits and features that align differently with varied consumer needs.

Durability is a trait shared by both. The longevity of these materials, with the potential to endure up to a decade and a half with appropriate maintenance, represents a commendable testament to their robustness.

Regarding tactility, bamboo viscose tends to emulate the smoothness of silk, albeit devoid of the slippery touch, creating a unique tactile experience. On the other hand, Egyptian cotton exudes a plush, opulent feel. Which is amplified as the thread count increases, lending an air of luxury.

Moreover, both fabrics showcase hypoallergenic qualities. Bamboo viscose, in particular, scores highly on this front, making it suitable for those prone to allergies. Egyptian cotton is also considered gentle on sensitive skin, with certain varieties possessing superior hypoallergenic properties.

Reviewing environmental impact, bamboo viscose emerges as the greener alternative. The fast-growing nature of bamboo, coupled with its low pesticide dependency, accords it with a lower ecological footprint. Conversely, cotton cultivation often necessitates using pesticides and other chemicals to counteract its natural pests, which can negatively affect the environment.

Lastly, the affordability of these fabrics is contingent upon an array of factors, leading to a wide price spectrum. Hence, a diligent comparative shopping approach is crucial to source the material that best suits one’s budget and requirements.

In essence, the choice between bamboo viscose and Egyptian cotton depends mainly on individual preferences, with aspects like texture, hypoallergenic attributes, ecological concerns, and pricing playing decisive roles.

Cotton and Viscose: A Close Look at Breathability Factors

In the realm of breathable fabrics, the comparison of viscose and cotton brings forth an intriguing dynamic.

Some enthusiasts tout viscose, also known as rayon, as an excellent material for dissipating body heat efficiently, particularly in elevated temperatures. This attribute of viscose primarily hinges on its unique drape, which facilitates rapid heat exchange between the body and the surrounding air.

Cotton, on the other hand, is renowned for its breathability and moisture-absorbing capacity. While it might lack the draping quality inherent to viscose, its ability to wick moisture away from the skin aids in maintaining dry, cool comfort.

However, a noteworthy distinction lies in the behaviour of these fabrics under damp conditions. Despite its breathability, viscose tends to lose strength when wet, a factor that could impair its breathability. Cotton, in contrast, retains its power even in moist states, potentially providing more consistent breathability compared to viscose under similar conditions.

The choice between viscose and cotton for breathable attire is nuanced, depending on factors like heat management, moisture absorption, and the fabric’s performance when wet.

Price Comparison

Several factors come into play when evaluating viscose and cotton from a cost perspective. Viscose typically has a lower production cost, which subsequently reflects in its retail price. Conversely, cotton tends to be pricier, with the worth attributed to using pesticides and other chemicals essential for maintaining the plant’s health.

As a general rule, cotton is often more expensive than viscose. While this may only hold at some times, in some stores, or with lower-quality cotton, it is a valuable guide when considering these materials from a price perspective.

Nevertheless, the price shouldn’t be the sole determining factor. The ultimate choice of fabric should hinge on its intended use. Cotton’s versatility offers more application options, making it a popular choice for various projects. On the other hand, viscose outperforms in terms of draping capabilities, making it the go-to choice when an exceptional drape is desired. Thus, both materials have a unique appeal in the outdoor gear and textile worlds. With cost and usage requirements driving the ultimate decision.

Final Thoughts: Weighing Up Viscose vs Cotton

In selecting the ideal bedding material, awareness of the available options’ characteristics, advantages, and disadvantages is crucial. Cotton, renowned for its versatility, performs admirably under various conditions. However, cotton may not be the most suitable choice for those mindful of budget constraints and moisture issues.

On the other hand, viscose provides a cost-effective alternative that does not compromise on luxury. Nonetheless, it carries a heavier environmental footprint and demands more caution during cleaning. Both these materials find extensive usage in contemporary bedding, and understanding their respective performance can prevent unnecessary inconvenience.

