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Archives for December 2022

Rob Hall, the Legendary Founder of Adventure Consultants

December 27, 2022 by Sergei Poljak

Rob Hall was a mountaineer from New Zealand, celebrated for his ascents of the Seven Summits in record time, his daring high-altitude escapades, and his successful guiding company ‘Adventure Consultants.’ Unfortunately, he perished in a blizzard with seven other climbers in the 1996 Everest Disaster.

Rob Hall - portrait
Rob Hall. Photo: Colin Monteath

Who Was Rob Hall?

Rob Hall’s Origins

Rob Hall was born on January 14, 1961, in Christchurch, New Zealand. Growing up on the South Island at the foot of the country’s Southern Alps, Hall naturally got into climbing at a young age. By his early teens, he seemingly already had his life mapped out before him. At age 16, he left school early to work as a production manager and designer for a small New Zealand outdoor company called Alp Sports.

Meanwhile, Hall continued to pursue increasingly bold objectives. By the age of 21, he had completed daring routes in the Himalayas, including the second ascent of the North Ridge of Ama Dablam and the second ascent of Nt. Numbur. In New Zealand, Hall completed the first winter ascent of the Caroline Face on Aoraki, the highest Peak in New Zealand. 

Rob Hall by Colin Monteath
Rob Hall. Photo: Colin Monteath

Strong Climbing Partnership

All climbers are familiar with the challenge of finding an equally skilled, trustworthy, and reliable partner with whom to share the adventure of the mountains. One of the great fortunes in Hall’s life was his acquaintance with Gary Ball in 1988. The two quickly formed one of modern history’s most celebrated climbing partnerships.

When the two Kiwis met, the Seven Summits – referring to the highest mountain on all seven continents – had only been completed three years before. Rob Hall and Gary Ball were both drawn to bold and adventurous missions. They were ready to graduate from the Southern Alps of their homeland and take on a challenge that would give them international recognition. 

A successful ascent of Everest in 1990 was broadcast live from the summit on New Zealand prime-time television via satellite phone. Seven months later, the two men completed the Seven Summits with their successful ascent of Mount Vinson in Antarctica. A speed record at the time, the completion of this challenge solidified both men in the annals of New Zealand’s climbing mythology. 

Rob Hall’s Adventure Consultants

Following the success of the Seven Summits mission in 1990, Hall was flush with accolades and commercial sponsorships. However, he became disillusioned as a sponsored climber and athlete. To maintain rank and influence, he was expected to continue to push the limits in climbing. As an experienced mountaineer, Hall knew he would eventually step over the edge if he kept up this regimen. 

In addition to his success as a mountaineer, Hall continued to build a career in the outdoor equipment industry. Following a brief but successful period at Alp Sports, he began work at Macpac Wilderness Ltd, New Zealand’s leading outdoor brand. Four years later, he broke away to start his own company under the label ‘Outside.’ Hall’s career success highlighted his natural ability to plan, organize and execute ideas.  

In 1991, Rob Hall and Gary Ball formed ‘Hall and Ball Adventure Consultants.’ The climbers knew that the skills they possessed held value in a burgeoning industry of high-altitude guiding. 

Adventure Consultants’ first guiding expedition took place the following year with a successful attempt at Everest. They followed up with trips to Aconcagua and Mount Vinson and returned to Everest in 1993 for another successful shot at the summit. This time, Hall shared the moment with his wife, Jan Arnold as well as some of his clients. 

Later that year, Hall and Ball embarked on a personal expedition to Dhaulagiri, the 7th highest peak in the world. The team reached 24,000 ft and was preparing for an assault on the summit when Ball began to show signs of altitude sickness. The group began to descend as quickly as possible, and, despite treatment, Ball perished within 24 hours. Hall lowered his body into a deep crevasse just above base camp and later stated to the press, “Letting go of that rope was one of the most difficult things I’ve ever had to do.”

Hall chose to continue guiding without his partner, shortening the name of the outfit to  simply ‘Adventure Consultants.’

Rob Hall and Gary Ball
Rob Hall and Gary Ball of Hall and Ball’s Adventure Consultants. Photo: South Canterbury Museum

Rob Hall’s 1996 Everest Disaster

Overview of the Expedition

By 1996 Rob Hall had led three successful Everest missions and was earning a name for himself within the world of high-altitude guiding. Clients paying $65,000 wanted a return on their investment – they wanted to hire the outfit most likely to reward them with the summit. Hall was that guide. 

However, Hall did not have a 100% success rate. Nearing the summit in 1995, he turned his clients back due to excessive snow. The retreat didn’t diminish Hall’s reputation as a guide – it provided evidence of his rational decision-making and competence in the mountains. Hall wasn’t going to put summit ambitions ahead of clients’ safety. 

The 1996 expedition consisted of eight clients and three guides, though only five would ultimately attempt the summit. Hall’s clients included three Americans – Jon Krakauer, Doug Hansen, and Beck Weathers. The mission proceeded according to plan for weeks, and only in the last few hours did a series of misfortunes begin to unfold. As a result, May 10-11th became one of the deadliest days in the mountain’s history. 

A Series of Delays

The climbers began their summit push early on May 10. Unfortunately, the mission began to derail when Beck Weathers lost visibility due to UV exposure and previous corneal surgery. His snowblindness prompted Hall to move on with the other clients while Weathers waited for their return. Their proximity to the summit meant it should only have been a few hours until the group returned and everybody headed down the mountain. 

As Hall’s group continued up the mountain, they discovered that there were no fixed lines. Hall would have to fix the lines himself, costing them more time. 

The need to fix lines also produced a bottleneck at the top of the mountain, further dragging out the summit push.

The group continued to labour their way up the mountain, but the extra time cost its members valuable energy. One client, in particular, Doug Hansen, showed signs of dangerous exhaustion as the group neared the summit. 

One of the mysteries in the aftermath of the tragedy is why Hall chose to continue to the summit even though the group had missed the 2 p.m. hard deadline to begin descending. Hall himself had established this deadline. He and other guides had learned from experience that it was the absolute latest that a group could start descending and still return to camp before nightfall. 

A Storm on Everest

Rob Hall’s group made the summit and began to descend, but by this time, it was well after 3 p.m., and Hansen was showing signs of severe exhaustion. 

As if to punish Hall for pushing his luck this far, the mountain became engulfed in a violent snowstorm. Already exhausted, Hansen became unable to continue on. The remaining guides and clients continued down the mountain while Hall stayed with Hansen, unable to abandon his client. Andy Harris, another Adventure Consultants guide, is reported to have joined Hall for a period of time, though his body was never found.

Hansen died a short while later and Rob Hall prepared to bivouac near a col just below the South Summit. He remained in radio contact for 30 more hours. Attempts to rescue him were unsuccessful due to the blizzard conditions. Hall was also insistent on the radio that he would be fine. He did not want others risking their lives to save him. 

After more than 30 hours high up on the mountain, Hall grew increasingly scarce on the radio. Eventually, he ceased contact altogether. 

Several other tragedies were unfolding at the same time and would increase the body count on Everest: 

  • Yasuko Namba, the oldest woman to have submitted Everest at the time, died during the descent in the blizzard.
  • Three Indian climbers died on the North Ridge on the same night. 
  • Scott Fisher, lead guide of the Mountain Madness expedition, died during the descent after summitting at 3:45 p.m. He was probably suffering from altitude sickness, further compounded by the blizzard’s effects.

A Tragedy Widely Covered

The tragedy received international coverage due to the reporting from Jon Krakauer, an American journalist on assignment from Outside Magazine. Krakauer went on to write a best-selling account of the incident called Into Thin Air. The book proved to be somewhat contentious in the mountaineering community. Some mountaineers felt that Krakauer, as a mere journalist with no other 8,000m experience, should not have criticized the decisions of experts as much as he did. Others felt that Krakauer offered a fair analysis of the situation. He boldly addressed the ‘expert halo’ often assigned to leaders.

