Archives for March 2023

Hannelore Schmatz, first woman to die on Everest

March 30, 2023 by endorfeen

In 1979, the indomitable Hannelore Schmatz etched her name in history as the fourth woman to conquer the mighty Mount Everest. Yet, her breathtaking ascent to the roof of the world would, regrettably, be her final adventure.

Passionate German mountaineer Hannelore Schmatz, accompanied by her equally adventurous husband, Gerhard, set out on the boldest expedition of their lives in 1979: to tame the towering Everest.

The intrepid couple triumphantly reached the summit, but their descent proved to be a perilous journey. Schmatz succumbed to the mountain’s wrath in an unfortunate turn of events. As a result, she became the first woman and German national to perish on its treacherous slopes.

For many years, Hannelore Schmatz’s mummified remains, unmistakable with her backpack pressed against her, served as a chilling reminder of the risks faced by those daring to challenge Everest’s unforgiving terrain.

Hannelore Schmatz, an Experienced Climber

Experienced Himalayan climbers

Venturing into the realm of the mighty Everest is a feat reserved for the most intrepid and seasoned climbers.

Hannelore Schmatz and her husband, Gerhard Schmatz, formed a formidable mountaineering partnership. Because of this, they were fueled by a desire to conquer the world’s most breathtaking summits.

Undaunted and resolute, the husband and wife team set their sights on the ultimate challenge—Mount Everest. They applied for a permit with the Nepalese authorities and embarked on the demanding preparations required to face this supreme test of fortitude.

They bagged a few summits before their Everest expedition

The pair summited a new peak each year to acclimate themselves to the harsh conditions at extreme altitudes. As time passed, the mountains they climbed grew taller. After a successful ascent of Lhotse, the fourth highest peak in the world, in June 1977, they received the thrilling news that their request to climb Everest had been granted.

Hannelore Schmatz had solid expedition preparations skills

Hannelore, praised by her husband for her exceptional ability to organize and procure expedition materials, meticulously managed their Everest adventure’s technical and logistical elements.

During the 1970s, obtaining suitable climbing equipment in Kathmandu was quite challenging.

The necessary gear for their three-month expedition to Everest’s peak had to be sourced from Europe. To accommodate this, Hannelore arranged for a warehouse in Nepal to store several tons of equipment essential for their journey.

Summiting Mount Everest

A group of experienced mountaineers

Hannelore, Gerhard, and Ray Genet were all accomplished mountaineers who had challenged themselves on some of the world’s highest peaks. Together, they embarked on a daring expedition to conquer Everest and return to base camp with their team.

Ray Genet, affectionately known as “Pirate,” was a Swiss-born American mountaineer and the pioneering guide on North America’s tallest peak, Alaska’s Denali (Mount McKinley).

In May 1973, after their successful Manaslu expedition, Gerhard and Hannelore applied for permission to climb Mt. Everest. When their request got accepted by the Nepal Ministry of Foreign Affairs, they started their preparations and training.

Over the next three years, they climbed numerous towering peaks to expand their high-altitude mountaineering skills and experience.

Gerhard, who led the expedition, was 50 years old at the time. He then earnt the distinction of being the oldest person to reach the summit of Everest.

The preparations

The moment they received permission for their Everest quest, Hannelore and Gerhard sprang into action, meticulously preparing for the monumental undertaking.

Hannelore’s exceptional skills in sourcing and transporting expedition materials were crucial during this time. Suitable food and equipment were unavailable in Kathmandu. Everything they and the Sherpas needed for the three-month expedition had to be purchased in Europe and shipped to Nepal.

Resourceful and determined, Hannelore penned hundreds of letters and secured a sponsored truck to transport the gear. With assistance, she spent months packing several tons of materials into 30 kg parcels in a warehouse. She was making sure they were ready for the porters to carry.

A strong team surrounded Hannelore Schmatz

In addition to equipment, the couple needed to assemble a top-notch team of climbers.

Joining Hannelore and Gerhard Schmatz were six other seasoned high-altitude mountaineers:

New Zealander Nick Banks
Swiss Hans von Känel
American Ray Genet—a trusted expert who had climbed with the Schmatzs before
German climbers Tilman Fischbach, Günter Fights, and Hermann Warth

Hannelore was the sole woman in the group.

By July 1979, all was set for the daring venture. The Schmatz’s Everest expedition consisted of a formidable team of eight climbers. They were supported by five Sherpas who guided them on their ambitious quest.

The 1979 expedition

During their ascent, the team scaled around 24,606 feet (7,500m) above sea level, venturing into the challenging terrain known as “the yellow band.”

To reach the South Col camp, they crossed the treacherous Geneva Spur. It is a sharp-edged ridge connecting Lhotse and Everest at an altitude of 26,200 feet (7,985m). On September 24, 1979, the group elected to establish their final high camp at the South Col.

However, an unexpected, multi-day blizzard forced the entire team to retreat to Camp III. Undeterred, they made another attempt to reach the South Col, this time splitting into two large groups. Hannelore Schmatz joined one group with fellow climbers and two Sherpas, while her husband Gerhard led the other.

After their gruelling three-day climb, Gerhard’s group reached the South Col ahead of the others. Then they set up camp for the night and awaited the arrival of their teammates.

Arriving at the South Col signified a crucial milestone for the team. Travelling in groups of three through the unforgiving mountain landscape, they were now on the brink of the final phase of their ascent to Everest’s summit.

While Hannelore Schmatz’s group continued their trek to the South Col, Gerhard’s team commenced their hike towards the peak early on the morning of October 1, 1979.

Reaching the summit

By 2 p.m., Gerhard’s group had reached the south summit of Mount Everest. At 50 years old, Gerhard Schmatz etched his name in the annals of mountaineering history. He became the oldest person to stand atop the world’s highest peak.

Gerhard observed the perilous conditions spanning from the southern summit to the peak as the group celebrated their triumph. Recognizing the risks, Gerhard’s team swiftly began their descent, facing the same obstacles that had challenged them during the climb.

Upon reaching the South Col camp at 7 p.m. that evening, they found Hannelore’s group—having arrived around the time Gerhard had summited Everest—already preparing their camp for their own ascent to the peak.

Gerhard and his teammates cautioned Hannelore and the others about the treacherous snow and ice conditions. As a result, they urged them to reconsider their climb. However, Hannelore’s determination was unwavering, as her husband described her as “indignant,” resolute in her quest to conquer the mighty Everest.

The Tragic Demise of Hannelore Schmatz

Weary from their arduous ascent, Hannelore Schmatz and another climber found themselves trapped by darkness at 8,300 meters (27,200 feet) just below Everest’s summit. Despite the Sherpas’ insistence that they descend, both Hannelore and American climber Ray Genet chose to rest and never rose again. Hannelore became the first woman to perish on Everest’s upper slopes.

Hannelore successfully reaches the summit

As the first light of day broke, Hannelore Schmatz and her group began their final ascent to the summit of Mount Everest, starting from the South Col point. In the meantime, her husband, Gerhard, began his descent towards Camp III as the weather conditions took a turn for the worse.

As the day progressed, news reached Gerhard via walkie-talkie that his wife and her team had successfully reached the summit of Everest. Hannelore Schmatz had become the fourth woman in history to stand atop the world’s highest peak, marking an impressive achievement for the seasoned mountaineer.

A difficult descent

Tragically, Hannelore’s descent proved perilous. According to her group’s surviving members, Hannelore and Ray Genet were exhausted despite being strong climbers. As night fell, they decided to bivouac at 28,000 feet (8,500 m), disregarding their Sherpa guides’ advice to continue moving.

Hannelore and Genet, determined to stop and set up a bivouac camp (a sheltered outcropping), faced strong opposition from Sherpas Sungdare and Ang Jangbu. They were in the midst of the notorious Death Zone, where perilous conditions leave climbers extremely vulnerable. The Sherpas urged them to press on and make it back to the safer base camp further down the mountain.

An unforgiving zone

Tragically, Ray Genet succumbed to the elements that night. Distraught but determined, Hannelore and the two Sherpas resolved to continue their descent.

However, the unforgiving climate had already taken its toll on Hannelore. At 27,200 feet (8,300 m), an exhausted Schmatz sat down, called for water, and passed away. Sungdare Sherpa, one of the guides, remained with her body, ultimately losing most of his fingers and toes to frostbite.

In the aftermath of this tragedy, Hannelore Schmatz became the first woman and the first German to die on Everest’s treacherous slopes.

Schmatz’s Remains: A Chilling Warning for Fellow Climbers

Ray Genet’s body vanished and has never been found. In contrast, Hannelore Schmatz’s remains were visible for years to those daring to summit Everest via the southern route. Her body, frozen in a seated position, became a macabre landmark just 100 meters above Camp IV. The extreme cold and snow horrifically mummified her remains, with her eyes open and hair blowing in the wind.

Hannelore’s death garnered notoriety among climbers, particularly due to the state of her body, which served as a chilling reminder of Everest’s unforgiving nature. Clad in her climbing gear and clothing, her seemingly peaceful pose led other climbers to refer to her as the “German Woman.”

Norwegian mountaineer and expedition leader Arne Næss Jr., who successfully summited Everest in 1985, recounted his haunting encounter with Hannelore Schmatz’s corpse: the haunting presence of Hannelore Schmatz’s corpse, sitting as if resting above Camp IV, serves as a chilling reminder of the mountain’s unforgiving conditions. Her eyes seem to follow climbers as they pass, reinforcing that they are at the mercy of Everest’s harsh environment.

In 1984, a Sherpa and a Nepalese police inspector attempted to recover Hannelore Schmatz’s body, but tragically, both men fell to their deaths during the effort. Eventually, the mountain claimed Hannelore for good. A powerful gust of wind pushed her body, causing it to tumble over the Kangshung Face, where it disappeared from sight, forever lost to the merciless elements of Mount Everest.

Hannelore Schmatz, a sombre reminder of the perils mountaineers face

Hannelore Schmatz is not the only one on the mountain

Before it disappeared, Hannelore Schmatz’s body was a chilling reminder in the infamous Death Zone, where climbers contend with dangerously thin oxygen levels above 24,000 feet. Many bodies are scattered across Mount Everest, many resting within the perilous Death Zone.

Despite the snow and ice, Everest’s low relative humidity helps preserve these bodies, which now serve as stark warnings to other climbers. Among the most renowned of these bodies—apart from Hannelore’s—is that of George Mallory, who tried to reach the summit in 1924. Climbers stumbled upon his body 75 years later, in 1999.