Thus, deciding between cotton and viscose depends heavily on individual preferences, financial considerations, and environmental concerns. Considering these factors can ensure a well-informed choice that aligns with the individual’s needs and the sustainability of the natural world, especially when venturing into the great outdoors.

Viscose vs Cotton
Viscose vs Cotton – © Héctor J. Rivas, Unsplash

Cotton vs Viscose – Frequently Asked Questions

Is Viscose Material Good Or Bad?

Amid the benefits that viscose brings to the table, potential buyers often express concerns about its limitations and environmental impact. Its capacity to absorb water and body oils readily can contribute to discolouration and diminishing marking. Over time, it maintains both its aesthetic appeal and structural integrity.

Moreover, the maintenance of viscose typically calls for dry cleaning only. As such, bedding like sheets and mattresses from this material might require more meticulous care and potentially expensive dry cleaning services. This aspect could present challenges for those seeking easy-to-care-for outdoor gear or bedding solutions, making cotton or other materials a potentially more practical choice. Thus, although viscose provides a budget-friendly and luxurious feel, consumers should know about these potential downsides to make the best selection.

Does Viscose Shrink?

The contrast in wet strength between cotton and viscose often leads to various questions from consumers. While cotton shows resilience even under moist conditions, viscose does not possess the same durability. Its fibres, vulnerable to moisture, may deteriorate, limiting its capacity to withstand regular washing cycles.

Consequently, viscose-based products are frequently recommended for dry cleaning only. This structural frailty necessitates careful reading of care labels when purchasing bedding, particularly for those planning outdoor adventures or activities involving exposure to wet conditions. Hence, understanding the limitations of each material helps in selecting the appropriate fabric that caters to one’s specific requirements and expectations.

Is Cotton or Viscose Cooler?

Understanding the thermal properties of viscose and cotton often emerges as a critical question for those making decisions about outdoor gear or bedding. Viscose, renowned for its superior draping qualities, may provide a cooling effect. Being a lightweight fabric, it facilitates the quick dissipation of body heat.

In contrast, the temperature regulation properties of cotton hinges mainly on the weaving method. Lightweight cotton fabrics may surpass viscose in providing a cooler experience. However, heavyweight cotton does not exhibit the same breathability or coolness as viscose.

Bedding made from bamboo-derived viscose may provide a cooler feel than its cotton counterparts, owing to bamboo’s inherent property of regulating body heat. Nevertheless, this does not imply that viscose bamboo is universally more comfortable than cotton bed sheets. The ability to weave cotton in diverse ways offers a wide range of comfort and coolness options, highlighting the importance of individual preferences when choosing the final material.

Is Cotton or Viscose Better?

Unveiling the subtle nuances between cotton and viscose is integral to making an informed choice. Some people might prefer natural fibres over synthetic or semi-synthetic variants, and evidence supports the merits of this preference.

With its soft and robust nature, cotton outperforms viscose on several fronts. Its versatility allows it to be woven in numerous ways, and it comes with the added benefit of easy laundering and dyeing. Despite viscose‘s strengths, such as wrinkle resistance and superior draping, its delicate nature can pose challenges.

Cotton tends to offer a better overall experience when it comes to wearability. The texture and durability of cotton, paired with its ease of care, often make it a more desirable choice, especially for those venturing into the great outdoors. Understanding these differences can help consumers make decisions that align with their specific needs.

How To Wash Gore-Tex?

June 8, 2023 by Furqan Javed

In pursuit of outdoor exploits, adventurous individuals rely on waterproof, breathable gear such as GORE-TEX jackets, ski pants, bibs, and gloves. These pieces of equipment withstand various weather conditions, from traversing bustling city streets on a bicycle to cross-country skiing in the biting chill of winter and hiking through the breathtaking vistas of national parks.