The Fate of Rob Hall’s Body 

In 2004, a team of 31 Nepalese Sherpas left Katmandhu on a mission to remove the bodies of four or five climbers as well as a few tons of rubbish. It is nearly impossible for climbers to salvage the bodies of their fallen compatriots during the actual climb. In the death zone above 8,000m, climbers are too fatigued to lower the immobile, frozen bodies of their brethren. The fallen are left where they die and often remain there for eternity. Only half of the 300 bodies on the mountain have been removed.

While some bodies are inaccessible, others are closer to the main route and are easier to transport. “It’s not good to leave dead bodies there. The mountain is also a source of water,” explained Namgyal Sherpa, the expedition leader. Not only are the bodies harrowing for future climbers, but they are also a violation of Nepalese law and customs. 

Jan Arnold, Hall’s widow, expressed her wishes for her husband’s body to remain on the mountain. It is “where he’d like to have stayed,” and his body is far from the main route. In fact, it wasn’t even discovered until 1999, three years after the accident. To this day, Hall’s body remains frozen below the South Summit, forever a tribute to that fateful day. 

Rob Hall and his wife Jan Arnold. Photo: Colin Monteath

K2, the Second Highest Mountain in the World

December 22, 2022 by endorfeen

Overview of K2 mountain

K2 comes second in the world’s highest peaks. It is located in Karakoram Range between a Chinese-administered enclave, part of the Kashmir region, and the Uygur region of Xinjiang, China. Part of it also lies in the Gilgit-Baltistan portion of Kashmir, which is part of the Pakistani administration. 

The mountain reaches around 15,000 feet from top to bottom. It was discovered in 1856 by Col. T.G Montgomerie, Survey of India, and was given the K2 symbol. Due to its second placement in the list of peaks measured in the Karakoram Range. 

Its distinctive name comes from the notation used by the Great Trigonometrical Survey of British India. It has also been known as the “Savage Mountain”; since George Bell used the term following an expedition in 1953. Bell almost slipped and fell to his death during a failed ascent. This made him describe the mountain as “savage” and that it ‘tries to kill you”. The name Mount Godwin Austen comes from the peak’s first surveyor, Col H.H. Godwin Austen, who was an English geographer in the 19th century.

Another name that is commonly used to refer to the mountains is Chogori. It derives from two Balti words: chhogo (meaning big) and ri (meaning mountain). There is a little confusion as to whether the name was created by western explorers. This comes from the question regarding the mountain’s name, as it is unlikely that many people would have experienced K2.

Why is K2 mountain considered as being the deadliest and most challenging climb?

One of the highest mountains in the world, surrounded by bad weather

The mountain is known for its extreme weather and severe storms. This makes the difficult climbing conditions much harder to accomplish. This is why it is naturally known as one of the world’s most difficult mountains to climb.

One of the main reasons this mountain is known for its difficulty to be climbed is the last 611m stretch of the mountain. This is known as “the death zone” and is above 8000m. It contains extremely thin air that is insufficient to sustain human life for more than a short while. Unless provided with the aid of supplementary oxygen. This is because only a third as much oxygen is available at the summit as there is at sea level.

People die and die often

If you look at the number of people who have reached the summit of Mount Everest and those of K2, the latter’s is only a tiny fraction of the former’s. However, fewer deaths have taken place on K2. However, the number of deaths that have taken place and the number of people that have attempted to climb K2 is much higher. In 2008, the deadliest K2 disaster in the history of K2 mountaineering occurred. 11 mountaineers died after an ice avalanche that swept away ropes close to the Bottleneck. However, the deadliest climbing season on K2 was in 1986. In total, 13 climbers died in separate and unrelated incidents in two weeks. 

It has been noted that reaching the peak of K2 from the Chinese side can prove more difficult and hazardous. Hence why climbing it from the Pakistani side is highly recommended. There is also a base camp on the Pakistani side, where all the major climbing routes often begin.

It is estimated that around one in four K2 summiteers dies while on the mountain. This is a summit-to-death rate of roughly 25%.

First attempt to reach the summit

The first known attempt to reach K2’s summit was by an Anglo-Swiss expedition in 1902. The ascent was 18,600 feet over the northeastern crest of the peak. There have been other unsuccessful attempts, including a 1909 Italian expedition that Luigi Amedeo, Duke d’Abruzzi, led. They went through the southeastern ridge and managed to reach around 20,000 feet. The name of this ridge was later changed to Abruzzi.

Luigi Amedeo of Savoy, Duke of Abruzzi, with General Ulysses Grant, commander of the New York military division

In 1954, an Italian expedition, including one Pakistani man, conquered the mountain despite severe weather conditions. 

The first winter ascent of K2 mountain, a Nepali achievement

On January 16th, 2021, a team of 10 Nepali climbers set out to climb K2. The climbers managed to reach the 28,251-foot summit of the second-highest mountain. K2 is the last on the list of good winter climbs of the 14 tallest mountains. First, this is because it is considered by far the most challenging and dangerous. This is because of the technical climbing you’d have to do to reach the top. 

k2 Nirmal Purja
Nirmal “Nims” Purja on January 5, 2021, before his winter ascent of K2.Nimsdai / Red Bull Content Pool

This was able to be achieved due to their teamwork. The expedition consisted of multiple teams: one led by Normal Purja and the other by Mingma G Sherpa. Days before the mountain’s last stretch, both teams decided they needed a strategy. And so they began fixing ropes to all reach the summit together successfully. According to a post made on social media by Nirmal Purja, the entire team waited just inches from the summit. Allowing them to reach it together at the same time, all while singing the Nepali national anthem. 

Is the most dangerous mountain being tamed?

K2 has become an increasingly sought-after goal for many, as a few other 8,000-meter peaks succumbed to bad weather conditions. Despite the ongoing pandemic at the time, 60 people congregated at the base camp on Pakistan’s Godwin Austen Glacier. These included large commercial expeditions with 22 paying climbers and 27 Sherpa supporters. All of it is organized by Seven Summits Treks, a Nepali-guided service. 

The mountain has become a sensation and a central talking point for movies, books, and documentaries. “The Summit” is a documentary film that tries to encapsulate the tragedy of 2008. It also appears in K2: Siren of the Himalayas and Vertical Limit.

2022 has seen over 190 summits as of late July, surpassing the previous year’s record of 62 (2018) by almost three times. More than 145 climbers summited K2 in 24 hours on July 22nd. 

Denali, the Highest Mountain in the USA

December 20, 2022 by endorfeen

About Denali

Denali is the tallest mountain in North America, and it is located in south-central Alaska and in the Alaskan mountain Range. Reaching 6,190 meters above sea level with its peak, Denali is the third-highest mountain out of the Seven Summits.

In 2015, the United States Geological Survey (USGS) used state-of-the-art equipment to measure Denali, which defined its height as 6,190 meters. However, in 2013 a report was released stating that its actual height was 6,168 meters, which disrupted the long-standing figure of 6,194 meters that had been circulating since the 1950s. 

Denali or Mount Mckinley

‘Denali’ comes from Koyukon, which is a traditional Native Alaskan language, and it means “the tall one”. The name had already been used for several generations, including by researchers and naturalists. However, in 1896, there was a prospector called William A. Dickey. He started calling Denali ‘Mount McKinley in honour of William McKinley, a presidential candidate at that time. In 1917, after McKinley had become president before being assassinated,  Congress officially recognised the name. This was even though McKinley himself had never even visited Alaska. Also that year, the Park in which the mountain resides was officially established as Mount McKinley National Park on February 26.

Native Alaskans, including locals of various backgrounds, continued to call the mountain “Denali”. This caused a movement in 1975 where the aim was to rename the mountain to its original name, Denali. Unfortunately, this appeal was overpassed by politicians in Ohio, where McKinley was from. However, in 2015, President Barack Obama, with Secretary of Interior, Sally Jewell, changed its name back to Denali, which remains its official name today.