Throughout the years, Everest has claimed the lives of an estimated 280 climbers. Until 2007, one in every ten adventurers who braved the world’s highest peak never returned to share their tale. The death rate has risen since 2007, exacerbated by an increase in the number of summit attempts.

The general causes of death on Everest

Fatigue is indeed a common cause of death on Mount Everest. Climbers may become too exhausted from the physical strain, lack of oxygen, or excessive energy expenditure to make their way back down the mountain after reaching the summit.

This fatigue can lead to a lack of coordination, confusion, and incoherence. In some cases, the brain may even bleed internally, exacerbating the situation.

Exhaustion and possibly confusion contributed to Hannelore Schmatz’s tragic death. Despite her experience, she chose to rest instead of continuing to the base camp. The decision proved fatal. In the unforgiving Death Zone above 24,000 feet, the mountain ultimately prevails if climbers are too weak to carry on.

Conclusion

For years, Schmatz’s mummified corpse remained visible to climbers on the southern route, a chilling testament to the harsh conditions and the extreme risks involved in scaling the mountain. Her frozen body, sitting against her backpack with eyes open and hair blowing in the wind, became a haunting landmark and a stark warning for those who dared to challenge the mighty Everest.

Although her body eventually disappeared, tumbling over the side of the Kangshung Face, the memory of Hannelore Schmatz’s fate lingers in the minds of climbers and adventure enthusiasts. Her story underscores the importance of respecting the mountain. Understanding one’s limits and making well-informed decisions while navigating the treacherous Death Zone above 24,000 feet (7,500m).

In the end, Hannelore Schmatz’s legacy is a potent reminder of the extreme challenges and potential consequences faced by those who pursue their dreams of conquering Mount Everest.

Defying Gravity: The Inspiring Journey of Brette Harrington

March 29, 2023 by endorfeen

Hailing from Lake Tahoe, California, born in 1992, Brette Harrington has carved a name for herself as a distinguished professional rock climber and alpinist. Currently residing in British Columbia, Canada, her unwavering passion for the mountains has led her to chase her dreams of ascending remote big walls and forging new paths. Consequently, Brette has pioneered first ascents in Canada, the United States, and Patagonia. She is fueled by a spirit of adventure and innovation that continually propels her to climb to new heights.

Her impressive accomplishments and dedication to the sport earned Brette a place in the 2021 documentary film The Alpinist. There, she appeared alongside her late partner, Marc-André Leclerc.

Brette’s accolades include the first free solo of the 760-meter (2,500-foot) Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia, her trailblazing work in developing new alpine climbing routes, and her starring role in Brette, a short film showcased in the Reel Rock Film Tour.

With an unrelenting drive to hone her climbing expertise, Brette aspires to conceive increasingly demanding and captivating routes in her pursuit of mountaineering perfection.

Early life and introduction to climbing

The daughter of two avid skiers, Brette Harrington, grew up amidst the snowy landscape of Lake Tahoe. Embarking on her skiing journey at just two years old, she went on to compete in slalom skiing from the age of five. During her teenage years, she attended Holderness School, a boarding school nestled beside the White Mountains of New Hampshire. While training in slopestyle skiing during high school, Harrington’s curiosity for rock climbing was piqued, leading her to join the school’s club.

Harrington’s rock climbing pursuits revolved around moderate outdoor climbing routes at renowned New Hampshire spots such as Rumney, Cathedral Ledges, and White Horse. The club refrained from participating in climbing competitions, as its members found climbing to be “intrinsically special,” embracing its challenges for personal fulfilment.

Brette Harrington climbs in Makatea, French Polynesia // Elliott Bernhagen / Red Bull Content Pool

Upon relocating to Vancouver, Canada, to attend the University of British Columbia, Harrington initially continued her slopestyle skiing endeavours. However, a series of severe injuries, including a broken neck at 20, forced her to reconsider her focus. Consequently, Harrington shifted her attention to backcountry ski touring and climbing in and around Squamish, British Columbia.

An impressive climbing career so far

Brette Harrington has established herself as a skilled traditional climber, conquering routes such as Grand Illusion (5.13c) in Lake Tahoe on Sugarloaf, and The Free Muir (5.13c), in Yosemite California, on El Capitan. Her expertise in multi-pitch technique and talent for developing new lines have garnered recognition and admiration within the climbing community.

Brette Harrington’s Chiaro di Luna

Upon completing her studies in December 2014, Brette embarked on her maiden journey to Patagonia. In February 2015, at the young age of 23, she catapulted into climbing stardom by achieving the first-ever free solo of the 760-meter 5.11a route Chiaro de Luna, in the Fitz Roy Massif, on Saint Exupery.

Brette climbed the route’s 20 pitches in just three hours after a single ascent with her late partner, Marc-André Leclerc. This feat made her the first woman to solo any route on the Fitz Roy Massif. It also brought her international acclaim as a climber.

Though Alex Huber had previously ascended the route in 2011, Brette became the first climber, irrespective of gender, to conquer it without the use of any equipment or protection. This extraordinary feat has been ranked among history’s top ten most legendary free solos.

According to fellow free soloist Austin Howell, Brette’s accomplishment is undoubtedly one of the most impressive free solos to date, particularly noteworthy because it is one of the rare instances of a free solo being completed on a large mountain in Patagonia.

Other notable first ascents

Beginning around 2013, Brette Harrington and her partner, the late Marc-André Leclerc, embarked on a series of explorations and first ascents in the mountains of western Canada.

Harrington noted, “Many climbs around our home remain unexplored.” In 2014, the pair completed the first ascent of Straight No Chaser. It’s a 1500m route (5.11/A1) in Canada’s Waddington Range. In 2016, Harrington, Leclerc, and Johnson achieved the first ascent of the Northwest Turret (5.13a, A2) on Baffin Island’s Great Sail Peak.

In May 2018, Harrington and mountaineer Rose Pearson established Life Compass. This new route on Mount Blane’s west face is in the Canadian Rockies. It is lauded as “a rare large-scale, high-grade climb established by an all-women team.”

In April 2019, Harrington teamed up with Ines Papert and Luka Lindič. They completed the first ascent of The Sound of Silence on Mt. Fay’s East Face in Alberta’s Rockies. The trio finished the 1100m route quickly and lightly, spending just one night 75m below the summit.

Other notable climbs

In summer 2016, Brette Harrington, Marc-André Leclerc, and Joshua Lavigne went to Baffin Island’s eastern fjords. They spent thirty days there. They created two new lines on Great Sail Peak. One was Northwest Turret (5.13a A2, 22 pitches). The other was the West Buttress of Great Sail Peak (5.12 C1).

Later that year, Brette and Leclerc worked on another project for eight days. They created Hidden Dragon (5.12b, 11 pitches) on the Chinese Puzzle Wall in Nesakwatch River Valley, British Columbia. The next year, they set up Aurorophobia (5.13+) in Wiaparous River Valley, Alberta.

In February 2017, Brette Harrington and Mayan Smith-Gobat embarked on an ambitious Patagonian project, aiming to complete the first free ascent of the formidable big wall route, Riders of the Storm, on the Central Paine Tower.

During this 2017 expedition, Brette and Mayan confronted the challenging elements of the Riders on the Storm route. Although they made progress on some crucial crux pitches, the climbers were compelled to abandon their summit attempt due to unfavourable weather conditions. Adapting to the circumstances, Brette recounted, “We had to employ every technique in our arsenal to navigate the ice-covered and often run-out sections. Our goal shifted to simply completing the first half of ‘Riders on the Storm’ using any possible style.”

In June 2018, Brette ventured to Alaska with Swiss alpinist Caro North, establishing two routes and a ski descent. The duo had previously climbed together in the U.S. and Patagonia. Their accomplishments included a 500-meter 5.10b M5+ route on Southern Duke Tower in the Juneau Ice Field and a five-pitch 5.10+ on the west face of the Taku Towers.

A few months later, Brette returned to Juneau with Gabe Hayden to make the first ascent of a line she had spotted during her June trip with North on the West Face of the Devil’s Paw. The pair named the 1300-meter 5.11a route Shaa Téix’i, meaning Heart of the Mountain.

Scaling Winter Peaks: Brette Harrington’s Impressive Climbs in British Columbia

Brette Harrington’s winter climbing prowess is equally as impressive as her rock climbing achievements. Together with Marc-André Leclerc, they accomplished numerous challenging ascents in British Columbia. They include the first winter ascent of Ledge Mountain’s north face via the Walter/Zenger summer line. In early February 2018, Brette participated in the second ascent of The Theft (M7 WI6+, 240m) in the Bridge River area, alongside Steve Janes.

In the same month, Brette completed her winter project by leading every pitch during a four-day first ascent of Jupiter Shift, a 200-meter M5+ on the north face of Station-D, near Mount Slesse in British Columbia, once again partnering with Leclerc.

Brette Harrington’s Award and press coverage

Brette Harrington’s remarkable achievements in crack and alpine climbing have earned her recognition as one of the world’s leading climbers, as noted by Gripped Magazine in 2016. Her skill in managing physical and emotional control during tough climbs has won fans. Her climbing spirit is “burning bright,” and her joy is evident like a dazzling firecracker.

In 2016, Harrington was the focus of a Reel Rock Film Tour short film titled Brette. The film captured her first year of full-time climbing, showcasing her potential to become a climbing legend in the footsteps of Steph Davis.

Forbes Magazine recognized Harrington as a top woman in sports in 2017. In 2018, two of her routes were nominated for the esteemed Piolets d’Or prize. She completed Devil’s Paw with Gabe Hayden in Alaska and Mount Blane with Rose Pearson in the Canadian Rockies.

Harrington appeared in the 2021 film The Alpinist. It follows her late partner, Marc-André Leclerc’s climbing career. She agreed to more filming after the tragedy. This shows her strength and resilience as a climber and person.

Personal life

Brette Harrington’s partner, alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, died tragically in March 2018. He went missing on a Juneau, Alaska expedition. After his death, Harrington spent two years focusing on alpine routes. She used the first year to cope with her loss and find solace in the mountains.

Elliott Bernhagen / Red Bull Content Pool

To honor Leclerc, Harrington named her May 2018 Mount Blane route Life Compass. She dedicated it to her mentor, partner, and love. She also dedicated her 2019 first ascent of The Sound of Silence to Leclerc. Luka Lindič joined her, and Leclerc had been working on the route earlier.