Gore-Tex Coat
Gore-Tex Coat – © Patrick Hendry, Unsplash

Curiosity may arise regarding the functionality of waterproof gear and how it maintains dryness. Key players in this industry, including eVent, NeoShell, and GORE-TEX, have tackled this challenge by implementing a durable water-repellent (DWR) coating on their outerwear. This sophisticated coating enables water to bead up and roll off instead of being absorbed. Thereby preserving the dryness of the clothing underneath. This mechanism proves effective even during adverse weather conditions. This ensures that the wearer stays dry and comfortable, be it on a rainy day or amidst a snowfall.

Washing GORE-TEX gear, while requiring some attention, is straightforward. Before washing, fasten all zippers and closures to prevent potential damage. Use a small amount of liquid detergent without fabric softener, which can hinder the DWR coating’s effectiveness. Washing should be carried out at 40 degrees Celsius (around 104 degrees Fahrenheit) on a gentle cycle.

Post-wash, it is best to air dry the gear or tumble dry it on a warm, gentle cycle. This careful washing process will help maintain the DWR coating’s effectiveness and longevity, ensuring that the GORE-TEX gear continues to perform at its peak in all adventurous pursuits.

A step-by-step guide to washing Gore-Tex

In the dynamic world of outdoor adventures, maintaining GORE-TEX gear in pristine condition involves not just choosing the right washing materials and technique but also considering the unique specifications of each piece. Paying attention to these nuances ensures that this weather-resistant equipment continues to provide optimal performance during adrenaline-pumping escapades, regardless of what Mother Nature has in store.

Crucial to the cleaning process is a diligent check of the care label on the gear. This often-overlooked detail offers valuable instructions about washing the material that can greatly affect its durability and functionality over time. Missteps during washing can potentially damage the GORE-TEX technology, hence the importance of always referring to the care label.

The design elements of the gear, including trimmings like a leather collar, warrant special attention. Different materials may demand alternative cleaning methods, and careful examination can help identify such specifications, thereby preserving the overall aesthetic and function of the jacket.

Pre-wash preparation is equally vital. Ensuring all pockets are void of contents prevents potential damage both to the gear and to the washing machine. Concurrently, all zips should be fastened, and any flaps or straps should be secured. These steps contribute to the effective cleaning of the gear and safeguard against unnecessary wear and tear during the wash cycle.

The fusion of these essential steps in washing GORE-TEX gear translates into the consistent performance of these critical pieces of outdoor equipment, enabling adventurers to focus solely on the thrill of the pursuit, with the confidence that their gear is ready for whatever comes their way.

Washing

Secure every zip – the front, pockets, and pit zips – meticulously to commence the cleaning odyssey of your rugged GORE-TEX gear. Tuck any rogue flaps or straps firmly away to secure the garment’s intricate integrity.

Moving onto the second phase of the cleaning process, your trusted machine washer will be your ally. Bathe your GORE-TEX attire in warm water, not exceeding 105°F/40°C. A modest quantity of liquid detergent will suffice to expel the dirt. Caution, however, should be exercised against powder detergents, fabric softeners, stain removers, and bleach – they are ill-suited for this journey. Furthermore, avoid washing your gear with heavily soiled clothing, which could compromise the outcome.

Particularly designed for this quest, technical fabric cleaners can be a worthy companion, mainly due to their absence of performance-disrupting additives. A thorough double rinse will ensure your garment is entirely free of detergent traces, leaving it refreshed and ready for your next outdoor adventure.

Drying

Begin the rejuvenation process of your trusted GORE-TEX garment by letting it spin in a gentle tumble dryer cycle. Alternatively, opt for a tranquil line drying under nature’s breath. However, exercise caution and ensure your gear is not subjected to the ruthless heat of high temperatures.

Once the garment is dried, it is time for the second act – the reactivation of the durable water-repellent (DWR) treatment. An additional 20 minutes in the tumble dryer at a medium heat setting should breathe life back into the DWR, ensuring your gear stands ready to repel the unpredictable elements of the outdoors.