The First Ascent

Hudson Stuck, Walter Harper, Harry Karstens, and Robert Tatum achieved Denali’s first ascent. In 1913, the group ascended 20,320 feet through the Karstens Ridge-Muldrow Glacier through Denali’s south summit. 

1913 crew, from left: Robert Tatum, Esaias George, Harry Karstens, John Fredson, Walter Harper.

Through the West Buttress, a route was led by Bradford Washburn in 1951. Later, Art Davidson, Dave Johnston, and Ray Genet made the first winter ascent through the West Buttress route in 1967.

Through the West Rib in 1959, Peter Sinclair, Jake Breitenbach, Barry Corbet, and Bill Buckingham made their first ascent. The first solo ascent via this route was in 1977 by Rupert Kammerlander. And the first winter ascent was in 1983.

The Cassin Ridge route its first solo ascent in 1976 by Charlie Porter, reaching its summit in 36 hours. Jonathan Waterman, Roger Mear, and Mike Young in 1983 accomplished the first winter ascent. Finally, a group of climbers named “The Immortal Mugs Stump” reached the summit in just 15 hours in 1991. It is still considered the strongest climb via that route since its first ascent.

During its 2012 season, Denali welcomed over 1,200 climbers attempting to reach the summit. Out of those 1,200, 498 reached the top. 

Since 1903, Denali has had a historical summit rate of 52%, and the climbing rates didn’t peak until 1976. This was when Denali had more than 500 visitors in one calendar season for the first time. Ever since, 1979 has the record for the highest summit rate, 79%. Conversely, the year with the lowest summit rate was 1987, with the rating being just 31%. 

What the Journey of a Climb would look like

Most Denali climbers (over 90%) choose to climb the West Buttress route. This is because it is considered the least technical way to reach the summit. The Muldrow Glacier, which is on the north side of the mountain, is similar in terms of technical difficulty and length.

However, it requires much more commitment and involvement when beginning the climb. First, you must hike in rather than fly to the nearest base camp. The following most visited route is the West Rib; however, it only sees a small number of parties per year.

Speaking in technical terms, West Rib is seen as more complex and has a higher level of danger when compared to West Buttress. Besides the three most popular routes, the remaining routes are considered much more technical, require more commitment and hold a higher difficulty level.

Denali’s normal climbing season lasts from late April until mid-July. However, the most popular times are between mid-May to late June.

Overview of Denali National Park

Upon arrival at Denali, you will find Riley Creek Campground, the Alaska Railroad station, the Denali Visitor Center, and the Murie Science and Learning Center. These are all significant factors and an integral part of Denali’s National Park. 

Denali National Park
Denali National Park and Preserve, AK, USA. Credits: Dillon Groves

The park entrance, where Denali Park Road meets Alaska Highway 3, is located on the Park’s eastern end. Once entered, you will find Denali Park Road, which is 92 miles long and runs from east to west. The road is scenic, starting in a low, forested area. However, it rises and falls through mountain passes on its journey to the west. 

Denali’s Park is home to the only dog sledge team in the US, which is used to patrol the Park. Visitors are permitted to meet the canine rangers by visiting the kennels open all year and close to the park entrance.

Origin of Denali National Park and Preserve

Over a century ago, two men spent the entire winter in a cabin close to the Toklat River. Their experiences with the wild landscape made them concoct an idea. It was centred around preserving it so it could be enjoyed in the future. This led to the creation of the world’s first national Park for wildlife preservation. 

Charles Sheldon, an early conservationist and hunter from Vermont, and Harry Karstens, a known outdoorsman and dog musher, came up with the idea. This was during their long winter stay at the cabin. The idea was to turn the place into a national landscape while its wildlife remained intact. 

By 1917, after nearly ten years of dedication, Sheldon and others who shared his beliefs managed to lead Congress toward the creation of Mount McKinley National Park. And four years later, in 1921, Karstens was hired as its first superintendent. 

What is Linen – Linen vs Cotton Fabrics

December 15, 2022 by Louis Udeani

Linen and cotton are two of the most popular textile materials in the world currently, and they are both derived from natural fibres. Both fabrics might seem very similar, but in examining both materials closely, you would discover they slightly differ based on different elements, like breathability or absorbency. These slight differences make them each unique.

Their productions are also believed to have a comparatively low environmental impact, but some studies, both on linen and cotton, suggest that there are major concerns associated with the production phase of these fabrics that require regulatory actions. This is part of the reason various textile associations have been set up globally; to maximize support for textile manufacturing companies and ensure true sustainability practices in chemicals policy, circular economy, sustainable supply chains and industrial emissions.

linen and cotton fabrics
Source: Freepik. Image by user5812043

What is Linen?

Linen is a sustainable fabric made from the flax plant. It is very strong and lightweight. The flax plant is cultivated in almost every country in the world and has been a thriving source of fibre for over 6,000 years. Unlike cotton, linen takes longer to harvest and weave into the fabric due to the texture of the flax fibres. The extracted fibres are stored for long periods to soften them and make them easier to weave.

This environment-friendly fabric is mainly used for homeware applications. Its clothing is desirable in hot and humid climates. Unlike cotton, which tends to retain moisture for longer periods, linen dries up faster, which reduces heat retention during hot weather conditions.

Linen is much more labourious to manufacture than cotton. This has resulted in the reduction of the fabric’s popularity. In 2019, its production was barely one per cent of the total global fibre production, and China produces about 60 per cent of that one per cent. Nevertheless, its unique, desirable attributes still pull a significant amount of demand in the textile industry.

What is Cotton?

Cotton is a soft silky fibre gotten in its raw state from cotton plants, part of the genus Gossypium and the family Malvaceae.

Cotton is commonly referred to as staple fibre, as it is one of the most important fabrics in the textile industry worldwide. It is very recyclable. The fibre is composed of different varying lengths of material. The fibre can be found at the tip of the cotton plant called the boll. The boll serves as an encasing for the soft and fluffy raw material. The material is then spun and woven to create the fabric used in textile factories.

What are the different types of Linen?

Linen is mainly categorized into four major types. They are all derived from processed and spun flax, but the difference lies in the weaving techniques used to produce them.

  1. Damask linen: This type of linen is ornate and delicate, formed on a jacquard loom. The end result is very similar to embroidery. Consumers typically use damask linen for decorative purposes and not everyday use.
  2. Plain-woven linen: This type has a relatively rough texture. It is also highly durable. Textile producers often use it for making hand towels, bath towels, dish towels, etc.
  3. Loosely woven linen: This utilitarian type of linen is highly absorbent and often used in making reusable diapers, sanitary napkins, etc. But it is the least durable of all the types.
  4. Sheeting linen: This type has a soft, untextured surface, commonly used in making apparel and bedding. Its thread count is significantly higher than the other types, making it suitable for making very dense and durable fabrics.

Key differences between Linen and Cotton

Linen and cotton are materials with very similar attributes. Nevertheless, there are several key differences between these two natural fabrics. They include:

  1. Durability: Linen has less elasticity and flexibility than cotton, making it more durable. Cotton is not as rigid and doesn’t last as long as linen because the cellulose fibres in the cotton yarn are slightly shorter and wrapped looser than those in linen yarn.
  2. Softness: Linen is harder than cotton because flax fibres are rougher than cotton fibres. For instance, fresh cotton sheets are very soft and can last about five years, but linen sheets only become soft after several washes and last up to 30 years.
  3. Texture: Cotton makes smoother fabric as a result of denser weaving.
  4. Appearance. Linen pills are less than cotton, as linen fibres are stronger. They both wrinkle easily, but linen wrinkles slightly more due to their stiffness.
  5. Hypoallergenic: Both fabrics are hypoallergenic. However, cotton is slightly worse for people with allergies as the higher thread count, and dense weave are more likely to trap dust and particles.
  6. Absorbency: Linen and cotton are very absorbent materials. Water strengthens both fabrics, but cotton is slightly more absorbent.
  7. Water-wicking is the ability to absorb water or sweat from the skin and dry it quickly. Linen has natural water-wicking qualities, and cotton also wicks moisture, but not as well as linen.
  8. Breathability: Both fabrics are breathable, but cotton is slightly less breathable in some cases. Linen fibres are hollow, which allows air and water to circulate easily through the material.
  9. Warmth: Cotton does not conduct heat and serves better for warmth during cold weather.
  10. Cost: Linen fabrics are generally more expensive than cotton fabrics.
Here’s a table summarizing their differences;
PropertiesLinenCotton
DurabilityMore durableLess durable
SoftnessHarder fibreSofter fibre
TextureMakes rougher fabricMakes smoother fabric
AppearanceWrinkles slightly more than cottonWrinkles slightly less
HypoallergenicMore suitable for people with allergiesLess suitable
AbsorbencySlightly less absorbentSlightly more absorbent
Water wickingHigher water-wicking qualitiesLower water-wicking qualities
BreathabilitySlightly more breathableSlightly less breathable
WarmthLess suitable for cold weatherServes better for warmth
CostGenerally more expensiveGenerally less expensive

How are Linen fabrics made?