It’s worth noting that Brette Harrington is not related to climber Emily Harrington.

Conclusion

Brette Harrington has established herself as a leading figure in the world of rock climbing and alpinism. She has been pushing boundaries and achieving impressive feats in her pursuit of mountaineering excellence. Her accomplishments span continents and include notable first ascents, free solo climbs, and groundbreaking expeditions.

Despite the tragic loss of her partner, Marc-André Leclerc, Harrington inspires and amazes the climbing community with her passion, perseverance, and dedication to the sport.

FWT23 Verbier – A Season Finale with a Twist: Freeride World Tour’s Last Stop in Verbier

March 28, 2023 by endorfeen

FWT23 YETI Xtreme Verbier – cancelled

Sadly, the highly-awaited FWT23 YETI Xtreme Verbier, the Freeride World Tour (FWT) finale, was canceled due to ongoing snow and wind. Over the past 48 hours, heavy snowfall and 135 km/h wind gusts created dangerous conditions on the Bec des Rosses. The location became unsuitable for the competition.

Since Saturday, all access to the site has been shut down due to the persistent wind and high risk of avalanches, with the danger level currently at four out of five. Mountain guides, in collaboration with the FWT founder and commissioner, surveyed the area from a helicopter yesterday. However, it wasn’t until this morning that safety teams could reach the venue.

Unfortunately, this morning’s safety work caused several layers of snow to release. Huge avalanches made the terrain unrideable, even for expert big mountain riders. Today was the only chance for the contest to happen. The weather forecast predicts more clouds and snow this afternoon and for the rest of the week. The Bec des Rosses will remain a serious danger for FWT athletes, leading to the event’s cancellation.

“Following this morning’s bombing on the Bec des Rosses, several large avalanches came down. The venue is therefore unusable for safety reasons, meaning the YETI Xtreme Verbier 2023 is canceled, and the world champion titles will be awarded according to the rankings after four events. We did everything possible with the challenging conditions, but Mother Nature has the final say, which we must respect.”
Nicolas Hale-Woods, FWT CEO

This marks only the second instance in the annals of FWT where the Xtreme Verbier has faced cancellation, with the previous occurrence in 2020 due to the COVID-19 pandemic.

This situation highlights that nature’s power determines events, and athlete safety comes before competition. Still, this season will be remembered for many reasons, including the outstanding performances of FWT’s rising stars.

A big congratulations to the first-time FWT23 world champions, and a special salute to all riders who impressed spectators with their creative freeriding this season.

FWT23 YETI Xtreme Verbier – the final results

Ski men – Valentin Rainer (AUT)

Valentin spent six years in FWT Junior and Challenger events before a breakthrough in 2022.

He didn’t make the cut previously but was requalified through the FWT Challenger series, achieving a notable victory this year.

His outstanding performance at Ordino Arcalís combined speed, perfect technique, and freestyle, earning him the win and top ranking. He secured a podium finish in Kicking Horse and placed fourth in Fieberbrunn, just missing a medal.

Ski women – Justine Dufour-Lapointe (CAN)

Her meteoric ascent characterizes Justine’s season to prominence in the freeride arena.

Having transitioned from moguls skiing – a discipline in which she holds two Olympic medals and numerous FIS World Cup podiums – she remarkably became the FWT World Champion in her debut season.

Her skiing technique seamlessly adapted to the demands of big mountain terrains, resulting in remarkable consistency throughout the season, including a victory in Andorra and a runner-up finish in Austria. Justine has reaffirmed her status as an exceptional athlete, with an unparalleled work ethic that has undoubtedly paid off.

Snowboard men – Ludovic Guillot-Diat (FRA)

Ludo’s vast big mountain experience and dedication resulted in his first FWT World Champion title. He joined the tour occasionally since 2013, earning several podiums and FWT Challenger series success.

This year, Ludo won his first FWT event at Ordino Arcalís, adding three more podiums and dominating his category. His consistency shows his hard work and persistence, contributing to this significant achievement in his remarkable freeriding career.

Snowboard women – Katie Anderson (CAN)

Katie demonstrated her prowess this season, securing three out of four wins in a remarkable fashion.

In her first FWT title win, she almost succeeded in 2021, finishing second with three podium finishes. Since 2018, Katie has earned many FWT Challenger series accomplishments, demonstrating her big mountain skills and leading to this season’s strong performance.

As the Freeride World Tour concludes a thrilling season filled with spectacular events and standout performances, four new World Champions emerge. Their names will be etched in history alongside a multitude of talented riders, commemorating their accomplishments in the FWT.

25 of the Best Climbing Movies in History

March 28, 2023 by Teddy Dondanville

If you are like me, then you enjoy consuming climbing media almost much as you enjoy climbing itself, especially climbing movies.

Reading trip reports and attending slide shows do a good job of scratching the climbing itch. But fewer things in this world capture the beauty and adventurous nature of climbing better than climbing movies that get your heart thumping and palms sweating.

So if you’ve been looking for a reason to watch a movie as you wait for the next good weather window for climbing, keep scrolling to check out our list of the 25 best climbing movies in history (in no particular order). Some are classic, some are corny– but all of them are worth watching at least once.

North Face (2010)

Director: Philipp Stolzl

Movie Length: 2 hours and 6 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: based on a non-fictional story, “North Face,” originally titled “Nordwand,” is a German drama film about a race to climb the most deadly rock face in the Alps– the North Face of the Eiger. Given that they are inspired by Nazi propaganda, two of Germany’s best alpinists quest to maker their country proud.

Sherpa (2015)

Director: Jennifer Peedom

Movie Length: 1 hour and 36 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: in 2014, filmmakers went to the Himalayan Range to make a film about the 2014 climbing season. Instead, they captured an iconic tragedy that would change the Everest climbing culture forever.

Rampage (1999)

Director: Big UP Productions

Movie Length: 1 hour and 16 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: two legendary North American rock climbers, Chris Sharma and Obe Carrion, embark on a two-month road trip across the Western United States in search of the country’s best boulders in iconic destinations such as Squamish, Castle Rock, Lake Tahoe, Priest Draw, Black Mountain, The Tramway, Humboldt, and even the X-Games.

Masters of Stone I (1991)

Director: Eric Perlman

Movie Length: 58 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: the first of six films, Masters of Stone I is a face-paced entertaining rock climbing film that documents ground-breaking ascents of world-class North American rock climbers such as Ron Kauk, Tony Yaniro, Dan Osman, John Bachar, Todd Skinner, Boone Speed, and others.

Cliffhanger (1993) – action climbing movie

Director: Renny Harlin

Movie Length: 1 hour and 53 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: while crossing an exposed edge, Gabe, played by Sylvester Stallon, watches his best friend plummet to the ground after a catastrophic equipment failure. Shameful and feeling responsible, Gabe moves far away to mourn. Then, Gabe is asked to return a year later to help rescue stranded people with a deadly secret.

Vertical Limit (2000)

Director: Martin Campbell

Movie Length: 2 hours and 4 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: Peter Garrett, an adrenaline junkie and young climber must embark on a treacherous rescue effort on K2– the world’s second-highest peak. During his rescue, Pete teams up with eccentric mountain man Montgomery Wick, the two of which must confront their own physical limitations and mother nature’s uncontrollable elements.

The Eiger Sanction (1975)

Director: Clint Eastwood

Movie Length: 2 hours and 9 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: Dr. Jonathan Hemlock, played by Cint Eastwood, is an art history professor who finances his hobbies by performing assassinations for a secret arm of the government. For his current mission, Hemlock joins a team of Russian climbers as they attempt to climb the Eiger. Meanwhile, during their climb, Helock must attempt to find out which team member is his target.

Torn (2021)

Director: Max Lowe

Movie Length: 1 hour and 32 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: Max Lowe, director of this National Geographic documentary and son of legendary North American mountaineer Alex Lowe, documents his father’s last climb that turned fatal. Years later, Lowe documents his family’s heart-wrenching journey back to where Alex perished. This amazing documentary is not just about documenting climbing history, it’s also a love story, and a story about a broken family trying to put themselves back together.

King Lines (2007)

Director: Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer

Movie Length: 1 hour and 4 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: as the producers of the mountain climbing masterpiece “First Ascent,” Lowell and Mortimer bring their audience another climber-centered film bent on documenting the extreme action and grandeur of modern rock climbing’s most impressive routes, also known as king lines. While focusing on iconic rock climber Chris Sharma, this film goes to wild places like Mallorca and the Mediterranean.

Hard Grit (1998)

Director: Richard Heap

Movie Length: 53 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: this film documents Englnad’s best rock climbers of the time as they express their mastery over the art form locally known as– hard grit, i.e., climbing on gritstone in the English Pennines. In his film, Heap follows legendary elite climbers such as Johnny Dawes and Neil Bently as they push the limits of hard and notoriously bold Britsh gritstone rock climbing.

Pretty Strong

Director: Julie Ellison, Leslie Hittmeier, and Colette McInerney

Movie Length: 1 hour and 15 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: female filmmakers document an all-female-identifying cast of climbers as they partake to carve out a space for themselves in the esoteric world of rock climbing. The film includes everything from 5.13 big walls in Yosemite to 5.14 sport climbs in Mexico and V14 boulders in Colorado. In addition, the climbers featured include Nina William, Katie Lambert, Daila Ojeda, Hazel Findlay, and more.

Progression (2009)

Director: Bret Lowell, Josh Lowell, and Cooper Roberts

Movie Length: 1 hour and 22 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: buried beneath every legendary progression in rock climbing is a story about perseverance and determination. From boulders to big walls and everything in between, “Progression” documents various elite climbers as they commit to groundbreaking climbing pursuits. Moreover, the film features a lights-out cast with characters like Tommy Caldwell, Johanna Ernst, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgenson, Adam Ondra, Paul Robinson, Matt Segal, Chris Sharma, Patxi Usobiaga, and Daniel Woods.

14 Peaks (2021), a climbing movie about a team of Nepalese

Director: Torquil Jones

Movie Length: 1 hour and 41 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: this film is a climbing documentary about Project Possible, a climbing endeavor devised by Nepali high-altitude mountaineer Nirmal Purja to climb Planet Earth’s 14 highest peaks ( called eight-thousanders) within seven months. Meanwhile, you are dazzled by the imagery of one-of-a-kind mountain landscapes and sucked into a heartwarming relationship between mother and son.