When a tumble dryer is absent, or the care instructions dictate a different approach, a warm iron could serve as a noble substitute. Before ironing, swathe your garment with a thin towel or cloth, ensuring a protective barrier between the iron and the garment. The iron should be set on a steam-free, warm setting, not hot, to revive the DWR treatment gently.

Observance of this step, whenever the water repellency seems to wane, will ensure the garment maintains its performance. Whether opting for line drying or a gentle tumble drying cycle, always ensure to revisit the garment care instructions, as they remain the trusted guide to your GORE-TEX garment’s longevity.

Re-applying

Keeping outdoor gear in prime condition is an integral part of any outdoor enthusiast’s routine. Among the top gear that requires careful maintenance is GORE-TEX. The way that Gore-Tex is washed can be an uncomplicated process that begins with determining whether water is beading and running off after a Gore-Tex wash. If it isn’t, this is a sign that the durable water repellent (DWR) requires reapplication.

The choice of DWR product is left to the individual, and options include either a pump spray or a wash-in product. Applying the chosen product according to its instructions is the first step in restoring the water-repellent properties of the GORE-TEX gear. After the application, the DWR treatment needs to be activated. There are two main methods of achieving this. The first method is tumble-drying the GORE-TEX garment for approximately 20 minutes. However, if tumble-drying is not an option, the alternate method is ironing the garment in a gentle setting (warm, with no steam). During this process, a towel or cloth should be placed between the garment and the iron to prevent damage.

However, care must be taken to avoid applying DWR to certain types of GORE‑TEX products. Those with a persistent beading surface, such as GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ garments, should not undergo this treatment and instead should follow their special care instructions. This careful consideration ensures that the GORE-TEX items retain their unique properties and continue to provide the protection and durability for which they are so renowned.

Special Care – Persistent beading surfaces redefine Gore-Tex garments

GORE-TEX Raincoat – © Caspar Rae, Unsplash

The care process for GORE‑TEX garments with persistent beading surfaces, such as GORE-TEX SHAKEDRY™ garments. This diverges slightly from the general washing procedure. These unique garments have the GORE-TEX membrane as their outer layer, thus obviating the need for a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment.

Perform the washing cycle delicately for these particular items. Machine wash the garments at a moderate temperature of 105°F/40°C and maintain the integrity of the material by using the gentlest cycle possible.

Unlike conventional fabrics, these GORE-TEX products should not be subjected to dry cleaning. The harsh chemicals used in this process could potentially damage the GORE-TEX membrane.

Similarly, tumble drying and ironing are to be avoided. The intense heat generated by these processes could compromise the structure of the membrane and impair its water-repellent qualities.

Additionally, it’s vital not to use bleach on these garments. This strong agent can also harm the membrane and degrade the garment’s performance.

Lastly, the DWR treatment is not necessary for these particular GORE‑TEX garments. As their outer layer is the GORE-TEX membrane itself, they inherently possess enduring water repellency without needing additional treatments. This unique cleaning procedure ensures the longevity and optimal performance of these high-tech garments, allowing adventurers to focus on the great outdoors rather than on gear maintenance.

Gore-Tex Stain Removal

Maintaining the pristine look of GORE-TEX outerwear often involves dealing with stains. Fortunately, addressing these stains doesn’t require a different detergent from the one used for general laundering. The preferred detergent – as detailed previously – should be rubbed directly into the stained area as a pre-treatment.

Once the detergent has been applied to the stain. The garment should be subjected to a prewash cycle in the washing machine. This extra step helps to break down the stain before the main wash. Thereby increasing the chances of complete stain removal. In the absence of a prewash cycle on the washing machine. An alternative method is to presoak the garment after applying the detergent to the stain. This involves soaking the garment in water before running it through the regular wash cycle.

This meticulous stain treatment technique ensures that even the toughest outdoor adventures don’t leave a lasting mark on GORE-TEX garments. Thus preserving the aesthetic appeal of the outerwear and extending its lifespan. This enables nature enthusiasts to continue sporting their GORE-TEX gear in its best condition.