Linen fabric contains cellulose fibre, which is the main constituent in the raw material found in the stems of the flax plants.

The process for linen production is generally outlined below:

  1. Planting and growth: In modern-day agriculture, machines sow flax seeds. Since they do not tolerate heat, flax farmers plant flax seeds in the cooler part of the year.
  2. Harvesting: Once the flax stems turn yellow and their seeds turn brown, the plants are ready to be harvested. This is usually after about 100 days of growth. Machines are usually used for this process, but some local farmers still harvest flax by hand.
  3. Fibre Separation: The harvested flax stalks are processed through a machine that removes seeds and leaves. Then, the flax stalks go through a process called retting, where manufacturers separate the flaxes’ fibrous outer stalks from their soft, woody interior. This process is delicate and handled expertly to avoid damage to the flax fibres.
  4. Breaking: The decomposed stalks are broken up or crushed with rollers. Rotating paddles are then used to remove the outer fibres from the stalks. This process separates the unusable fibres (the outer fibres) of the flax stalks from the usable ones (inner fibres).
  5. Combing: The separated inner fibres are combed into thin strands.
  6. Spinning: The combed strands of flax fibre are connected to devices called spreaders. The resulting strings are called rovings, which are finally spun into yarns.
  7. Reeling: The manufacturers then reel the resulting yarn onto bobbins. They perform this process in wet, humid conditions to ensure that the flax yarn doesn’t fall apart. They also run the spun yarn through a hot water bath to ensure better yarn cohesion.
  8. Drying and dyeing: Finally, the flax manufacturers dry the finished yarn, apply the dye and make the necessary final treatments.

Linen fabrics and environment

The major environmental issue in linen production is the release of toxic chemicals used during the manufacturing process into surrounding ecosystems. Toxic substances, such as alkali or oxalic acid, are commonly used during the retting process of flax to obtain the inner fibre faster and more efficiently.

For environmental reasons, water retting of flax stems is now usually preferred. For linen fabric to be certified as organic today, the flax fibre must be water-retted.

In addition to the issue of releasing toxic chemicals into the ecosystem, there may also be the concern of land use for flax production. Cultivation processes may degrade the soil, which can lead to soil erosion and expansion of farmlands into neighbouring natural habitats.

Furthermore, most textile workers are usually forced to work under horrific conditions for insufficient pay. Consequently, these factory workers become unable to contribute to local economies.

Despite these troubling concerns, the fact remains that linen is one of the least environmentally damaging textiles in the industry. Unlike synthetic fabrics, natural fabrics like linen are biodegradable, which means they can be reabsorbed into the surrounding environment in a matter of years instead of centuries. Natural fibres also don’t contribute to the ongoing microfibre pollution crisis, threatening aquatic and human life. With proper land stewardship, linen can be cultivated in a way that is not environmentally harmful. Problems arise when textile manufacturers choose to use inexpensive processes that may be environmentally damaging to meet the global demand for linen products without incurring prohibitive overhead costs.

Mont Blanc, the Highest Mountain in France

December 13, 2022 by endorfeen

Mont Blanc is the pinnacle of the Alps and Western Europe, soaring to an impressive height of 4,806 metres (15,766 feet) above sea level. This majestic mountain, which marks the border between France and Italy, is the highest peak in the Alps and the tallest in Europe outside the Caucasus range. It ranks as the second most prominent peak in Europe, following Mount Elbrus, and holds the eleventh position in global prominence.

The mountain bestows its name upon the surrounding Mont Blanc massif, which extends across parts of France, Italy, and Switzerland. The summit of Mont Blanc itself is positioned at the watershed line between the Ferret and Veny valleys in Italy and the Montjoie and Arve valleys in France. This location has historically been the subject of ownership disputes between France and Italy.

Mont Blanc Massif - © Marc Kargel, Unsplash
Mont Blanc Massif – © Marc Kargel, Unsplash

Encircling Mont Blanc are three principal towns: Courmayeur in Italy’s Aosta Valley, and Saint-Gervais-les-Bains and Chamonix in France’s Haute-Savoie. Chamonix, in particular, holds historical significance as the host of the inaugural Winter Olympics. The region is a haven for outdoor enthusiasts, offering many activities ranging from hiking, climbing, and trail running to winter sports such as skiing and snowboarding. The Goûter Route, acclaimed as the most favoured path to the summit, typically requires a two-day journey.

Mont Blanc is not only a natural marvel but also a hub of human achievement and connectivity. The Mont Blanc Tunnel, spanning 11.6 km (7+1⁄4 mi), was constructed between 1957 and 1965 beneath the mountain, serving as a vital transalpine transport corridor. Additionally, a cable car facilitates an aerial passage from Courmayeur to Chamonix via the Col du Géant, bridging the majestic mountain range and offering unparalleled views of this alpine wonder.

Mont Blanc’s Climate: A Delicate Balance of Cold, Wind, and Variation in Precipitation

Nestled at the watershed between the Rhône and Po rivers, the Mont Blanc massif straddles the climatic divide between the northern and western Alps and the southern Alps. This unique positioning contributes to a climate that shares similarities with the northern side of the Swiss Alps, especially evident in the Mer de Glace area.

The climate of Mont Blanc is classified as cold and temperate (Köppen Cfb), a characteristic profoundly shaped by the massif’s elevation. As the highest point in the Alps, Mont Blanc and its surrounding peaks have the unique ability to generate their own weather systems. With increasing altitude, temperatures plummet, leading to a permanent ice cap at the summit, where temperatures hover around −20 °C (−4 °F). This elevation also subjects the summit to vigorous winds and rapid shifts in weather, making the area predominantly glaciated or snow-covered, enduring the brunt of icy conditions.

Precipitation patterns vary significantly with altitude across the Mont Blanc massif. The village of Chamonix, situated below Mont Blanc at an elevation of 1,030 metres (3,380 feet), receives approximately 1,020 mm (40 inches) of rainfall annually. In contrast, the Col du Midi, at an altitude of 3,500 metres (11,500 feet), experiences a much higher level of precipitation, with totals reaching 3,100 mm (122 inches). Interestingly, precipitation decreases near the summit, at around 4,300 metres (14,100 feet), where only about 1,100 mm (43 inches) is recorded, underscoring the complex interplay of altitude and moisture levels within the Mont Blanc region.

Disputed Summits: The Franco-Italian Controversy over Mont Blanc

The delineation of the border between Italy and France along the Mont Blanc massif has been a subject of contention for centuries, with its exact positioning near the summits of Mont Blanc and the Dôme du Goûter remaining disputed. Italian authorities argue that the border should follow the main Alpine watershed, which would divide the summits between the two countries. Conversely, French authorities maintain that the border circumvents these summits, allocating them entirely to France. This disagreement encompasses approximately 65 hectares on Mont Blanc and 10 hectares on Dôme du Goûter.