Valley Uprising (2014)

Director: Peter Mortimer, Josh Lowell, and Nick Rosen

Movie Length: 1 hour and 43 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: “Valley Uprising” is an entertaining and unforgettable story about the bold counter-culture of rock climbing in Yosemite National Park. It documents some of Yosemite’s most iconic first ascensionists and positions them within a larger storyline of a clash the struggle against laws and gravity. In addition, the film combines present-day interviews with legendary climbers and archival footage to tell a riveting story.

High Ground (2012)

Director: Michael Brown

Movie Length: 1 hour and 32 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: eleven veterans returning from Iraq and Afghanistan join together to form an expedition team tasked with summiting the 20,000-foot Himalayan peak Mount Lobuche. Altogether, with the famous blind adventurer Erik Weihenmayer and a team of Everest summiteers as their guides, the eleven veterans attempt to heal the personal emotional, and physical wounds the United States’ longest war inflicted upon them.

Reel Rock 7 (2012)

Director: Chris Alstrin, Jimmy Chin, and Paul Diffley

Movie Length: 2 hours and 48 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: the seventh rendition of Reel Rock features four of the biggest stories from the world of climbing. Each is told with heart, humour, and mind-ending action that will put you on the edge of your seat and make your palms sweat. It includes stories about the famous sport climb “La Dura Dura,” an ascent up Meru’s Shark’s Fin, the British crack climbing duo known as the “Wide Boyz, and an incredible link-up completed by Alex Honnold.

Jeff Lowe’s Metanoia (2014)

Director: Jim Aikman

Movie Length: 1 hour and 24 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: narrated by legendary North American writer Jon Krakauer, “Metanoia” traces the life and climbs of alpinist Jeff Lowe. In particular, Aiman’s film seeks to tell the story of one of Lowe’s proudest lines, a route up the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland that he called ‘Metanoia,’ a climb that changes his life forever.

The Alpinist (2021) – a climbing movie about a unique style

Director: Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen

Movie Length: 1 hour and 32 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: “The Alpinist” is another fantastic climbing film from veteran filmmaker Peter Mortimer that attempts to keep up with Marc-André Leclerc, a 23-year-old Canadian alpinist responsible for some of the boldest solo ascents in climbing history. Mortimer follows Leclerc around his Canadian stomping grounds and down to Patagonia, where Leclerc redefines what is possible in free solo mountaineering.

The Sharp End (2007)

Director: Peter Mortimer and Nick Rosen

Movie Length: 1 hour and 3 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: watching this film is like entering the danger zone long with the world’s best climbers as they push the limits of free soloing, high-ball bouldering, bold trad climbing, big-walling, wingsuit flying, high lining, and tower jumping. In addition, the cast of characters is mind-blowing, with appearances from Alex Honnold, Dean Potter, Steph Davis, Lisa Rands, Chris McNamara, Ammon McNeely, Renan Ozturk, Cedar Wright, and others.

180° South: Conquerors of the Useless (2010)

Director: Chris Malloy

Movie Length: 1 hour and 25 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: this film follows writer Jeff Johnson as he tells the story of the 1968 journey of two of his heroes, Yvon Chouinard and Doug Tompkins, to Patagonia. On his journey, there is a shipwreck, surfing, and a rare ascent of Cerro Corcovado. The film also attempts to highlight Chouinard and Tompkins’ uncontainable love for the Patagonian landscape.

Meru (2015)

Director: Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi

Movie Length: 1 hour and 30 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: “Meru” tells the story of three elite climbers, Conrad Anker, Jimmy Chin, and Renan Ozturk, as they endeavor to climb and document Mount Meru, one of planet earth’s most converted objectives in high-alpine Himalayan big-wall climbing. However, the trip is faced with seemingly impossible-to-overcome obstacles. Therefore, the team is faced with the decision of going down or believing in the impossible.

Touching the Void (2003)

Director: Kevin Macdonald

Movie Length: 1 hour and 46 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled: in 1985, two climbers, Joe Simpson and Simon Yates, set off to climb the west face of the previously unclimbed Siula Grande in the Peruvian Andes. After a successful first ascent, the pair runs into significant problems on the descent. “Touching the Void’ is a dramatic retelling of this story that makes your palms sweat, and your heart beat through your chest.

The Dawn Wall (2017)

Director: Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer

Movie Length: 1 hour and 40 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled. Renowned rock climb filmmakers Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer follow the pursuits of North American rock climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson. They attempt to free climb the seemingly impossible 3,000-foot rock face of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. Due to the extreme challenge of their objective, Caldwell and Jorgenson’s ascent becomes engraved in the history books of big wall free climbing.

Everest (2015), a intense climbing movie about the 1996 disaster

Director: Baltasar Kormákur

Movie Length: 2 hours and 1 minute

Summed Up, Not Spoiled. On a relatively calm morning in May 1996, an expedition team embarks on their final push to summit Mount Everest. They will face a violent storm that engulfs them, transforming their adventure into a nightmare of epic proportions. Challenged by the harshest conditions, the climbers endure against nearly impossible odds.

Free Solo (2018)

Director: Jimmy Chin and Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi

Movie Length: 1 hour and 40 minutes

Summed Up, Not Spoiled. The famous documentary duo Jimmy Chin and his wife and co-director Elizabeth Chai Vasarhelyi document Alex Honnold as he attempts to become the first person to free solo El Capitan in Yosemite National Park. All the while running in the background is a love story that grips your attention. Furthermore, this climbing documentary was heralded for its achievements in cinematography and amazing photography.

What is Trad Climbing?

March 25, 2023 by Teddy Dondanville

There are many styles of rock climbing– trad climbing is just one of them. Styles range from relatively low-commitment indoor gym climbing to massively risky objectives in the big mountains. Selecting a preferred style of rock climbing depends on what you want to learn and your relationship with risk.

Trad climbing fits the bill for those who enjoy learning about the subtleties of climbing gear, the nuances of climbing slower and more methodically, and being able to ascend a cliff or mountain with only the equipment attached to their harness when they leave the ground.

Sounds intriguing. Curious to learn more about trad climbing? Read on!

What Exactly is Trad Climbing and Where Does it Come From?

Trad climbing, which is short for traditional climbing, is a style that does not rely on fixed gear, like bolts, to protect a climb. Instead, traditional climbing relies on personally placed removable gear to protect the lead climber and build anchors.

After the lead climber finishes the pitch, the second climber, removes the protection as they climb the route. The protection gear can then be used again for the next pitch or another climb.

A Brief History of Trad Climbing

In many ways, traditional climbing is the evolution of aid climbing. Aid climbing is a style of climbing that relies on devices attached to fixed pieces of protection to make upward progress.

Many old aid routes have been free-climbed without aid gear due to improvements in modern trad gear. Specifically, because trad protection has improved– normalizing falling and allowing climbers to push the limits of the sport.

Until the mid-1980s, trad climbing was the dominant and most popular form of free climbing. However, since then, sport climbing and competition climbing, along with indoor climbing, have become more popular due to their fewer barriers to entry.

Despite the barriers to entry, the largest of which is purchasing and learning how to use trad climbing gear, traditional climbing continues to be one of the purest forms of climbing.

Trad Climbing Gear

Unlike sport climbing, trad climbing does not rely on protection bolts. Instead, climbers place their own protection into cracks in the wall. Then, they clip their rope to the piece of gear so it will catch them if they fall, so long as it’s properly placed and the rock quality is good.

Some trad routes may have the occasional bolt in otherwise unprotectable sections of rock, normally on faces of rock without cracks. Trad routes may also have relics from old aid ascents that have not been removed, such as pitons.

Generally speaking, there are two types of traditional climbing protection– passive and active protection.

A rock climber organizes their trad climbing equipment — Photo Courtesy of Patrick Hendry

Passive Protection

Passive climbing protection has no moving or mechanical parts. This category of gear includes stoppers and hexes (and tricams when placed in their passive orientation).

Passive protection like stoppers are placed into cracks like a chockstone. The placement quality will depend on the surface contact between the stopper and the rock and the rock quality. When properly placed and a climber falls onto passive gear, it wedges deeper into the rock, essentially becoming trapped, and arrests the fall.

Active Protection

On the other hand, active protection does have moving and mechanical parts. This category of gear includes camming devices.

Camming devices are placed into cracks by engaging the trigger. Pulling on the cam’s trigger activates the mechanism, making the cam smaller. After the cam is placed and the triggers are released, the cam expands into the crack to add security.

The quality of a cam placement depends on the surface contact of the cam’s lobes with the rock and the rock quality. When properly placed and called on, the cam expands further into the crack, gripping it and arresting the fall.

A cam is an example of an active piece of trad climbing protection — Photo Courtesy of Adam Mills

Other Pieces of Trad Climbing Equipment

Besides the passive and active pieces you need to protect a climb and build anchors, you’ll also need a selection of other critical pieces of trad gear.

Non-locking carabiners: utilized for non-critical linkages, like attaching gear to your harness.
Locking carabiners: utilized for critical linkages, such as the masterpoint of an anchor, belay device, or personal tethers.
Extendable quickdraws: also known as alpine quickdraws, extendable quickdraws are used for extending a placed protection piece and attaching the climbing rope.
Sewn slings: also known as runners, slings are sewn loops of solid material, most often Dyneema, that come in various lengths. They are helpful in many scenarios, such as building anchors and creating a rappel extension.
Accessory cord: also known as cordelette, accessory cord is vital for building anchors. Between 16 and 20 feet is recommended, with a diameter no smaller than 6mm.
Nut Tool: a nut tool is a specialized piece of equipment designed to assist you in removing stoppers.
Climbing helmet: wearing a climbing helmet protects you from falling overhead hazards, such as rock fall, and from hitting your head during a severe fall. Helmets can mitigate risk but do not make trad climbing safer.

Is Trad Climbing Safe?

Trad climbing can never be safe. Trad climbing can only be more or less risky. Mitigating risk while trad climbing is all about climbing within your ability, making conservative decisions, placing good gear, and building bomber anchors.

Climbers often assume that sport climbing and bouldering are “safer” forms of climbing than trad climbing. However, sport climbing, like all climbing styles, is inherently dangerous and unsafe.

With that being said, there tends to be more risk involved in trad climbing. Sparse opportunities to place gear, bad rock, incorrectly placed gear, and inadequate anchors each increase the inherent risk of trad climbing.