Gore-Tex Durable Water-Repellent (DWR) Coatings

What is Durable Water-Repellent (DWR) Coatings?

GORE-TEX outerwear, akin to most rainwear, is engineered with a Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish on its outer surface. This innovative finish provides the garment with unique properties that enhance the wearer’s comfort during outdoor activities. The DWR finish causes water to bead up and effortlessly roll off the garment, effectively repelling external moisture.

This phenomenon is crucial as it clears the fabric surface, allowing sweat and body heat to pass unhindered from inside the garment. By facilitating breathability, this process aids in maintaining a comfortable body temperature, even during strenuous outdoor activities.

Simultaneously, the DWR finish ensures that the fabric surface remains relatively dry. This aspect is essential as it helps to keep the outerwear lightweight. A drier surface avoids the addition of water weight, allowing for ease of movement and enhancing the wearer’s comfort level.

Hence, the DWR finish not only contributes to the impressive water repellency of GORE-TEX outerwear but also significantly enhances its comfort and performance, making it an ideal choice for those who dare to brave the elements.

Resurrecting DWR through the process of laundering

Over time, GORE-TEX outerwear can accumulate dirt and various residues. This buildup can impact the performance of the garment’s Durable Water Repellent (DWR) finish. When such a situation arises, The signature water-beading property of the fabric is compromised, and the fabric may even begin to absorb some water. However, it is important to remember that even under these circumstances. The moisture will not penetrate the GORE-TEX barrier beneath the outer fabric and reach the skin.

To restore the water-repellent properties of the fabric, it is recommended to launder the GORE-TEX outerwear following the laundry instructions provided at the beginning of the article. Of particular importance is the fourth step, which outlines the necessity of an additional drying or ironing session. This crucial step reactivates the DWR finish, allowing the garment to regain its water-beading ability.

Adherence to these guidelines can restore the garment’s original factory-applied DWR ‘mojo’, ensuring the water beads on the outer surface as long as the original water-repellent treatment is present. By doing so, the continued performance and longevity of the GORE-TEX outerwear are ensured, keeping the adventurous spirit protected and dry under any weather conditions.

Revitalizing DWR through replenishment

While GORE-TEX outerwear is designed for durability and robustness, it’s important to note that no water-repellent treatment is truly permanent. The factory-applied Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatments can eventually wear off, particularly in high-wear areas such as cuffs and collars. Environmental factors like rocky terrains and brush can accelerate this depletion.

Over time, the original repellent finish will diminish, requiring the application of a spray-on or wash-in water-repellency treatment. These treatments can be repeated as necessary over the lifespan of the garment, effectively replenishing the ‘bald spots’ where the original DWR has worn away.

Following the manufacturer’s instructions for the new DWR application is crucial. This often entails a pre-laundering stage with an additive-free detergent before applying the DWR treatment. Complete this process and then remember to reactivate the remaining factory-applied DWR finish. Achieve this by placing the garment in a dryer for an additional 20 minutes. Use the warm-iron method previously described instead if the garment care instructions recommend hanging drying.

This consistent maintenance routine helps restore and maintain the water-repellency of GORE-TEX outerwear, ensuring that it continues to provide comfort and protection through many outdoor adventures.

Gore-Tex coat
Gore-Tex coat – © Shilo Labelle, Unsplash

FAQ – Frequently Asked Questions for Gore-Tex

Is it possible to machine wash Gore-Tex garments?

Machine-washable GORE-TEX items require special care to maintain their performance and longevity. When laundering these items, it is recommended to use a mild detergent along with a gentle cycle and cold water. This is because hot water has the potential to degrade the waterproof coating on the items, impairing their water-repellent properties.

However, when there may be uncertainty about the washing method, hand washing is often the safest choice. This process involves using a mild detergent and lukewarm water to cleanse the GORE-TEX items gently. Take such precautions to assure the longevity and performance of these crucial pieces of outdoor gear, ensuring they continue to provide reliable protection in even the most challenging outdoor environments.