Mont-Blanc - © Openstreetmap, Wiki Commons
Mont-Blanc – © Openstreetmap, Wiki Commons

Historically, the entire region of Mont Blanc was part of the Duchy of Savoy until the French Revolution, when changes in sovereignty began to reshape the area’s political landscape. Following the acquisition of the Kingdom of Sardinia by Duke Victor Amadeus II in 1723, which later played a significant role in Italian unification, the French Revolutionary Army seized Savoy in 1792, integrating it into France. The 1796 treaty forced Victor Amadeus III to relinquish Savoy and Nice to France, establishing the border based on the highest points along the Piedmont side, although lower mountains obstructed visibility from Chamonix and Courmayeur.

The Congress of Vienna post-Napoleonic Wars restored the traditional territories of Savoy, Nice, and Piedmont to the King of Sardinia, nullifying the 1796 Treaty of Paris. The annexation of Savoy to France was finalized in a legal act signed in 1860, with a subsequent demarcation agreement in 1861 marking the border along the watershed, placing Mont Blanc on the Franco-Italian boundary for the first time.

Despite these historical agreements, discrepancies arose with the publication of a French topographic map in the late 19th century by Captain JJ Mieulet, which deviated from the agreed watershed line, fuelling the ongoing dispute. Modern Swiss mapping acknowledges this contested territory, offering two interpretations of the border that either divide the summits between France and Italy or place them solely within French territory. NATO maps, drawing on data from the Italian Istituto Geografico Militare and reflecting treaties still in force, further illustrate the complexity of this territorial dispute.

How High is Mont-Blanc?

The elevation of Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak, is a subject of continuous study due to its thick, ever-changing dome of ice and snow. This variability means that while exact and permanent measurements of the summit’s height are challenging to ascertain, precise readings have been obtained at specific intervals. Historically, the mountain’s elevation was long held to be 4,807 metres (15,771 feet), until advancements in GPS technology in 2002 enabled a more accurate measurement of 4,807.40 metres (15,772 feet 4 inches).

The intense heatwave of 2003 prompted a comprehensive re-measurement by a diverse team, including glaciologist Luc Moreau, expert surveyors, mountain guides, and students. This effort revealed the summit had risen to 4,808.45 metres (15,775 feet 9 inches), showing a notable shift in its position. Following this, over 500 points were surveyed to understand the impact of climate change on the mountain’s physical stature, establishing a protocol for biennial measurements.

Subsequent assessments have revealed fluctuations in the summit’s height, with a notable measurement in 2005 indicating an increase to 4,808.75 metres (15,776 feet 9 inches) and later measurements in 2013 recording a peak at 4,810.02 metres (15,781 feet). These ongoing evaluations underscore the dynamic nature of Mont Blanc, directly linking its physical changes to broader environmental trends.

Moreover, the rock summit, distinct from the ice-covered peak, has been identified at 4,792 metres (15,722 feet), illustrating the complex topography of the mountain. From its summit, on a clear day, one can glimpse across vast distances, encompassing the Jura, the Vosges, the Black Forest, and the Massif Central, alongside the principal summits of the Alps, offering a panoramic view that spans the heart of Europe.

Scaling Mont Blanc: Challenges, Routes, and Preparation for Ascent

Essential Preparation for Climbing Mont Blanc: Training, Acclimatisation, and Safety

Annually, Mont Blanc attracts close to 20,000 mountaineering enthusiasts, with some days seeing as many as 500 climbers. The Goûter Route, known for its length but relative ease for those who are well-trained and acclimatised to high altitudes, is the most frequented pathway to the summit.

The realm of mountaineering, inherently remote and fraught with objective dangers, demands a profound understanding of high mountain environments alongside suitable physical and material preparation. Notably, the Goûter Route includes perilous segments such as the Goûter Corridor, notorious for rockfalls. The high altitude increases the risk of acute mountain sickness, which can be fatal, underscoring the importance of prior acclimatisation.

Mont Blanc’s popularity contributes to a higher incident rate compared to other alpine summits, with annual fatalities on the Goûter Route averaging between five and seven. In 2006 alone, the High Mountain Gendarmerie Platoon (PGHM) carried out 120 rescue operations, 80% of which were due to exhaustion from poor physical preparation or lack of acclimatisation; 30% of climbers sustained injuries such as frostbite or crampon wounds or suffered from altitude-related illnesses upon their descent. Despite a low success rate of 33% without a guide (improving to 50% with professional guidance), between 2,000 and 3,000 climbers reach the summit each year.

In response to the high failure rates, some agencies now offer beginners a few days of mountaineering courses, including an introduction to the sport, a period for altitude acclimatisation, and an ascent of Mont Blanc under the guidance of a professional mountain guide. This approach, marking a departure from traditional mountaineering philosophies that catered to experienced climbers familiar with alpinism techniques, is yet to confirm its effectiveness. It challenges the conventional view of mountaineering as a pursuit of experienced climbers, suggesting instead a trend towards trophy hunting rather than a rite of passage.

Key Routes to the Summit: Navigating Mont Blanc’s Climbing Paths

Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak, offers several classic climbing routes, each presenting its unique challenges and breathtaking scenery. The most traversed path, the Goûter Route, known for its accessibility via the Tramway du Mont-Blanc from Saint-Gervais-les-Bains, begins with an ascent towards the Refuge de Tête Rousse. This route is notorious for the perilous Goûter Corridor, where climbers face the risk of frequent rockfalls. The journey continues past the Vallot emergency cabin to the Dôme du Goûter, concluding at the summit along the arête des Bosses.

Another esteemed route is La Voie des 3 Monts, starting from Chamonix. This path involves a cable car ride to the Col du Midi, an overnight stay at the Cosmiques Hut, and a challenging climb over Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit before the final ascent. This route is known for its technical difficulty and the additional challenge of conquering two other peaks en route to Mont Blanc’s summit.

Mont-Blanc - © Sarah Labbat, Pixabay
Mont-Blanc – © Sarah Labbat, Pixabay

For those seeking a historical approach, the Grands Mulets Hut serves as a base for the traditional French route, often chosen for winter ski ascents or summer descents to Chamonix. Conversely, the Italian side offers La route des Aiguilles Grises, beginning with a crossing of the Miage Glacier and a night at the Gonella refuge, followed by an ascent through the Col des Aiguilles Grises and the Dôme du Goûter.

Adventurers might opt for the Miage – Bionnassay – Mont Blanc crossing, a three-day expedition that is as enchanting as it is demanding, starting from Contamines-Montjoie and involving a traverse of ice and snow ridges at high altitudes.

Despite appearing straightforward, these routes demand significant physical preparation, acclimatisation to high altitudes, and mastery of mountaineering skills. The risks are real, as evidenced by the annual fatalities and the need for rescue missions, highlighting the importance of proper equipment, experience, or the guidance of a professional mountain guide. The challenge of Mont Blanc is not only in reaching its summit but also in safely navigating the mountain’s unpredictable conditions and respecting the rigorous demands of high-altitude climbing.

Mont Blanc’s Alpinism Legacy: From Early Expeditions to Modern Achievements

Mont Blanc: From Myth to Enlightenment

During the 17th century, amidst the Little Ice Age, processions and exorcisms were organized in an attempt to halt the advance of the Mer de Glace glacier, which was perilously encroaching upon Chamonix. Until the 18th century, valley inhabitants viewed the Mont Blanc massif with trepidation; its peaks were ventured upon only by a few chamois hunters and crystal seekers.