How To Get Into Traditional Climbing

The best way to get into trad climbing is slowly and methodically.

Before lead climbing, follow experienced climbers to learn about cleaning gear placements.
Refine your gear placing abilities in cracks you can access from the ground.
Similarly, master building anchors on the ground.
When it’s time to lead, climb well below your physical ability.
To learn to trust your gear, take practice falls on the gear you placed ( with a backup, of course).
Hire a guide or take courses to learn trad climbing best practices.

A rock climber wearing trad gear — Photo Courtesy of Patrick Hendry

What is Nylon? What are its environmental impacts?

March 23, 2023 by Louis Udeani

Nylon is the first completely synthetic polymer fibre in the world. Introduced by the DuPont Company in 1938, it was originally marketed to women in the form of nylon stockings. These stockings garnered commercial success because of their strength, durability, and flexibility.

During the Second World War, the US military discovered nylon as an alternative to silk, which was primarily used to produce their military gear. This wartime use of nylon and other plastics greatly popularised them as new materials for clothing during the 1900s.

In the late 1900s, crude oil became the main source of synthetic fibres such as nylon. This coincided with the growth of the petroleum industry in the United States. Consequently, the production of nylon has been linked to adverse environmental effects similar to those associated with fossil fuels. And this includes the climate crisis of greenhouse gas emissions and water pollution.

What is nylon fabric?

Nylon is a synthetic thermoplastic material. It is a petroleum product primarily used to create fibres, films, and moulds. It is a generic name for a family of synthetic polymers composed of polyamides. Its polymers can be mixed with various additives to achieve several property variations.

purple and green nylon fabrics — Photo by nikitabuida

Nylon can transform into fibres, filaments, bristles, or sheets through methods such as drawing, casting, or extrusion using spinnerets, either from a solution or a melted state. Textile manufacturers use these materials in their production of cordage, fabric, and yarn. Additionally, nylon can be moulded into various shapes or products. Its remarkable properties include high resistance to heat, chemicals, and wear. And they have multiple commercial applications in the textile, packaging, and automotive industries.

How is nylon fabric made?

In most cases, petrochemical monomers make up the primary constituent of nylon. These long chains of carbon-based molecules make up a polymer’s chemical building blocks. Diamine acid, sometimes called hexamethylenediamine (HMDA), is the most used monomer for nylon production.

spinning of nylon fibres — *Spinning of stretched nylon fibres.* Source: Grodno

The production process of nylon fabric breaks down into several stages:

Extraction of Diamine Acid or HMDA – The monomer, diamine acid or HMDA, is extracted from crude oil. Currently, the most used commercial process for HMDA manufacture is the hydrogenation of adiponitrile in ammonia.
Combining – The diamine acid combines with adipic acid through the process of condensation to obtain the Nylon 6,6 salt.
Heating – During this stage, the crystallised Nylon 6,6 salt heats up at about 240°C to turn into its molten form.
Extrusion – After heating, the molten substance undergoes extrusion through a spinneret. The spinneret is a cap or plate with a number of small holes. During extrusion, the spinneret forces the fibre-forming solution through the small holes.
Loading – After extrusion through the spinneret, the molten substance immediately hardens, and a machine loads the resulting fibres onto bobbins.
Stretching – The machine stretches the fibres to increase their strength and elasticity.
Drawing – Upon stretching, a device winds the fibres onto another spool through a technique called “drawing”. During this process, the polymer fibres form a parallel structure.
Spinning – After the drawing process, the textile machines spin the resulting fibres into garments or other forms of fibres. Sometimes, the machines spin the nylon fibres into fabrics on their own, but usually, they combine them with other fabrics to obtain mixed textiles.
Finishing – Finally, the manufacturers dye the fabric to produce the desired colour they want.

What is nylon used for?

Commercial use of nylon began with the production of polymer-bristled toothbrushes. Then women’s stockings followed. Textile manufacturers originally marketed the fabric as a substitute for silk stockings but, known for its lack of durability and exorbitant cost, silk could not compete with the advantages of nylon.

Nylon was mainly used in the textile industry, but its application has evolved beyond fabrics. Today, its applications include the following;

Clothing – Used for producing shirts, foundation garments, raincoats, underwear, lingerie, swimwear, cycle wear, etc.
Moulds and resins – The automobile industry widely uses nylon resins, particularly in the engine compartment. During the production of hair combs and mechanical parts, manufacturers use molded nylon to manufacture components such as machine screws, gaskets, gears, and other stress components previously cast in metal.
Food packaging – Manufacturers use nylon resins as a component in food packaging films that require an oxygen barrier. They also incorporate some terpolymers made from nylon in everyday packaging. Nylon also finds application in meat wrappings and sausage sheaths. Additionally, its high-temperature resistance makes it a valuable material for oven bags.
Filaments – Brush producers, especially toothbrush and string trimmer makers, primarily use nylon filaments. Fishing lines also utilize nylon as monofilaments. Furthermore, nylon’s diverse characteristics make it highly valuable in additive manufacturing, specifically in some grades of modelling 3D printers.

Where is nylon fabric produced?

The production of nylon started in the United States in the year 1938. Although other developed nations recognized the benefits of the fabric and started to produce it, the United States remained the primary producer until the 1980s.

In the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s, the global economy underwent a restructuring that caused many international corporations to shift their manufacturing bases to China. As a result, nylon fabric production operations moved to the East Asian country and other regional nations such as India, Pakistan, and Indonesia.

The United States still produces nylon fabric to some extent, but most of its production has shifted towards cotton. Although the manufacturing industry is experiencing a resurgence in the USA, it is improbable that nylon fabric production will return to the country. Today, China remains the biggest producer of nylon fabric in the world.

Nylon and the environment

Based on its ties with the extraction and use of fossil fuels, the production of nylon can incur negative environmental effects on the planet. The raw material used in producing this fabric is one of the primary causes of its potentially detrimental effects. Although the fabric can be made using other substances, most producers use crude oil as their source of hexamethylenediamine, which is the main constituent of most nylon fabrics. Scientists have well-established that the environment suffers harm from both acquiring and using fossil fuels such as petroleum as harvesting methods like drilling and fracking continue to cause lasting damage to ecosystems worldwide.

The production process also requires a significant amount of energy and generates several waste materials. During production, the cooling of nylon fabric fibres uses a large amount of water, which often results in micropollutants contaminating the surrounding hydrosphere.

Moreover, nylon fabric does not biodegrade because it is completely synthetic. While cotton and other fabrics may biodegrade within a matter of decades, polymer fabrics will persist in the environment for hundreds of years. Fortunately, some textile producers make this fabric recyclable, but not all waste management services recycle it.

So, it seems practically impossible to mitigate the negative environmental impact caused by nylon fabrics during the production stage. However, during the post-production stage, people can adopt a few measures to greatly reduce the detrimental footprint that nylon production leaves on the planet. Recycling and proper disposal of nylon fabrics are currently the only identifiable ways of making nylon production better for the environment. But it is crucial to note that nylon fabrics still cause microplastic water pollution and some still contain traces of toxic ingredients when used to manufacture finished products, depending on where and how they are made.

Doug Hansen, the “mailman” who conquered Everest

March 21, 2023 by Jeetendra Khatiwoda

Doug Hansen was an American climber and postal worker who died during the infamous 1996 Mount Everest disaster. Known as the “mailman” due to his profession, Hansen was part of Rob Hall’s Adventure Consultants team, which aimed to summit Everest during the 1996 climbing season. Unfortunately, the expedition turned disastrous due to a combination of factors such as poor decision-making, a fierce blizzard, and unexpected delays.

In 2015, Universal Studios distributed a commercially successful film ‘Everest’ starring Jason Clarke, John Hawkes, Keira Knightley, Jake Gyllenhaal, Michael Kelly, and others.

John Hawkes as Doug Hansen in ‘Everest.’ | Jasin Boland, UNIVERSAL

It went on to gross $203 million worldwide. Real events inspired the film. In the movie, John Hawkes played Doug Hansen, the mailman who conquered Everest.

Who was Doug Hansen?

Born in 1949 in Seattle, Washington, Doug Hansen grew up in poverty. Hansen had two jobs to meet his daily needs. He worked as a postal worker and as a driver. Growing up in poverty didn’t stop him from dreaming of conquering Mount Everest, the highest mountain on Earth.

Mount Rainier, which looms 59 miles southwest of Seattle, could have possibly inspired Hansen. As he grew up, he was more than determined to scale Everest. Doug Hansen, the ‘mailman’ who conquered the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest, is an ordinary man with an extraordinary feat.

Hansen’s story is one of determination, perseverance, and the triumph of the human spirit. Hansen attempted to summit Mount Everest in 1995 as a part of an expedition by Adventure Consultants led by Rob Hall, an accomplished New Zealand climber. He had to return back, just 300 meters short of the summit, due to bad weather.

Hansen couldn’t think of a second attempt as the fee to ascent Everest under Rob’s supervision was $65,000 per person. But, as Hall was fond of Doug, he offered a significant discount in fees to climb again in 1996. Doug was also inspired by schoolchildren in Kent, who had given him a small flag to plant at the top of Everest. He had also mortgaged his home to finance the climb.

1996 Adventure Consultants Expedition

The 1996 Adventure Consultants expedition was a commercial climbing expedition to Mount Everest led by Rob Hall. The expedition team consisted of several clients and experienced Sherpa climbers, including the mailman, Doug Hansen.

Before the expedition, Doug Hansen and his teammate spent several weeks acclimatizing and establishing camps at various points on the mountain. Hansen reached the summit of Mount Everest on the 10th of May 1996 with other members of Rob’s team. However, the team was caught in a severe storm with high winds and sub-zero temperatures on their descent.

Doug at the base of the Hillary Step on Mt. Everest | *Scott Fischer/Woodfin – From Into Thin Air, by Jon Krakauer*

The harsh conditions of the mountains made the rescue even more complicated. Eight climbers died on the mountain during the storm, including Hall and Hansen.

The 1996 expedition primarily involved a rivalry between Rob Hall’s Adventure Consultants and Scott Fischer’s Mountain Madness. Scott Fischer, a highly skilled American guide, joined forces with Hall to lead their respective clients to the summit of Everest. Fischer successfully reached the peak with his clients during this ascent.