Is it safe to expose Gore-Tex fabric to salt water?

When it comes to venturing into saltwater environments, the robustness of GORE-TEX fabric shines through. Saltwater poses no threat to the fabric’s integrity, breathability, or overall performance. It does not contaminate the fabric, clog its pores, diminish its breathability, or cause any harm. This knowledge allows adventurers to embark on sailing, paddling, and cruising activities with unwavering confidence in their GORE-TEX gear.
Interestingly, salt is a desiccant, meaning it can attract moisture. Rinse in fresh water to prevent the accumulation of salt on outerwear, which could potentially attract water and affect its performance. It’s all that’s required. Regular rinsing helps remove any salt residue, ensuring the outerwear remains clean and free from any potential issues.

In situations where fresh water supplies may be limited, there is no need to worry. Even a rinse in seawater can effectively reduce heavy salt accumulations. With seawater containing approximately 3% salt, such a rinse can prevent excessive build-up and maintain the functionality of the GORE-TEX fabric.

With this understanding, outdoor enthusiasts can fully embrace their saltwater adventures, confident in the knowledge that their GORE-TEX gear can withstand the elements while remaining reliable and durable.

Is dry cleaning suitable for Gore-Tex garments?

Navigating the complex terrain of outdoor garment care, particularly when dealing with high-tech fabrics like GORE-TEX, can often leave adventurers perplexed. Yet understanding the maintenance of these resilient garments is crucial. Particularly in instances where outerwear, engineered with GORE-TEX fabric, incorporates silk or wool, the associated care intricacies increase. These garments typically come with instructions that endorse dry-cleaning as the primary mode of maintenance—a strategy designed to protect the fabric’s integrity and extend the life of the garment. Further optimizing this process for GORE-TEX items involves requesting a clear, distilled solvent rinse and a spray repellent during dry cleaning. These work together to cleanse the fabric without compromising its inherent protective features.

After dry-cleaning, the revival of the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) is a necessary step. Spend 20 minutes in a low-heat dryer to help the garment retain its shape and key features, and to rejuvenate the DWR. This ensure continued water-repellence. If the care instructions caution against dryer use, use a warm (not hot) iron on a no-steam setting as an alternative.The placement of a thin cloth between the iron and the garment serves as a protective buffer, minimizing potential heat damage. This not only revives the DWR but also eliminates any creases, preparing the garment for future outdoor escapades. The effort invested in caring for GORE-TEX garments is greater than regular clothing. However, it reaps the rewards in durability and superior performance, making the venture worthwhile for every outdoor enthusiast.

Are serious leaks possible with Gore-Tex garments?

Understanding the proper care of outdoor gear, specifically GORE-TEX outerwear. This requires an acute awareness of the garment’s performance under varying weather conditions. Signs of malfunction in these high-performance garments. Such as the presence of significant moisture inside the outfit after a brief encounter with rain. This could indicate a leak or a more serious issue. Such anomalies could stem from a myriad of issues. Ranging from a defective seam, an issue with the fabric itself, or even damage to the garment.

Is it safe to bleach Gore-Tex fabric?

In the pursuit of preserving the performance and vibrancy of GORE-TEX gear, diligent adherence to appropriate cleaning procedures is paramount. One commonly found household cleaning agent, chlorine bleach, poses a significant hazard to these technologically advanced fabrics. Its harsh chemical makeup has the potential to degrade the unique features that these fabrics boast, diminishing their exceptional performance over time.

Moreover, chlorine bleach can also be detrimental to the aesthetic aspects of the GORE-TEX material. This threatening to diminish the richness of its hues, and thereby undermining its striking visual appeal. Thus, to maintain the immaculate condition and functionality of GORE-TEX garments. It is of utmost importance to avoid any contact with chlorine bleach. This proactive approach to garment care ensures that GORE-TEX gear remains both visually appealing and optimally functional for many outdoor adventures to come.

Is it safe to iron Gore-Tex fabric?