Despite this, the massif sparked the curiosity of the Genevan bourgeoisie, who, alongside English visitors, ventured to the Môle—a prominent viewpoint to the southeast of the city—to observe Mont Blanc more closely. However, the lack of maps detailing the internal layout of this segment of the Alps led to disorientation. A line drawn from Geneva, passing over the summit of the Môle towards the Rhône Valley, was supposed to locate Mont Blanc somewhere along its extension but invariably placed it north of the Chamonix Valley, contrary to its actual southern position. This misplacement persisted for half a century, a confusion that Charles Henri Durier attributed to the visibility of Mont Blanc from Geneva, which becomes obscured as one approaches the Alps. The first summits encountered upon departing from Bonneville are not Mont Blanc but the peaks of Morcle and Midi, especially the Buet, which lies north of Chamonix in the direction of Geneva towards the Môle and was mistakenly identified as the high mountain observed from afar. Consequently, the people of Geneva dubbed Mont Blanc “the cursed mountain,” a moniker that stuck due to geographic misunderstanding perpetuated by cartographers.

Durier notes that Mont Blanc was identified too late for myths or poetic symbolism to attach to it, marking its entry into an era of scientific rationalism directly. This shift reflects a transformation in the perception of Mont Blanc from a source of superstitious dread to an object of scientific interest and exploration.

Early Scientific Endeavours and Ascension Attempts on Mont Blanc

In the late 17th century, Jean-Christophe and Nicolas Fatio de Duillier were pioneers in estimating Mont Blanc’s height at 4,728 meters above the Mediterranean Sea, marking an early intersection of scientific inquiry and mountaineering. By 1760, the Swiss naturalist Horace Bénédict de Saussure initiated a series of excursions to Chamonix, driven by a fascination with Mont Blanc and determined to conquer its summit. Saussure’s ventures, especially alongside the Courmayeur guide Jean-Laurent Jordaney, known for his patience, laid foundational work in alpine exploration. Their efforts included attempts to chart a route through the Miage Glacier and Mont Crammont, aiming to unlock the secrets of the Alpine massif.

Horace-Bénédict de Saussure - © Jens Juel, Public domain, Wiki Commons
Horace-Bénédict de Saussure – © Jens Juel, Public domain, Wiki Commons

Further advancements came when George Shuckburgh-Evelyn, a newly minted member of the Royal Society, joined Saussure in 1775 to refine Mont Blanc’s altitude measurements using triangulation and barometric pressure from the Môle, leading to a revised elevation of 4,787 meters. These findings, adjusted in 1840 by engineer geographers to 4,806.5 meters, underscored the evolving precision in understanding Mont Blanc’s imposing stature.

Saussure’s promise of a reward for the first successful ascent in 1760 was a catalyst for serious attempts to scale Mont Blanc. Initial efforts by valley guides in 1775 via the Grands Mulets route were thwarted by harsh weather and exhaustion. Recommendations for subsequent expeditions included practical advice to mitigate the sun’s glare, reflecting the pragmatic challenges faced by early climbers. Marc-Théodore Bourrit’s engagement of three guides and Michel Paccard in 1783 further demonstrated the perilous nature of these early ascensions, often hampered by adverse conditions.

A significant attempt in 1784 by Paccard and another guide to ascend via the Aiguille du Goûter showcased the daunting obstacles climbers faced, from difficult terrains to unexpected snow accumulation. This period of exploration was marked by trial and error, with various expeditions, including a notable one by Saussure, Bourrit, and their companions in 1785, attempting to navigate through snow-laden routes without success.

In a pivotal moment in June 1786, five Chamonix guides were divided into two groups to explore the most feasible approach to the Dôme du Goûter, an effort that underscored the collaborative spirit and determination of these early mountaineers. Despite facing insurmountable odds and the decision to retreat, Jacques Balmat’s unexpected overnight stay on the mountain became a testament to the resilience and adventurous spirit of those drawn to Mont Blanc. His safe return the following day not only surprised the valley’s inhabitants but also symbolized the enduring allure and formidable challenge posed by Europe’s highest peak.

Groundbreaking Ascents of Mont Blanc: Pioneers and Milestones

On the 7th of August, 1786, Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard embarked on a covert journey from Les Bossons, camping atop the mountain of La Côte. They navigated the Grands Mulets route the following day, reaching the Grand Plateau by mid-afternoon. Their ascent took them eastward, over steep slopes above the Rochers Rouges Supérieurs, making them visible from the valley through the telescope of Baron Adolph Traugott von Gersdorf. By late afternoon, they had passed the Petits Rouges and the Petits Mulets, arriving at the summit at 6:23 pm, where they spent thirty-three minutes before beginning their descent. That night, they rested on the glacier, continuing their journey back to the village the next morning. Paccard, suffering from snow blindness, relied on Balmat’s assistance for the descent. Upon returning, Balmat was met with the sorrowful news of his daughter’s death, coinciding with the day they reached the summit. This monumental ascent is considered the dawn of modern alpinism.

Jacques Balmat
Jacques Balmat

Almost a year later, Horace Bénédict de Saussure, accompanied by nineteen individuals, including Balmat, succeeded in reaching the summit on the 3rd of August, 1787. Saussure’s expedition marked the first scientific measurement of Mont Blanc’s altitude directly from its summit, estimating it to be 4,775 meters after averaging three prior measurements.

Subsequent measurements in the 1820s by Plana and Carlini, and later corrections by engineer geographers, refined Mont Blanc’s altitude to 4,811.6 meters. These endeavours culminated with Commander Filhon’s calculation of 4,810.9 meters, leveraging earlier triangulation efforts.

Marie Paradis became the first woman to summit Mont Blanc on the 14th of July, 1808, a feat achieved under challenging conditions and with considerable assistance from her guides. Henriette d’Angeville followed as the second woman to reach the summit on her own accord on the 4th of September, 1838, dressed in a simple gown.

Until 1827, climbers predominantly followed the route established by Balmat and Paccard, from the Grand Plateau to the summit via the northern face above the Rochers Rouges. The Corridor route to the east later became a preferred path, connecting with the Trois Monts route at the Mur de la Côte. The Arête des Bosses, now the standard route to the summit, was not traversed until 1861, highlighting the evolution of mountaineering routes on Mont Blanc.

Tragedy and Triumph: The Formation of Mont Blanc’s Guide Companies

The first fatal accident on Mont Blanc occurred during its tenth ascent in 1820, an expedition later chronicled by Alexandre Dumas through the account of Marie Coutet, a guide who survived the ordeal. The expedition, comprising British Colonel Joseph Anderson and Dr. Joseph Hamel, a meteorologist for the Russian Emperor, faced adverse weather conditions. Despite this, the clients insisted on reaching the summit, a decision that led the thirteen guides to proceed. Their ascent, hindered by deep, fresh snow, ended tragically when an avalanche was triggered, sweeping away the leading three guides into a crevasse 200 meters below, where they perished. Their remains were discovered in 1861 at the base of the Bossons Glacier and were remarkably preserved.

The aftermath of this tragedy galvanized the mountain guides into unity. On May 9, 1823, a decree from the Chamber of Deputies of Turin, sanctioned by Charles-Félix of Savoy, officially established the Compagnie des Guides de Chamonix. The decree outlined a structured classification for guides: the first class consisted of experienced guides with the necessary skills for leading expeditions, the second class included less experienced guides primarily serving as porters, and a third category was designated for apprentice guides. By 2018, the company had grown to include over 220 professional members, encompassing both guides and medium mountain leaders.

Following in Chamonix’s footsteps, the Société des Guides de Courmayeur was established in 1850, becoming the first of its kind in Italy and the second worldwide after Chamonix. Its founding leader, Jean-Laurent Jordaney from Pré-Saint-Didier, had previously accompanied Horace Bénédict de Saussure on explorations of the Miage Glacier and Mont Crammont, as well as British mountaineer Thomas Ford Hill to the Giant’s Col in 1786. This development marked a significant milestone in the professionalization of mountain guiding, laying the groundwork for safer and more organized ascents of Mont Blanc.

Mont Blanc Milestones: Pioneering Ascents and Aviation Firsts

On July 15, 1865, an expedition led by George Spencer Mathews, Adolphus Warburton Moore, Horace Walker, Franck Walker, Melchior Anderegg, and Jakob Anderegg marked the first ascent of Mont Blanc via the Brenva Spur, setting a precedent for future climbers. This feat was followed by Isabella Straton’s pioneering winter ascent on January 31, 1876, with guides Jean Charlet-Straton, Sylvain Couttet, and porter Michel Balmat, further demonstrating the mountain’s year-round allure.