Rob Hall established a 2 pm deadline for his clients to reach the summit in order to avoid the extreme weather conditions and poor visibility common on Everest. However, congestion at the base of the Hillary Step and the expedition Sherpas’ inability to fix ropes in a timely manner caused delays. By 2 pm, only a few climbers had reached the summit. Recognizing that his competitor, Scott Fischer, had successfully ascended with his clients, Hall decided to extend the deadline. Around 4 pm, Hall and his clients finally conquered Mount Everest.

The expedition has faced extensive scrutiny and analysis, raising questions about the commercialization of Everest climbing and its associated risks. Jon Krakauer‘s book “Into Thin Air” recounts the disastrous event, which is regarded as one of the deadliest climbing accidents in Mount Everest’s history.

As one ascends, oxygen levels decrease, leading to constant fatigue and frequent hyperventilation at high altitudes. Mount Everest has one-third less oxygen compared to sea level. Even smaller, trekkable mountains in Nepal necessitate acclimatization. It is hazardous to continue climbing higher altitudes without proper acclimatization. To summit Mount Everest, a month-long acclimatization process is required.

During acclimatization, Doug experienced respiratory difficulties. Two weeks before the final ascent on April 26th, Jon Krakauer, a fellow climber in the expedition, had to wake Doug from his sleeping bag after Doug expressed concerns about his throat and doubts about his ability to climb due to his age.

That same day, Doug discovered frostbite forming on the toes he had previously lost during his 1995 climb. Before the final ascent, Doug informed Hall that he might not be able to climb Everest, as he felt uncomfortable and struggled to speak. Hall encouraged Doug to persevere. Despite his concerns, Doug was reluctant to abandon the climb, as he had invested significant effort, money, and time into the endeavour and ultimately decided to continue.

On the final day, Doug Hansen was not feeling well. He informed his team members that he hadn’t eaten or slept properly for several days and expressed a desire to descend. However, after a brief conversation with Hall, Doug decided to continue the ascent.

What happened to Doug Hansen?

After a short stay at the top of Everest, Hansen headed back with Rob. They ran out of supplemental oxygen. Soon, Doug became physically and mentally weak. Before leaving for Nepal, Doug had also undergone a minor throat surgery and was feeling severe aftereffects. Hall had then advised him to wait for a couple of days before beginning the summit.

Rob attempted to encourage Doug to keep moving, but Doug was already struggling with exhaustion and hypothermia. Rob was unable to leave his client alone or help him descend the steep Hillary Step. By 6 pm, Hall descended alone to an area known as the South Summit.

Andy Harris, a member of Hall’s team, found Hansen and tried to provide him with oxygen, but Hansen was too weak to continue. Eventually, Harris had to leave Hansen in order to save his own life. At this point, Doug Hansen and Andy Harris had lost contact with Rob. Stranded, Hall radioed for help but ultimately succumbed to the mountain along with other climbers. Hansen’s body remained on the mountain for several years before another expedition discovered it in 2005.

How Did Hansen die?

The exact events surrounding Doug’s fate that evening remain unknown. It is speculated that he lost his footing and fell 7,000 feet to his death. His ice axe was later discovered lodged in the ridge. Struggling to move due to the lack of oxygen, Hansen ultimately succumbed to hypothermia.

FWT23 Grand Finale at YETI Xtreme Verbier: The Ultimate Showdown Awaits

March 20, 2023 by endorfeen

A Legendary Venue for the FWT23 Xtreme Verbier

FWT23 Xtreme Verbier – The highly anticipated climax of the FWT23 season is just around the corner, as world-class athletes perfect their strategies for the most renowned freeride competition worldwide: the YETI Xtreme Verbier. As always, the event takes place on the legendary Bec des Rosses, the birthplace of the Freeride World Tour and its enduring home.

This formidable face offers daring athletes up to 600 vertical meters of challenging terrain, with slopes surpassing 50 degrees amidst a labyrinth of technical features. It’s the ultimate challenge for any freerider and a spectacular way to wrap up a thrilling season.

Fresh Snow and Perfect Conditions for the Grande Finale at FWT23 Xtreme Verbier

The Bec des Rosses is now coated in a fresh layer of snow, thanks to recent snowfalls that have created ideal conditions for an epic final showdown.

The weather window for the event spans from March 25 to April 2, providing ample time for a safe and unforgettable competition in optimal conditions.

Buzzing Athletes and Fierce Competition

The athletes are brimming with excitement following a remarkable competition in Austria. Final rankings and the highly coveted FWT world title will be determined by each rider’s top three results, allowing them to discard their two lowest scores.

Katie Anderson (CAN) has already triumphed in the snowboard women category, while other disciplines remain neck and neck. In the snowboard men, Ludovic Guillot-Diat (FRA) maintains a slight lead over Jonathan Penfield (USA), with Justine Dufour-Lapointe (CAN) aiming to secure Canada’s second world champion title in the ski women category.

The ski men category is particularly tight, with Valentin Rainer (AUT) just ahead of a determined group of athletes, including reigning world champion Maxime Chabloz (SUI) and late-season contender Andrew Pollard (USA).

Wildcards Ready to Shake Things Up

Five wildcard entrants, each with their own history on the Bec, will join the already impressive roster and undoubtedly challenge the regular competitors.

Former FWT world champion and 2021 Xtreme Verbier victor Victor De Le Rue (FRA) is set to make his eagerly anticipated return after recovering from injury. Local Verbier rider Sybille Blanjean (SUI) will also be back, defending her Xtreme Verbier title, while Leo Slemett (FRA) from Chamonix returns to prove he’s still a force to be reckoned with. Reine Barkered (SWE), the longest-serving FWT athlete with 15 years on tour, will give it one last shot to add more accolades to his collection.

Lastly, Marion Haerty (FRA), one of the most successful riders in FWT history with an astounding four world titles, will make a comeback from injury and aim for another podium finish.

Catch All the Action LIVE!

Don’t miss a moment of the YETI Xtreme Verbier, which will be broadcast LIVE on the Freeride World Tour‘s Website at www.freerideworldtour.com. With user-friendly replay options, you can enjoy every breathtaking moment. In the meantime, follow FWT’s social media channels for updates and athlete news as the countdown to the season’s

The Nanga Parbat: Mysteries, Challenges and Conquests of the Killer Mountain

March 20, 2023 by endorfeen

Nanga Parbat, or the “Killer Mountain”

The killer mountain

Nanga Parbat, nicknamed “the killer mountain”, is a summit as fascinating as it is formidable. As of July 11, 2009, 322 intrepid climbers, including 22 women, had succeeded in reaching its summit. However, this merciless mountain has also taken the lives of 68 adventurers. This represents c.22% of attempts to date, bringing the tragic toll to 74 climbers by March 2019.

The sinister nickname “killer mountain” was given to it by the German expedition that finally managed to climb its flanks on July 3, 1953, after numerous unsuccessful attempts. Before this victory, thirty-one souls had perished trying to tame this giant of the Himalayas.

Between Albert F. Mummery’s daring first attempt in 1895 and Hermann Buhl’s successful first ascent in 1953, the Nanga Parbat tragically cost the lives of 30 intrepid adventurers. This summit holds a sad record testifying to its danger and the determination of the mountaineers to overcome its challenges.

The majestic Nanga Parbat, towering at an altitude of 8,125 meters, proudly stands as the ninth highest peak in the world and belongs to the famous Himalayan mountain range. Located entirely within Pakistani territory, this iconic mountain is also the westernmost peak over 8,000 meters. Its name, Nanga Parbat, means “naked mountain,” but it is also known as Diamir, which translates to “King of the Mountains,” reflecting its grandeur and majesty.

Many disasters

The legendary mountaineer Mummery was the first to tackle the formidable Nanga Parbat. He was followed by two Austrian-German expeditions in 1934 and 1937, which paid a heavy price to this merciless mountain. With its three immense and complex faces exposed to avalanches, Nanga Parbat presents a real challenge in terms of route.

Contrary to most other peaks over 8,000 meters, there is no obvious route to the summit.

Until the first successful ascent in 1953, mountaineers focused their efforts on the north side and the Rakhiot Glacier. We invite you to relive the tragic and epic moments of Himalayan history, as well as to discover the stories of more recent and contemporary expeditions that have marked the exploration of Nanga Parbat.

Among mountaineers, Nanga Parbat is considered one of the most difficult peaks over 8,000 meters to conquer. Unlike Everest, even the most classic and “easy” route to reach its summit, the Kinshofer route, proves to be extremely difficult. This path features steep slopes, avalanche corridors, and areas exposed to rockfall, making the ascent perilous and pushing climbers to the test of their limits.

Distinctive features

Located at the western end of the Himalayan chain, Nanga Parbat stands out as one of the most imposing and isolated mountain masses on Earth. The altitude difference between the summit and the bottom of the Indus Valley, located only 25 km away, is about 7,000 meters, testifying to its dizzying grandeur.

Moreover, the south wall of Nanga Parbat, also known as the Rupal Face, stands majestically at 4,500 meters, making it the highest rock wall in the world. These exceptional characteristics are sure to inspire respect and fascination among adventurers and mountain lovers.

From a geological standpoint, Nanga Parbat is primarily composed of granites and gneiss, metamorphic rocks that give it a solid and impressive structure. Depending on weather conditions, this composition can sometimes earn it the nickname “blue mountain” due to the hues it emits.

On the climatic level, Nanga Parbat is located at the border between two thermal zones, which causes violent and impetuous winds. These difficult climatic conditions add an extra challenge for the mountaineers who attempt to climb this extraordinary summit.

The macabre history of Nanga Parbat

Mummery and the first attempt

The very first attempt to climb Nanga Parbat was made in 1895 by the greatest English mountaineer of the time, Albert F. Mummery. This historic expedition marked the first attempt to climb a peak over 8,000 meters.

Mummery was an experienced climber. He had already accomplished daring ascents, such as the Grépon via the great crack (Mummery crack) and the Matterhorn via the Zmutt ridge.

On August 18, 1895, the first serious attempt of the expedition on Nanga Parbat failed at 6,200 meters altitude. Despite this failure, Mummery refused to make the long detour through the low valleys to return to Kashmir. He then began the ascent by the Diamir side, probably reaching an altitude of about 6,600 meters.

Convinced that a breach at the top of the Diamir Glacier offered a shortcut, Mummery set off on a new attempt with two porters. Alas, they disappeared without a trace and were never seen again. This first tragic expedition highlighted the danger of Nanga Parbat and the merciless challenge it presents to mountaineers.