Preserving the functionality and appearance of GORE-TEX gear involves a meticulous approach to maintenance. Which starts with a thorough examination of the manufacturer’s care instructions especially those of ironing. Guidelines often suggest the use of low temperatures. This represented by an ironing symbol with two dots, and advise against the use of steam. Place a cloth over the GORE-TEX garment during ironing to ensure that direct contact with the fabric does not occur. Recommended.

If tumble drying is not an option, iron the dry garment on a gentle setting—warm, but without steam. Place a protective layer, such as a towel or cloth, between the garment and the iron. This process reactivates the Durable Water Repellent (DWR) treatment on the garment’s outer fabric.Regular adherence to these maintenance guidelines contributes to the longevity. This continuous high performance of GORE-TEX outerwear, a key asset for every outdoor enthusiast.

Can I Use Both Powder And Liquid Detergents To Wash Gore-Tex Garments?

When it comes to preserving the robust performance of GORE-TEX gear, the choice of cleaning agent is of paramount importance. For optimal results, use liquid detergents over powder ones.This recommendation stems from the potential of liquid detergents to penetrate the fabric more efficiently. This ensures a thorough cleanse without leaving any residue that could impact the garment’s functionality. This nuanced aspect of garment care enhances the lifespan of GORE-TEX gear, ensuring that adventurers can rely on their attire’s performance in the face of outdoor challenges.

Dismanteam. Brothers in the Mountains

June 5, 2023 by Marek Disman

We are brothers from the diminutive mountains of the Czech Republic, in the heart of Europe. As identical twins, we grew up in a highly competitive environment, literally from the womb. In our youth, all it took was a moment’s hesitation, and one ate the food off the other’s plate or took the best seat.

When one set a record of thirty in a primary school pull-up competition, the other wrung out thirty-one. There was always someone to compete with and something to improve on.

Dismanteam
Dolomites – © Dismanteam

Such an environment shapes, sometimes even deforms a person in childhood and adolescence. Over the years, open minds and clear thinking have transformed competition into partnership and understanding, leaving us with a (hopefully) healthy level of competitiveness, drive and motivation for years of adventure to come.

We don’t compete with anyone in the mountains

As fathers, husbands and senior corporate executives, we approach the mountains with humility and no ambition to compare ourselves to anyone else.

Dismanteam - Gasherbrum II
Gasherbrum II – © Dismanteam

The ultimate challenge for us is to produce the maximum possible sporting performance we can and to safely recognize the limits of our current capabilities. And whenever we come close to the edge, we try to learn from those situations. For us, it’s not about climbing the world’s hardest routes. It’s about having the best time with the right people.

Long-term consistency in training is the key

As the time we have available usually allows us to favour shorter intensive trips to the mountains, we have adapted our year-round training regime accordingly to focus on maintaining a higher level of overall physical fitness and endurance with an emphasis on specific training according to the current season and our particular climbing goals.

Dismanteam
Iceland – © Dismanteam

Long-term consistency in our approach allows us to plan operatively and set off to the mountains for projects that would otherwise require lengthy preparation and allows us to join with various elite athletes for our endeavours.

Dismanteam – Some of our references so far

  • Alps, Dolomites, Hight Tatras – technical rock, ice and mixed climbing in short intensive trips
  • Other mountains and rocks around the world (Jordan, Namibia, Kyrgyzstan, Peru, Georgia and many other countries…) – multi-day intensive climbing trips across the globe
  • Gasherbrum II (8035m, Pakistan) – summiting without bottled oxygen and support in 9 days after reaching BC
  • Denali (6190 m, Alaska) – summiting in 5 days after reaching BC
  • Elbrus (5642 m, Russia) – 4 days from the Czech Republic to the summit and back to the Czech Republic
  • Aconcagua (6961 m, Argentina) – summiting in 4 days after reaching the Vacas Valley BC
  • Damavánd (5671 m, Iran) – summiting in 4 days after arrival to Iran, descending on skis
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