In 1892, Laurent Croux, Émile Rey, and Paul Güssfeldt accomplished a traverse of Mont Blanc, also via the Brenva Spur, showcasing the evolving ambition and skill of mountaineers. Aviation history on the massif was made on February 11, 1914, when Agénor Parmelin became the first to fly over, maintaining an altitude of 5,540 meters for fifteen minutes.

The spirit of exploration continued with the first complete ascent of the Innominata ridge by Stephen Lewis Courtauld and Edmund Gifford Oliver, along with guides Henri and Adolphe Rey and Alfred Aufdenblatten on August 19 and 20, 1919. Marguette Bouvier, in February 1929, became the first woman to ski down Mont Blanc, albeit partially, under severe weather conditions, guided by Armand Charlet. The first winter climb of the Major route was achieved by Arturo Ottoz and Toni Gobbi on March 23, 1953.

A significant aerial achievement was recorded on June 23, 1960, when aviator Henri Giraud landed on Mont Blanc’s summit on a mere 30-meter-long “runway.” This feat was echoed on July 1, 1986, by Dominique Jacquet and Jean-Pascal Oron, who parachuted onto the summit after being dropped from 6,100 meters, setting a world record. On August 13, 2003, seven French paragliders landed on the summit, taking advantage of exceptional thermal ascents caused by a heatwave, starting from various points, including Planpraz, Rochebrune at Megève, and Samoëns.

Between 1986 and 1988, a series of speed records were established, with Laurent Smagghe setting an impressive round-trip record from Chamonix to the summit and back. Kilian Jornet further pushed the boundaries on July 11, 2013, with a record ascent and descent time, highlighting the evolution of endurance and speed in mountaineering. Manuel Merillas, on August 12, 2021, achieved a remarkable round-trip from Courmayeur in 6 hours, 35 minutes and 32 seconds, underscoring the continued passion and pursuit of pushing limits on Mont Blanc.

Scientific Pursuits and Challenges on Mont Blanc: From Observatories to Tunnels and Air Disasters

Joseph Vallot: Pioneering Scientific Research at Mont Blanc’s Summit

At the dawn of the 19th century, Joseph Vallot embarked on pioneering scientific exploration at the summit of Mont Blanc. As a botanist, meteorologist, and glaciologist, Vallot sought to conduct comprehensive studies on meteorology, snow accumulation at high altitudes, and the physiology of mountain sickness. To facilitate extended research periods near the summit, he financed the construction of a wooden observatory, one of the first of its kind dedicated to such studies on Mont Blanc. However, Vallot quickly realized that the scientific work was incompatible with the influx of climbers, prompting the construction of the nearby Vallot Refuge for their shelter.

Joseph Vallot

With the assistance of his cousin, engineer Henri Vallot, they initiated the meticulous task of mapping the Mont Blanc massif at a 1:20,000 scale from 1892. This ambitious project built upon earlier altitudinal measurements by figures such as James David Forbes, Alphonse Favre, and Eugène Viollet-le-Duc. A significant refinement in Mont Blanc’s altitude to 4,807.20 meters was achieved through triangulation by Henri and Joseph Vallot between 1892 and 1894. The completion of this detailed cartography, a feat achieved with relatively rudimentary means of the time, was finalized posthumously by Charles Vallot, Henri’s son, who also introduced the esteemed Vallot Guide collection to the mountaineering community.

Before his death, Joseph Vallot bequeathed the observatory to A. Dina, who initiated an astronomical observatory project. It was later inherited by the French state and placed under the custodianship of the Paris Observatory. By 1973, the management of both Chamonix observatories was transferred to the CNRS, with the high-altitude observatory subsequently assigned to the Laboratory of Geophysics and Environmental Glaciology (LGGE). Meanwhile, the Chamonix observatory served as a base camp for CNRS researchers.

The current Vallot Refuge, maintained by the French Alpine Club, serves as a survival shelter for climbers in adverse weather. The Vallot Observatory, located slightly lower, is no longer a refuge but is regularly used by scientists from the Institute of Environmental Geosciences for various high-altitude studies, including atmospheric aerosol fallout, ice core drilling at the Col du Dôme, and physiological research.

In March 2013, the observatory was briefly put up for sale before the transaction was cancelled in August 2013 by the Budget Minister, heeding calls from the Alpine Ecosystems Research Centre (CREA) and other stakeholders to preserve its scientific use as stipulated by Joseph Vallot. A subsequent tender considered this scientific servitude, leading to a proposal from the Chamonix municipality and CREA to purchase and dedicate the site to scientific pursuits. In 2016, the Chamonix municipality acquired the observatory, ensuring its continuation as a centre for scientific research on Mont Blanc.

The Quest for a Summit Observatory: The Janssen Observatory Project on Mont Blanc

In the late 19th century, the ambition to establish a scientific presence at the very summit of Mont Blanc led to a remarkable engineering challenge. Pierre Janssen, a distinguished astronomer and director of the Meudon Astrophysical Observatory, envisioned constructing an observatory on the peak to advance astronomical research. In a bold move, Gustave Eiffel, renowned for his engineering prowess, agreed to undertake this project on the condition of finding a rock foundation within 12 meters below the ice cap.

In pursuit of this foundation, Swiss surveyor Imfeld conducted extensive explorations in 1891, drilling two horizontal tunnels, each 23 meters long beneath the summit’s ice, only to conclude that solid ground was elusive. This setback led to the abandonment of Eiffel’s involvement in the project.

Nonetheless, determination prevailed, and by 1893, an observatory had been erected at the pinnacle of Mont Blanc. This period coincided with a severe cold wave, during which the observatory registered a record-breaking low temperature of -43°C, the coldest ever documented on the mountain.

The observatory’s survival against the harsh mountainous environment was ingeniously supported by levers anchored in the ice, which temporarily maintained the structure’s stability. However, by 1906, significant leaning of the building prompted corrective measures through the adjustment of the levers. Despite these efforts, a crevasse began to form beneath the observatory a few years later, leading to its eventual abandonment. The structure’s demise followed shortly after Janssen’s death, with only the tower being salvaged at the last moment. This episode in Mont Blanc’s history reflects the intersection of human ambition with the formidable challenges posed by nature, underscoring the mountain’s enduring allure for scientific exploration and its harsh realities.

Tragic Skies: Fatal Air Disasters on Mont Blanc

Mont Blanc, Europe’s highest peak, has been the tragic site of two devastating air crashes, marking sombre moments in aviation history. In 1950, Air India Flight 245 crashed into the mountain while on its approach to Geneva Airport, resulting in the loss of all 48 people on board.

This catastrophe was followed by another in 1966 when Air India Flight 101, also en route to Geneva, met a similar fate due to a miscalculated descent by the pilots, leading to the deaths of 117 passengers and crew. Among the victims of the latter was Homi J. Bhabha, a prominent nuclear scientist regarded as the architect of India’s nuclear programme. These tragic incidents underscore the inherent dangers of mountainous terrain and serve as a sombre reminder of the perils faced in the early days of commercial aviation.

Mont Blanc Tunnel: Engineering Triumph and Tragedy

The construction of the Mont Blanc tunnel, initiated in 1946, represented a monumental feat of engineering, creating a vital link through the mountain between Chamonix, France, and Courmayeur, Italy. Upon its opening in 1965, the tunnel, stretching 11,611 meters (7.215 miles), became a crucial transalpine route, facilitating vehicle traffic flow between the two nations.

However, the tunnel’s history was marred by tragedy in 1999 when a transport truck ignited a fire that led to the deaths of 39 individuals. This catastrophic event prompted a comprehensive overhaul of the tunnel’s safety protocols. The renovation introduced advanced computerized detection systems, additional security bays, and an escape shaft parallel to the main tunnel, equipped with a dedicated fire station strategically placed at its midpoint. To ensure a clean air supply, ventilation systems were installed in the escape shafts, and those in the security bays were granted live video communication with the control centre, significantly enhancing the capacity for emergency response.