The early 20th-century German attempts

The first failures

During the 1930s, the German mountaineer Willy Merkl also attempted to conquer the summit of Nanga Parbat. In 1932, he participated in the German-American Himalayan Expedition (Deutsch-amerikanischen Himalaya-Expedition (DAHE)), referred to as a “reconnaissance expedition”, but he also failed to reach the summit.

During the next expedition in 1934, Alfred Drexel succumbed upon the establishment of the base camp. He died of pulmonary oedema. Subsequently, a snowstorm on the southeast wall, at about 7,500 meters altitude, claimed the expedition leader Willy Merkl, Willy Welzenbach and Uli Wieland, as well as six Sherpas. They all perished one after the other.

Following this tragic expedition, the Nazi propaganda press renamed the Nanga Parbat “the mountain of the German destiny” (Schicksalsberg der Deutschen). Despite these failures and losses, Erwin Schneider and Peter Aschenbrenner managed to reach an antecime at 7,895 meters of altitude. It marked a significant advance in the exploration of this formidable mountain.

The Disasters and Failures of 1937 and 1938

Until the late 1930s, Nanga Parbat added many members of the German alpine elite to its grim tally. During the 1937 expedition, no fewer than sixteen people perished in an avalanche, including seven German climbers and nine Sherpas. The following expedition, led by Paul Bauer in 1938, paid increased attention to safety conditions but did not manage to climb the mountain to the altitude reached during the 1934 expedition.

During this expedition, the remains of Willy Merkl and the Sherpa Gay-Lay were found. Gay-Lay, although having the possibility to go back down, had preferred to stay with his sahib. The Nazi propaganda of the time celebrated him as a hero who had bravely faced death.

The 1939 expedition and the beginning of the Second World War

During the summer of 1939, a new exploratory expedition was undertaken on the northwest face of Nanga Parbat, the Diamir face. However, World War II broke out during the return journey of the team, composed of Peter Aufschnaiter, Heinrich Harrer, Lutz Chicken and Hans Lobenhoffer. The participants were interned in the British Indies due to the conflict.

The fate of Harrer and Aufschnaiter was later popularized thanks to Harrer’s book, Seven Years in Tibet, published in the early 1950s. This account, which became world-famous, recounts their adventures from their detention to their escape and journey to Tibet. The book was also adapted into a movie in 1997. It also contributed to the fame of this story of adventure and perseverance.

Hermann Buhl and the Post-War Success

After World War II, K. M. Herrligkoffer, half-brother of Willy Merkl, began preparing a new expedition to Nanga Parbat. Despite the thirty-one people who had perished in previous attempts, Austrian climber Hermann Buhl finally reached the summit on July 3, 1953, achieving an exceptional climbing performance.

Buhl began his ascent to the summit from the base camp located at 6,900 meters altitude. He reached the summit without artificial oxygen supply in a record time of 41 hours, considered then as impossible.

This feat was initially met with reluctance by members of the expedition, notably by its organizer Karl-Maria Herrligkoffer, as Buhl had not followed the expedition leader’s instructions. However, the crucial decisions made by Buhl, though contrary to orders, proved to be wise. Today, Buhl’s accomplishments are recognized and celebrated for their true worth as a pioneering act in extreme ascents.

A first by the face of the Diamir

In 1962, the Bavarian mountaineers Toni Kinshofer, Siegfried Löw and Anderl Mannhardt succeeded in climbing the Diamir face for the first time. It also marked the second successful ascent of the summit since Hermann Buhl’s. Unfortunately, the descent cost Siegfried Löw his life, while Kinshofer and Mannhardt returned with severe frostbite.

This expedition was also organized by K. M. Herrligkoffer.

The Messner Expedition, Success and Tragedy

In 1970, Günther and Reinhold Messner succeeded for the first time in climbing the most difficult face of Nanga Parbat, the south face or Rupal side. They climbed without a rope, but the support rope teams following them, being slower, could not catch up. This forced them to descend via the unexplored and unmarked Diamir side, still without a rope or equipment.

According to Reinhold’s accounts, Günther Messner was swept away by an avalanche during the descent. It was not until 2005 that his words were confirmed by the discovery of Günther Messner’s remains. The next day, the Tyrolean Felix Kuen and the Bavarian Peter Scholz also succeeded in the ascent by the south face. However, unlike Reinhold Messner, they descended by the Rupal slope.

This third successful expedition was also led by Herrligkoffer, who organized eight expeditions on this mountain between 1953 and 1975.

In 1978, Messner made a first on Nanga Parbat

In 1978, Reinhold Messner achieved a new ascent of Nanga Parbat and became, on this occasion, the first man to have climbed a summit of 8,000 meters from the base to the summit without interruption.

Nanga Parbat Reinhold Messner Archive — Reinhold Messner Archive

To accomplish this feat, he took the Diamir side, choosing an unprecedented route both for the ascent and for the descent.

At the base camp, he only had the support of a doctor and a liaison officer.

The Nanga Parbat from the 1980s to the early 2000s.

In 1984, Maurice and Liliane Barrard reached the summit of Nanga Parbat by taking a variant on the Diamir side. They thus achieved the first French ascent and Liliane became the first woman to reach the summit.

In 1990, Hans Kammerlander and Diego Wellig made the first ski descent of Nanga Parbat, taking the Diamir side.

In 2003, Jean-Christophe Lafaille opened a new route on the mountain. He first climbed the first bastion on June 20th and 21st in the company of Italian Simone Moro. However, exhausted at the exit of the route, around 7,000 meters, Moro decided to descend. Jean-Christophe then continued towards the summit by the normal route in the company of his American friend Ed Viesturs. Initially, this new line was to be baptized Tom & Martina (in homage to their respective children), but due to tensions with Moro, Jean-Christophe Lafaille finally only named the route Tom, considering that he had accomplished the ascent alone.

The ascent was completed entirely without oxygen. Back in France, Lafaille declared he never wanted to climb with Moro again.

The most recent ascents and attempts of Nanga Parbat.

In July 2008, the Italian alpinist Karl Unterkircher found death on the Rakhiot wall, at about 6,400 meters of altitude.

On June 22, 2013, the Nanga Parbat massacre took place, in which eleven mountaineers were killed by Pakistani Taliban disguised as Gilgit Scouts at the base camp on the Diamir face.

An expedition composed of Simone Moro (Italy), Alex Txikon (Spain) and Muhammad Ali Sadpara (Pakistan) reached the summit on February 26th, 2016, thus achieving the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat.

On January 26, 2018, after reaching the summit in alpine style, Polish alpinist Tomasz Mackiewicz and Frenchwoman Élisabeth Revol began their descent. Mackiewicz was suffering from ophthalmia and frostbite, which complicated their progress. The two alpinists eventually separated, and Élisabeth Revol was rescued by a rescue expedition at 6,300 meters altitude. Tomasz Mackiewicz, on the other hand, could not be recovered as planned by helicopter and remained stuck at 7,200 meters. He was declared missing. In March of the following year, British Tom Ballard and Italian Daniele Nardi lost their lives on this mountain.

The main ascent routes of Nanga Parbat

The Rakhiot slope

The Rakhiot side, also known as the “Buhl route,” is the northern route that was taken during the first successful ascent of Nanga Parbat. It is likely the longest and least steep route to reach the summit.

The ascent begins with the Rakhiot Glacier (the base camp in 1953 was located at an altitude of 3,967 meters), located just below the northeast wall. Then, the climbers climb the snow-capped peak of Rakhiot (7,070 m), the Maure Head (Mohrenkopf), and then pass on its eastern slope before reaching the Silver Saddle (Silbersattel), at 7,400 meters altitude.

From there, the route continues on a less steep portion of the Silver Plateau (Silberplateau) before reaching the northern summit. Then, climbers must pass through the Bazhin escarpment (7,812 m) before scaling the final pyramid leading to the summit of Nanga Parbat.

The flank of the Diamir of Nanga Parbat

The Diamir flank, which is the western face of Nanga Parbat, was first taken during the 1962 expedition mentioned earlier (the base camp was at about 4,100 meters altitude). The team did not directly use the “Kinshofer route” (the most frequently used route today), but instead chose a route to the left of the wall. In 1978, Reinhold Messner used a more direct route by taking different tracks on the ascent and descent. Towards the end of the climb, the Diamir route intersects with the other routes on the Bazhin escarpment.

The Diamir face is characterized by a complex network of glacial corridors, huge seracs, and dangerous avalanche chutes. The “Mummery spurs” (Mummery-Rippen) are located halfway up the wall and provide partial protection from avalanches. However, at the base of the spurs, there is an extremely steep and difficult-to-navigate slope.

The Rupal side

The Rupal side, facing south, has an impressive height of 4,500 meters. It is bordered on the right by the spectacular southeast fracture.

The route, first successfully climbed in 1970, follows the steepest area of the ridge line and crosses very difficult sections towards the end, such as the Merkl couloir (Merkl-Rinne) at 7,350 meters and the Welzenbach glacier (Welzenbach-Eisfeld).

An alternative route was taken in 1976 by the reduced expedition led by Hanns Schell, which included four climbers and a doctor. This route went through the left wall, leading them to the southwest ridge, and then finally to the summit after crossing the Mazeno couloir. This “Schell route” is considered to be relatively “easy.”

From September 1st to 8th 2005 (summit on September 6th), Vince Anderson and Steve House (USA) succeeded in the ascent of a new alpine-style route on the central pillar of the Rupal face. This achievement earned them the prestigious Golden Ice Axe (Europe) that year.

The south-east pillars, located to the right of the Direttissima, were first conquered in 1982.

The Diama Glacier

The Diama Glacier, located on the north-west route to the left of the Diamir slope, had not been climbed until 2018. This route was attempted for the first time in 1990 and also by Messner in 2000, but without success. Finally, the summit was reached on January 26, 2018, in winter and alpine style, by Tomasz Mackiewicz and Élisabeth Revol.

Unfortunately, Polish climber Tomasz Mackiewicz perished during the descent attempt, while French climber Élisabeth Revol was rescued by Denis Urubko and Adam Bielecki. Revol suffered multiple frostbites as a result of this expedition.