In response to the disaster, new safety measures were implemented, including establishing remote cargo safety inspection sites at Aosta in Italy and Passy-Le Fayet in France. These sites serve a dual purpose: inspecting all trucks before tunnel entry and managing commercial traffic during peak periods, thereby improving overall safety and efficiency. Following these extensive upgrades, the Mont Blanc tunnel was reopened to the public three years after the fire, marking a new chapter in its storied existence as a symbol of resilience and technological advancement in the face of adversity.

George Mallory: The First Man To Summit Everest?

December 8, 2022 by Sergei Poljak

George Mallory is a household name in the climbing community for his early, harrowing expeditions on Mount Everest and the lingering possibility that he had summited the mountain shortly before his death on the 1924 attempt. 

The ultimate success of that ill-fated summit attempt is doubtful. Still, there is no uncertainty regarding Mallory’s strong character, work ethic, patriotic contributions, and devotion to his friends and family. In this article, we will dive into George Mallory’s life and fate on the upper reaches of Everest. 

Who was George Mallory?

George Mallory was a British climber born in 1886 in the village of Mobberly, Cheshire. An intelligent and ambitious young man, he attended Winchester College on a mathematics scholarship at the age of 13. 

At Winchester, Mallory fell under the tutelage of climber Graham Irving. Irving, who died in 1969, later stated, “It was just chance that I took out to the Alps in 1904 a boy destined to become so famous on Everest.” Mallory matriculated to Cambridge in 1905, rowing for the University team and making regular trips to the Alps with Irving and others. 

After graduating from Cambridge, Mallory began lecturing at the independent day school of Charterhouse, in Surrey. He also continued to progress as a climber, establishing many new routes. In 1913, he established a new route on Pillar Rock in the UK’s Lake District. Now known simply as Mallory’s Route, this 5.9 was likely one of the hardest climbs in the UK – and the world – for several years. 

In 1914, Mallory married Ruth Turner, with whom he eventually had three children. Shortly thereafter, he left to serve as a lieutenant in the First World War, where he participated in several bloody battles including the Somme offensive. 

Mallory escaped death and returned to lecture at Charterhouse as before. However, he resigned in 1921 to join in the first of three British expeditions to Mount Everest.

Mallory is at the front left. Source: Brittanica

George Mallory’s 1921 and 1922 Everest Expeditions

The British expedition in 1921 was led by Colonel Charles Howard-Bury, with celebrated climber Harold Raeburn as lead mountaineer. More a reconnaissance mission than a true summit push, they were the first Westerners to visit the Western Cirque below the Lhotse Face. 

Raeburn was nearly 60 years old by this point and was in poor health (he would die just a few years later). Mallory had taken over duties as lead climber, and on September 23rd, the team pushed up to 23,000 feet and spied a viable route to the summit along the Northeast Ridge. The expedition also produced many of the first maps of the Everest region, including the course of the Rongbuk Glacier. 

In 1922, Mallory again set out for Everest, this time under the charge of Brigadier General Charles Bruce with Edward Strutt as the climbing leader. The team brought bottled oxygen with them and decided to attempt the summit. An initial attempt without oxygen brought Mallory and two others to a record-setting 26,980 feet on the ridge. A second attempt, this time with oxygen, saw two members of the team reach 27,300 feet before turning back. 

The team became increasingly certain they could make the summit. Shortly after, Mallory set out for a third attempt but was soon forced to retreat due to the sudden (but expected) arrival of monsoon season. Disaster struck as Mallory led the team of climbers down a steep slope in fresh, waist-deep snow – the group triggered an avalanche that killed seven Sherpas. The tragedy effectively terminated the expedition. Some members of his team criticized Mallory for his decision-making in the days afterwards. Nevertheless, he remained a respected member of the British mountaineering elite and would go on to make one last attempt at Everest. 

The 1924 Expedition And George Mallory’s Death

After his unsuccessful bids for the summit in 1922, Mallory embarked on a tour of the U.S., where he proclaimed that the next British expedition would reach the summit. Mallory believed his age – he was 37 – meant that this would be his last attempt. 

During their first attempt, high winds and extreme cold buffeted the team. They did not advance beyond Camp V. However, a push by Edward Norton and Howard Somervell saw Norton reach 28,126 feet before retreating from exhaustion. This attempt marked a new altitude record less than 1000 feet from the summit. 

The last picture of Mallory and Irvine. Source: Secrets of the Ice

Ill-fated Summit attempt

The monsoon season was fast approaching, and Mallory knew he had but one remaining chance to achieve his dream. Early on June 8th, George Mallory and partner Andrew “Sandy” Irving set off from Camp IV. Irving, an Oxford graduate and skilled engineer, armed the pair with a custom oxygen apparatus. The team made swift progress up the ridge. Modern calculations estimate that they may have climbed as much as 850 feet/hour during this time. 

In the early afternoon of June 8th, teammate and support member Noel Odell spotted the pair climbing over either the first, second, or third step (exactly which of the three remains a mystery) and making fast progress toward the summit:

“At 12.50, just after I had emerged from a state of jubilation at finding the first definite fossils on Everest, there was a sudden clearing of the atmosphere, and the entire summit ridge and final peak of Everest were unveiled. My eyes became fixed on one tiny black spot silhouetted on a small snow-crest beneath a rock step in the ridge; the black spot moved. Another black spot became apparent and moved up the snow to join the other on the crest. The first then approached the great rock step and shortly emerged at the top; the second did likewise. Then the whole fascinating vision vanished, enveloped in cloud once more.” 

– Noel Odell

It was an inspiring moment, but it was ultimately the last time either man would be seen alive. 

George Mallory’s body was found by Conrad Anker in 1999. Source: Secrets of the Ice

Speculation Surrounding the First Ascent Of Everest

Whether Mallory, Irving, or both men made it to the summit has been subject to intense speculation. Many mountaineers have put in their two cents on what happened, but the best testimony on the subject is probably from Conrad Anker, who led a 1999 expedition to recover Mallory’s body. 

Anker believes that it is possible, but improbable, that either man reached the summit before their deaths. The climbing over the second step (later dubbed The Hilary Step) is hard. Climbers say it goes free at about 5.9, which is the limit of Mallory’s climbing at sea level without the extreme conditions and lack of oxygen on the summit pyramid of Everest. For the timetables to make sense, the men would have to have been moving at a very high speed to the summit and back down. No traces of the team were ever found on or near the summit. 

Here is a more in-depth discussion of all the evidence available.

Perhaps the whole discussion is fundamentally flawed; Mallory’s son John, who was three years old at the time of his father’s death, has stated, “To me, the only way you achieve a summit is to come back alive. The job is only half done if you don’t get down again.”

George Mallory’s Contribution To Mountaineering

When George Mallory was asked his reason for wanting to climb Everest, he is quoted as answering, “Because it’s there.” This perspective came to dominate the sport of mountaineering. 

A list of Mallory’s known accomplishments in climbing includes:

  • “Great Gully” (5.6), Cwm Eigeau, Wales.
  • “Amphitheatre Buttress” (5.4), Cwm Eigiau, Wales.
  • Mont Blanc.
  • Mont Maudit. Third ascent via Frontier Ridge.
  • “Adam Rib” (5.6) Craig Cwm Du, Wales. First ascent.
  • “Mallory’s Route” (5.9), Pillar Rock, Lake District. First ascent.
  • 1921 Everest Expedition. 
  • 1922 Everest Expedition. Summit Attempt.
  • 1924 Everest Expedition. Summit Attempt. 

Above all, Mallory embodied the archetype of a high-altitude climber. Built like a Greek Titan, he was able to move fluidly and quickly in the mountains, and inspire other climbers in his comfort amidst the vertical world.  

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