Cappadocia hot air balloon, the best places to admire them in Cappadocia

March 19, 2023 by endorfeen

Cappadocia hot air balloons? Explore the sensational attraction that captivates visitors in Cappadocia, and it’s not just about the breathtaking panoramas! In 2018, hot air balloons won the hearts of over 500,000 adventurers. Indeed, half a million people flew over Cappadocia in a balloon!

This extraordinary experience offers breathtaking views of the Cappadocian sky, dotted with multicoloured hot air balloons, especially at sunrise. This unique and fascinating show will not fail to leave a lasting impression.

Mongolfières en Turquie — Photo by Mehmet Turgut Kirkgoz

The experience will cost you between €149 and €300+. The price differences are often explained by the different services offered. This is especially correlated to the number of passengers on board the hot air balloon. A larger number of participants makes the price more affordable. At the same time, it can also mean that there won’t be room in the basket for everyone. It is therefore advisable to study the different options to find the one that best fits the budget and preferences of each.

However, it should be noted that the show observed from the ground can be just as impressive.

How to get to Cappadocia?

A remote region

It is true that Cappadocia is a relatively isolated region, which can make public transportation limited and tiring. Bus rides can be exhausting, while plane tickets can be expensive. However, it is important to note that Cappadocia is well worth the trip and that several transportation options are available to you.

You can consider renting a car or taking a guided tour to facilitate your travels. These options will allow you to discover the wonders of the region at your own pace and to fully enjoy your stay.

By bus

If you choose to go to Cappadocia by bus, know that most bus companies offer connections to Nevsehir or Göreme. The journey from Istanbul or Izmir takes about 12 hours, while from Ankara, it takes about 5 hours.

Although bus travel can be long and tiring, it can be a cost-effective option for budget travellers. Make sure to book in advance. You would avoid surprises and get ready to enjoy the area’s beauty upon arrival.

By plane

The fastest, although most expensive, way to get to Cappadocia is by plane. You can book flights to two main airports:

Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR). It is located about an hour away from the centre of the region. It is easy to arrange a shuttle between Kayseri Airport and Cappadocia.
Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV). It is located in the city of Gülsehir in the province of Nevsehir.

Turkish Airlines offers direct flights between Istanbul and Nevsehir twice a day.

From Istanbul

If you are in Istanbul and you want to discover Cappadocia, you can consider an all-inclusive package, including bus or plane transportation, one night stay and a hot air balloon ride.

This option can prove to be more economical than booking each element separately. In addition to making it easier to organize your trip, an all-inclusive package can offer you additional benefits, such as the possibility of a guided tour or staying in quality accommodation. Check with the different travel agencies to find the package that best suits your needs and budget.

Recommendations for those who want to discover Cappadocia by hot air balloon

If the experience tempts you, here is some information that should help you choose the best balloon flight possible:

The best day

It is important to note that hot air balloons do not take off daily in Cappadocia. For obvious safety reasons, flights may be cancelled if the weather conditions are too windy.

If you absolutely want to take a hot air balloon ride, we recommend that you plan for several days to give yourself a better chance of being able to experience it.

The departures

There are two possible departures for hot air balloon flights in Cappadocia. First, a departure before sunrise to be up in the air when the sun rises. Second, a departure during sunrise. Although it may seem counterintuitive, we recommend the second option instead. The landscapes are more impressive during sunrise when the beautiful morning light illuminates the valleys. If you choose a flight before sunrise, you will be flying in the dark for half of the time.

Choosing the second flight allows you to observe the takeoff of the first hot air balloons. You would join the sky in the middle of all the balloons, making the experience even more spectacular and memorable.

The Valleys

It is important to note that not all hot air balloon rides in Cappadocia are equal.

According to feedback from several people who have taken a flight, some hot air balloons just go up very high and then come back down. Others fly inside valleys, getting very close to fairy chimneys, such as the “Valley of Love” or the “Rose Valley”.

This may depend on the experience of the pilots, but we recommend asking the travel agency if you will be able to fly inside the valleys before booking your flight.

This option will offer you an even more immersive and memorable experience. You would enjoy breathtaking views of the unique landscapes of Cappadocia.

The clothes

It is important to consider the season when visiting Cappadocia. Even during the summer months, it is recommended to take warm clothes for your hot air balloon flight.

We recommend you to take a hat, light gloves and a warm jacket to protect you from the cold, especially at 1000 meters in the air. Temperatures can be quite chilly, even during the warmest months. Don’t hesitate to plan for warm clothing to make your experience more comfortable.

What is the rate for hot air balloon rides in Turkey?

Travellers who opted for a hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia have generally been delighted with their experience. They enjoyed the spectacular view they were able to admire. Although hot air balloon rides in Cappadocia can be expensive, there are various offers to meet the different needs and budgets of travelers, ranging from a basic flight to all-inclusive offers including transportation, accommodation and guided tours.

Whatever your choice, we are convinced that your hot air balloon ride will be one of the highlights of your trip to Cappadocia.

The rates to board a hot air balloon in Cappadocia usually range from €125 to €260 per person, depending on the duration of the flight, the time of day and the season. Flights usually last between 1 and 3 hours. It should be noted that rates may be more advantageous for groups.

Hot air ballooning in Turkey, and organized tours are popular

There are many Cappadocia tour packages available including a hot air balloon flight and an overnight stay.

These tours may include various activities such as discovering traditional Turkish cuisine prepared by locals, walks through vineyards and pistachio trees, or hiking. These tours are an excellent option to discover Cappadocia in all its splendour and to enjoy this unique hot air balloon experience fully.

If you are pressed for time but still want to explore more remote places, it may be worthwhile to consider a guided tour. You can usually participate in a tour organized by your hotel for a reasonable price. Another option would be to book one with one of the many online travel agencies.

Organized tours usually follow a standard itinerary, but we recommend checking what is included in the price before accepting anything. Guided tours can be an excellent option to discover the most important sites of Cappadocia and fully enjoy your time there.

Some guided tours may include flights departing from Istanbul. This can save you a lot of time and allow you to enjoy your stay in Cappadocia fully. The tours may also include visits at sunrise or sunset, with a transfer from Kayseri and extras such as a glass of champagne or breakfast on board the hot air balloon.

These tours offer an excellent opportunity to discover the region’s most iconic sites. They would often allow you to enjoy the unique experience of a hot air balloon flight.

The privileged sites to admire hot air balloons in Cappadocia, away from the hustle and bustle

The large number of hot air balloons rising in the sky of Cappadocia almost every morning has created a real tourist phenomenon. More and more visitors now come to Cappadocia to admire this incredible show at sunrise.

It is easy to understand why. Seeing 100 to 200 colourful balloons floating in the air above the beautiful landscapes of this region of Turkey is a unique and truly impressive experience.

It is true that the appeal of hot air balloons attracts a large number of visitors, particularly at sunrise, which can lead to a large influx of people in the streets of Göreme as early as 4:30 in the morning. It is therefore important to plan your visit accordingly and try to find less crowded places if you prefer to enjoy the show in peace.

If you prefer to enjoy the show in peace and quiet, look for quieter and more isolated spots offering a magnificent view of the hot air balloons. Some places easily accessible by foot or car from Göreme are often crowded at sunrise due to the influx of visitors who come to observe the hot air balloons. However, there are several other less frequented and equally picturesque spots that you could discover during your trip to Cappadocia.

There is an official website that allows you to check whether hot air balloons have permission to take off or not, thus avoiding getting up at 4am for nothing. However, permission is often given at the last minute, which can be a problem if you plan to walk to a spot. It is therefore advisable to inquire in advance about the weather conditions and to keep an eye on the website to find out whether hot air balloons are authorized to fly or not.

The “Love Valley”

Located in the heart of the Valley of Love, this place offers an unforgettable experience, far from the crowded viewpoints accessible by car. The sunrise there is particularly spectacular.

To access it, count a distance of approximately 3 to 4 kilometers from the center of Göreme, a walk of 30 to 45 minutes. In order to arrive in time to witness the sunrise, it is recommended to leave at least 45 minutes before the event.

The location is inside the Valley of Love, at the foot of the fairy chimneys, offering an ideal setting for taking beautiful photographs. It is possible to enjoy this place in peace and quiet, without the presence of other people.

The spectacle of hot air balloons is breathtaking, with takeoffs spreading out over more than an hour around. Some of them even fly very low in the valley, adding to the charm of the experience.

A website near Göreme

For those who prefer not to stray too far from Göreme, this site is an excellent choice.

It is located away from the popular viewpoint adorned with the Turkish flag, frequented by many visitors morning and evening. This place offers a splendid view of the fairy chimneys of Görkündere. On a morning visit, it is possible to enjoy a moment of tranquility in the company of a loved one. However, it should be kept in mind that hot air balloons may not take off on certain days due to weather conditions.

The “Swords Valley”

This remarkable site deserves a visit at dawn.

It is located above the Swords Valley and offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surroundings. However, one must consider the distance of more than 4 kilometres from Göreme, which takes about 45 minutes to walk. It is also advisable to carry a flashlight to ensure visibility during the morning walk, as the paths are sometimes used by vehicles transporting hot air balloons.

The perspective offered by this site contrasts with that of the spot located in the Valley of Love. Here, visitors can admire the take-off of hot air balloons from an elevated position. Furthermore, the view of the villages of Göreme and Uçhisar in the background adds to the beauty of the landscape.

Akdag summit and Rose Valley

The two sites mentioned are grouped together due to their proximity. However, given their distance from Göreme, it is recommended to drive to the Rose Valley parking lot for an early morning visit or camp the night before at the top of Akdag, which offers an exceptional bivouac location.

What is the procedure for booking a hot air balloon flight?

Once the different hot air balloon options in Cappadocia have been compared, the next step is to book the ticket to experience this unforgettable experience.

In Cappadocia, a multitude of providers offer hot air balloon flights. Prices vary depending on the season, included services, and possible discounts. It is recommended to use comparison tools, such as TourScanner, to examine the offers of different travel agencies and make the best choice.

Is balloon flight safety assured?

Taking a hot air balloon ride can give some people goosebumps, a perfectly understandable reaction to an unusual experience.

Rest assured, an explanation of basic rules and safety instructions is systematically provided before the flight. Takeoff is smooth, to the point that it often goes unnoticed. Quickly, passengers are tempted to take out their cameras to capture the experience.

Riding in a hot air balloon in strong winds is not recommended. However, in such circumstances, the agency or pilot responsible for the flight will inform passengers of any risks and take appropriate decisions to ensure the safety of all.